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post #31 of 122 Old 10-28-2019, 01:55 PM
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If you are planning sound isolation building practices you should build the soffit after the room is drywalled. That preserves the drywall bunker shell. Inside the soffit becomes a wonderful place to put perimeter wall wash recessed down lights without the need for backer boxes, run speaker wires around the room, run HVAC duct work laterally and use the cavity inside the soffit as a duct muffler. I've done all three in a single room.
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post #32 of 122 Old 10-29-2019, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I met with my home builder after work yesterday and we agreed on a bare minimum of work he has to do in order to pass inspection. That work being insulating the exterior walls and adding a door between the basement rooms, which is what I wanted anyway. I asked him to also add some dedicated circuits for my AV rack location, front stage, and rear of the room for future lights. If I tell him to do no further work than that he will reduce the selling price of the house appropriately, which is awesome.

The next piece I'd want to address at this time is HVAC. Currently there are 2 supply runs going into the HT room. The return is in the adjacent room because of the large opening between the rooms. Now that we're closing off the rooms from each other there is no return currently in the HT room. I've seen the idea of a dead vent system. My basement has an HVAC zone all to itself, no ducts run upstairs. If I didn't do the dead vent system, am I defeating the purpose of all the other soundproofing I'll be doing?
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post #33 of 122 Old 10-29-2019, 09:12 AM
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A dedicated sealed theater room needs both supplies and returns. With duct mufflers, sound attenuation duct work and perhaps a dead vent you can satisfy your sound isolaton goals. But you can't just have a big hole in the wall. The alternative is a totally separate HVAC system for the theater space that does not share any duct work with other rooms. Like a Mini-split.
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post #34 of 122 Old 10-29-2019, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Just got off the phone with Ted over at Sound Proofing Company and he suggested the mini split idea as well. This sounds a whole lot easier than the dead vent way. I think that's what I'll do for heating/cooling.

I'm starting to feel better and more confident about this future project as I read other people's build threads and talk with knowledgeable people. A big thank you to you BIG for all your extremely helpful and timely advice.
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post #35 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Some things I'm figuring out/working through:

-Ted from Sound Proofing Company suggested I build a wall to hide the stairwell protrusion and make the room more uniform since I have 21' of width to start off with. Then I would have a double door system with an air gap for even better sound isolation, at least on that wall.

-I am getting a quote from my home builder for how much it will cost to move the double doors at the rear of the room to the adjacent room. This will solve a lot of issues I've been having to work around. I may go back to building a riser for more seating again if there are no restrictions to the rear of the room.
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post #36 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 11:43 AM
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Just more food for thought or hit to the checkbook. The gold standard of mini-splits is a ducted mini split where the air handler and fan noise is kept outside the theater space. You then connect it to the theater with sound attenuating duct work. Available space to put it may be an issue. With a sealed room mini split set up you do need to consider CO2 build up. If you have a party and keep the door closed the CO2 will probably rise to an uncomfortable level. Opening and closing the door with people coming and going may resolve the issue. If you just pop into that huge space after work to watch something it won't be an issue. Smaller rooms with several family members benefit from blowing some fresh air into the room or selecting a mini split that has a fresh air provision. Dead vents have also been used for this purpose.
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post #37 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 04:36 PM
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post #38 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 05:55 PM
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How tall is the room and how much height is there under the landing?
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post #39 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
How tall is the room and how much height is there under the landing?
9' ceilings. I haven't measured the height under the stair landing but judging by the photo maybe a bit over 6'?

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post #40 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 06:51 PM
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good place for your equipment rack
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post #41 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
good place for your equipment rack
Yes that's where I plan to have the rack located in the adjacent room, underneath the stair landing.
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post #42 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 07:03 PM
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I'll just throw these out there....

Not really on point to what you want, with a more social space. Both do mirror Ted's "narrow the room slightly" suggestion though.

I also wondered about the entrance under the angled stair wall, and entering at the front of the room. I do like the JBL demo room and it's use of the shadow box front, to hide the entry door while pushing contrast and then allowing for a more relaxed fabric panel wall theme.
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post #43 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 07:17 PM
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I wonder about a piece of steel over the door header, and the landing could be attached to that. The av rack could be under the stair wall.
Create a bit of an small entry.
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post #44 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I wonder about a piece of steel over the door header, and the landing could be attached to that. The av rack could be under the stair wall.
Create a bit of an small entry.
The main issue for me with an entryway there is that it would be right in the way of a column or other decorative wall piece right near the front of the room.
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post #45 of 122 Old 10-30-2019, 08:08 PM
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A column could hide that angle in that case...

I wouldn't put a column so close to the screen wall, but if I did, I would be very selective about it's finishes if up there.

I myself like the idea of hiding the entry door up front, as part of a shadow-box front area, to preserve the dynamic range of a projector. The JB demo room is actually a high performance cutting edge ATMOS room. It's a little simplistic in it's fabric panel walls, and some blackened door hardware would be another thing I would change.

There is a lot of variety of home theater styles beyond the column/wainscot/soffits theme, but the internet seems to bombard us with those. Much of what I would do, and where the entry would be, would be based on the style of the room and also be about the layout of the room before the theater.

It is a great space, with but a minor intrusion. It kind of comes down where the money is best spent and the desired looks.
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post #46 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
A column could hide that angle in that case...

I wouldn't put a column so close to the screen wall, but if I did, I would be very selective about it's finishes if up there.

I myself like the idea of hiding the entry door up front, as part of a shadow-box front area, to preserve the dynamic range of a projector. The JB demo room is actually a high performance cutting edge ATMOS room. It's a little simplistic in it's fabric panel walls, and some blackened door hardware would be another thing I would change.

There is a lot of variety of home theater styles beyond the column/wainscot/soffits theme, but the internet seems to bombard us with those. Much of what I would do, and where the entry would be, would be based on the style of the room and also be about the layout of the room before the theater.

It is a great space, with but a minor intrusion. It kind of comes down where the money is best spent and the desired looks.
Another consideration with my room is that the only front of room entryway is underneath the stair landing. That means ducking down to enter the room every time, not to mention a smaller entry for moving large items into the room, furniture pieces/etc.

I can appreciate how JBL incorporated this into their room but I can't see it working very well in my case.
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post #47 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 06:48 AM
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Another consideration with my room is that the only front of room entryway is underneath the stair landing. That means ducking down to enter the room every time,

That's a bad head bump waiting to happen.
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post #48 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 07:49 AM
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Walk-Out Basement AT Screen Theater Build

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A bench with bar stools behind the one row of seating did it for me


Ditto for me. I did a very large couch - and had a raised table/bench made behind. And bean bags for kids in front. Created tiered seating without having actual tiers in the room (saving ceiling height). Couple pics below (second pic was old couch I replaced).


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post #49 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Ditto for me. I did a very large couch - and had a raised table/bench made behind. And bean bags for kids in front. Created tiered seating without having actual tiers in the room (saving ceiling height). Couple pics below (second pic was old couch I replaced).


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Very classy looking room gwthacker! I like the countertop setup you have. Since I'm now relocating the double door to the adjacent room I'm not limited by my seating options. I'm not sure what I want to do yet.
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post #50 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 10:32 AM
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@gwthacker


I love your room, color scheme, panel style, overall feel. I think you said you had the bar made. Do you recall where? And what about the bar stools?
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post #51 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 11:10 AM
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@gwthacker


I love your room, color scheme, panel style, overall feel. I think you said you had the bar made. Do you recall where? And what about the bar stools?
Here's the company that made the bar table. They did an amazing job

Wes Vittitoe
Project Manager
Bluegrass Ornamental Iron, Inc.
www.bluegrassornamentaliron.com
[email protected]
Office: 502-261-6647

On the bar stools, I'm not sure- my wife ordered from interior decorator. I may replace them because I'm probably going to have the bar table cut down ~5 inches because it's somewhat blocking the surround channels.
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post #52 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Current layout plan. Added wall to left side to hide stairwell protrusion. The protrusion wasn't drawn to scale so I fixed it, the corner stuck out 21" from the wall. 2nd row of seats will be on a riser. AT screen will be on a stage.


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post #53 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 11:43 AM
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A couple of comments/questions:


(1) That is a very nice large space


(2) That front row will be very "immersive" sitting less than a screen width away


(3) Does the PJ you have selected have the lumens output to properly light up a 150" wide screen?


(4) If you are going to use a couch vs chairs in your front row, this means nothing. But if you are going to use seats, at least consider having a "sweet spot" so that there is one seat dead center in the room


(5) Given the cubic footage of your room, and if you have any desire for "tactile" LFE output, you will need lots of woofage! If you are able to make it to my home, I can demonstrate what I am talking about.


I'm sure you must be excited about this project. Enjoy the journey !
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post #54 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
A couple of comments/questions:


(1) That is a very nice large space


(2) That front row will be very "immersive" sitting less than a screen width away
The front edge of the front row is 11' away, when you sit back and recline the seat your eyes will be past 12' away.

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(3) Does the PJ you have selected have the lumens output to properly light up a 150" wide screen?
The Epson 5050 or 6050 is pretty bright. According to projectorcentral's calculator it should be more than enough.

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(4) If you are going to use a couch vs chairs in your front row, this means nothing. But if you are going to use seats, at least consider having a "sweet spot" so that there is one seat dead center in the room
Good point, I could do a front row of either 3 or 5 seats then.

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(5) Given the cubic footage of your room, and if you have any desire for "tactile" LFE output, you will need lots of woofage! If you are able to make it to my home, I can demonstrate what I am talking about.
The one item I've purchased already (pre-ordered) are the PSA V3612's, two of them. They are vented dual 18" subs, 1920W RMS, 4300W peak. I'm thinking they should do the job.


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I'm sure you must be excited about this project. Enjoy the journey !
Absolutely!
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post #55 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wong View Post
The front edge of the front row is 11' away, when you sit back and recline the seat your eyes will be past 12' away.
Excellent

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The Epson 5050 or 6050 is pretty bright. According to projector central's calculator it should be more than enough.
Good

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Good point, I could do a front row of either 3 or 5 seats then.
You'll be glad you did that.

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The one item I've purchased already (pre-ordered) are the PSA V3612's, two of them. They are vented dual 18" subs, 1920W RMS, 4300W peak. I'm thinking they should do the job.
Great sub choice. You have about 4700cf. And while the output and extension should be excellent, I will be more than surprised if you get a bunch of tactile response - particularly in a basement. It's all about displacement. As a comparison, you have about 40% more cf than I do but I am using twice as many subs. (Inexpensive) Recommendation: when you build out the room, make places and wire for two more of those subs. You can thank me later. If you build places in each of the four corners, you could place the original two in diagonal corners. When I got my first Seaton Subs 10 years ago, I bought two (SubMersives) and placed them in diagonal corners. Within a few months, ordered two more.

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post #56 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 01:56 PM
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Good point, I could do a front row of either 3 or 5 seats then.



With the width you have you should be able to go with 5 seats in a row.

Klipsch KPS-400’s FR/FL with built in 15” 300 watt side firing subs, RC-7 Center, RS-3 Surrounds.
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post #57 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I received a quote from my home builder that to add a ducted mini split would cost $6030. A ductless mini split would run $3975. These prices reflect install and electrical. Seems a bit much no?
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post #58 of 122 Old 10-31-2019, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
That's a bad head bump waiting to happen.

Only if you simply accepted the framing as is.... There is the potential to add more support framing and some steel to support and allow the depth of the landing framing to be cut down. I
bet I could create enough height there to come within 3-4" of height of the large opening and do so, in a very cost effective manner.
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post #59 of 122 Old 11-01-2019, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Only if you simply accepted the framing as is.... There is the potential to add more support framing and some steel to support and allow the depth of the landing framing to be cut down. I
bet I could create enough height there to come within 3-4" of height of the large opening and do so, in a very cost effective manner.
You're pushing so hard for this front of room entryway. Sorry but it ain't happening. I'm putting my AV rack in that space instead.
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post #60 of 122 Old 11-01-2019, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
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I received a quote from my home builder that to add a ducted mini split would cost $6030. A ductless mini split would run $3975. These prices reflect install and electrical. Seems a bit much no?
I had a ductless mini-Split put in my equipment room. $2300 installed. And while the unit you would use would need to be larger, that does seem "a bit much". My guess would be that the quoted price has a profit for the HVAC company AND your builder.
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