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post #91 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 10:50 AM
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[quote=Ladeback;58821212]
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I don't think you could just push drywall into the nails, but maybe? I had a few nails here and there and just took them out with my angle grinder, but that was only a dozen or so. A whole hardwood floor would be a little demoralizing.

I was afraid of this. Not really wanting to suit up to grind off 100's of flooring nails. I may just not do it and live with it. Insulation, clips, channel with DD and GG should be good enough for me. It's not that bad.
Do you guys have a Harbor Freight? They often have $9.99 coupons for a 4.5" angle grinder and you just need to notch the nail and then can use a pair of pliers or vice grips.
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post #92 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 10:57 AM
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[quote=Tedd;58881804]
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Do you guys have a Harbor Freight? They often have $9.99 coupons for a 4.5" angle grinder and you just need to notch the nail and then can use a pair of pliers or vice grips.
There is one close to me, but I am not wanting to take the hours of time to remove them seeing I want my room to be 20'x25'. That's a lot of nails.

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post #93 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
I am revisiting the concept of having a larger AT screen (covering the vast majority of the wall, including my front left and right speakers. I am now considering reducing my spend on other aspects of the project (carpet, seating and screen) in order to replace my projector so I can get one with lens memory and hopefully enough lumens to cover a 150" 2.39:1 screen. I have wife approval, but I'm having a hard time finding a projector that meets my needs (lumens and lens memory) unless I go to a pixel shifter. I am going to post in the projector section, but if anyone has any suggestions for me I'm all ears.

I am also considering a DIY spandex screen to save the $$ for a new projector (as previously referenced) and bluray player. I have no knowledge of the quality of screens made from spandex. I am confident I can build one with the right materials though. Any recommendations here would also be appreciated!

My build progress is slowing down a bit intentionally so I have the time to make these critically important decisions!!
I will draft you a build diagram for your screen and send you a link to where you can get the spandex.. As long as you have a pocket hole jig (KREG) you can easily make your screen and for under $200..

As far as projector I went from Epson 5040UB to 5050UB to the JVC RS2000.. With a light controlled room I do not miss the brightness of the Epson and LOVE this JVC RS2000... I will email you a contact and see if they still have it on special (WAY below MSRP)

Expect something this weekend from me.

Happy Thanksgiving!!
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post #94 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 06:15 PM
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For the foot fall drywall I started grinding off the protruding nails, but got too nervous that some hidden tinder may light up in my old structure. I ended up trying to bang them flat. Not ideal tho. The drywall quietens and muffles footsteps, but doesn't eliminate them for my case.

Safe n Sound, or any other fluffy insulation, does very little for soundproofing. Use regular glass fiber wool insulation instead.


Spandex screens are excellent, especially for close viewing distances. They hold up to equivalent commercial products if built using AVS guideline. Here is my experience:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...ning-help.html
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post #95 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PreciseD View Post
I will draft you a build diagram for your screen and send you a link to where you can get the spandex.. As long as you have a pocket hole jig (KREG) you can easily make your screen and for under $200..

As far as projector I went from Epson 5040UB to 5050UB to the JVC RS2000.. With a light controlled room I do not miss the brightness of the Epson and LOVE this JVC RS2000... I will email you a contact and see if they still have it on special (WAY below MSRP)

Expect something this weekend from me.

Happy Thanksgiving!!
Thanks Chris!

Thats great. I don't have a pocket hole jig, but it sounds like a tool I need (i like tool shopping almost as much as HT)!

Interesting regarding your projector experience. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 and am looking at the JVC NX5 or 7 (at the right price). I'll check out the RS2000!

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post #96 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
Thanks Chris!



Thats great. I don't have a pocket hole jig, but it sounds like a tool I need (i like tool shopping almost as much as HT)!



Interesting regarding your projector experience. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 and am looking at the JVC NX5 or 7 (at the right price). I'll check out the RS2000!
RS2000 is the NX7
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post #97 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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RS2000 is the NX7


Ha! I thought that might be the case. What size is your screen Chris?

Really really hoping I can find a great price for Black Friday or Cyber Monday!! I’m all ears for ideas on where to buy.




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post #98 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
Ha! I thought that might be the case. What size is your screen Chris?

Really really hoping I can find a great price for Black Friday or Cyber Monday!! I’m all ears for ideas on where to buy.




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My screen is about 144" 2.39:1




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post #99 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah that’s awesome. Do you use a scaler and anamorphic lens or just the lens memory?


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post #100 of 155 Old 11-27-2019, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
Yeah that’s awesome. Do you use a scaler and anamorphic lens or just the lens memory?


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Just lens memory..

I have 2:1, 2.39:1 and 16:9 programmed in..
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post #101 of 155 Old 11-28-2019, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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So I revisited my HVAC plan and am now going to be installing insulated duct work in the ceiling and a return near the floor.

I was quoted $4000 for a mini split system and my previous plan of just a baseboard heater and exhaust fan w fresh air intake will not provide any cooling in the summer.

The HVAC tech feels comfortable the insulated ducts will not allow sound transfer. I hope this is a wise choice...


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post #102 of 155 Old 11-28-2019, 07:58 AM
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$4000 for a minisplit??? You seem handy enough, why not install one yourself for less than $1000?
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post #103 of 155 Old 11-28-2019, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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$4000 for a minisplit??? You seem handy enough, why not install one yourself for less than $1000?


Haha. Yeah I thought about that. I can’t seem to find my vacuum pump.

I used to build refrigeration systems for over locking computers (nerd alert!)




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post #104 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Big decision made yesterday! At the wise convincing of PreciseD and nbynw I have ordered a JVC DLA NX7 projector and am planning to build a 140” scope screen from spandex. Here is my new end wall layout.

I now plan to bring my front left and right speakers in behind the far ends of the screen. I could go on the outside between the wall and the screen if needed, but the wife wants to hang black velvet drapes there and I’m sure they would affect the acoustics.

I guess that is a good question... how much would they affect acoustics, because I might want side masking panels for 16:9 content and those panels would cover the left and right speaker positions.

My wife and I spent a few hours yesterday looking at design elements (we had to shave off $$ to afford the projector). I’ll post our latest design scheme later today.

Lastly, I am now going to be having four HVAC runs through the ceiling above the theater room. Two for air into the room and two for air upstairs. These dusts are going to be insulated and fairly long. I am also going to have an insulated air return through the right side wall. The HVAC tech is confident the insulation of the duct work will be sufficient to block sound transfer out of the room.

Comment please!

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post #105 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 07:56 AM
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I have a fairly old SMX 2.35 screen. I bought it with side masking panels for 16:9 content. When not in use I store them in a closet. Long story short, They haven't moved in over 5 years. I never bother, my room doesn't reflect a lot of light back on the screen and the side bars don't bother me. As for black masking that doesn't do significant damage to the audio the pro masking versions are somewhat "see through". In a room with bright lights on, you can see the screen through the masking. During use they are as black as you would want. SeymourAV sells their black masking fabric on their store by the yard. It is called Millibel.
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post #106 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 07:59 AM
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found these images of the Seymour AT masking panels. Old Audioholics review.





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post #107 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah, yes. That makes sense. I can indeed are the screen behind. Thanks!!


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post #108 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 12:56 PM
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$4K is on the high side for a mini split for someone who has any DIY ability IMO. Hire a tech to come pull a vacuum and charge it (about the same as buying the tools necessary), but install it yourself and also order it yourself. Plenty of online outfits will size it and get you the right parts for install and you will be off and running. Just keep your lineset as short as possible. The new low temp units are quite impressive for both heat and cool.
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post #109 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynkage View Post
$4K is on the high side for a mini split for someone who has any DIY ability IMO. Hire a tech to come pull a vacuum and charge it (about the same as buying the tools necessary), but install it yourself and also order it yourself. Plenty of online outfits will size it and get you the right parts for install and you will be off and running. Just keep your lineset as short as possible. The new low temp units are quite impressive for both heat and cool.
Local auto parts stores will "rent" you a vaccum for free (not sure if that is true in Canada) or you can buy one from Amazon for around $120 USD)... No need to charge them as the condensers all come pre-charged..
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post #110 of 155 Old 12-01-2019, 05:08 PM
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Haha. Yeah I thought about that. I can’t seem to find my vacuum pump.

I used to build refrigeration systems for over locking computers (nerd alert!)




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I used to do "extreme" clocking with ice (custom built exchanger).. About 8 years ago I ran my computer at 5ghz on ice and thought it was the coolest thing ever.. Now I run over 5ghz on air lol.. Crazy how tech has changed...

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post #111 of 155 Old 12-02-2019, 10:13 PM
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I used to do "extreme" clocking with ice (custom built exchanger).. About 8 years ago I ran my computer at 5ghz on ice and thought it was the coolest thing ever.. Now I run over 5ghz on air lol.. Crazy how tech has changed...
Humm....

Back in the late 90's early 2000's we used to use peltier plates to get above the 1GH barrier with the new Athlon chips from AMD. We were also enamored with the 3DFX VooDoo 4MB vesa localbus and then the first pci video cards. They wiped the market for high end video cards at the time. ATI was really trying to catch up and a small unknown card maker called Nvidia was trying to make a go at it as well! While this has nothing to do with Minisplit install's it was a trip down memory lane!! 32MB of RAM was unheard of unless you were rich! a 32MB simm module was about $900 at the time! I had 2 of them!!

BTW Twelton43 love your build!! Keep up the good work! Sorry for the OT

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post #112 of 155 Old 12-02-2019, 11:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah. I was a hard core gamer that fell into phase change trying to overclock my system to get it to run faster. I remember getting my 2.4 GHz Northbridge up to 4.0 GHz. I was so proud! I think I still have the CPUZ screenshot. I then got more into the actual design and construction of refrigeration units and built a custom chill box. It was crazy elaborate and I put a ton of time and energy into it. I pulled it out of storage a few weeks ago and after 13 years it ran like a charm and pulled down to -30C (no load though). See attached pic of the front.

The good old days with too much time on my hands. I’m telling you my HT hobby is quite similar... I love creating and optimizing!

For fun: https://forums.extremeoverclocking.c...=196607&page=6

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post #113 of 155 Old 12-02-2019, 11:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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$4K is on the high side for a mini split for someone who has any DIY ability IMO. Hire a tech to come pull a vacuum and charge it (about the same as buying the tools necessary), but install it yourself and also order it yourself. Plenty of online outfits will size it and get you the right parts for install and you will be off and running. Just keep your lineset as short as possible. The new low temp units are quite impressive for both heat and cool.


Hmmm... any specific brands that are reasonable and reliable? My HVAC guy suggested there were a lot of cheap units on the market that one could order but if they ever broke down you’d never get parts for them.

What about about this... putting a baseboard heater in for heating and then a basic air conditioner unit for cooling. The A/C could be mounted outside the theater room (it would be under an 8’ wide deck so never exposed to the elements).

Thoughts??

I’m feeling like for future resale or alternative use of the HT room, I need the vents. I suppose I could go to this solution if the vents and duct work ever posed a problem.

They are installing this week so I need to sort this out. Freezing in our house right now w NO FURNACE!


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post #114 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
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Hmmm... any specific brands that are reasonable and reliable? My HVAC guy suggested there were a lot of cheap units on the market that one could order but if they ever broke down you’d never get parts for them.

What about about this... putting a baseboard heater in for heating and then a basic air conditioner unit for cooling. The A/C could be mounted outside the theater room (it would be under an 8’ wide deck so never exposed to the elements).

Thoughts??

I’m feeling like for future resale or alternative use of the HT room, I need the vents. I suppose I could go to this solution if the vents and duct work ever posed a problem.

They are installing this week so I need to sort this out. Freezing in our house right now w NO FURNACE!


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I certainly don't want to keep you and your family from having heat in the dead of winter!

I personally went with LG. I used the LGRED low temp units. They have on wall, ducted and air handlers all driven from their very efficient heat pumps. Mitsubishi and Daikin both have some versions of the high efficient low temp versions as well. I too would want one that could be serviced in the future. Also if you install this type of system the resale should be fine because you will still have industry accepted heating and cooling with the added bonus of it being a separately controlled unit. If there is a deck outside of the theater you can put the condensor under it (provided the deck is high enough above the ground) and it will be out of the way as well. these are just ideas and you certinly could go with standard duct work and attach it to your current HVAC system and that too is a perfectly acceptable solution. It really ends up being what you want and how you spend your budget for your room. At least a mini split can be installed without taking down your primary HVAC.

I'm sure whatever solution you come up with will be best for you and your family. You can definitely ad a mini split later as long as you plan for the extra electrical circuit and line set access ahead of time.

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I went with a MR COOL since they honor the warranty when you self install.. LG requires a licensed contractor to install their units to keep the 10 warranty valid.

I installed my 9k BTU unit for under $1000 (MR COOL Unit, Vacuum Pump, Wall Bracket and Electrical) and got almost $700 back from my local utility company for installing a high efficiency A/C and Heat Pump..

I love knowing that I can heat and cool my room interdependently without the need for some crazy labyrinth of duct work to keep it "silent"..
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post #116 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 12:19 PM
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I have heard good things about the Mr. Cool units.

Unfortunately for me I needed a complex setup with a 4 port branch box and future expansion capabilities and a separate unit for constant cooling for the theater equipment room. I too wanted to avoid duct work for a myriad of reasons. The ability to heat/cool individual rooms is really a bonus, kind of like a tankless water heater, don't heat all of that water and keep it hot and you have continuous hot water. That's a huge plus for a family with kids/teens who love their showers!!
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post #117 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 12:50 PM
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I have heard good things about the Mr. Cool units.

The ability to heat/cool individual rooms is really a bonus, kind of like a tankless water heater, don't heat all of that water and keep it hot and you have continuous hot water. That's a huge plus for a family with kids/teens who love their showers!!
Yeah we are pretty assbackwards here... Lets cool the whole house down when we only use a small portion of it at a time, when we could cut our costs way down by only cooling the room we are using..

Oh I love my on demand hot water heater.. Another great upgrade I have done on my home. Next is a DIY solar array (no way I am paying the 4x markup) so I can save some monies on my electric bill...
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post #118 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 01:50 PM
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Yeah we are pretty assbackwards here... Lets cool the whole house down when we only use a small portion of it at a time, when we could cut our costs way down by only cooling the room we are using..

Oh I love my on demand hot water heater.. Another great upgrade I have done on my home. Next is a DIY solar array (no way I am paying the 4x markup) so I can save some monies on my electric bill...
Yeah, just added a wifi controller to my Rinnai circ tankless. Now we can turn on circ just before we want a shower wash clothes wash dishes need water out of the sink as well as wireless buttons next to all the sinks and washer. My son gets up first and and turns it on from his phone so it's hot when he gets in. Better than a timer! No more complaining from the kids about waiting for hot water or running water down the drain until it is hot!
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post #119 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 03:18 PM
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post #120 of 155 Old 12-03-2019, 09:51 PM - Thread Starter
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No problem!

So latest dilemma... first a bit about me... I’m an optimizer. For me, I tend to obsess over the next step to optimal audio/video nirvana. It drives me nuts knowing there is a better way to do something, particularly a way that will unlock the full potential!

So, knowing that black letter box represents wasted pixels that could be unleashed with an anamorphic lens... wow. I’m going to be twitch in my main listening position. So, go get an a-lens! Not so easy... I have learned that I just BARELY have the throw distance (14’6”, I have 14’4” with present design) for a 140” (2.39:1) screen and the lens will likely require a throw distance of ~15’.

The projector must sit 8” off the rear wall (wife won’t let me use the cabinetry behind). The projector itself is 20” long. So it comes down to my screen wall and how far off the main wall I install it. I had accounted for 12” (which includes the framing - hopefully it can be built w 1 x 2 lumber). That would leave a 10” space for speakers.

My current Totem on wall speakers are 4” deep, so I think I could move the wall back 4”. I’m also thinking of minimally insulating and avoiding the clips and double drywall on three of the 2 x 4 stud bays on the front wall to create large recessed pockets for LCR placement. I figure I can gain back another 3” this way as well. I could also create a similar recessed pocket (would require some framing) at the rear of the projector to gain 3” (one layer of drywall between the cabinetry and the pocket. So a total of 10”... very close.


Or I could simply go with a smaller screen... BAH. Too easy!

Another wrinkle is Id like to build DIY speakers (1099s) and I think they are 12” deep).

What is the rule of thumb related to speaker clearance behind an AT screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Optoma UHD65, Yamaha RX-A2070, 1 Totem Tribe II, 2 x Totem Tribe II, 2 x Totem Tribe I, 2 x SVS PB2000, 2 x SVS Prime Elevations
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