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Originally Posted by
PreciseD
Probably better off just having the wire come out a hole the same size and caulk it.
I agree.
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Originally Posted by
Twelton43
... he told me that double 5/8” drywall w Green Glue treatment has been shown to adversely affect room modes wrt LFE....I understand substantial bass traps are needed? Any suggestions regarding DIY bass traps?
I have not heard of this before and know that many of the professional theater designers use this technique. I imagine with the new EQ's REW, ETC... these days that the room modes are easier to correct as long as the w/l/h of the room and seating positions don't create too much trouble. DD/GG may help some bass some but doubt it will change bass nodes much.
People have used risers with venting, behind screen areas in front, soffits, and DIY triangles in the corners (Roxul, OC703, OC705, Pillows from Walmart etc..., to help as bass traps--to each his/her own.
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Originally Posted by
htpc-geek
I did the double drywall and green glue job between the joists, and while I'm glad I did, it's by far the worst "home improvement" job I've ever done.
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Originally Posted by
Twelton43
Haha. Yeah. ...The tedious part is sealing all the cracks w acoustic sealant!
I have seen it done in several builds and it does seem like a sore shoulders PITA, but most people that did it don't regret the results (at least they don't post that they do). I just know that when I'm done with the theater, if I don't do it, I will always wonder, "could it have been better?" (Especially. every time dog claws walk across the hardwood floor above.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ladeback
I have a hardwood floor above so all the nails are pocking through underneath and I don't really want to spend the time cutting them down. Has anyone had any luck just pushing the drywall up against them....So you what did you fill the gaps in on the sides with, acoustical caulk?
YES!- (See the quote below) and yes you will want to fill the gaps.
"Quote:
Originally Posted by A.T.M. View Post
I originally found your thread by searching "nails through ceiling". You said, I believe on one of the first few pages, [you used a rubber mallet to pound the dry wall up between the joists into the nails that were sticking through from the floorboards above (Pls correct me if I'm wrong)?]
-How did this work? I have a 100+ year old ceiling and the square nails readily poke through from the flooring above.
-Does this technique cause the nails or the flooring above to become loose?--I have enough creaking in my floors
-Were you able to get it snug against the "ceiling" with GG?
Thanks Aaron!
As long as the nails are not at a bunch of different angles, pounding the drywall onto them works just fine. I didn't have to hammer on it, more like knocking something into place with a rubber mallet. It doesn't push the nails back up at all, because it takes very little force to push a sharp nail through drywall, and a lot of force to back a nail out of wood.
I could easily tell if there was a gap still because the screws would either not catch at all or would catch and pull all the way through the drywall. If the drywall is flush to the wood, the screw will not just pull through the drywall unless you overdrive it like crazy. If there is a gap, it will just blow right through the backside of the drywall. If that happened, I hit it a few more times with the mallet.
___
The "Island View Theater" build
My (former) little Cherrywood Theater"
Quote:
Originally Posted by
htpc-geek
... just took them out with my angle grinder
It will be a PITA but I think this is what I'll have to do (probably with Liquid Nitrogen spray to keep the heat down so I don't burn the floor above--an ocd and an unlikely needed action, but I really don't want blackened flooring).
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Twelton43
Anyone have strong feelings regarding using on-ceiling vs in-ceiling mounted speakers for ATMOS? I was planning to use 4 SVS Prime Elevation speakers directed to the MLP.
When atmos 1st came out, people here were just putting up on-ceiling mounted speakers for ATMOS, and liked them. But most current builds, it seems, end up making in-ceiling speaker choices with backer boxes. If you had a ceiling that is 9ft + I think on ceiling speakers would be great. but if you have <8' ceilings, I would use in-ceiling speakers to help create an even more seamless ATMOS image.--Again, I wouldn't want to be done and think, man the image sounds good; BUT, could it be better if the speakers were xx inches farther away from my head? DIY does sound like the way to go for ceiling speakers too. People love the DIY Volts etc for ceiling duty.
I wouldn't finish the front wall with drywall unless someone is going to see it, AND you care what it looks like behind the screen. In the end everything will be covered with insulation and or painted black and the added open insulation may also act as a Bass trap (Baffle wall excluded).
I also like the wider than needed screen concept and am leaning that way myself. I will probably have wide speakers outside of the screen (so L/R will likely be to industry suggested angles), but with a screen that big you can always use masking to make the screen whatever size you want and have some flexibility with speaker placement (as stated above).
FWIW and IMHO
Aaron