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post #1 of 47 Old 08-12-2019, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Atlmax - Theater Build

Hello Everyone! First of all, I want to thank all of you for inspiring me and giving me the motivation to start on my theater build. I have always thought about having a room where I can sit back watch football games and enjoy movies with the family. I am located in suburbs of Atlanta, Georgia in case any of are nearby want to lend a helping hand.

So far, I have selected the room and sketched the measurements (Pic attached). Some general things to note:

1) Room has been selected and not much flexibility here given other needs of the house.

2) In terms of soundproofing, since the room has three doors + two windows, not sure how much benefit I will see from soundproofing. Again, happy to hear any ideas that maybe helpful.

3) To manage cost, I will try to do as much work as my skill allows. I do enjoy learning and building in my free time. I will leverage help as I run into limitations.

4) In terms of sound, just want to avoid whisper / explosion effect, which currently exist with my sound system. Obviously, I am open to purchasing new equipment but not sure of the budget. My guess is that it will be $1-1.5K. More to come on this as we get down the road.

5) So, where do I need help?
a) How should I position things given space available?
b) Should I build a sub-wall to separate out exit door and two windows?
c) Any other thoughts you may have?

I like the space OriginalWhitey built out and look to do something very similar.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ggestions.html

Please let me know if any questions. Look forward to sharing my build and the experience.

[IMG]https://photos.app.*******/5ppW8LMvjdbLeM986[/IMG]
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post #2 of 47 Old 08-12-2019, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Guys, I am unsure how to link pictures. I tried with Google photos but didn't work. I am attaching the pics of the room. I took out the wall that separated the two rooms. I ordered some tools and most of them are here. I should be able to continue work this weekend.
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post #3 of 47 Old 08-12-2019, 04:24 PM
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This is a tough space to work with, I'm assuming you want the screen in front of the window, but you are pinched for space by the door to the outside, on the other end where does that door lead? How many seats did you want in this space?




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post #4 of 47 Old 08-12-2019, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
Should I build a sub-wall to separate out exit door and two windows?
The exit door and window directly opposite seem to be placed symmetrically: i.e., each is 39.5" and placed 10" from the wall with the double windows. So you can build a false wall 49.5" into the room, but that will cut off the exit door. Or you can build a false wall that ends 10" into the room, leaving access to the exit door and window directly opposite. Placing speakers L/R speakers behind or in front of the false wall might be tricky since the exit door opens inwards and could bang into the right front speaker.

The other option is to rotate the set-up 90 degrees, so that the theatre is wider than longer. This will allow access to all doors and windows (you'll have to cover them with light blocking curtains) as well as having easier traffic flow (no squeezing around seating in a 13' wide room). Are you planning on doing a projector/screen set-up or using a TV? What equipment do you currently have?
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post #5 of 47 Old 08-12-2019, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
The other option is to rotate the set-up 90 degrees, so that the theatre is wider than longer. This will allow access to all doors and windows (you'll have to cover them with light blocking curtains) as well as having easier traffic flow (no squeezing around seating in a 13' wide room).
I think this is the ticket right here. With a projector probably would have to go short throw but I think the ergonomics of the room would be better.
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post #6 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
This is a tough space to work with, I'm assuming you want the screen in front of the window, but you are pinched for space by the door to the outside, on the other end where does that door lead? How many seats did you want in this space?


Jeff, Thanks for your reply and adding the room sketch so visible in the thread. I have added a pic in my original msg that shows view from exit door. The door you see in that pic leads to the gym in the house. A few contractors who came to the house mentioned gym space to be perfect for theater setup (no windows, spacious, etc.), but definitely do not want to mess with that area. Currently, everyone in the family uses the gym and enjoys it very much. Now, here are few things I want to add that I should have mentioned in the original thread.

1) I have three exit doors in the basement. I am not worried if I block one out in this room. Now, what worries me is the space cut. I would lose roughly 4.5 Ft with a sub wall. Room goes to 22.4' x 13'.

2) In terms of seats, I was thinking two sets of three (6 seats).

3) I thought about turning 90 degrees but definitely not a personal preference.

4) I thought about moving the gym entrance door to the wall that has the exit door. Two issues: a) I would be messing with load bearing wall and do not feel comfortable. b) Entry door is right against the wall with gym door currently. I wouldn't be able to put any equipment behind wall.

5) Another option was to drywall the windows from inside. One issue: a) I still have the exit door close to the wall and wouldn't be able to put any equipment behind the wall.


Atlmax

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post #7 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
The exit door and window directly opposite seem to be placed symmetrically: i.e., each is 39.5" and placed 10" from the wall with the double windows. So you can build a false wall 49.5" into the room, but that will cut off the exit door. Or you can build a false wall that ends 10" into the room, leaving access to the exit door and window directly opposite. Placing speakers L/R speakers behind or in front of the false wall might be tricky since the exit door opens inwards and could bang into the right front speaker.

The other option is to rotate the set-up 90 degrees, so that the theatre is wider than longer. This will allow access to all doors and windows (you'll have to cover them with light blocking curtains) as well as having easier traffic flow (no squeezing around seating in a 13' wide room). Are you planning on doing a projector/screen set-up or using a TV? What equipment do you currently have?
sdurani, I was leaning towards sub wall 49.5" away (drywall only the side inside the theater). I didn't think wall 10" out would be an option b/c limits behind screen option (9" + space behind current wall) and still leaves window exposed. I am not worried about cutting off exit door as I have others in the basement. I read there are AT screens to help with speakers behind screen.
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post #8 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
Now, what worries me is the space cut. I would lose roughly 4.5 Ft with a sub wall. Room goes to 22.4' x 13'.
If you blow across an empty bottle, you can get the air in that small chamber to resonate (make that booooh sound). If you enlarge that chamber to the size of your room, the air in there will still resonate (of course at different frequencies than the bottle). The graph below shows the resonant frequencies that will cause peaks & nulls along the 26'11" length of your room. Since the false wall will be acoustically transparent, the sound waves will still see the full length of the room. Any number with Hz after it is a problem frequency. Each problem frequency is colour coded so you can see where its peaks & nulls fall along the length of the room. All other numbers are distances from the front wall.



Notice that all the nulls fall at even divisions (half, quarters, sixths) of room length. To avoid them, place the listeners' ears at one of the odd divisions (thirds, fifths) of room length. Looking at the graph, the worst place to sit would be the midpoint of room length, where all the problem frequencies are either loud peaks or quiet nulls. By comparison, at 2/3 room length most of the problem frequencies are roughly the same level. So that's a good location to place the main row (technically, the listeners' ears, not the seat backs). Just using placement, you end up with smoother frequency response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips). Big head start for the room correction in your receiver.



With the main row at 18 feet, you'll have a full 9 feet behind it to figure out a location for the second row. With the false wall at 4.5 feet, the distance from the main row to the screen will be 13.5 feet. At that distance, a 154-inch diagonal screen will give you a 45-degree viewing angle. Roughly the same viewing angle you'd see in a typical movie theatre if you were sitting at the sweet spot 2/3 back in the auditorium. That sized screen is still about a foot short of both side walls, so you can go larger if you want a more immersive viewing angle.
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post #9 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
If you blow across an empty bottle, you can get the air in that small chamber to resonate (make that booooh sound). If you enlarge that chamber to the size of your room, the air in there will still resonate (of course at different frequencies than the bottle). The graph below shows the resonant frequencies that will cause peaks & nulls along the 26'11" length of your room. Since the false wall will be acoustically transparent, the sound waves will still see the full length of the room. Any number with Hz after it is a problem frequency. Each problem frequency is colour coded so you can see where its peaks & nulls fall along the length of the room. All other numbers are distances from the front wall.



Notice that all the nulls fall at even divisions (half, quarters, sixths) of room length. To avoid them, place the listeners' ears at one of the odd divisions (thirds, fifths) of room length. Looking at the graph, the worst place to sit would be the midpoint of room length, where all the problem frequencies are either loud peaks or quiet nulls. By comparison, at 2/3 room length most of the problem frequencies are roughly the same level. So that's a good location to place the main row (technically, the listeners' ears, not the seat backs). Just using placement, you end up with smoother frequency response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips). Big head start for the room correction in your receiver.



With the main row at 18 feet, you'll have a full 9 feet behind it to figure out a location for the second row. With the false wall at 4.5 feet, the distance from the main row to the screen will be 13.5 feet. At that distance, a 154-inch diagonal screen will give you a 45-degree viewing angle. Roughly the same viewing angle you'd see in a typical movie theatre if you were sitting at the sweet spot 2/3 back in the auditorium. That sized screen is still about a foot short of both side walls, so you can go larger if you want a more immersive viewing angle.
Sanjay - I appreciate your input. Let me marinate a bit on this and get back to you with more follow-up.
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post #10 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 04:02 PM
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How about?

That could be a rather high end room, if you used hinged wing panels to hide the door and window. The front window could get a curtain and be covered over, with some sort of
access hatch, hidden by fabric panels.

The whisper/explosion issue is all about to high a noise floor in the room. You turn up the quiet passages and then when a loud event happens, it's way too loud. A low noise floor
would allow you to preserve dynamic range of the audio side of things, as would a shadow box front of the room which help preserve the dynamic range of the projector (while
disguising 3 openings).
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post #11 of 47 Old 08-13-2019, 04:21 PM
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Tedd's solution is really good. I was going to suggest just hanging the screen on a false wall that blocks the door and windows, but that still leaves the riser height problem. Tedd's arrangement fixes that. Your space is slightly larger than mine - about 1 foot wider and a couple feet longer depending on how you measure. I have 6 seats like you described, and it fits just fine.
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post #12 of 47 Old 08-24-2019, 10:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello all, finally had some time to catch up this weekend. Definitely leaning towards building a subwall infront of the exit door and window. My thinking is that since I plan do do some led and fiber optic lights in the ceiling, I will need a place for control panel as well. My thinking is the space behind the wall can be used to house all equipment. Some things where I can use some of your guidance:

1) Width of the wall where I will be projecting is 156" and its height is 108". Now, I am planning to leave 1 ft on each side of the wall for columns that will house the front speakers. Is 1 ft too much or can this be done using less space? I assume this may depend on speakers I purchase but haven't made up my mind

2) Per attached calcs, I will go 16:9 as I do watch plenty of TV. This suggests max screen size of 151.4". Let me know if you see any issues.

3) I read some on viewing angles and took those into account as I did my calcs. Horizontal viewing angle is tad under 45 degrees to leave me 2 ft for columns and vertical viewing angle is 17.2 degrees. I am basing this off 13.5' Sdurani suggested as distance from seat to screen based on what he had shared. I just have to assume that is the right location for my room.

4) Eye level from floor is 48" and I did not assume a riser board. Reading some of the replies, it seems like riser boards help limit whisper/explosion effect. Can someone please explain this a bit further?

5) Given max screen size I can do with side columns, I will have about 33.8" of space (combined above and below the screen space), to fit equipment. My plan was to put everything I can behind the wall. (LF, RF, Center, Sub, Amp, control panel for LED lights). My thinking was I would do a fabric panel below the screen. Still working on drawing this out, but do you see any issues?

6) Any guidance around where I should place the speakers behind the wall?

So, picked up an Epson 5040 ub for the setup. More to come soon. Thanks again for all your help.

Atlmax
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post #13 of 47 Old 08-25-2019, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
How about?

That could be a rather high end room, if you used hinged wing panels to hide the door and window. The front window could get a curtain and be covered over, with some sort of
access hatch, hidden by fabric panels.

The whisper/explosion issue is all about to high a noise floor in the room. You turn up the quiet passages and then when a loud event happens, it's way too loud. A low noise floor
would allow you to preserve dynamic range of the audio side of things, as would a shadow box front of the room which help preserve the dynamic range of the projector (while
disguising 3 openings).
Tedd, with shadow box I feel cost (per my perspective) outweighs benefit. I would gain space, however, not sure how I would work in tight space behind box for speakers subs, amp, led lights panel for ceiling lights, etc. Do want to get everything possible behind wall. Also, since it is my first build, with space behind wall, I can likely correct for errors easily. Now, this will cost me 4-4.5' of space. Can you please tell me a bit more on placement of speakers and how riser board comes into play to limit impact of whisper/explosion? I added some more questions and any insight is much appreciated.

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post #14 of 47 Old 08-25-2019, 10:49 AM
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That space gained, on the people side of the screen, might actually be a luxury you want, when it comes time to plant seats where the audio is smooth, and the sight lines
are really good, and not excessive, with better light output on the screen.

You did mention building much of this, so that floor plan in post 10, is really about maximising the yield on the dollar/time/energy investment in the room.
It really isn't about the biggest screen that will fit, it is more about the overall balance and best results overall. It balances things like a person entering/exiting
the room during a movie, not disturbing those already engaged in the movie.

I don't understand why you think you need to give up 4-4.5' of room length, when it could be put to substantially better use? Usually 24-30" of room depth is enough. I am guessing
it is about the door and window on the side walls up front, but they can be hidden. As for working in that space, the simplest/cheapest/best DIY solution is Big's two goal post method and
a cleat hung screen. with a lower removeable fabric panel. Need access, remove screen (2 people) and set aside. Remove lower fabric panel and there's your access.

The shadow boxed front is about the stealth factor of hiding the door and window, with but 24" of room depth given up to the AT space.

Speaker placement is a balance between aiming for a 60 degree LR spread, while not burying the LR mains in the corners, and introducing really early reflections.

The room's noise floor is what allows one to not play volume up and down games, during a movie. What you do about the windows and doors, will be limiting factors on how great the audio can be.
If the room is all about a typical 52-55 db noise floor, then you will given up 30 db of dynamic range so there will be parts of a movie show that you won't be able to hear, and loud events will be too loud
(and potentially damaging to you in the long term and to your gear in the short term).

Much of what is in post 10's plan is about leveraging skills and knowledge, to manage costs, while avoiding commonly made mistakes.
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Do you have the seating in mind, that you wish to use? Is there an opportunity to sit in that seating, and measure eyes and ears, and tops of heads?

If so that's something that should be done, because you now have the proper hard measurements to design outwards from. You shouldn't be starting
with a set screen size, more of a wanted screen size range to see if that works with you getting proper sight lines and your projector putting up adequate
light levels on screen.
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post #16 of 47 Old 08-25-2019, 11:22 AM
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This how I see your space, with a large emphasis on overall performance with an eye towards costs (and where I would want to plant budget).

What I don't know is how you'd feel about the windows and doors being hidden and effectively being outside of the rooms isolation shell. But I'd want a
way to access those for future maintenance, or else effectively remove them on a semi-permanent basis.

With something like that established, one can then start to dial down on where the inches get placed. Things like how narrow an av rack can be, and building codes for
hallways would start to lay down a foundation for the back wall, and then one can look at seating reline depth/size and a desire to at least have seats 3' off a room boundary,
start to make their marks and then one can explore where ears end up, in terms of 3D space and then if there are any major nodal issues there.
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post #17 of 47 Old 08-26-2019, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
Any guidance around where I should place the speakers behind the wall?
In my previous reply, I posted a graph of your room's length modes (resonances). The width of your room will likewise resonate, creating room modes at specific frequencies. The graph below shows the problem frequencies and their locations. When looking at the graph, imagine where the listeners would be sitting. Each one is going to end up experiencing wildly different bass, with some listeners sitting in quiet nulls and other listeners sitting in loud peaks.



As with room length, notice that the midpoint of the dimension has the worst frequency response because the modes are resulting in the largest peaks and deepest nulls at that location. To deal with length modes, we could move the seating rearward to a calmer location (where the modes are less intense). Cannot use that approach to deal with the width modes because the midpoint of room width is the money seat. So a different approach is needed, one that actively cancels the width modes. The easiest and most effective way to do that is with placement. Room modes cannot resonate if the sources of bass (subs or speakers) are placed in their nulls.

Subwoofers should be centered in the nulls at the 1/4 and 3/4 locations of room width.



The woofers of the L/R speakers should be centered at the 1/6 and 5/6 locations of room width. Centre speaker, of course, at the midpoint of room width.



This placement should cancel (or at least minimize) the first 5 width modes (43Hz, 87Hz, 130Hz, 174Hz, 217Hz), greatly shrinking the peaks & nulls associated with those modes. Listeners across each row will experience much more consistent AND much smoother bass response. Best part: it's free (moving seating, subs & speakers doesn't cost anything).

IF you decide to place your L/R speakers for mode canceling, then they won't be in columns at the left & right walls, so you might want to re-think screen size (bigger!).
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post #18 of 47 Old 09-01-2019, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanjay - Thanks for this. So, this tells me where to place LF, C, RF, & Subs. Can you shed some light on where to place in terms of height? Given what you are saying for LF and RF, hard to do columns as that eats into screen size. Initially, my thinking was that subwoofers and center will be near bottom closer to the floor and LF / RF in columns. Also, what are your thoughts on placement of surround.

My plan is to provision the room for 7.2 but will likely go with 5.1 setup to start. Thanks for your help.

Atlmax


Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
In my previous reply, I posted a graph of your room's length modes (resonances). The width of your room will likewise resonate, creating room modes at specific frequencies. The graph below shows the problem frequencies and their locations. When looking at the graph, imagine where the listeners would be sitting. Each one is going to end up experiencing wildly different bass, with some listeners sitting in quiet nulls and other listeners sitting in loud peaks.



As with room length, notice that the midpoint of the dimension has the worst frequency response because the modes are resulting in the largest peaks and deepest nulls at that location. To deal with length modes, we could move the seating rearward to a calmer location (where the modes are less intense). Cannot use that approach to deal with the width modes because the midpoint of room width is the money seat. So a different approach is needed, one that actively cancels the width modes. The easiest and most effective way to do that is with placement. Room modes cannot resonate if the sources of bass (subs or speakers) are placed in their nulls.

Subwoofers should be centered in the nulls at the 1/4 and 3/4 locations of room width.



The woofers of the L/R speakers should be centered at the 1/6 and 5/6 locations of room width. Centre speaker, of course, at the midpoint of room width.



This placement should cancel (or at least minimize) the first 5 width modes (43Hz, 87Hz, 130Hz, 174Hz, 217Hz), greatly shrinking the peaks & nulls associated with those modes. Listeners across each row will experience much more consistent AND much smoother bass response. Best part: it's free (moving seating, subs & speakers doesn't cost anything).

IF you decide to place your L/R speakers for mode canceling, then they won't be in columns at the left & right walls, so you might want to re-think screen size (bigger!).
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post #19 of 47 Old 09-01-2019, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Tedd - No seating in mind as of now. Yes, do plan on trying them first. Maybe even start with couch type setup first then move into theater seats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Do you have the seating in mind, that you wish to use? Is there an opportunity to sit in that seating, and measure eyes and ears, and tops of heads?

If so that's something that should be done, because you now have the proper hard measurements to design outwards from. You shouldn't be starting
with a set screen size, more of a wanted screen size range to see if that works with you getting proper sight lines and your projector putting up adequate
light levels on screen.
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post #20 of 47 Old 09-01-2019, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Guys - So, here is where I am so far:

1) Tools are in (18 Brad Nailer, Miter saw, 21 angle framing gun, laser leveler, etc.) and I am practicing with them. Not ashamed to say that I had to watch a lot of youtube videos on how to use some of these tools.
2) I pulled down most of the ceiling drywall and am seeing a water pipe that runs above. This is somewhat concerning because was planning to do LED's and fiber optic in the ceiling.
3) I spent a good bit of time thinking about the build ahead and just feel that building shadow boxes are outside my skill level. I will stick to wall build infront of door and window. Additionally, no plans of doing back wall by entrance of the door as that takes away from the immediate view of the room.
4) Still thinking through AT screen vs painted drywall (similar to OriginalWhitey).

More to come later.

If you have any links to builds where all equipment is behind screen, please relay those. It would be great to see some pics to get an idea.

-Atlmax
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post #21 of 47 Old 09-01-2019, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
So, this tells me where to place LF, C, RF, & Subs.
That's where to locate them IF your priority is to use placement for mode cancelling. BTW, the reason I mentioned centering the woofers of your L/C/R speakers in the nulls is because we're trying to minimize width modes in the bass region, which is where the largest and most audible peaks & dips are. Same with your subs: keep 'em centered in those nulls.
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Can you shed some light on where to place in terms of height?
As with your room length and width, your room's height dimension is going to result in height modes, one of which will be at 126Hz and will have a large null centered at the quarter point of room height: 27" off the floor, less than a foot below the typical 36" seated ear height. IF you can centre your L/C/R woofers at the quarter point of room height, that would help reduce the 126Hz null. However, if that ends up putting your midrange & tweeter too high above your ears, then keep the L/C/R speakers on the floor and let the room correction in your receiver work on that problem.
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Given what you are saying for LF and RF, hard to do columns as that eats into screen size.
You don't have to prioritize mode cancelling when it comes to L/R speaker placement. Most people place their L/R speakers based on their preferred soundstage width or based on screen size. You know where to place your L/R speakers to minimize width modes. Up to you whether you want a slightly smaller screen that fits between the L/R speakers or slightly larger screen that covers the L/R speakers. We're talking a few degrees difference in viewing angle, not anything that will make or break the viewing experience. OR, if you really like the aesthetics of columns, make that your priority and move the L/R speakers all the way out to the front corners of the room as you'd originally planned.
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Also, what are your thoughts on placement of surround.
Side speakers mounted on the side walls, slightly forward of your main listening position. Rear speakers also mounted on the side walls, about 11' rearward of your main listening position (they'll have a 60° spread, so you can clearly hear stereo separation behind you, where our human hearing is not so hot). Should result in excellent side-vs-rear separation AND wrap-around envelopment in the surround field that is simply not possible with only 2 surround speakers.
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post #22 of 47 Old 09-22-2019, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, last few weeks I have been in the DIY Screen build forum and finally have my wall and AT screen build complete. Shout out to MississippiMan who was tremendous. Thread below highlights the build and has additional pictures incase anyone else needs it. I have added some pics on this thread as well. I will pickup here on next steps soon. Thanks for all you do. Just wanted to make sure I am giving back as well.

-Atlmax

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...een-build.html
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post #23 of 47 Old 10-21-2019, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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All, I could use some guidance on things below. Let me know if you have any suggestions.

1) Looking for some sound absorption form. I browsed Amazon but mixed reviews pushed me to check here. I plan to use these behind the wall where speakers sit.

2) Also, looking to build some sound absorption panels. Which fabric do you recommend? A link would be great.

3) I have plenty of room in the rear of the screen (~48"). Currently, I have an old Denon AVR-888 receiver, Polk Monitor's 70 Series II (L & R), Polk Center CS2, and Polk Sub PSW505. I know speaker upgrade depends on budget and preference but just wanted to get some thoughts on what are some good speaker options for 7.2. Constraint here is budget and looking for something under $2K. I will likely hold onto my PSW505 sub for now and will upgrade later.

4) Purchasing this speaker wire (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1DCPNQKKEISZB). Longest runs will be to surround about 40ft. The cable is 14 AWG. Let me know if any concerns.

Thank you very much.

-Ak
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post #24 of 47 Old 10-21-2019, 09:49 PM
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Just spitballing here but you could do Linacoustic covered by frames wrapped in GOM fabric.

https://www.jm.com/en/hvac/duct-liner/linacoustic-rc/


https://www.acoustimac.com/guilford-...gaAo5lEALw_wcB

Since you were able to DIY your screen maybe DIYSG speakers would do the job?
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/


There should be lots of examples of all of the above materials being used in these forums. Sorry I don't have examples handy.


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post #25 of 47 Old 10-22-2019, 10:15 AM
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Also, looking to build some sound absorption panels. Which fabric do you recommend? A link would be great.
Something acoustically transparent, like speaker grill cloth: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...-wide--260-335

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post #26 of 47 Old 11-05-2019, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanjay - Do sound absorption panels need to be acoustically transparent? That seemed counter intuitive. I am sure I am missing something here. Also, any recommendations on speakers under $2K?



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Something acoustically transparent, like speaker grill cloth: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...-wide--260-335
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post #27 of 47 Old 11-05-2019, 01:25 PM
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Do sound absorption panels need to be acoustically transparent?
The cloth that covers a broadband absorption panel needs to be acoustically transparent. Behind the cloth is something that absorbs the energy of the sound waves (air molecules colliding) and turns it into heat. It's simply converting one form of energy into another. If all the energy from the sound wave is not absorbed, then some of it will go through the absorption material and reflect off the wall, at which point the absorption material has a second opportunity to absorb the sound energy as it travels through again.
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Also, any recommendations on speakers under $2K?
Speakers are a very personal choice, so you should listen to a variety of speakers within your budget and choose which ones sound best to you. After all, you'll be the one living with them, not me. Having said that, I tend to like speakers that have wide dispersion (coverage for all listeners) and consistent off-axis response (speaker should sound the same or similar whether pointed at you or pointed at the person next to you). Kef or the various Harman companies (Revel, JBL, Infinity) make speakers with those qualities in mind. Also, with subwoofers taking care of the really low bass, I prefer to use bookshelf speakers rather than large floorstanding towers. Was your $2K budget for all the speakers & subs?

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post #28 of 47 Old 11-14-2019, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Sanjay, I have a POLK PSW505 sub so should be set. $2K is for speakers. With BlackFriday coming around, it would be good to pick up some quality speakers. Actually, somewhat unsure what quality even means. Most of my life I have had my polk towers and they sound ok. Any recommendation on speakers that I should listen to?



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Speakers are a very personal choice, so you should listen to a variety of speakers within your budget and choose which ones sound best to you. After all, you'll be the one living with them, not me. Having said that, I tend to like speakers that have wide dispersion (coverage for all listeners) and consistent off-axis response (speaker should sound the same or similar whether pointed at you or pointed at the person next to you). Kef or the various Harman companies (Revel, JBL, Infinity) make speakers with those qualities in mind. Also, with subwoofers taking care of the really low bass, I prefer to use bookshelf speakers rather than large floorstanding towers. Was your $2K budget for all the speakers & subs?
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post #29 of 47 Old 11-14-2019, 04:50 PM
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As mentioned in my previous post, I tend to like speakers from Kef or the various Harman companies (Revel, JBL, Infinity) and use the same bookshelf speaker at all locations. If you start a thread in the speaker section asking for recommendations, you'll get some good ones from people much more knowledgeable about speakers than I am (been ages since I've shopped for speakers).

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post #30 of 47 Old 11-14-2019, 04:58 PM
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There are plenty of home theater stores on my end of town. For example there's a Magnolia in the Best Buy at North Point mall. Or if you want a glimpse at some really high end stuff you could go here;

Atlanta Home Theater
10140 Sway Branch Dr, Roswell, GA 30075
(770) 642-5557

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