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post #31 of 51 Old 11-11-2019, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Update: Screen wall cabinetry is finished.

Speakers cutouts are done for the Paradigm E7s.



You can't really see it, but the cabinetry that holds the center channel speaker is angled upward slightly, about 10 degrees. Not much but it might help.

A 160" diagonal Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 ALR screen will go in between those columns.

You can also see the trim around the soffit that will hide the led tape up-lighting.
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post #32 of 51 Old 11-11-2019, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the recessed area that will house the AV equipment. My plan is to put a small AV rack on the top shelf, but it won't be much, just a receiver, AppleTV, and XBOX. Leaving room for an external amp in case I feel the LCR channels are lacking power.

Below the shelf, in the lower part of the cabinet, my plan is to put a subwoofer(s). That cabinet is 21 inches wide and 28 inches deep, so I have a decent amount of space to work with.



As you can read above, I've considered stacking a pair of SVS PB-3000s on top of one another. Another sub I've been looking at is the Monoprice M-215, as well as the PSA V3612. The big Rythmik subs are all 21 inches wide, just a little too wide for this space.

The M-215 or PSA V3612 would fit nicely in that area. I've been somewhat concerned that any sub or subs might rattle the AV cabinet above a little too much, but I've thought of a few things to plan for that. First, the sub itself would sit on concrete and the foundation, and not a wood cabinet. (I plan to pour more concrete so the floor is level). Second, I'll put some good isolation feet on the subs, like those that SVS sells. Third, I also plan to reinforce that cabinet with some heavy duty screws, mass loaded vinyl, and some high density foam so it is both really sturdy and there isn't any dead air gaps behind the sub that can build up resonances. All the subs I'm looking at are front firing and ported.

Another problem is accessibility of this sub. I have to move it to adjust the controls. Perhaps I should stick with my idea to do dual SVS PB-3000s there, with their app controlled subs.

Thats all folks. Any thoughts or comments are welcome!

Last edited by 3fingerbrown; 11-18-2019 at 02:51 PM.
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post #33 of 51 Old 11-27-2019, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Updates. Theater kitchenette cabinetry is in.



The idea here is just a place where we can set food out or make popcorn during game day parties or big movie nights. There will be a mini-fridge that is pretty quiet but I will set to a smart switch so I can turn it off with my phone during serious movie nights.



Some screen wall carpentry detail. You can see how the center channel will be angled upward:

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post #34 of 51 Old 11-28-2019, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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After much research and talking with a lot of people smarter than I am, here is my subwoofer plan. First some background: my wife isn't keen on the idea of big subs sitting out in the open, a big box to trip over, even in the corners. So I needed to disguise them somehow. The obvious way would be to do some in-wall subwoofers, but the performance would be sub-par at best and would also shake the walls. I have that recessed area in the corner of my room, but I was worried that would be too localized or would shake the AV gear in the shelves above it if I put in a dual driver monster sub. So I started looking into the idea of using the subs as end tables for the front row. A sub in this application has some specific requirements. First, it must be higher than the couch's seat cushion of 17 inches but lower than the couch arm (23 inches). The cables of the subwoofer can't be dangling out the back or the front of the sub; I wanted them concealed by the couch, so the amplifier plate hides in between the sub and the couch. Lastly, it has to be a great sub.

So my idea is a pair of PSA 3012 subs disguised as end tables. Each one houses a pair of 15" drivers in a sealed, opposed configuration that is essentially inert. If you place a drink on it, it shouldn't go anywhere. So with just the subs on the end of the couches as end tables, that would be four 15" drivers pushed by 4,000 watts RMS, that isn't a bad start.

Granted, this might not be the optimal sub placement, but it is what it is. If there are some nulls in the room at the listening positions, I can add subwoofers in the corners, one behind the chair and one in the bottom shelf of the recessed cabinet area, like this:



Here is the recessed area that will house the S1512:



It isn't ideal to go with sealed subs for a big room like this that is mainly for movies, but my design is essentially driven by the aesthetics of the subs looking like end tables. I couldn't find a ported sub that met my requirements (the SVS PB3000 came close, but I didn't like the wires dangling out the back).

The only thing I don't like about the PSAs is that they don't have the smart phone app control like the SVS, Paradigm, or ELAC, etc subs. But their performance on paper seems amazing and I'm sure once I get it dialed in it will blow my socks off if I want it to....

Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.
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post #35 of 51 Old 11-28-2019, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Another update: The oak columns got stained. The baseboard had to be an inch thicker to account for the fabricate acoustic panels.


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post #36 of 51 Old 11-29-2019, 09:50 AM
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If you went the DIY route for your subs you could build them exactly (or almost) to the size and shape you need them to be. As a bonus they would be cheaper and sound as good or better than many commercial subs.
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post #37 of 51 Old 12-01-2019, 11:58 AM
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I have or someone else may have mentioned you could do a BOSS sub system where the subs are under each chair to give you the TR you may want. I plan on doing this.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post58898456
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post #38 of 51 Old 12-02-2019, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
I have or someone else may have mentioned you could do a BOSS sub system where the subs are under each chair to give you the TR you may want. I plan on doing this.
I picked up one of the JBL subs on Black Friday for $29.99 and have the amp and cables set to arrive today - I'm going to try a single BOSS built into my chair to see how it works. Hope it's everything I've heard it is...
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post #39 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 08:02 AM
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1.
Before getting any screen it's very recommended it be used on a wall for a few weeks to see what works.


An 160" 2.39:1 screen fits inside a 169.3" 16:9 screen. Square surface for this 169.3" screen is 85.08 ft².
16:9 needs to be used for calculations since this is the format the projector outputs and brightness goes to the black bars as well.

These measurements are taken with 100% zoom.



Zoom Lens Light Loss. Going from the widest to the full telephoto setting on the 2.1x zoom lens resulted in a little more than 28% loss of light in any given color mode.


With the current setup about 50% of zoom is used, so 14% of light loss.

To calculate the fL the lumens of the present and lamp mode needs to be divided by the square surface.
Example:
Natural preset in Eco lamp has 1438lm. 1438/85.08=16.9fL
Now take out the light loss: 16.9 x 0.86=14.53fL
After this add in the gain of the screen.
Can't remember if the Slate 1.2 actually has 1.2 gain, but let's assume that it does.
14.53 x 1.2=17.43fL

15fL is recommended for SDR, 30+fL for HDR.
Lamps loose around 25% brightness after 500h, after that the light loss is linear until the estimated hour rate of the lamp, which is 50% of it's original brightness.
The closer a projector is, the brighter it will be.

That being said, for this type of fabric and ALR's in general, in order not to experience visual artifacts a minimum throw range of 1.5x is recommended. It;s very likely that even at this throw range some artifacts will be visible with bright images. A throw closer to 2.0x would be better suited.
Throw range is calculated by the width of the screen. The width of this screen is 147.6"=12.3'.
22'/12.3'=1.78x

It's unknown how much the image will be impacted by artifacts at 1.78x throw range.
Can the projector be placed further back?
You can get the screen and try the projector at different distances, with smaller images.


What are the color of the walls?
The ideal setup is a room without any reflections and a white screen. Some users are unhappy with the image of any ALR screen, without any obvious artifacts like hotspots or sparkle. But you might not notice.
While an ALR screen is good at combating ambient light, a white screen, one with maybe a bit of gain would be better. The workaround is the light should not hit the screen directly. Recessed lights in the viewing are and not in the screen area.
And for only 5-10% of sports use I would just get a white screen and manage the lightning in the room.

As to what white screen you should get, make a thread or read some of the other ones here:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/
Of course a simple Silver Ticket/Carl's/Elite white fabric would do well.

If you want a screen with some ALR properties without the downsides, and increase the contrast of the image certain paint mixes can be used:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...-2-thread.html


To read more about projector use in ambient light, check out this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ent-light.html

A general discussion on white/grey/ALR screens:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...op-whites.html



2.Use this calculator.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Eps...ulator-pro.htm

3. I don't believe there is any significant light output difference between the 5050 and 6050.

4. The lamp will wear out quicker if used on a higher setting. But they are not that expensive.
There is an increased thermal stress when using the projector in a higher lamp mode, but I don't know how much that will actually affect it's lifespan. If it's going to be used 5 hours every day for 10 years, that might cause some components to fail quicker. I'd say don't worry about it.

5. The mount the 6050UB is great.
Not sure how flush it gets.

Please consider treating the room for wall reflections.
Demonstration:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiond...2721894385217/
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post #40 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 08:11 AM
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A few pages back on the 5050/6050 thread someone asked how does the projector look like with lights on.
From this post onward:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post58830924

Some examples of Slate 1.2:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58039340

There was a post with pictures on the 5050/6050 thread about someone using the projector with a Slate 1.2, and there were no visible hotspots sparkle, nor did the user claim to be any. But the throw range was around 2.2x.

Slate 0.8 and 1.2 have been compared to the Cinegrey 3D/5D and Carl's ALR. The link above with the projector use in ambient light thread has a few pictures with a Cinegrey 3D, and a link with more pictures. The throw range is 1.5x, and a hotspot is clearly visible when the image is bright/close to white.

An example of an ALR material similar to the Cinegrey 5D, with an Epson 6030UB projector. There seems to be no discernible hotspot. It does not mention the distance from projector to screen though:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post41598081


For room treatment and wall reflections, there is this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...image-232.html

The issue is what will the negative effects of the 6050UB and a Slate 1.2 at 1.78x throw range.
You could try it and see what it looks like, and send it back if it's too bad.
Or get a white screen.
Or use paints.
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post #41 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
A few pages back on the 5050/6050 thread someone asked how does the projector look like with lights on.
From this post onward:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post58830924

Some examples of Slate 1.2:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58039340

There was a post with pictures on the 5050/6050 thread about someone using the projector with a Slate 1.2, and there were no visible hotspots sparkle, nor did the user claim to be any. But the throw range was around 2.2x.

Slate 0.8 and 1.2 have been compared to the Cinegrey 3D/5D and Carl's ALR. The link above with the projector use in ambient light thread has a few pictures with a Cinegrey 3D, and a link with more pictures. The throw range is 1.5x, and a hotspot is clearly visible when the image is bright/close to white.

An example of an ALR material similar to the Cinegrey 5D, with an Epson 6030UB projector. There seems to be no discernible hotspot. It does not mention the distance from projector to screen though:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post41598081


For room treatment and wall reflections, there is this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...image-232.html

The issue is what will the negative effects of the 6050UB and a Slate 1.2 at 1.78x throw range.
You could try it and see what it looks like, and send it back if it's too bad.
Or get a white screen.
Or use paints.
Seymour AV allows you to buy the screen material in custom sizes and DIY the frame. Give them a call they could help out with best material for your room conditions and seating distance.

http://www.seymourav.com/?gclid=CjwK...BoCs8sQAvD_BwE

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post #42 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Seymour AV allows you to buy the screen material in custom sizes and DIY the frame. Give them a call they could help out with best material for your room conditions and seating distance.

http://www.seymourav.com/?gclid=CjwK...BoCs8sQAvD_BwE

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The other obvious ALR option would be 0.8 Slate, but the 1.78x throw range might still not be enough.
And XY screens 0.8 Black Crystal.

This post and the others discuss ALR's that have less artifacts:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post58813314
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post #43 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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If you went the DIY route for your subs you could build them exactly (or almost) to the size and shape you need them to be. As a bonus they would be cheaper and sound as good or better than many commercial subs.
Brazensol, you are absolutely right going DIY would be cheaper. After your post I started looking into some DIY options. Unfortunately I just don’t think I’m willing to put in the time for this project...

So I pulled the trigger on a SVS SB16 Ultra, Black Friday deal for $1500! it will go in the bottom of that recessed area in the front right corner. I’m still going with dual PSA 3012s as end tables, but I wanted the SVS for that recessed area because it has the app control. The back of the sub won’t be accessible so having app control is a must, unless I wanted to be sliding a heavy sub in and out every time I wanted to tweak a setting...
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post #44 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
A few pages back on the 5050/6050 thread someone asked how does the projector look like with lights on.
From this post onward:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post58830924

Some examples of Slate 1.2:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58039340

There was a post with pictures on the 5050/6050 thread about someone using the projector with a Slate 1.2, and there were no visible hotspots sparkle, nor did the user claim to be any. But the throw range was around 2.2x.

Slate 0.8 and 1.2 have been compared to the Cinegrey 3D/5D and Carl's ALR. The link above with the projector use in ambient light thread has a few pictures with a Cinegrey 3D, and a link with more pictures. The throw range is 1.5x, and a hotspot is clearly visible when the image is bright/close to white.

An example of an ALR material similar to the Cinegrey 5D, with an Epson 6030UB projector. There seems to be no discernible hotspot. It does not mention the distance from projector to screen though:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post41598081


For room treatment and wall reflections, there is this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...image-232.html

The issue is what will the negative effects of the 6050UB and a Slate 1.2 at 1.78x throw range.
You could try it and see what it looks like, and send it back if it's too bad.
Or get a white screen.
Or use paints.
Noob,

You’ve given me lots to think about. I still like the idea of doing an ALR screen. I’m looking for a screen with mild light rejection for the occasional ambient light use, mainly for sports parties where its nice to have some lights on to eat pizza. That is only about 10% of my current use, but it would be really great to have even if it was a minority of the time. The issue you’ve identified is whether I’m sacrificing anything for dark theater use. This is a light controlled environment, it is a dark theater, though not black.

Here are some reviews of the Slate 1.2:

“The Screen Innovations Zero Slate 1.2 will be the screen of choice for home theater buffs who need mild ambient light rejection. It has the most natural image of any screen in the shootout with the fewest visible artifacts and the smoothest possible picture.”

The Black Diamond has 90% light rejection, so it seems like it is made for even higher ambient light situations. That isn’t my situation, where I have a low level of ambient light for sports parties.

I think I can move the projector location back form 22 feet. I’ll have to go and see how far back I could go without too much trouble.

But I am concerned about is the half-gain viewing angle. It seems like that is the biggest downside to an ALR screen, the seats on the sides of the theater, with much higher viewing angles, see a less bright image. I’m going to have to do some measuring and math to see if that would create any problems, probably for just the sides of the front row...
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post #45 of 51 Old 12-06-2019, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post
Noob,

You’ve given me lots to think about. I still like the idea of doing an ALR screen. I’m looking for a screen with mild light rejection for the occasional ambient light use, mainly for sports parties where its nice to have some lights on to eat pizza. That is only about 10% of my current use, but it would be really great to have even if it was a minority of the time. The issue you’ve identified is whether I’m sacrificing anything for dark theater use. This is a light controlled environment, it is a dark theater, though not black.

Here are some reviews of the Slate 1.2:

“The Screen Innovations Zero Slate 1.2 will be the screen of choice for home theater buffs who need mild ambient light rejection. It has the most natural image of any screen in the shootout with the fewest visible artifacts and the smoothest possible picture.”

The Black Diamond has 90% light rejection, so it seems like it is made for even higher ambient light situations. That isn’t my situation, where I have a low level of ambient light for sports parties.

I think I can move the projector location back form 22 feet. I’ll have to go and see how far back I could go without too much trouble.

But I am concerned about is the half-gain viewing angle. It seems like that is the biggest downside to an ALR screen, the seats on the sides of the theater, with much higher viewing angles, see a less bright image. I’m going to have to do some measuring and math to see if that would create any problems, probably for just the sides of the front row...
The pictures in the link above with the 5050/6050 are not great, but it gives you an idea of what to expect with a white screen.
Also the pictures with the Cinegrey 3D in different lightning scenarios are also a good indicator of white vs ALR.

I mentioned this before, but paints would be the midway between an ALR screen and a white screen. And cheaper.
Some examples of paint:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...l#post46962857

The price, the risk of visual artifacts, the narrow viewing angle, don't bode well for the ALR's, unless you absolutely need them.
You can get a sample and see how much the ARL helps.





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post #46 of 51 Old 12-07-2019, 05:28 AM - Thread Starter
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So here is a diagram of my theater with angles:



You can see that the worst angle will be the far side seat on the front row, with a 22 degree viewing angle. The primary viewing row will be the second row, and that will have an even better viewing angle of approximately 10-12 degrees. So I think I will be okay on viewing angles and brightness....

Painting a screen is an intriguing option that is inexpensive and I could always upgrade to a screen later. But, I have some texture to my drywall, and I might have to get the drywall guys to come in and smooth it out. That would be costly, not sure what, and that is pretty hard to do right now since they are painting the theater right now, so I’d have to kick the painters out and that would probably cost me something too since I’m messing up their schedule. Plus it doesn’t look great, unless I painted a black border around the projector area, but now I’m paying for all that too. Between the drywallers smoothing it out and the painter doing a special spray paint color there with a black border I’m probably looking at $1000 bucks. DIY is not an option, my paint skills aren’t put to my standards...

So going back to the Slate 1.2, my main concern is risk of visual artifacts. I’m going to see if I can back up the projector and give Screen Innovations a call to see if they have any real world safe distances they can give me.

Thanks for the input!!!!
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post #47 of 51 Old 12-07-2019, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post
So here is a diagram of my theater with angles:

You can see that the worst angle will be the far side seat on the front row, with a 22 degree viewing angle. The primary viewing row will be the second row, and that will have an even better viewing angle of approximately 10-12 degrees. So I think I will be okay on viewing angles and brightness....

Painting a screen is an intriguing option that is inexpensive and I could always upgrade to a screen later. But, I have some texture to my drywall, and I might have to get the drywall guys to come in and smooth it out. That would be costly, not sure what, and that is pretty hard to do right now since they are painting the theater right now, so I’d have to kick the painters out and that would probably cost me something too since I’m messing up their schedule. Plus it doesn’t look great, unless I painted a black border around the projector area, but now I’m paying for all that too. Between the drywallers smoothing it out and the painter doing a special spray paint color there with a black border I’m probably looking at $1000 bucks. DIY is not an option, my paint skills aren’t put to my standards...

So going back to the Slate 1.2, my main concern is risk of visual artifacts. I’m going to see if I can back up the projector and give Screen Innovations a call to see if they have any real world safe distances they can give me.

Thanks for the input!!!!
Stealth walls are not bad looking, and you can use whatever format you want:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post58806334

In any case, masking can be used to cover the part of the unwanted wall.

This thread is very similar to yours and a stealth wall was also discussed, with the same projector even:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58835254

But if painting the wall is a problem, you can build a screen and buy fabric to paint on. Or make a screen as big as the wall .
Or buy a cheap screen with a white PVC and paint it.

If you really want an ALR, why not go for something that has a lower minimum recommended distance. Some of these also come with wider viewing angles:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58660388
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...l#post58660710
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post #48 of 51 Old 12-10-2019, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah painting on my screen just isn't the best option in my opinion. I'd have to pay the drywaller to smooth out the screen wall, because it has a texture and variation to the current drywall finish. Then I'd have to pay the painter to paint a black frame for the screen and then spray the screen paint, which is a lot of masking and painting. All of this adds up to at least $1,000, which is a good chunk of what it would cost to buy a pretty top notch screen. And making my own screen isn't an option either, my DIY skills in this department simply don't match my standards for finish quality...

I measured my projector throw distance and the outlet for the projector is currently sitting at about 23.5 feet from the screen. So I could mount the projector in front of that outlet at 22 feet, or just a little further back so the outlet is directly above the projector and we'll call it 23 feet distance. Or I could mount the projector just barely behind the outlet so it is a 24 foot run. Or I could move the outlet back a bit, but then we are trading brightness. I think I'll just get the Epson 6050 and play around with some mounting distances. I'll try it in the forward position and see if the artifacts are noticeable.

I actually called Screen Innovations and they said I should feel comfortable mounting the screen up to 17 feet with that projector, and that the risk of visual artifacts is minimal at the distances I'm looking at. Overall I'm feeling pretty comfortable the ALR Slate 1.2 is a good choice. My primary viewing row is the second row, and the far seat in that row has only a 10 degree viewing angle, which looking at your graph seems like 95% brightness. Only the far sides of the front row will see the worst viewing angles, and even then it is just 22 degrees, probably 70% brightness. These couches are 12-13 feet wide, each fits 8 people at least, so we are talking about a crowd of 16 people, and only two of those people have a less than optimal seat (but still pretty dang good!). I can live with that for now. In five or so years when high powered laser projectors really come down in price, I can upgrade and sell the 6050UB.

Thanks for your advice!
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post #49 of 51 Old 12-10-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post
Yeah painting on my screen just isn't the best option in my opinion. I'd have to pay the drywaller to smooth out the screen wall, because it has a texture and variation to the current drywall finish. Then I'd have to pay the painter to paint a black frame for the screen and then spray the screen paint, which is a lot of masking and painting. All of this adds up to at least $1,000, which is a good chunk of what it would cost to buy a pretty top notch screen. And making my own screen isn't an option either, my DIY skills in this department simply don't match my standards for finish quality...

I measured my projector throw distance and the outlet for the projector is currently sitting at about 23.5 feet from the screen. So I could mount the projector in front of that outlet at 22 feet, or just a little further back so the outlet is directly above the projector and we'll call it 23 feet distance. Or I could mount the projector just barely behind the outlet so it is a 24 foot run. Or I could move the outlet back a bit, but then we are trading brightness. I think I'll just get the Epson 6050 and play around with some mounting distances. I'll try it in the forward position and see if the artifacts are noticeable.

I actually called Screen Innovations and they said I should feel comfortable mounting the screen up to 17 feet with that projector, and that the risk of visual artifacts is minimal at the distances I'm looking at. Overall I'm feeling pretty comfortable the ALR Slate 1.2 is a good choice. My primary viewing row is the second row, and the far seat in that row has only a 10 degree viewing angle, which looking at your graph seems like 95% brightness. Only the far sides of the front row will see the worst viewing angles, and even then it is just 22 degrees, probably 70% brightness. These couches are 12-13 feet wide, each fits 8 people at least, so we are talking about a crowd of 16 people, and only two of those people have a less than optimal seat (but still pretty dang good!). I can live with that for now. In five or so years when high powered laser projectors really come down in price, I can upgrade and sell the 6050UB.

Thanks for your advice!
At 22 degress the gain of the screen will be around 0.75 gain (from the 1.2 in the center). That's around 60% of the center brightness.
Might be ok.

You can try the ALR sure, and see how it works out.

It's easy building a DIY screen, just build a wooden frame and stretch the fabric on it.
The other option would be to buy a cheap screen and paint it.
This could be the back up option if the ALR doesn't work out. It would also fix any hotspot and angle issues. It's significantly cheaper than an ALR that size.
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post #50 of 51 Old 12-10-2019, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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The color for the ceiling and the cabinets is 7265 Mount Etna by Sherwin Williams. I couldn't get away with an all black theater, but this is pretty dark:

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post #51 of 51 Old 12-11-2019, 08:06 PM
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Was hoping for a life-size cutout of a big daddy, great work though
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Marantz SR6013 DIYSG 1099s Volt 6s Dayton PA-460s Inuke 3000 MiniDSP 2x4
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