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post #61 of 122 Old 11-01-2019, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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I received a quote from my home builder that to add a ducted mini split would cost $6030. A ductless mini split would run $3975. These prices reflect install and electrical. Seems a bit much no?
I know of at least one person on here has use MR Cool Mini split in his theater. The lines come pre charged and looks to be a straight DIY set up. I have thought of using this as well, but a three zone system for the theater and two other rooms in my basement I want to finish. You might give them a call and see what they can do for you.



https://iwae.com/promo/mrcool-diy/?g...MaAlWoEALw_wcB

Klipsch KPS-400’s FR/FL with built in 15” 300 watt side firing subs, RC-7 Center, RS-3 Surrounds.
Integra DHC-60.5, 5- Marantz MA700 Mono Blocks, Pioneer DV-F727 301 Disk DVD CD Changer, Pioneer DVL-909 Laserdisc/DVD/CD Player, Sony PS3.
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post #62 of 122 Old 11-01-2019, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I know of at least one person on here has use MR Cool Mini split in his theater. The lines come pre charged and looks to be a straight DIY set up. I have thought of using this as well, but a three zone system for the theater and two other rooms in my basement I want to finish. You might give them a call and see what they can do for you.



https://iwae.com/promo/mrcool-diy/?g...MaAlWoEALw_wcB
That price point is certainly way more attractive to me. I have to think about how to sound proof the 3" hole I'd be cutting into the finished double drywall layer.
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post #63 of 122 Old 11-01-2019, 06:47 PM
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My home builder had a simple pricing formula for custom add ons. Take the sub contractors quote and double it. I took possession of my house and hired the sub he used to erect a massive stacked stone fireplace. 1/2 price.
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post #64 of 122 Old 11-02-2019, 04:27 AM
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You're pushing so hard for this front of room entryway. Sorry but it ain't happening. I'm putting my AV rack in that space instead.

Actually, I was wondering if that might work well with a 180 degree room flip spatially. gwthacker's room was an example I was thinking of, since you are open to slightly narrowing
the room, and moving the French door. That seating layout would provide a tight seating footprint and the ability to slightly shift the room depth-wise in the space. And maybe there's room
to have short and straight run to the door and host the av rack there, right outside the room?

Now if being able to create a 7' ceiling height under the landing, that might simply emphasize the height of the theater, and plant the door where it's kind of out of the way and might make life easier
with laying out furniture in the middle room.

A door could pretty much go anywhere in the side wall, but planting it in the obvious easy to use large opening, might be problematic with acoustical treatments. That closet area is also a rather
obvious av rack location, but if you are exposing the rack to the theater, is that also either a bunch of electronic displays in your peripheral vision, or a reflective cover?
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post #65 of 122 Old 11-02-2019, 05:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Actually, I was wondering if that might work well with a 180 degree room flip spatially. gwthacker's room was an example I was thinking of, since you are open to slightly narrowing
the room, and moving the French door. That seating layout would provide a tight seating footprint and the ability to slightly shift the room depth-wise in the space.

A door could pretty much go anywhere in the side wall, but planting it in the obvious easy to use large opening, might be problematic with acoustical treatments. That closet area is also a rather
obvious av rack location, but if you are exposing the rack to the theater, is that also either a bunch of electronic displays in your peripheral vision, or a reflective cover?
The plan is to have the AV rack facing outward into the middle room, not the theater room.
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post #66 of 122 Old 11-02-2019, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there a preference for faced vs unfaced insulation for my walls and ceiling? Some of my walls are up against concrete, some are not. Also fiberglass vs rockwool, is there a major difference as far as sound absorption?
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post #67 of 122 Old 11-02-2019, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
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Is there a preference for faced vs unfaced insulation for my walls and ceiling? Some of my walls are up against concrete, some are not. Also fiberglass vs rockwool, is there a major difference as far as sound absorption?
If its inside of your vapor barrier and you use faced just be sure you cut slits in the paper after its up. I used all of them in my build. For the walls faced was easier to install, once stapled up I just put a bunch of slits in the paper to make sure I didn't create a second vapor barrier. In the ceiling I used mostly pink fluffy. where the walls met the ceiling since I did room inside a room by code I needed a fire block so I used Roxul safe n sound there becuase its fireproof. While Rockwool/Roxul is a tiny bit from a soundproofing perspective most feel its not worth the extra expense from what I have read.
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post #68 of 122 Old 11-03-2019, 06:58 AM
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The theater itself would be rather simple to build, but if one embraced freeing up some headroom under the stair landing, that could be a rather hard working entry space.

One idea of a visit to The Savoy I rather liked, was it's double door entry where a person could leave and re-enter the room without the usual splash of lighting from
the exterior space. It wasn't an idea I really thought much about, until I used it. Then I realised just how impressive this feature was.

It's certainly a little off the beaten track, but I also think it could be a rather unique and hardworking space put to work, that also could free up the area between the walls,
which could be put to work as a media niche, and/or closet(s).

I expect you would need to get seven feet of height under the stair to meet building code, which might be possible with some steel supporting the landing, to allow cutting
down the height of the deep wood framing there now. The other issue with a room flip is you might need a secondary egress.
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post #69 of 122 Old 11-03-2019, 07:48 AM
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That is an AT screen there, taking advantage of the room volume, not a wall as it appears... The panel in front of a built in media rack, is a swinging door for the theater.

I think there's space to squeeze in both, and still allow for at least three feet of width for the entry.
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post #70 of 122 Old 11-05-2019, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Having had the pleasure of visiting with @audioguy this past weekend I have several takeaways and we came up with some great ideas.

New location for the AV Rack. Here is a good use of the dead space I'm creating by adding the extra wall to hide the stairwell protrusion. I still have plenty of width leftover in the room. The HVAC contractor will add a small supply to that space for cooling and a return vent to the middle room to get the air moving.


I also decided to spend more(read as nearly all ) of the budget on getting the JVC RS2000. I'm going to take the approach of getting high quality items slowly over time. I'd rather do this then settle for cheaper items just to have them all at once.

Chuck also convinced me that I will need more than 2 subs. So I plan to run cables, power, and leave space for future subs when I can afford them.
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post #71 of 122 Old 11-05-2019, 11:29 AM
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not sure I would throw away 81 sq ft of your house (3x27) to find a spot for your equipment rack, I liked the space under the stairs with the equipment facing the other room.
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post #72 of 122 Old 11-05-2019, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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not sure I would throw away 81 sq ft of your house (3x27) to find a spot for your equipment rack, I liked the space under the stairs with the equipment facing the other room.
It's not just for the AV rack, it's room shape uniformity, less to sound proof, double door system, and I have the room width to spare. Even losing the sqft it's still a large room IMO. For the rear corner of the room I can build an alcove for one of my subs to reclaim that floor space so it's not all wasted. Same thing with the front corner along that wall. But I'll have to see what the acoustic treatment plan calls for, whether it'd be more beneficial to have them in alcoves or fully inside the squared off drywall bubble.
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post #73 of 122 Old 11-05-2019, 04:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Glass french doors have been relocated to the adjacent room.

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post #74 of 122 Old 11-05-2019, 06:01 PM
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post #75 of 122 Old 11-06-2019, 09:20 PM
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Ever consider embracing the angled section of stairs, and not shrink the room's volume? You got the great space, why not flaunt it?

You'd have a symmetrical space and room to do some interesting fabric panels and one could do a simple and rather plain front and back wall.
The window will still leak sound but you could do a simple sliding panel, to hide it yet still have access to the window and secondary egress. The
space behind the fabric panels could host acoustical treatments. And you could do in-fill subs if so desired.


That front beam could hide some screen wash track lighting and you could do soffits or skip them, and really emphasis the space and room volume.

BTW, there is no sound proofing with that large pane of glass. (assuming the door is carefully constructed, has some mass and gaskets and sill gasket.) It
will undermine all that you do, and it will be your weak link in sound isolation. Further, that large window is an audio liability and will act as a low pass filter.
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post #76 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ever consider embracing the angled section of stairs, and not shrink the room's volume? You got the great space, why not flaunt it?

You'd have a symmetrical space and room to do some interesting fabric panels and one could do a simple and rather plain front and back wall.
The window will still leak sound but you could do a simple sliding panel, to hide it yet still have access to the window and secondary egress. The
space behind the fabric panels could host acoustical treatments. And you could do in-fill subs if so desired.


That front beam could hide some screen wash track lighting and you could do soffits or skip them, and really emphasis the space and room volume.

BTW, there is no sound proofing with that large pane of glass. (assuming the door is carefully constructed, has some mass and gaskets and sill gasket.) It
will undermine all that you do, and it will be your weak link in sound isolation. Further, that large window is an audio liability and will act as a low pass filter.
With regards to the window, I was thinking I would build over it. Install cheap blinds first and then seal it off.

That's an interesting design to hide the stairwell protrusion and not take away as much sqft. I actually really like this design.

If I'm planning on eventually having 4 subs, 1 in each corner, the door there would be a problem. I don't know enough about sub placement though to work around a door being in that corner.
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post #77 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 06:33 AM
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And a great way to hide the acoustic treatment with fabric panels.














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post #78 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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And a great way to hide the acoustic treatment with fabric panels.

The sub in the upper left corner blocks the doorway in this configuration. With the walls being built out symmetrically like this I don't know where to put a door.
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post #79 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 07:24 AM
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The sub in the upper left corner blocks the doorway in this configuration. With the walls being built out symmetrically like this I don't know where to put a door.

OR .... slide the sub a bit to the right .... or don't put a sub in that corner and stack it on top of the one in the other corner. As you may recall, I don't have a sub in the rear corner where the door to the rest of the upstairs is - and, as you heard, not compromise in the sound. Perfect? No, but it can still work
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post #80 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 10:21 AM
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I was thinking a pair of Martys up front, behind the AT wall. www.gsgad.com has cabinetry kits and I believe still offer cheaper shipping with a skid or four cabinets.
Split a skid with someone, and you have some serious bass.

Two, or even four 12" in fill subs in tall narrow cabinets could reside in-fill 12" in-fill subs behind the side wall fabrics. This thinking is more aimed at substantial performance
results, and no real need to have any sub cabinetry, that is other then a simple flat black finish as none of them would be seen. Basically you'd visually scrub all the LFE speakers
from the room, and create a bass system that could punch well above it's dollar expenditure.


You could host the door on the mid side wall, but I do like the door near the ends of the room, for three reasons. It's not in the way of any potential acoustical treatments.
The door could be hosted as part of the fabric wall pattern, but I could eliminate any complexity that would create. And lastly, I would now have a longer, more centrally located
uninterrupted wall space in the room outside the theater.

The big negative there for me, is the av rack isn't coupled with the entry area. (But not really an issue with a htpc and server?)
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post #81 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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The stairwell protrusion sticks out 21" from the wall. If I built out a frame to attach acoustic treatment panels to, that would create a large hollow cavity between the wall and the back of the panels. Or are you saying the drywall shell is built with these symmetric walls in mind?

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post #82 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 11:16 AM
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I would play with exposing more of the "tip" of the angle, and host fabric panels sitting back of the point.

And then I might frame the very ends of the room inwards. All that would let me fine tune the look to what
I think would be the most interesting.

You could wall wash the fabric panels with lighting from above, as one zone of a lighting controller. That sort of
thing can help create some entry of the room drama.
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post #83 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 12:14 PM
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As for whether those are part of the room or not, I would base how I used/ didn't use those angles, on whether you plan to use clips or simply drywall to the studs.

Those cavities could be filled with insulation, or some of them might simply get put tom work as cabinet volume for some smaller subs.
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post #84 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 12:20 PM
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one vote this but with the exterior door gone, flip the orientation of the room 180 degrees, enter where it says AV at ground level. Put the AV gear under the stairs facing the outer room.



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post #85 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 01:13 PM
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A bunch of ideas thrown together.....


I've also seen a rather interesting av rack that was under the stairs. A series of all tempered smoked glass doors that followed the angle of the stairs.

I kind of like the idea of some nice wood or nice veneer for those angles, if one choose to expose more of the "column".
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post #86 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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one vote this but with the exterior door gone, flip the orientation of the room 180 degrees, enter where it says AV at ground level. Put the AV gear under the stairs facing the outer room.



Flipping it 180 seems to work well, solving a lot of issues. Also the projector would be mounted underneath an area of the house with way less foot traffic.
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post #87 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 06:33 PM
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you could fit angled fabric false walls in the two back corners stuffed with insulation to hide the imperfection of the back corner and act as bass absorbers.
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post #88 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 06:57 PM
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You could also do a simple acoustically transparent back wall, or simple columns in the rear corners, to hide the wee bit of non-symmetry.

I have no idea about how the beam will impact on the ATMOS overhead speakers.
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post #89 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Good point about the beam interfering with Atmos speakers. Here's how that would look. I plan to wire for .6 ceiling channels. Placing speakers to optimize the front row, only the rear 2 atmos heights would be behind the beam, over the rear row.

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post #90 of 122 Old 11-07-2019, 08:30 PM
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I don't know how low the beam hangs down but make sure it does not block the output of the rear heights. If it does, just mount the rear heights in some kind of attractive enclosure that will hang down and allow those rear heights to see the MLP!
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