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post #1 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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New HT construction build suggestions/ideas

Howdy!
I'm getting started planning early, but wanted to get some suggestions from the community.

We are going to put a contract on a house to be built in Dec (when the new lots are available) putting construction completion around May/Jun 2020. The house has a dedicated media room... and I'm trying to figure out the best way to outfit it.

The room dimensions are 16' D x 14' W. the ceiling height i'm not sure about..i think it's 8' but then slants up on both sides to what i'm thinking is 12 or 13' (i'll have to get the exact dimensions from the builder later) ..see the attached picture to see what i mean. Apparently I can't attach pictures yet... Ill have to have some new posts as a new member then i'll come back and attach them

The room has a riser in the back.

The existing equipment I have available for use is:
Receiver- Denon AVRX1200W
LR Speakers- klipsch R-26F
C Speaker - Klipsch R-25C
Surrouds - 4 Klipsch R-15M
Sub - Velodyne VRP-1000


Some thoughts:

-One really cool thing about this house is there is attic space around the side and front walls! no surrounding rooms. I'm thinking Ill build boxes on the front wall (flush with the front wall and extending into the attic) for the subs, L,C,&R). then cover the whole front wall with black GOM-FR701 wrapped around some panels with OC703 stuffed inside.

-Both the doors in the picture extend into open attic space so, I'm going to build a closet behind one of those doors to house the AV Rack.

- i think the riser is placed at 10' from the front, leaving 6' for a second row of seats (if not, i'll have them build it that way)

-I'm going to start out with 7.2 with plans to upgrade to 7.2.4 later (don't want to drop the money on a new receiver right when moving into the house)

-I'm thinking of 100' screen with first row at 10'

-My theater couch is 10' wide and the width of the room is 14' so I'm thinking of using in wall speakers (although if someone has a good alternative I can build housings in the wall extending into the attic for bookshelf speakers)

-Im thinking of using dipole or wide dispersion speakers for the Side surrounds and front firing speakers for the rear surrounds

-Should I have the builder get rid of the columns built into the wall (assuming they are not structural, i don't think they are)?

-I'm thinking I'll build 3'x6' (2-3" deep) frame panels stuffed with 703 and covered in GOM to go along both sides of the wall and run some led light strips along the bottom of the panels

-what do you think of the ceiling shape? Should I see if the builder can drop that arch and just have a flat ceiling? would that be better for figuring out acoustics and the placement of the 4 height speakers later?

The equipment I'm thinking of using in the initial build:
Receiver- Denon AVRX1200W (already own)
LR Speakers- klipsch R-26F (already own)
C Speaker - klipsch R-620F (need to purchase)
Side Surrounds - R-5650-S II (need to purchase)
Rear Surrounds - Pro-18RW (need to purchase)
Subs - 2 Monolith 12" THX Ultra (need to purchase)
Projector - Epsom 5050UB (need to purchase)

I'd like to spend less than 6k initially with plans to upgrade the receiver and add atmos speakers later.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm planning on doing all the work myself, unless there are suggestions to what it might be worth having the builder do

Thanks!!!!
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post #2 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 12:25 PM
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those can't be pictures of the same room? it is showing a riser at the front. Don't drop the ceiling, keep as much height as possible for better Atmos sound effects. I'd see if they could install those double doors opening out instead of in so they don't interfere with what seating you might end up sitting on the raised section. If you intend to fill the room with your friends for an event have them supersize the HVAC for the room, it doesn't appear so in the model home pictures.



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post #3 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=BIGmouthinDC;58454004]those can't be pictures of the same room? it is showing a riser at the front. Don't drop the ceiling keep as much height as possible for better Atmos sound effects.


No they are two different pictures I pulled off of listings on houses already built. I don't know why the owner had them reverse the direction of the riser in that picture.. good to know about the ceiling height..thanks! i've been reading quite a few of your threads... thats where I got the idea to do DIY built panels with the sound dampening inside along the sides and hiding the front speakers behind black GOM. Will probably add the reflective tape like you've done in some of your posts for reflection/dispersion as well
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post #4 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 12:33 PM
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see my other comment on the HVAC
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post #5 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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see my other comment on the HVAC
Will definitely have them make the doors open outward. Good call on the HVAC, I'll be sure to see what we can do there when we start talking to the design center. Ideally I'd like to have mechanical dampers and give the theater its own zone, but I'll have to see what that upgrade cost is. At worst I could prob have them add a few more vents and put a smart temp sensor in there that kicks on the upstairs a/c when the room rises above a certain temp

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post #6 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 12:58 PM
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Couple of other items, rather than a ceiling mount with a down pole you should probably mount your projector on a shelf hanging off the back wall, you should design something stylish with architectural details, and be sure to have the outlet and hdmi cable conduit to the correct back wall location.

Hold off on buying a screen until you are in the house, the seating is in place and you have a chance to experiment with an image on the wall in both 2.35:1 and 16:9 formats, 100 inch screen will probably be too small if you watch a lot of movies.

Lastly just a heads up, with those subs and standard builder grade construction methods you can expect to rock the house with low frequencies. When you go to the design center don't be a sucker and pay extra for what they will claim as upgraded sound proofing insulation, yes you want insulation, but it won't help with the LFE so get the cheapest. If they have other options to beef up the wall construction like using Quiet Rock it is worth considering but don't expect miracles there are a lot of things that go into aggressive sound isolation and home builders rarely are capable of doing with the resources they work with. You can only get it from custom home builders that are used to unique customization requirements.

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post #7 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Couple of other items, rather than a ceiling mount with a down pole you should probably mount your projector on a shelf hanging off the back wall, you should design something stylish with architectural details, and be sure to have the outlet and hdmi cable conduit to the correct back wall location.

Hold off on buying a screen until you are in the house, the seating is in place and you have a chance to experiment with an image on the wall in both 2.35:1 and 16:9 formats, 100 inch screen will probably be too small if you watch a lot of movies.

Lastly just a heads up, with those subs and standard builder grade construction methods you can expect to rock the house with low frequencies. When you go to the design center don't be a sucker and pay extra for what they will claim as upgraded sound proofing insulation, yes you want insulation, but it won't help with the LFE so get the cheapest. If they have other options to beef up the wall construction like using Quiet Rock it is worth considering but don't expect miracles there are a lot of things that go into aggressive sound isolation and home builders rarely are capable of doing with the resources they work with. You can only get it from custom home builders that are used to unique customization requirements.

I like the idea of back mounting the projector with a shelf. Hadn't thought of that one.

Do you think those 2 12" subs are too much for the room? The room is over the garage and only adjoins the house on 1 wall. Suggestions on different sized sub?
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post #8 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 02:15 PM
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You seem handy- I know you already own the Klipsh L and R, but have you looked into diy options? IMO assembling them is easier than designing and building panels, and they are regarded as the best value by many.
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post #9 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 02:19 PM
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I would keep the two sub design but at the price point of the Monoliths do a side by side comparison with the SVS 3000 speakers.
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post #10 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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You seem handy- I know you already own the Klipsh L and R, but have you looked into diy options? IMO assembling them is easier than designing and building panels, and they are regarded as the best value by many.
Man I wouldn't know where to start building speakers.

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post #11 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I would keep the two sub design but at the price point of the Monoliths do a side by side comparison with the SVS 3000 speakers.
Would you go with ported or sealed? At 800watts and 13" those would be powerful subs. I'll have to do a price comparison in May when I start putting things together

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post #12 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 03:49 PM
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As someone who has the exact speaker setup (minus subs) as you, you are going to be underwhelmed with them for a dedicated theater space. I would not waste the time building them into the wall, unless they are going in your living room.

Spend the time/money now on speakers so you don't have to upgrade them again.

I'd do some DIYSG HTM-10s (maybe HTM-8s) for LCR and Volt 6's for surrounds and atmos duty. They are super easy to build and you will be blown away at their sound quality. I'd reach out to Erich at diysg.com and ask him what would be best for your room size.

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post #13 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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As someone who has the exact speaker setup (minus subs) as you, you are going to be underwhelmed with them for a dedicated theater space. I would not waste the time building them into the wall, unless they are going in your living room.

Spend the time/money now on speakers so you don't have to upgrade them again.

I'd do some DIYSG HTM-10s (maybe HTM-8s) for LCR and Volt 6's for surrounds and atmos duty. They are super easy to build and you will be blown away at their sound quality. I'd reach out to Erich at diysg.com and ask him what would be best for your room size.

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Definitely something to think about. The idea of building speakers is overwhelming to me though.. looked at their website though and I feel a little better. I really don't know enough about the science of sound to make a decision of what makes a speaker "better.". How would one make of 200w speakers be underwhelming compared to another make of 200w speakers...perhaps in terms of sound quality but I think of loudness in terms of "underwhelming".
I do see your logic though. Though I'm anxious about the rabbit hole I'm going to put my mind through for the next week or two trying to understand the properties of speakers. Lol

If they are that much better, seems like it would be worth the time to build.
My only other concern would be the left and right surrounds...they will only be 2 ft from the seats so I wanted a dipole or wide dispersion speaker to eliminate hot spotting... Not sure if I can get that with the diy..I'll look into it.

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post #14 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 05:39 PM
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Even HT-10’s or HT-8’s instead of the HTM series.
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7.4.4 Theater Room: JVC-RS46U, Silver Ticket AT 2.35:1 142”, Onkyo RZ830, Anthem PVA-7, Panasonic DBT-110, JBL Studio 270’s, 4 - 15" DIY Sealed Subs

3.1 Living Room: Samsung 64” F8500 Plasma, Anthem MRX 300, Dynaudio Audience 52’s, Dynaudio Audience 122C, NHT SubOne
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post #15 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 06:11 PM
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Not sure where you are located, but if in the NY/NJ/PA area I'd show you how to build them.. if you are farther than that, I could build the crossovers for you so all you would have to do is glue together the flat packs.

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post #16 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 06:57 PM
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^ Forums and a search engine- If you can make pretty panels from wood you cut yourself, I am certain you can assemble speakers from DIYSG. I paid to have three crossovers soldered up for me, but it wasn’t an option for the 4 surrounds. Honestly, the pins and the circuit board are REALLY big, and a good place to learn to solder. I don’t know (nor want to know) if you bill at an hourly rate in whatever you do in real life, but the (reward)/(time investment) is really, really large. Just saying, the time spent reading up and assembling likely will have you ahead financially. Also- good people here like PreciseD or one of the speaker designers for DIYSG can solder them up for you.
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^ Forums and a search engine- If you can make pretty panels from wood you cut yourself, I am certain you can assemble speakers from DIYSG. I paid to have three crossovers soldered up for me, but it wasn’t an option for the 4 surrounds. Honestly, the pins and the circuit board are REALLY big, and a good place to learn to solder. I don’t know (nor want to know) if you bill at an hourly rate in whatever you do in real life, but the (reward)/(time investment) is really, really large. Just saying, the time spent reading up and assembling likely will have you ahead financially. Also- good people here like PreciseD or one of the speaker designers for DIYSG can solder them up for you.
Yeah, I've been doing the research... The more I read, the more convinced I'm becoming that diysg speakers are the way to go. Really glad you guys brought this up. I had no idea

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post #18 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 07:09 PM
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^ I’ll tell you, I went from “intimidated” to “I think two diy subwoofers the size of refrigerators are totally reasonable.”

There is a wealth of info here, and really, really positive and helpful posters (at least, in the Dedicated HT and DIY subforums, be warned about projector and vinyl subforums )
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post #19 of 59 Old 08-21-2019, 07:25 PM
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Yeah, I've been doing the research... The more I read, the more convinced I'm becoming that diysg speakers are the way to go. Really glad you guys brought this up. I had no idea

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I wish there was a me two years ago lol.. I literally listened to the wrong people (not on here) and thought klipsch this and klipsch that.. MY little $120 Volt 6 blew my F26Fs out of the water..

So I ended up doing this to them..




PS In case it wasn't clear I would do the work for free..

-Chris
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post #20 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Chris, Unfortunately I live in Houston, Im quite aways from NY. after doing more research I feel much more comfortable with the idea of building the speakers though.
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post #21 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 06:30 AM
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Thanks Chris, Unfortunately I live in Houston, Im quite aways from NY. after doing more research I feel much more comfortable with the idea of building the speakers though.
Yeah they are super simple to put together and there is a decent amount of info available to use as a guide. The soldering took the longest for me, but overall I have a little less than 8 hours assembling all 11 speakers (3 HTM-12 LCR's, 4 Volt-6 Surrounds and 4 Volt-6 Atmos)

If you need any clarification on the build you can shoot me a PM.


-Chris
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post #22 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 06:46 AM
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PS In case it wasn't clear I would do the work for free..
Really nice of you Chris. Got to love this forum and the way basically everybody comes together to help build everyone else's theaters. It's truly awesome and I just see again and again people willing to help anyone who's in pursuit of a great theater.

Stephen I second the idea of the DIYSG speakers. You'll be shocked at how much clearer they are - I would set the Klipsch up in one room and then have your DIY speakers in your theater so you can watch the same scene from a movie in each room - I guarantee you'll hear sounds out of the DIYSG speakers that you didn't know were on the soundtrack after having listened to it on the Klipsch. And if you ever approach wanting to get to reference volume they will get you a helluva lot closer than the Klipsch speakers will. That being said as I mentioned on Chris's thread the other day I'm not trashing Klipsch speakers at all they are decent big box speakers and do exactly what they're designed to do. It's just that the DIY speakers have been designed from the ground up to be the best they can possibly be for the price point without regard to economies of scale...
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post #23 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 06:47 AM
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You may want to consider Rythmik for subwoofers. They are semi local(about 3 hours) and should give you better customer service than Monoprice. Both make great subwoofers.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/index.html
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Man I wouldn't know where to start building speakers.

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There's a forum for that...
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post #25 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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You may want to consider Rythmik for subwoofers. They are semi local(about 3 hours) and should give you better customer service than Monoprice. Both make great subwoofers.
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/index.html
Thanks I'll check them out... I like the F12-300's pretty reasonable costwise too
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post #26 of 59 Old 08-22-2019, 10:10 AM
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You could get 4 BIC F12s for the price of that one lol..

Not saying they are better, but that is a lot of money for a single sub.. If you go down the DIY rabbit hole you mine as well as build some Dayton 18's with an Inuke amp.. Would cost less and give you more.. Then again you have a small space and it could be overkill

Personally I went with 4 BIC America F12s for my theater in a corner loaded arrangement (basically in each corner of the room). I have an 18" Dayton sub and a Inuke3000DSP amp that I will eventually put in, but those cheap little $200 F12 subs are fantastic for the price..

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post #27 of 59 Old 08-23-2019, 05:36 AM
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I'd ditch the riser entirely. The odds it is where you want it, is low. and it's also likely it isn't high enough for proper sightlines anyways.

I'd also eliminate the builder built columns. I'd also be looking at those side wall doors and maybe seeing if they could at least be symmetrically located, and to make sure they
don't end up where side surrounds go.

How important is a second row anyways? This could be laid out in a different configuration then two rows of seats shoehorned in. While that would be less seats, there'd be no audio compromised seats
stuck on the room's boundaries.

If this could be a single row room, then you could carve off 2' of the front and introduce a slew of high yield and very cost effective ideas. Such as simple speaker finishes, AT screen materials,
and some big and very effective DIY subs plus some bass trapping in the front corners of the room. For subs, I like the idea of www.gsgad.com's four cabinet cheap shipping, and split the four
subs with someone local.
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post #28 of 59 Old 08-23-2019, 06:02 AM
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Something like this, could be a highly effective layout, in the hands of a DIY'er.

It could be all about a "building inwards" attitude and allow one to deal with the room's issues and eliminate angled soffits, in a reasonably straight forward manner,
with some nice higher end design touches. For examples, the av rack location could have conduit run up and stepped flat soffits could hide a couple of conduit runs to the
acoustically transparent space. another plus could be it would be easy to retrofit screen wash spots up front.

Simple cleat hung fabric wall panels could hide the windows, and add some texture to the room.

And if those X'ed out columns aren't HVAC runs, maybe some rework beck there, would let you fit the projector in a hush box and hide the projector, while removing it's
noise from the room.
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post #29 of 59 Old 08-24-2019, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Just for kicks, here's a picture of my current build out in my current house. Not a great space, too open to the rest of the house and can't turn it up to where I like it. Looking forward to building in a dedicated room!

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post #30 of 59 Old 08-26-2019, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I'd ditch the riser entirely. The odds it is where you want it, is low. and it's also likely it isn't high enough for proper sightlines anyways.

I'd also eliminate the builder built columns. I'd also be looking at those side wall doors and maybe seeing if they could at least be symmetrically located, and to make sure they
don't end up where side surrounds go.

How important is a second row anyways? This could be laid out in a different configuration then two rows of seats shoehorned in. While that would be less seats, there'd be no audio compromised seats
stuck on the room's boundaries.

If this could be a single row room, then you could carve off 2' of the front and introduce a slew of high yield and very cost effective ideas. Such as simple speaker finishes, AT screen materials,
and some big and very effective DIY subs plus some bass trapping in the front corners of the room. For subs, I like the idea of www.gsgad.com's four cabinet cheap shipping, and split the four
subs with someone local.

There is attic space on the front left and right wall and above the ceiling.... so no need to build a false wall or soffit. I'm considering building soffit columns in each corner of the room to use as bass traps, however I like the Marty subs, but would 2 18"s be too much bass.. I like a lot of bass, but not so much that the wife and kids won't want to use the room.....i guess you could always just turn the bass down
Stephen Cagle is offline  
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