Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
I like how they use full surround scaffolding for two story homes, I've seen that in other European projects. It is rare to see here.
Having worked as a carpenter in Norway, its often just a lot quicker. It takes half a day for four people to throw up a 2 story scaffolding around a house and when you have it up everything else goes a lot quicker. Like for example, you can put the windows on the ground underneath where they go in and then four people put in an entire house worth of windows in one day with time to spare because you just lift it up between the scaffolding and the wall.
EDIT: We actually did the math one time, comparing two projects. And determined that we even increased efficiency by just throwing up the scaffolding at the start instead of being lazy and just throwing up where we thought it was really needed. Because we worked a lot quicker. Also, by using some steel zip-ties to hold the top L-shapes of the scaffolding in place (otherwise the top railing CAN fall straight off if you lean against it too hard), we further increased efficiency. Because we worked faster with more confidence when we knew for certain that we could lean towards the railing. Even the old owner of the company who has 47 years in carpentry agreed that he worked quicker when he knew he could lean towards the railing when we lifted up the top wall sections of a module-assembled cottage.
At OP: I'm glad they convinced you to get more subwooferage.
have you decided on LCRs? The danger of using subwoofer horns is that you miiight be lacking a little in midbass if the LCRs are a little lacking in that department. The initial strike of the drumstick on the drums, and the first finger tap on the bass guitar, etc, is a lot higher frequency than the strumming bass note that follows. So without proper midbass on the LCRs you suffer a lot of the believability of the sound. And that "attack" as its known, is rather directional because is such high frequency (as opposed to the low bass notes which can be played from anywhere in the room), so its best that each LCR (and also rear speakers) are capable of reproducing mid bass properly. If you sum the mid bass signal in an active crossover for a pair of extra 15" midbass enclosures then it won't be as good as if the LCRs can make that midbass themselves.
Midbass is very cheap because PA woofers are very cheap, so there's no reason not to have great midbass in the LCRs.
Active crossover these days is cheaper than a good passive crossover so don't be scared to go for an active crossover LCR setup. Especially 2-way LCRs are cheap to do with active crossover. PA compression drivers have no issues playing reaaaaally loud and clearly with very little wattage, so you can get a good low wattage amp with DSP for the LCR high frequency horns themselves and a very cheap higher wattage amp for the LCR woofers (then just choose a Sanway amp or something else that can deliver the raw juice for the subwoofers). This amplifier DSP will allow you to boost the EQ above about 13khz where most compression drivers will taper off in output (you can't boost this frequency range above the 0db point earlier than the amplifier or you risk clipping the signal and destroying the compression drivers, so if you want to boost the compression drivers' output above 13khz without DSP on the amplifier, you have to have lower the EQ signal below 13hkz and then ramp up the voltage gain on the amplifier, which in turns means you need an expensive high wattage amplifier, but then you might as well go for a DSP amplifier instead).
One note though, whatever LCR solution you go with, you're going to want to brace the enclosures more than most actually do. The signal to noise ratio of an amplifier can be 70 to 100db, meanwhile the signal to noise ratio on a pair of REALLY good LCR enclosures, is just 30db. So if you play 100db then the enclosures themselves produce 70db of noise just from the movement of the enclosure panels. And that's a REALLY good enclosure that is braced like this:
Internal stuffing and such helps you a little bit to get closer to 36-39db signal to noise ratio. But that's with rockwool and butyl mats and so forth (effectively costing a hundred times more than the 5 bucks in glue and screws you'll use to brace the enclosure A LOT with off-cuts of wood).
The bracing doesn't have to be as complex as this, but the maximum distance between bracing has to be very even. There's little point bracing one area a lot while another spot is practically unbraced.
EDIT: PS; the bracing itself also has to be braced asymmetrically for truly spectacular results. Long wood screws can be used to bridge between some pieces of the bracing so they don't resonate at the same frequencies.