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-   -   Walk-Out Basement AT Screen Theater Build (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3097380-walk-out-basement-screen-theater-build.html)

David Wong 10-20-2019 06:49 PM

Walk-Out Basement AT Screen Theater Build
 
7 Attachment(s)
Hello all home theater enthusiasts! I'm excited to share my build with y'all and bounce ideas and get some quality feedback. First I'll tell you a little about my experience with home theater. For the past 9 years my HT consisted of: SI 92" 1.4 gain 2.35:1 Black Diamond screen, Panasonic ae4000 1080p projector, Onkyo TX-SR876 AVR, 5 Polk Audio speakers that totaled $600, 1 Epik Empire sub. It's served me well and I'm grateful for it. I'm now in the process of having a new house built and will have the opportunity to start from scratch on a new HT. I'm bundling my previous HT equipment with the sale of our current house, a friend suggested I do this as an incentive to sell the house and it gives me a reason to upgrade and start fresh. On to the new house and HT!

The HT room will be in one part of our walk-out basement which measures 26'10" x 21' x 9', the room on the far right of the 1st floor plan photo.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1574866709

Proposed Equipment List
Screen: Seymour XD DIY ~150" wide 2.35
AVR: Marantz SR6013
Amp: Outlaw Audio Model 7000
Bluray: TBD
Speakers: TBD but leaning towards Triad Gold Monitors for LCR to start

Purchased Already
Subs: 2x PSA V3612 - pre-ordered
Projector: JVC RS2000 & Paladin DCR

Acoustic Plan Design: Nyal @ Acoustic Frontiers

Design Notes:
I will wire for 9.4.6 and get speakers as I can afford them to build up to it eventually.
After the DD GG shell is created I plan on doing soffits for running cable and putting lights.
There will be a riser and a stage built.
Undecided on color theme or overall look.
Considering Night Sky Murals for the middle ceiling, this depends on what acoustic treatments are called for however.

11/5/19 Update:
Opening between rooms has been built up, just need to add a door now. The glass french doors at the rear of the room have been moved to the adjacent room as well. Electricians just have to install 4 home runs to the room now as per my request. HVAC contractor will be installing a return in the room as well since there are already 2 supply lines. The basement has its own HVAC zone. After these installations there's nothing else I can have done in the room. I have to wait until we close on the house before I finally begin building my room. My best estimate would put that somewhere in January or February 2020....

David Wong 10-21-2019 04:32 AM

LOL no. I don't know why the photos are upside down. They aren't that way on my PC. I might have to turn them upside down on my end before uploading so they appear upright here.

Tedd 10-21-2019 04:34 AM

Some random thoughts:

That large opening is a missing chunk of reflective side wall, come acoustical treatment time.

Why not plant the av rack under the stairs, right outside the room?

You want to absorb the small amount of energy that comes off the backside of the AT screen. And ideally treat the first reflection points to the main row of seating.

I'd be tempted to mirror the stair intrusion on the other wall (and use both those angles as a design element) along with some of the space up behind the beam, for HVAC
up front. That beam could also hide screen wash lighting. You also could host some bass trapping up front in the corners, and it could be rather focused. I'd also
consider giving a wee bit more room depth to the front AT space. More wiggle space to plant the subs and keep them back of the mains.

You do want the front AT wall to be strong, and as spatially open as possible, yet not have it resonant. You ideally don't want those sub drivers blowing onto the
fabric or AT screen, and have them treat it like a filter, or have the subs working to ripple the screen.

David Wong 10-21-2019 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedd (Post 58711134)
Some random thoughts:

That large opening is a missing chunk of reflective side wall, come acoustical treatment time.

Why not plant the av rack under the stairs, right outside the room?

You want to absorb the small amount of energy that comes off the backside of the AT screen. And ideally treat the first reflection points to the main row of seating.

I'd be tempted to mirror the stair intrusion on the other wall (and use both those angles as a design element) along with some of the space up behind the beam, for HVAC
up front. That beam could also hide screen wash lighting. You also could host some bass trapping up front in the corners, and it could be rather focused. I'd also
consider giving a wee bit more room depth to the front AT space. More wiggle space to plant the subs and keep them back of the mains.

You do want the front AT wall to be strong, and as spatially open as possible, yet not have it resonant. You ideally don't want those sub drivers blowing onto the
fabric or AT screen, and have them treat it like a filter, or have the subs working to ripple the screen.

I'll have to look into that alternate AV rack location, it does seem like a good option though.

I also like the idea of mirroring the angled wall for both acoustic symmetry and aesthetic reasons. Thank you for your thoughts!

David Wong 10-21-2019 05:13 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Trying to re-upload the photos right side up this time.

BIGmouthinDC 10-21-2019 05:15 AM

If you treat the entire front wall behind the AT screen with absorbtion (my preference) there is no acoustic reason to make an equal angled wall on the right side of the theater. It will be out of sight.

David Wong 10-24-2019 04:51 AM

Initially I wasn't planning on doing a room within a room with clips and and hat channels. As I started reading more build threads here I have some questions.

1. My room is in the basement and in the corner of the house. If I only installed clips/hat channels on the ceiling and interior wall, would that work? Or to be effective you need to do every wall even if 2 walls are exterior walls?

2. I'm considering closing off the side wall opening and moving the door towards the back corner. This way I can optimally place speakers for a 7.2.4 configuration. However I do kind of like the side wall opening where it is, I can add some narrow double doors later. If I kept the doorway where it is currently, any ideas for speaker placement for 7.2.4? The doorway is exactly where your side surround channel would go.

BIGmouthinDC 10-24-2019 06:28 AM

Unfortunately sound waves travel like ripples in a pond not just in a straight line. Your exterior walls will do an excellent job of channeling sound up to the joist space then the rooms above. You need to think in terms of building a fully enclosed containment vessel. Ceiling, walls and floor. Any hole you cut needs to be addressed.

As for door placement you really need to draw a scaled floor plan showing your seating positions, If you expect multiple rows you need to elevate the rear seating and that seating riser position should be considered relative to the entry and walkways. Put your seating drawn to scale on your room diagram, the speaker positions and door placement decisions will follow.

If you are doing a single row space with intimate seating I would have picked the smaller space on the opposite end of the basement.

BIGmouthinDC 10-24-2019 04:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This would fit my lifestyle. A windowless soundproofed intimate cinema screening room with an AT screen and superior sound. Outside the theater a pub/cafe with walk out doors to the backyard. Maybe a flat panel TV mirroring what is on the screen in cinema. An acoustically transparent screen wall hiding all the problem wall areas. The door to the pub would be as wide as possible, move the existing framing, it is a load bearing wall so you would need temp supports as you move that header.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1571956407

David Wong 10-24-2019 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 58728356)
This would fit my lifestyle. A windowless soundproofed intimate cinema screening room with an AT screen and superior sound. Outside the theater a pub/cafe with walk out doors to the backyard. Maybe a flat panel TV mirroring what is on the screen in cinema. An acoustically transparent screen wall hiding all the problem wall areas. The door to the pub would be as wide as possible, move the existing framing, it is a load bearing wall so you would need temp supports as you move that header.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1571956407

That is an interesting take on the space, I never would have come up with that on my own. I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.

I also had a question on how to decouple the floor. I haven't come across any descriptions or plans on how to do it.

BIGmouthinDC 10-24-2019 06:40 PM

you float a new plywood/OSB subfloor on 1/2 inch rubber mat. There are other methods and products this is just the one I've done on a few designs.

BIGmouthinDC 10-24-2019 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wong (Post 58728846)
however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.

Make a mental note to get back to me in 5 years and tell me how often you used both rows, unless you have more than 4 in your immediate family.

niterida 10-24-2019 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wong (Post 58728846)
I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.

A bench with bar stools behind the one row of seating did it for me :)

David Wong 10-24-2019 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 58728908)
you float a new plywood/OSB subfloor on 1/2 inch rubber mat. There are other methods and products this is just the one I've done on a few designs.

Any recommendations or links for a rubber mat? Are there special kinds designed for this?

BIGmouthinDC 10-24-2019 09:27 PM

one commercial product I've used: https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...a-mat-underlay

You can also use Horse Stall Mats from Tractor Supply to save a little per sq ft.

David Wong 10-25-2019 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 58729482)
one commercial product I've used: https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...a-mat-underlay

You can also use Horse Stall Mats from Tractor Supply to save a little per sq ft.

I actually have about 14 horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Co(3/4" 4'x6') in my garage right now that we use as gym flooring. The rubber smell hasn't gone away even after almost 2 years. Any issues with the rubber smell after putting the subfloor and carpeting on it?

BIGmouthinDC 10-25-2019 06:13 AM

There haven't been any reported problems, yet.

David Wong 10-25-2019 03:16 PM

Part of the signed contract with my home builder is for him to finish the HT room normally. By this I mean 1/2" drywall on all walls/ceiling, LVT flooring, HVAC, electrical and 6 ceiling lights. Now that I've resolved myself to do a proper build and no finishing work has begun yet on the room I am wondering about telling him to not do anything except maybe run the electrical. HVAC is already installed.

Since the LVT flooring is already paid for, would you have it installed and then put your rubber mat - plywood - carpet on top of that? Or no LVT and leave the concrete slab as is? Basically I'm asking which way would yield better results?

If my builder agrees to leave it largely unfinished I'm willing to put in the time, with help, to build it right.

BIGmouthinDC 10-25-2019 03:30 PM

depends what the local building inspector and your bank (if you are using a mortgage) says about leaving a room semi finished, It would save the mess of any demo required. No harm in getting the LVT tile. In hindsight you could have negotiated a respectable discount on the original contract to skip finishing the room.

Tedd 10-26-2019 06:59 AM

You might see if they can simply leave you a pile of 5/8" drywall for that room, left in that room, and get something for your money.

Just six lights for that large space? Not enough and might be a missed opportunity for some design flair for the theater.

The rubber smell eventually goes away. You also don't take the flooring right out to the stud wall as you need to leave a little expansion gap, and that gap
can see a thick bead of quality silicone caulking.

You might want to consider all the large glass at the backside of the room and how all that will put a limitation of just how effective the rest of the sound isolation
will be because of that. Jeff's "lifestyle theater" neatly eliminated that issue.

BIGmouthinDC 10-26-2019 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wong (Post 58728846)
I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.

you can actually do a two row theater in a 21 ft deep room, best practice would be space saver rear row seats (classic theater rockers) or a back sit at bar but it can be done. Much less space to sound proof.

David Wong 10-27-2019 04:00 PM

I have a meeting with my builder tomorrow to discuss what I want to do with the room, we'll see what he says about if we can leave it half-finished.

I think I've also decided that instead of a 2nd row of seats I'll do a tall countertop the same width as my front row of seats with tall countertop height chairs. I am assuming that with that type of setup I won't need a riser to be able to see over the front row? Or is a riser still needed even in this case?

Also what counter height would you recommend for this application? My thought is that it gives people a place for food and drinks during the movie when I have that many people there at once. Most of the time the front row of 4 should be good enough.

BIGmouthinDC 10-27-2019 04:06 PM

a bar top is 42 inches the same height as most HT recliners no problem with sight lines without a riser , in fact you can probably do a counter top height bar at 36 inches and still see over the front row. just shorter stools.

Tedd 10-27-2019 04:25 PM

A riser can allow for other styles of seating. Office style chairs on wheels, or swivel tub chairs.

BIGmouthinDC 10-27-2019 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedd (Post 58739766)
A riser can allow for other styles of seating. Office style chairs on wheels, or swivel tub chairs.


with the need to keep the rear of the room at ground level due to the french doors to the outside any riser design with movable seating would need some provision for keeping your guests from rolling off the back into the abyss. One vote for a no riser design for this space or a drink ledge and standing room only as a third row.

Tedd 10-27-2019 05:29 PM

Yes, safety-wise, that wouldn't be a great feature with rolling chairs.

Potentially a good option if one could eliminate the window and move the door. Those large panes of glass are going to defeat sound isolation efforts and
raise the noise floor.

BIGmouthinDC 10-27-2019 05:40 PM

I suspect that moving the doors to the adjacent room would put it under a deck.

David Wong 10-28-2019 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedd (Post 58739980)
Yes, safety-wise, that wouldn't be a great feature with rolling chairs.

Potentially a good option if one could eliminate the window and move the door. Those large panes of glass are going to defeat sound isolation efforts and
raise the noise floor.

I've thought about this, moving the door to the adjacent room. Right now the exterior door leads to a small concrete patio which is underneath the 1st floor walkout patio. I would need to have more concrete poured at the new door exit, which isn't the worst idea.

In the meantime could I stuff an absorption panel in the doorway and window frame when movie watching?

BIGmouthinDC 10-28-2019 10:17 AM

yes

David Wong 10-28-2019 01:40 PM

If I'm planning on building a soffit around the ceiling border of the room, would you run all your speaker wires through the soffit or would you still run speaker wire through your studs behind the finished walls? My thinking is that wires run through the soffit could be dropped down wherever you place a speaker; the front stage is hidden behind your baffle wall; columns can hide the wire dropping down for your surrounds.


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