Walk-Out Basement AT Screen Theater Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 24Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 110 Old 10-20-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Walk-Out Basement AT Screen Theater Build

Hello all home theater enthusiasts! I'm excited to share my build with y'all and bounce ideas and get some quality feedback. First I'll tell you a little about my experience with home theater. For the past 9 years my HT consisted of: SI 92" 1.4 gain 2.35:1 Black Diamond screen, Panasonic ae4000 1080p projector, Onkyo TX-SR876 AVR, 5 Polk Audio speakers that totaled $600, 1 Epik Empire sub. It's served me well and I'm grateful for it. I'm now in the process of having a new house built and will have the opportunity to start from scratch on a new HT. I'm bundling my previous HT equipment with the sale of our current house, a friend suggested I do this as an incentive to sell the house and it gives me a reason to upgrade and start fresh. On to the new house and HT!

The HT room will be in one part of our walk-out basement which measures 26'10" x 21' x 9', the room on the far right of the 1st floor plan photo.

Proposed Equipment List
Screen: Seymour XD DIY ~150" wide 2.35
AVR: Marantz SR6013
Amp: Outlaw Audio Model 7000
Bluray: TBD
Speakers: JTR 212RT x3 LCR, Volt 10's for surrounds, Volt 8's for heights.

Purchased Already
Subs: 2x PSA V3612 - pre-ordered
Projector: JVC RS2000 & Paladin DCR

Acoustic Plan Design: Nyal @ Acoustic Frontiers

Design Notes:
I will wire for 9.4.6 and get speakers as I can afford them to build up to it eventually.
After the DD GG shell is created I plan on doing soffits for running cable and putting lights.
There will be a riser and a stage built.
Undecided on color theme or overall look.
Considering Night Sky Murals for the middle ceiling, this depends on what acoustic treatments are called for however.

11/5/19 Update:
Opening between rooms has been built up, just need to add a door now. The glass french doors at the rear of the room have been moved to the adjacent room as well. Electricians just have to install 4 home runs to the room now as per my request. HVAC contractor will be installing a return in the room as well since there are already 2 supply lines. The basement has its own HVAC zone. After these installations there's nothing else I can have done in the room. I have to wait until we close on the house before I finally begin building my room. My best estimate would put that somewhere in January or February 2020....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Basement.JPG
Views:	65
Size:	97.2 KB
ID:	2629930   Click image for larger version

Name:	Right Wall 2.PNG
Views:	52
Size:	2.28 MB
ID:	2630408   Click image for larger version

Name:	Right Wall 1.PNG
Views:	61
Size:	2.26 MB
ID:	2630410   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Wall.PNG
Views:	55
Size:	2.04 MB
ID:	2630412   Click image for larger version

Name:	Left Wall.PNG
Views:	52
Size:	2.24 MB
ID:	2630414  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Front Wall.PNG
Views:	50
Size:	1.41 MB
ID:	2630416   Click image for larger version

Name:	HT plan 2.JPG
Views:	40
Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	2635048  

Last edited by David Wong; 11-07-2019 at 04:53 PM.
David Wong is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 110 Old 10-21-2019, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
LOL no. I don't know why the photos are upside down. They aren't that way on my PC. I might have to turn them upside down on my end before uploading so they appear upright here.
David Wong is offline  
post #3 of 110 Old 10-21-2019, 04:34 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,312
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked: 924
Some random thoughts:

That large opening is a missing chunk of reflective side wall, come acoustical treatment time.

Why not plant the av rack under the stairs, right outside the room?

You want to absorb the small amount of energy that comes off the backside of the AT screen. And ideally treat the first reflection points to the main row of seating.

I'd be tempted to mirror the stair intrusion on the other wall (and use both those angles as a design element) along with some of the space up behind the beam, for HVAC
up front. That beam could also hide screen wash lighting. You also could host some bass trapping up front in the corners, and it could be rather focused. I'd also
consider giving a wee bit more room depth to the front AT space. More wiggle space to plant the subs and keep them back of the mains.

You do want the front AT wall to be strong, and as spatially open as possible, yet not have it resonant. You ideally don't want those sub drivers blowing onto the
fabric or AT screen, and have them treat it like a filter, or have the subs working to ripple the screen.
David Wong likes this.
Tedd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 110 Old 10-21-2019, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Some random thoughts:

That large opening is a missing chunk of reflective side wall, come acoustical treatment time.

Why not plant the av rack under the stairs, right outside the room?

You want to absorb the small amount of energy that comes off the backside of the AT screen. And ideally treat the first reflection points to the main row of seating.

I'd be tempted to mirror the stair intrusion on the other wall (and use both those angles as a design element) along with some of the space up behind the beam, for HVAC
up front. That beam could also hide screen wash lighting. You also could host some bass trapping up front in the corners, and it could be rather focused. I'd also
consider giving a wee bit more room depth to the front AT space. More wiggle space to plant the subs and keep them back of the mains.

You do want the front AT wall to be strong, and as spatially open as possible, yet not have it resonant. You ideally don't want those sub drivers blowing onto the
fabric or AT screen, and have them treat it like a filter, or have the subs working to ripple the screen.
I'll have to look into that alternate AV rack location, it does seem like a good option though.

I also like the idea of mirroring the angled wall for both acoustic symmetry and aesthetic reasons. Thank you for your thoughts!
David Wong is offline  
post #5 of 110 Old 10-21-2019, 05:13 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Trying to re-upload the photos right side up this time.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Front Wall.PNG
Views:	37
Size:	1.41 MB
ID:	2630076   Click image for larger version

Name:	Left Wall.PNG
Views:	34
Size:	2.24 MB
ID:	2630078   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Wall.PNG
Views:	29
Size:	2.04 MB
ID:	2630080   Click image for larger version

Name:	Right Wall 1.PNG
Views:	33
Size:	2.26 MB
ID:	2630082   Click image for larger version

Name:	Right Wall 2.PNG
Views:	33
Size:	2.28 MB
ID:	2630084  

David Wong is offline  
post #6 of 110 Old 10-21-2019, 05:15 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
If you treat the entire front wall behind the AT screen with absorbtion (my preference) there is no acoustic reason to make an equal angled wall on the right side of the theater. It will be out of sight.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #7 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 04:51 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Initially I wasn't planning on doing a room within a room with clips and and hat channels. As I started reading more build threads here I have some questions.

1. My room is in the basement and in the corner of the house. If I only installed clips/hat channels on the ceiling and interior wall, would that work? Or to be effective you need to do every wall even if 2 walls are exterior walls?

2. I'm considering closing off the side wall opening and moving the door towards the back corner. This way I can optimally place speakers for a 7.2.4 configuration. However I do kind of like the side wall opening where it is, I can add some narrow double doors later. If I kept the doorway where it is currently, any ideas for speaker placement for 7.2.4? The doorway is exactly where your side surround channel would go.
David Wong is offline  
post #8 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 06:28 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
Unfortunately sound waves travel like ripples in a pond not just in a straight line. Your exterior walls will do an excellent job of channeling sound up to the joist space then the rooms above. You need to think in terms of building a fully enclosed containment vessel. Ceiling, walls and floor. Any hole you cut needs to be addressed.

As for door placement you really need to draw a scaled floor plan showing your seating positions, If you expect multiple rows you need to elevate the rear seating and that seating riser position should be considered relative to the entry and walkways. Put your seating drawn to scale on your room diagram, the speaker positions and door placement decisions will follow.

If you are doing a single row space with intimate seating I would have picked the smaller space on the opposite end of the basement.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-24-2019 at 04:59 PM.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #9 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 04:36 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
This would fit my lifestyle. A windowless soundproofed intimate cinema screening room with an AT screen and superior sound. Outside the theater a pub/cafe with walk out doors to the backyard. Maybe a flat panel TV mirroring what is on the screen in cinema. An acoustically transparent screen wall hiding all the problem wall areas. The door to the pub would be as wide as possible, move the existing framing, it is a load bearing wall so you would need temp supports as you move that header.



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0014[1].JPG
Views:	118
Size:	2.49 MB
ID:	2631754  
Tedd and Rjloper9 like this.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-24-2019 at 04:57 PM.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #10 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
This would fit my lifestyle. A windowless soundproofed intimate cinema screening room with an AT screen and superior sound. Outside the theater a pub/cafe with walk out doors to the backyard. Maybe a flat panel TV mirroring what is on the screen in cinema. An acoustically transparent screen wall hiding all the problem wall areas. The door to the pub would be as wide as possible, move the existing framing, it is a load bearing wall so you would need temp supports as you move that header.



That is an interesting take on the space, I never would have come up with that on my own. I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.

I also had a question on how to decouple the floor. I haven't come across any descriptions or plans on how to do it.
David Wong is offline  
post #11 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 06:40 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
you float a new plywood/OSB subfloor on 1/2 inch rubber mat. There are other methods and products this is just the one I've done on a few designs.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #12 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 06:43 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wong View Post
however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.
Make a mental note to get back to me in 5 years and tell me how often you used both rows, unless you have more than 4 in your immediate family.
Tedd and Luddy111dog like this.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #13 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 07:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Geraldton - 250miles from Perth Western Australia
Posts: 410
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Liked: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wong View Post
I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.
A bench with bar stools behind the one row of seating did it for me
niterida is online now  
post #14 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
you float a new plywood/OSB subfloor on 1/2 inch rubber mat. There are other methods and products this is just the one I've done on a few designs.
Any recommendations or links for a rubber mat? Are there special kinds designed for this?
David Wong is offline  
post #15 of 110 Old 10-24-2019, 09:27 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
one commercial product I've used: https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...a-mat-underlay

You can also use Horse Stall Mats from Tractor Supply to save a little per sq ft.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #16 of 110 Old 10-25-2019, 04:39 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
one commercial product I've used: https://www.soundproofingcompany.com...a-mat-underlay

You can also use Horse Stall Mats from Tractor Supply to save a little per sq ft.
I actually have about 14 horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Co(3/4" 4'x6') in my garage right now that we use as gym flooring. The rubber smell hasn't gone away even after almost 2 years. Any issues with the rubber smell after putting the subfloor and carpeting on it?
David Wong is offline  
post #17 of 110 Old 10-25-2019, 06:13 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
There haven't been any reported problems, yet.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #18 of 110 Old 10-25-2019, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Part of the signed contract with my home builder is for him to finish the HT room normally. By this I mean 1/2" drywall on all walls/ceiling, LVT flooring, HVAC, electrical and 6 ceiling lights. Now that I've resolved myself to do a proper build and no finishing work has begun yet on the room I am wondering about telling him to not do anything except maybe run the electrical. HVAC is already installed.

Since the LVT flooring is already paid for, would you have it installed and then put your rubber mat - plywood - carpet on top of that? Or no LVT and leave the concrete slab as is? Basically I'm asking which way would yield better results?

If my builder agrees to leave it largely unfinished I'm willing to put in the time, with help, to build it right.
David Wong is offline  
post #19 of 110 Old 10-25-2019, 03:30 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
depends what the local building inspector and your bank (if you are using a mortgage) says about leaving a room semi finished, It would save the mess of any demo required. No harm in getting the LVT tile. In hindsight you could have negotiated a respectable discount on the original contract to skip finishing the room.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 10-25-2019 at 03:40 PM.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #20 of 110 Old 10-26-2019, 06:59 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,312
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked: 924
You might see if they can simply leave you a pile of 5/8" drywall for that room, left in that room, and get something for your money.

Just six lights for that large space? Not enough and might be a missed opportunity for some design flair for the theater.

The rubber smell eventually goes away. You also don't take the flooring right out to the stud wall as you need to leave a little expansion gap, and that gap
can see a thick bead of quality silicone caulking.

You might want to consider all the large glass at the backside of the room and how all that will put a limitation of just how effective the rest of the sound isolation
will be because of that. Jeff's "lifestyle theater" neatly eliminated that issue.
Rjloper9 likes this.

Last edited by Tedd; 10-26-2019 at 05:24 PM.
Tedd is offline  
post #21 of 110 Old 10-26-2019, 09:52 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Wong View Post
I think however I want more seating, 2 rows of 4 or so should be good.
you can actually do a two row theater in a 21 ft deep room, best practice would be space saver rear row seats (classic theater rockers) or a back sit at bar but it can be done. Much less space to sound proof.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #22 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
I have a meeting with my builder tomorrow to discuss what I want to do with the room, we'll see what he says about if we can leave it half-finished.

I think I've also decided that instead of a 2nd row of seats I'll do a tall countertop the same width as my front row of seats with tall countertop height chairs. I am assuming that with that type of setup I won't need a riser to be able to see over the front row? Or is a riser still needed even in this case?

Also what counter height would you recommend for this application? My thought is that it gives people a place for food and drinks during the movie when I have that many people there at once. Most of the time the front row of 4 should be good enough.

Last edited by David Wong; 10-27-2019 at 04:04 PM.
David Wong is offline  
post #23 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 04:06 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
a bar top is 42 inches the same height as most HT recliners no problem with sight lines without a riser , in fact you can probably do a counter top height bar at 36 inches and still see over the front row. just shorter stools.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #24 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 04:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,312
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked: 924
A riser can allow for other styles of seating. Office style chairs on wheels, or swivel tub chairs.
Tedd is offline  
post #25 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 04:57 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
A riser can allow for other styles of seating. Office style chairs on wheels, or swivel tub chairs.

with the need to keep the rear of the room at ground level due to the french doors to the outside any riser design with movable seating would need some provision for keeping your guests from rolling off the back into the abyss. One vote for a no riser design for this space or a drink ledge and standing room only as a third row.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #26 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 05:29 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 9,312
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked: 924
Yes, safety-wise, that wouldn't be a great feature with rolling chairs.

Potentially a good option if one could eliminate the window and move the door. Those large panes of glass are going to defeat sound isolation efforts and
raise the noise floor.
Tedd is offline  
post #27 of 110 Old 10-27-2019, 05:40 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
I suspect that moving the doors to the adjacent room would put it under a deck.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #28 of 110 Old 10-28-2019, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Yes, safety-wise, that wouldn't be a great feature with rolling chairs.

Potentially a good option if one could eliminate the window and move the door. Those large panes of glass are going to defeat sound isolation efforts and
raise the noise floor.
I've thought about this, moving the door to the adjacent room. Right now the exterior door leads to a small concrete patio which is underneath the 1st floor walkout patio. I would need to have more concrete poured at the new door exit, which isn't the worst idea.

In the meantime could I stuff an absorption panel in the doorway and window frame when movie watching?
David Wong is offline  
post #29 of 110 Old 10-28-2019, 10:17 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 32,376
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5962 Post(s)
Liked: 5535
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #30 of 110 Old 10-28-2019, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: CSRA
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 30
If I'm planning on building a soffit around the ceiling border of the room, would you run all your speaker wires through the soffit or would you still run speaker wire through your studs behind the finished walls? My thinking is that wires run through the soffit could be dropped down wherever you place a speaker; the front stage is hidden behind your baffle wall; columns can hide the wire dropping down for your surrounds.
David Wong is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off