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post #1 of 58 Old 10-11-2019, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Cloverdale Cinema Build

Hello!

I’m in the process of renovating my house and am planning to turn my basement rec room into a dedicated home theatre room. I used an acoustical calculator to figure out the optimal dimensions based on my anticipated ceiling height (8’) and the output was room dimensions of approximately 12’8” x 18’6”. My rec room is about ~13’ wide by ~19’ long - pretty close!

The theatre will be in the basement of a two level house. The kitchen is directly above. Two side walls will be exterior, another shared with a guest room and the fourth shared with a mud room. Everything is gutted at the moment. Ive attached our house layout.

#1. Soundproofing
A key item for me is to incorporate effective sound transfer control mitigation measures into the design. I have 2 subs (SVS PB 2000s) and intend on having 4 sub eventually (want to build two "Martys") - I like deep bass...

Based on my research, the soundproofing plan for the HT room and the adjacent guest room is to use Safe n Sound insulation within the joist bays covered by 5/8” plywood (for anchoring purposes) then resilient channel (type to be determined) holding two layers of 5/8” drywall adhered using green glue. I am also going to install a sound “kill box” in the HVAC runs into the theatre. Only one window (will install a window block). There will be a small room between the main house and the HT room area that will assist with managing sound leakage past the main HT door. Both doord will be fully sealed. Lighting will be via wall sconces. Nothing through the ceiling except the projector outlet and cable throughport (need to think this one through).

Any thoughts on other considerations related to managing sound transfer? Should this be sufficient to hold back most of the bass noise?

#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!

#3 Location of Components

It seems that most HT rooms that I see online have their components outside of the room or at the back. I have had mine at the front, as it seems to make sense for line of sight control, being able to observe active audio codecs, volume etc on the AVR. Also, I have little kids and the low component shelf helps keep dirty hands off of the very expensive fixed projector screen!

Anything I missing here that should compel me to relocate my components to the back? A back corner would take out a logical subwoofer spot. Need to run all my cables now!

Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Trevor
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post #2 of 58 Old 10-12-2019, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
Hello!

I’m in the process of renovating my house and am planning to turn my basement rec room into a dedicated home theatre room. I used an acoustical calculator to figure out the optimal dimensions based on my anticipated ceiling height (8’) and the output was room dimensions of approximately 12’8” x 18’6”. My rec room is about ~13’ wide by ~19’ long - pretty close!

The theatre will be in the basement of a two level house. The kitchen is directly above. Two side walls will be exterior, another shared with a guest room and the fourth shared with a mud room. Everything is gutted at the moment. Ive attached our house layout.

#1. Soundproofing
A key item for me is to incorporate effective sound transfer control mitigation measures into the design. I have 2 subs (SVS PB 2000s) and intend on having 4 sub eventually (want to build two "Martys") - I like deep bass...

Based on my research, the soundproofing plan for the HT room and the adjacent guest room is to use Safe n Sound insulation within the joist bays covered by 5/8” plywood (for anchoring purposes) then resilient channel (type to be determined) holding two layers of 5/8” drywall adhered using green glue. I am also going to install a sound “kill box” in the HVAC runs into the theatre. Only one window (will install a window block). There will be a small room between the main house and the HT room area that will assist with managing sound leakage past the main HT door. Both doord will be fully sealed. Lighting will be via wall sconces. Nothing through the ceiling except the projector outlet and cable throughport (need to think this one through).

Any thoughts on other considerations related to managing sound transfer? Should this be sufficient to hold back most of the bass noise?

#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!

#3 Location of Components

It seems that most HT rooms that I see online have their components outside of the room or at the back. I have had mine at the front, as it seems to make sense for line of sight control, being able to observe active audio codecs, volume etc on the AVR. Also, I have little kids and the low component shelf helps keep dirty hands off of the very expensive fixed projector screen!

Anything I missing here that should compel me to relocate my components to the back? A back corner would take out a logical subwoofer spot. Need to run all my cables now!

Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Trevor

If you put plywood on the joists and clip and channel on the plywood, you're going to create a triple leaf effect, which will degrade the soundproofing performance. If you want plywood, it gets suspended on clip and channel, as the first of two (or if you want three) layers. https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...le-leaf-effect


And you're going to want hat channel, not resilient channel.
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post #3 of 58 Old 10-12-2019, 05:50 AM
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I 've worked on dozens of theater projects and the only time plywood was useful was to hang a heavy coffered ceiling. What is unique about this project? two layers of 5/8 is preffered.
Also I wouldn't put a double door to a guest room/bedroom I'd put the bedroom entrance off the hall. Better sound isolation, better theater acoustics, Maybe you don't plan on using that bedroom as a bedroom but you should consider future resale value. You need to put closets in your floor plan. Also draw out the layout of the theater space to scale showing screen, seating and speaker placement before you commit to the plan. Double doors opening into a theater room can often limit seating configurations.
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post #4 of 58 Old 10-12-2019, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!
5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot


I would pre-wire for 7.2.6 - I have just added a pair of Atmos speakers to make mine a .6 and it has filled in a hole I didn't even know was there. Ths was done by simply daisy chaining a 2nd Atmos AVR via HDMI and using it to power just the 2 Top Middle speakers.

Last edited by niterida; 10-13-2019 at 05:41 PM.
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post #5 of 58 Old 10-13-2019, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I 've worked on dozens of theater projects and the only time plywood was useful was to hang a heavy coffered ceiling. What is unique about this project? two layers of 5/8 is preffered.
Also I wouldn't put a double door to a guest room/bedroom I'd put the bedroom entrance off the hall. Better sound isolation, better theater acoustics, Maybe you don't plan on using that bedroom as a bedroom but you should consider future resale value. You need to put closets in your floor plan. Also draw out the layout of the theater space to scale showing screen, seating and speaker placement before you commit to the plan. Double doors opening into a theater room can often limit seating configurations.

Thanks for all the responses!

Hat channel is the term I was searching for. Thanks!

In terms of plywood, I wanted to build in an anchoring surface for my projector and also for surface mounted (on ceiling) ATMOS speakers. I suppose I can do so in between the joist bays over top of the insulation. Any other suggestions?

The guest room will also be an office and the whole area may be subject to kids playing. I had to be multipurpose to some degree. I am going to reload at the entry way. It could save us a lot of $$ on soundproofing!

I’ll work on my theater layout plan. That’s a good suggestion.

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post #6 of 58 Old 10-13-2019, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterida View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twelton43 View Post
#2 Speaker layout.

I have a Yamaha 2070 w 9 channels. I currently have a 5.2.2 speaker system that could be 7.2.0 (my two ATMOS speakers (SVS Prime Elevations) could be used as rear surrounds).

I can add two more speakers to my system, so in the absence of buying another amp to power a 7.2.4 system (optimal), what do you suggest is better for an immersive surround sound experience, 5.2.4 or 7.2.2?

There are so many different speaker layouts with F or R presence speakers, overheads etc. I’️m in a bit of analysis-paralysis on layout at the moment as it relates to where I run speaker wire. I don’️t want to regret anything once the drywall goes on!
5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]


I would pre-wire for 7.2.6 - I have just added a pair of Atmos speakers to make mine a .6 and it has filled in a hole I didn't even know was there. Ths was done by simply daisy chaining a 2nd Atmos AVR via HDMI and using it to power just the 2 Top Middle speakers.
Thanks for your feedback on speaker layout. Really wrestling with this. I read an article about ATMOS and the actual content on the ATMOS track for the vast majority of movies is actually quite limited. Sounds awesome on demos though! A lot of other content seems to get picked up which does add to the immersive feeling.

I guess what I was wondering is if I will hear more of the movie soundtrack w 7 speaker surround w 2 ATMOS vs 5 surround and 4 ATMOS speakers. Essentially what is my (sound) return on (speaker) investment. I think that makes sense. Your recommendation is pretty emphatic so I’m going to go with that for now!

I’ll work on my layout and post it for comment.

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post #7 of 58 Old 10-13-2019, 05:46 PM
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Thanks for your feedback on speaker layout. Really wrestling with this. I read an article about ATMOS and the actual content on the ATMOS track for the vast majority of movies is actually quite limited. Sounds awesome on demos though! A lot of other content seems to get picked up which does add to the immersive feeling.

I guess what I was wondering is if I will hear more of the movie soundtrack w 7 speaker surround w 2 ATMOS vs 5 surround and 4 ATMOS speakers. Essentially what is my (sound) return on (speaker) investment. I think that makes sense. Your recommendation is pretty emphatic so I’m going to go with that for now!

I’ll work on my layout and post it for comment.
I just edited my previous post :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

Should have read :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

If you search you will find this is the general consensus so definitely a good decision to with x.x.4
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post #8 of 58 Old 10-14-2019, 09:33 AM
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Glad to see another local avs theater going up! Im in Pitt Meadows myself
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post #9 of 58 Old 10-14-2019, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.4 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

Should have read :


5.2.4 is superior to 7.2.2 - the rear surrounds add a tiny bit to the experience but 4 atmos speakers adds a whole lot

If you search you will find this is the general consensus so definitely a good decision to with x.x.4 [IMGclass=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]


Ok that makes sense.

7.4.4 is my goal... one day!

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post #10 of 58 Old 10-14-2019, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Glad to see another local avs theater going up! Im in Pitt Meadows myself

Just up the road! Great to hear there are other enthusiasts in the area. I feel like there are very few people I talk to that have any interest in this hobby!

I’m going to post my layout shortly. Just pulled down a fire place today. Not fun...

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post #11 of 58 Old 10-15-2019, 11:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Attached is a draft version of my room layout. It needs a few adjustments, but in the interest of time, I wanted to post what I have.

A few key points:

My front and rear speakers will likely be mounted about 48” and 55” off the ground respectively. A little higher than ideal, but I need to keep them out reach of little fingers. I found swivel mounts that allow me to adjust the position of the speaker so I can toe in and slightly down. Worked well in my last theatre.

My center channel will be positioned on the leading edge of the component shelf (positioned right under the screen). I suppose I could put the component shelf at the rear of the room, but I need something to act as a barrier to kids putting their popcorn fingers on my screen!

Importantly, I will be using SVS Prime Elevation speakers for the ATMOS arrangement. These speakers are meant to fire on an angle, so I’m trying to figure out the best location and orientation to mount them.
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post #12 of 58 Old 10-16-2019, 02:20 PM
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FWIW your seating looks awfully close to center of the room which tends to be a no no, can put the listeners in a null

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post #13 of 58 Old 10-16-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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FWIW your seating looks awfully close to center of the room which tends to be a no no, can put the listeners in a null
Great point. The sofa should be basically under the projector. I think I am going to get a bigger screen so I will be able to move the projector back anyway (Optoma is fairly quiet, but don't like having it directly overhead!).

I'm also re-thinking my ATMOS speaker layout. I am using the SVS Prime Elevations which fire on an angle regardless of how you mount them. I'm thinking of mounting them on the wall (fore and aft of the sofa) so they down fire around the MLP.
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post #14 of 58 Old 10-20-2019, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Any thoughts on the layout attached above? It’s pretty rough, but hopefully it gets the point across.

To soundproof the cable pass throughs I plan to use a standard junction box (not a low voltage insert) surrounded w putty pads and stuffed w insulation, then a cable outlet face plate. Anyone have any improvements to this?

I am going to run PVC conduit for the projector HDMI cable and will stuff the ends with insulation to help prevent sound transfer.

I’m planning to have my Panomax power conditioner supply power to ALL components, the projector and the subs (currently two). This will require a bunch of wall inlets (as opposed to outlets) behind my components shelf.

No one has commented yet re my question on the location of the component shelf!

I’d really appreciate some comments on this: My room shrunk a bit in length and will now be 18.6’ x 13.6’ x 8’. From my research, the optimal dimensions for a room w an 8’ ceiling are 18.6’ x 12.8’. I really want the space to perform well acoustically. Is my room width being 10” wider going to affect the acoustics significantly?

EDIT: What is the best room dimension calculator? I tried the Amroc Room Mode Calculator and found my dimensions are w/in the Bolt Area. Not sure if I can trust this tool??

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post #15 of 58 Old 10-23-2019, 11:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Feel like I’m talking to myself here. Am I posting in the right section?

I have a lot of questions. And also want to provide value to this community!!
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post #16 of 58 Old 10-24-2019, 06:12 AM
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To soundproof the cable pass throughs I plan to use a standard junction box (not a low voltage insert) surrounded w putty pads and stuffed w insulation, then a cable outlet face plate. Anyone have any improvements to this?

I am going to run PVC conduit for the projector HDMI cable and will stuff the ends with insulation to help prevent sound transfer.

I’m planning to have my Panomax power conditioner supply power to ALL components, the projector and the subs (currently two). This will require a bunch of wall inlets (as opposed to outlets) behind my components shelf.

No one has commented yet re my question on the location of the component shelf!

Yes box with puttly pads, Make sure you use the gray electrical conduit with sweeping curves, not found in the plumbing section.

Make sure you aren't overloading your panomax and starving your amps for peak demands.

Where were you proposing to place your component shelf, best practice is outside the theater, second best is out of sight inside the theater.

As for room size calculators . I've usually felt there were two deadly sins. Having any dimension a multiple or identical to another, placing your listening position in a bass null. Everything else is relatively inconsequential and can be addressed with calibration. I don't see a problem with 10 extra inches.
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post #17 of 58 Old 10-24-2019, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks BIG. Very helpful and timely!

I have been deliberating placement of the AV components quite a bit and need to make a decision quickly (need to wrap up electrical).

I could put the components in the adjacent room, but my wife doesn’t want to give up the space. She really wants the components at the back or front of the theater. Putting them in another room just seems to add a layer of complication that I’m not clear is necessary for me.

If I were to put the components in the adjacent room (on the right side), would I need to ensure that my speaker wire lengths were the same to all matched speakers? It strikes me that having my left front or rear speaker with 20’ more cable could affect the speaker performance(?).

Can you please say more about overloading the Panomax? How would I know if this is the case? I had planned on running all my components (AVR, blueray, projector, cable box and subs) through the Panomax (which would be connected to a dedicated circuit). This is a big part of my wiring scheme at the moment, particularly pulling the projector power back through the Panomax.
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She really wants the components at the back or front of the theater. Putting them in another room just seems to add a layer of complication that I’m not clear is necessary for me.
If you're planning on having 4 subwoofers you're going to need external amps, which means more noise and heat. If you can convince your wife to give up a little extra space to put the rack outside the theater I think she'll be thankful later.

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Any reason why you are not doing an AT screen wall?

Do you really need to design around speakers you already own? I see a lot of people doing this (I did it myself) and it ends up being a huge regret and ends up compromising the design...

Adding pocket doors means that whole wall will not have proper isolation and no room for running wires up and down the wall for speakers/outlets. I would advise you put the door to that room in the hallway as BIG had mentioned earlier.

Another thing I would do is wire the room for 7.x.4 so you can upgrade your receiver in the future or just buy something for the space instead of designing a space for old equipment.

If you would like help with CAD DWG's I can do that for you.


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post #20 of 58 Old 10-24-2019, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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If you're planning on having 4 subwoofers you're going to need external amps, which means more noise and heat. If you can convince your wife to give up a little extra space to put the rack outside the theater I think she'll be thankful later.

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Thanks for this. I just want to confirm the need for external amps... is that related to having too many subwoofers on the Panomax or my previous reference to adding two DYI subs? The two subs I have now are internally amplified, so I don't think they have much draw. I had all the components in my last theater up front and they weren't noisy or overly hot. Still wrestling with the pros/cons of remote AV rack. I've tried to search for threads that talk about it and not much available.


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Any reason why you are not doing an AT screen wall?

Do you really need to design around speakers you already own? I see a lot of people doing this (I did it myself) and it ends up being a huge regret and ends up compromising the design...

Adding pocket doors means that whole wall will not have proper isolation and no room for running wires up and down the wall for speakers/outlets. I would advise you put the door to that room in the hallway as BIG had mentioned earlier.

Another thing I would do is wire the room for 7.x.4 so you can upgrade your receiver in the future or just buy something for the space instead of designing a space for old equipment.

If you would like help with CAD DWG's I can do that for you.


Chris
I like the idea of an AT wall and could do it my speakers are PERFECT for it. My only concern is compromising my audio or video quality. I don't my conventional placement of speakers and am not too caught up in having an authentic theater experience. BUT I like the idea of being able to more optimally place my speakers (behind the screen).

I'm am certainly designing around what I have (as it works well for the moment), but am all ears on what I should do to future proof the space. I do plan on running the wires of 7.X.4. That is a great suggestion.

The pocket doors are already there. They are staying. I was able to get $5k of extra bass proofing and new center channel and a dedicated theater, but doors have to stay. As a result of the doors, we had to sound proof the WHOLE guest room. As does the entry way configuration - stays as planned. I figure I'm still pretty fortunate

Running wires is easy. The whole basement is down to studs. Fortunately the doors are in a location that shouldn't be needed for speaker placement and I'll add an acoustic curtain in front of them and equally over the window on the opposite side.

Pm'd you re drawings!

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post #21 of 58 Old 10-24-2019, 04:56 PM
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Thanks for this. I just want to confirm the need for external amps... is that related to having too many subwoofers on the Panomax or my previous reference to adding two DYI subs? The two subs I have now are internally amplified, so I don't think they have much draw. I had all the components in my last theater up front and they weren't noisy or overly hot. Still wrestling with the pros/cons of remote AV rack. I've tried to search for threads that talk about it and not much available.









I like the idea of an AT wall and could do it my speakers are PERFECT for it. My only concern is compromising my audio or video quality. I don't my conventional placement of speakers and am not too caught up in having an authentic theater experience. BUT I like the idea of being able to more optimally place my speakers (behind the screen).



I'm am certainly designing around what I have (as it works well for the moment), but am all ears on what I should do to future proof the space. I do plan on running the wires of 7.X.4. That is a great suggestion.



The pocket doors are already there. They are staying. I was able to get $5k of extra bass proofing and new center channel and a dedicated theater, but doors have to stay. As a result of the doors, we had to sound proof the WHOLE guest room. As does the entry way configuration - stays as planned. I figure I'm still pretty fortunate



Running wires is easy. The whole basement is down to studs. Fortunately the doors are in a location that shouldn't be needed for speaker placement and I'll add an acoustic curtain in front of them and equally over the window on the opposite side.



Pm'd you re drawings!
Oh I missed the fact that you already have two powered subs. If you're adding more powered subs then no problem, but you did say you want to build two Marty subs. You could add plate amps to those, but external amps such as iNuke are very commonly used.

Kind of a "buy once, cry once" situation. If you think you're going to add external amps later it's probably easier to plan for that now rather than tearing walls down later. Especially since you said you're running a dedicated power line to your components.

Not familiar with the Panomax, sorry.

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post #22 of 58 Old 10-25-2019, 11:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Update:

PreciseD has been kind enough to help me with drawings for the theater (thanks Chris!).

I've also receive a lot of encouragement to get the AV components out of the theater... so, we've decided to put them at the rear right corner of the theater (right behind the entry door). The space behind the rear wall is a mudroom and we are having custom cabinets made for that wall. The plan is to have the front of the media rack accessible/visible to the theater room and the rear accessible from the mud room.

The problem with this plan is the rear wall was going to be fully soundproofed, now there'll be a big hole... here are my soundproofing options that I can think of:
  • Eliminate the rear access. This would require the media rack to roll out into the theater for cable changes/adjustments
  • Soundproof the mudroom.
  • Add
a thick "wall" at the rear that be removed for cable access

I'm also going to need to figure out a ventilation plan... I might intake air from the theater (at the bottom of the rack) and vent to the outside of the house with a low voltage fan. Ideas?

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post #23 of 58 Old 10-26-2019, 05:49 AM
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If I were to put the components in the adjacent room (on the right side), would I need to ensure that my speaker wire lengths were the same to all matched speakers? It strikes me that having my left front or rear speaker with 20’ more cable could affect the speaker performance(?).
The speaker wire lengths needing to be the same is a myth perpetuated by the guys who sell very expensive cables. As long as the cables are correctly sized you shouldn't have problems with the distances you are planning. Long cables can add resistance to wire connection and resistance in series with a speaker acts as a crossover. Just keep them big enough and you won't have a problem. The more important issue is the distance of the speakers to your ears and that is a setting in most HT Receivers. The amplified signal travels at the speed of light in the wire, the speed of sound in air is much less.

Required reading assignment: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire.htm

As for plugging everything into the Panamax, some theaters you can't even plug all the equipment into a single outlet. Too much of a load. If you are pulling in your own circuits add an extra where you plan to stack your gear. This hobby may lead to the point where you have seven 200 watt amps for the mains and four 1000 watt amps for subs, That won't play well with all the other gear on a single circuit.

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post #24 of 58 Old 10-28-2019, 11:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link. Ok, regular 12ga wire it is!

Any recommendations for a media cabinet, or any considerations wrt to selecting and purchasing one? Also, the soundproofing question still stands. Curious how other addressed this issue.
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post #25 of 58 Old 10-29-2019, 12:21 AM
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Nice to see another local enthusiast!
I'm in Burnaby.

Bass is difficult to soundproof against and can get pretty expensive. The goal is really to try to decouple your HT room from the rest of the house as much as possible, add mass, and add dampening. Green glue is an excellent product. Another product commonly used that you haven't mentioned is mass loaded vinyl. Install it on your studs before your double drywall. Also consider using MDF instead of plywood.

As far as the media cabinet, are you looking for a rack or actual millwork? Ventilation is the key to keep your components healthy. I personally use AC Infinity fans when I build media cabinets. If it's enclosed, I like to add a hidden furnace air filter before the intake to eliminate dust being pulled in.


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Thanks for the link. Ok, regular 12ga wire it is!

Any recommendations for a media cabinet, or any considerations wrt to selecting and purchasing one? Also, the soundproofing question still stands. Curious how other addressed this issue.
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post #26 of 58 Old 10-29-2019, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice to see another local enthusiast!
I'm in Burnaby.

Bass is difficult to soundproof against and can get pretty expensive. The goal is really to try to decouple your HT room from the rest of the house as much as possible, add mass, and add dampening. Green glue is an excellent product. Another product commonly used that you haven't mentioned is mass loaded vinyl. Install it on your studs before your double drywall. Also consider using MDF instead of plywood.

As far as the media cabinet, are you looking for a rack or actual millwork? Ventilation is the key to keep your components healthy. I personally use AC Infinity fans when I build media cabinets. If it's enclosed, I like to add a hidden furnace air filter before the intake to eliminate dust being pulled in.
Yes, great to see some other Vancouverites on the Forum!

I think I have a practical perspective on bass proofing. I'm doing the best I can with the $$ I have (double 5/8 drywall on clips and hat channel separated with GG and two layers of 5/8 drywall with GG in the joist bays)

I haven't concluded whether to go w a media rack or millwork in the cabinet. I understand the importance of ventilation, but also trying to figure out how to soundproof that space as it would be recessed into another room that I have not planned on soundproofing!

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post #27 of 58 Old 10-29-2019, 08:16 AM
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Sound proofing the recess isn't difficult, but if you want to have rear access than a custom door would have to be made in the mudroom which adds complexity and cost.

I would do a roll out rack and leave enough cable to allow it to move freely. Then you just treat the recess just like you would the walls.

You should add some front discharge AC Infinity fans to keep your equipment ventilated properly.
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post #28 of 58 Old 11-01-2019, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Sound proofing the recess isn't difficult, but if you want to have rear access than a custom door would have to be made in the mudroom which adds complexity and cost.

I would do a roll out rack and leave enough cable to allow it to move freely. Then you just treat the recess just like you would the walls.

You should add some front discharge AC Infinity fans to keep your equipment ventilated properly.
Yeah, a roll out rack makes the most sense. It would likely be the least complicated option.

My plan would be to keep the front open for ventilation. I suppose I should plan to have a door on it at some point when I start adding noisy amps. In the case of adding a door, if I installed 2 DC intake fans at the bottom and 2 exhaust fans at the top, would this be sufficient? I'd have to figure out how to build the lower fans into the door though. Any one have photos of their media cabinet cooling solutions that would be helpful here?

Also, any media rack solutions/suggestions? I've been looking online and hard to figure out what I need...

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post #29 of 58 Old 11-01-2019, 09:28 AM
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Great point. The sofa should be basically under the projector. I think I am going to get a bigger screen so I will be able to move the projector back anyway (Optoma is fairly quiet, but don't like having it directly overhead!).

I'm also re-thinking my ATMOS speaker layout. I am using the SVS Prime Elevations which fire on an angle regardless of how you mount them. I'm thinking of mounting them on the wall (fore and aft of the sofa) so they down fire around the MLP.
What size screen ? I don't see that. Just curious.

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post #30 of 58 Old 11-01-2019, 10:38 AM
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Yeah, a roll out rack makes the most sense. It would likely be the least complicated option.

My plan would be to keep the front open for ventilation. I suppose I should plan to have a door on it at some point when I start adding noisy amps. In the case of adding a door, if I installed 2 DC intake fans at the bottom and 2 exhaust fans at the top, would this be sufficient? I'd have to figure out how to build the lower fans into the door though. Any one have photos of their media cabinet cooling solutions that would be helpful here?

Also, any media rack solutions/suggestions? I've been looking online and hard to figure out what I need...
I saw this at Cedia and it looked really nice. http://crimsonav.com/rc18u.html

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