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Loneshark786 11-05-2019 09:00 AM

New NoVA Home Theater Build
 
7 Attachment(s)
After scouring through this forum for a couple of years, I am ready to start with my very own Home Theater build. We are in the process of building a new home, so I tried my best to plan accordingly up to this point. The room is 19'6" X 16' with 9' ceiling and steps down to 10' (poured slab). The walls are 12" poured concrete on three sides (front, left, right) - with no windows, and entrance is from the rear :p Due to things out of my control, I would have liked to make the room a bit longer (ideally at 24'), but still happy with the space I have to work with.

Adjacent to the room is the mechanical/Utility. I plan on using an 8'X6' space to house the electrical components into a mid-atlantic rack in there with an opening into the HT. Since the plan is to have two rows, I don't think I have enough room to have an AT screen. The space currently before framing, from the front wall to the riser is exactly 11ft. So, I was thinking 125" fixed screen, as I don't want it to be too daunting on the front row. What are your thoughts on having the front left and right speakers built into the framing at an angle?

I already have a BenQ LK970, but that's about it for now. I would ideally like to spend less than 5K on speakers and a receiver. Looking to do 7.2 for now. Was looking at a Klipsch bundle on Amazon - let me know your thoughts on that brand - looking for floor standing for front, bookshelves or in-walls for surrounds and rears. Above this room is the entry foyer and a half bath powder room. I currently plan on doing double drywall layers and absorption insulation covered with fabric for about 30% of the room. The space will be used 60% movies, and 40% gaming. Regular TV and sports will not be watched here. Little noise/vibrations is OK, so I don't think I need to do a room within a room with clips and channels.

Planning on running HVAC through tray bulkhead. Ideally, would like to spend 15K or less on screen, speakers, receiver and seats (4 + 3). The framing, cabling, drywall and other building supplies and labor will be off of my general home building budget.

I have included the layout, current room and proposed design renderings. I would appreciate your thoughts on the following:

1. What speaker brands/models for 7.2 setup under 5k?
2. Ideal screen size for this size room (19.5' X 16')? - currently planning to do 125"
3. Is it better to have the front L/R speakers built into an angled framed wall or sitting directly on ground? (I would put batt insulation behind the speakers if I go that route).
4. Is there anything different you would do with the layout as it currently sits?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

hd0823 11-05-2019 10:33 AM

I would personally go bigger I'm right around 12 ft to eyes in front row and have a 165 in 16:9 and dont ever feel overwhelmed. I had the same worries at the beginning to I think you could get away with up to a 150 in. Also if you want to get a tad dirty and. Build your speakers subs and screen by yourself you can be way under that budget and the performance will be way more than what you could do with that budget.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

BIGmouthinDC 11-05-2019 11:06 AM

If you are planning reclining theater seats the second row needs to be moved back. the diagram show seat back to seat back of less than 5 ft, you need 6 1/2. The backs under the projector, which is not a problem. But access to that rear cabinetry may be a problem. I would not leave that wall open to the stairway as shown in the rendering.

MississippiMan 11-05-2019 11:36 AM

@Loneshark786


First off, look at the Klispch THX In-Wall Bundles. There are Speaker / Receiver Bundles that come in just barely over $5K. You can orient the Right & Left on the angled corner build outs....to a prescribed angle, and put a In-Wall Center behind a simple, straightforward Acoustic Transparent Screen if you simply build the end wall out a full 6.75" deep (1x6 with double Hung 5/8" Drywall )


Or you paint the entire Central Wall area with a high performance Screen Paint, and go "Format-less and Size Flexible" and still have room to place a Klispch Center appropriately high enough and at a proper angle.


I think you current Floor Plan and seating allowances are close enough to start working with / around, but as suggested, you do need to allow for the proper depth for the Rear Row seating in a reclined position...and that would be at absolute minimum 80". Most seating reclines to 68-69" so allowing 12" space is really minimizing things....but certainly workable. Anything more is then just all the Mo'Bedder.


If by at least applying 2 layers of Drywall you solid-up the Room's surfaces so that the cannot reverberate to sound pressure, simple Acoustic Dampening Panels can solve most every other concern. And any thing doubled is better than any singular layer. 2 x 1/2" is good...1-5/8" with 1/2 overlay is better... 2x 5/8" best of all. Much has to do with your own expectations as to sound levels. Reasonable expectations are easier to manage...and cost less in the scheme of things. a single layer of 5/8" combined with the right Insulation can stilloffer more than "Make do" results.



Some judicious choices and careful spending will be needed to match your proposed overall budget....and some really wise choices might have you come in below just a tad.


Your description leaves out Atmos.....and that is something that a Theater such as yours should have.

BIGmouthinDC 11-05-2019 11:40 AM

+1, any new home theater built today should at least pre-wire for Atmos ceiling channels. The location of the recessed ceiling lights will probably need to be moved to accommodate speaker placement.

Loneshark786 11-05-2019 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd0823 (Post 58779002)
I would personally go bigger I'm right around 12 ft to eyes in front row and have a 165 in 16:9 and dont ever feel overwhelmed. I had the same worries at the beginning to I think you could get away with up to a 150 in. Also if you want to get a tad dirty and. Build your speakers subs and screen by yourself you can be way under that budget and the performance will be way more than what you could do with that budget.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I will put some painters tape on the wall for 150" 16:9 and see if it is do-able. I would prefer as large as possible without having to constantly turn heads, so lets see what happens.

Loneshark786 11-05-2019 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 58779184)
If you are planning reclining theater seats the second row needs to be moved back. the diagram show seat back to seat back of less than 5 ft, you need 6 1/2. The backs under the projector, which is not a problem. But access to that rear cabinetry may be a problem. I would not leave that wall open to the stairway as shown in the rendering.

I can move the recliners back between 6.5' - 7'. That shouldn't be an issue. I was thinking of making use of the dead space under the stair case and putting some cabinetry in there as well as a mini fridge. Do you think that would be an issue?

Also, any benefits/cons to try to build a box into the rear bulkhead for the PJ? I like the clean look of a dedicated box instead of suspended from the ceiling. But only if the pros outweigh the cons.

MississippiMan 11-05-2019 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Loneshark786 (Post 58779706)
I can move the recliners back between 6.5' - 7'. That shouldn't be an issue. I was thinking of making use of the dead space under the stair case and putting some cabinetry in there as well as a mini fridge. Do you think that would be an issue?


The rear Wall is an important space and not to be casually consigned to becoming a Mini-Kitchen. You'd need a lot more traffic area than you have laid out to make it practical, and the 2nd row Seating would suffer. Lastly, it couldn't be used during a Movie without disrupting the mood.


Much better to focus on the traffic in-out of the Room. You've made a good start, don't muck it up by trying to make it too multi-purpose.

Quote:

Also, any benefits/cons to try to build a box into the rear bulkhead for the PJ? I like the clean look of a dedicated box instead of suspended from the ceiling. But only if the pros outweigh the cons.
Ha! Dedicated Box? Try 2nd Bedroom! That PJ is a BEAST...and LOUD....so any enclosure would out of necessity be at least 28" deep x 24" wide x 12" high, and still would require significant "powered" ventilation due to the fact that the front would have to be almost enclosed to prevent the 37 db of Fan noise from shooting out and destroying your Karma.

Under such circumstances placing the PJ in a "Open-Topped" Enclosure built into the overhead Bulkhead at the top of the rear Wall and shooting through a minimal sized opening would be a lot more effective, cost and performance wise. You boxing the unit would give you an even cleaner, more professional looking space.

Loneshark786 11-18-2019 06:43 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MississippiMan (Post 58780186)
The rear Wall is an important space and not to be casually consigned to becoming a Mini-Kitchen. You'd need a lot more traffic area than you have laid out to make it practical, and the 2nd row Seating would suffer. Lastly, it couldn't be used during a Movie without disrupting the mood.


Much better to focus on the traffic in-out of the Room. You've made a good start, don't muck it up by trying to make it too multi-purpose.


Ha! Dedicated Box? Try 2nd Bedroom! That PJ is a BEAST...and LOUD....so any enclosure would out of necessity be at least 28" deep x 24" wide x 12" high, and still would require significant "powered" ventilation due to the fact that the front would have to be almost enclosed to prevent the 37 db of Fan noise from shooting out and destroying your Karma.

Under such circumstances placing the PJ in a "Open-Topped" Enclosure built into the overhead Bulkhead at the top of the rear Wall and shooting through a minimal sized opening would be a lot more effective, cost and performance wise. You boxing the unit would give you an even cleaner, more professional looking space.

What are you thoughts if I move the AV box into the back of the room (closet under the stairs - 4.5' X 6') and place the BenQ PJ sitting on top of it, and just create a small opening to shoot out the image? Since the main duct will be running along side this, I can create an opening in there to cool it.

BIGmouthinDC 11-18-2019 07:25 AM

That can work but you need to run the throw distance calculators for your selected projector and screen size to make sure it is feasible. Providing ventilation will be critical so you don’t cook your projector.

Loneshark786 11-18-2019 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC (Post 58837306)
That can work but you need to run the throw distance calculators for your selected projector and screen size to make sure it is feasible. Providing ventilation will be critical so you don’t cook your projector.

I plan on having a louvered door, plus a vent from the duct. I may also invest in a powered wall fan if things look to becoming toasty. Hope that should suffice.

brazensol 11-18-2019 11:40 AM

If you put a mini-fridge in the theater you will hear it when the compressor kicks on.

brazensol 11-18-2019 11:42 AM

My front row is about 10' from a 135 inch 2.40:1 screen and it seems about right for me. This works out to a 1:1 screen width/eyes ratio.

3fingerbrown 11-18-2019 12:51 PM

Won't the duct that would cool the projector in the summer also pump heat into the projector in the colder months? The best way would be to have a fan pulling air past the projector and pushing into the return air duct.

Looks like a cool build. You should definitely pre-wire for Dolby Atmos overhead speakers. Some people like the overhead speakers more than the rears in a 7 channel system... In my theater I also installed mdf backer boxes for my ceiling speakers to contain sound, that is hard to retrofit later without a lot of sheet rock mess.

If you can get away with floor standing speakers, do it. With my rowdy kids, floor standing speakers would eventually get knocked over and hammered, so I did built-ins, but I wish I could have done floor standing cabinet speakers because you can adjust them to your specs or swap them out every few years when you get the itch to upgrade. You could also do on-wall speakers mounted on those angled walls.

Loneshark786 11-18-2019 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown (Post 58839032)
Won't the duct that would cool the projector in the summer also pump heat into the projector in the colder months? The best way would be to have a fan pulling air past the projector and pushing into the return air duct.

Looks like a cool build. You should definitely pre-wire for Dolby Atmos overhead speakers. Some people like the overhead speakers more than the rears in a 7 channel system... In my theater I also installed mdf backer boxes for my ceiling speakers to contain sound, that is hard to retrofit later without a lot of sheet rock mess.

If you can get away with floor standing speakers, do it. With my rowdy kids, floor standing speakers would eventually get knocked over and hammered, so I did built-ins, but I wish I could have done floor standing cabinet speakers because you can adjust them to your specs or swap them out every few years when you get the itch to upgrade. You could also do on-wall speakers mounted on those angled walls.

I'm still bouncing some ideas for the cooling/venting of the PJ in that back closet area. I could close the vent during the time the heat is on, and only turn up the powered fan. I will talk with my HVAC contractor and see what we can do for pushing the air into the return - good suggestion

As others have suggested, I will definitely pre-wire for Atmos, but don't think I will install them just yet. But since the space is open, better to do it now and just have the piece of mind for the future.

I too initially wanted floorstanding speakers, but my space will just feel too crammed in. So, I am seriously looking into the Klipsch THX Pro Line for the LCRs (THX-504s) and then the 502s for the surrounds and rears with built in backer boxes and have some insulation installed in the columns.

Also, I love how some folks have the star ceilings built up, but (sigh), just feels like a lot of work.

ScottAvery 11-18-2019 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown (Post 58839032)
The best way would be to have a fan pulling air past the projector and pushing into the return air duct.

Is this a universally agreed strategy? Seems like there might be some drawbacks.

BIGmouthinDC 11-18-2019 02:44 PM

You need to consider the air flow pattern of the projector and make sure you aren’t try to blow air up it’s a$$

3fingerbrown 11-19-2019 07:20 PM

I thought about doing a star ceiling too but it is either a ton of work or a lot of money. Instead I’m doing an LED rope light border. Here is a thread with a ton of info:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ighting-8.html

3fingerbrown 11-19-2019 10:07 PM

I’m putting a mini-fridge in my theater and I’m sure it’s going to be a hit with my kids and friends. It all depends what your theater is used for. Is it a dead serious all black screening room? Then of course the fridge is out of place. Or do you watch sports and entertain groups too? I do both and also have a bunch of teenage boys over for XBox parties, so the fridge adds to the fun. I designed a space that is for parties. As for the noise, when I’m in serious movie mode, I will hit a button on my phone, flipping off the smart switch to the fridge, killing any noise.

Loneshark786 11-20-2019 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown (Post 58846700)
I’m putting a mini-fridge in my theater and I’m sure it’s going to be a hit with my kids and friends. It all depends what your theater is used for. Is it a dead serious all black screening room? Then of course the fridge is out of place. Or do you watch sports and entertain groups too? I do both and also have a bunch of teenage boys over for XBox parties, so the fridge adds to the fun. I designed a space that is for parties. As for the noise, when I’m in serious movie mode, I will hit a button on my phone, flipping off the smart switch to the fridge, killing any noise.

Originally, I had thought about putting a mini fridge in the back, but recommendations were to move it elsewhere due to the space constraints. And I think that was the right recommendation. I read up on your thread....really jealous of your space, its gonna be great. I'm also planning on putting my center just below the screen angled slightly at the seats. So, its cool to see that you also incorporated this into your build. My kids are in the early teens now, so I am really building out the whole basement as a giant hang out place (Air hockey, foosball, computer gaming, PS4/Switch gaming, and arcades). So, I may just put the mini fridge in that area.

impreza276 11-20-2019 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown (Post 58846700)
I’m putting a mini-fridge in my theater and I’m sure it’s going to be a hit with my kids and friends. It all depends what your theater is used for. Is it a dead serious all black screening room? Then of course the fridge is out of place. Or do you watch sports and entertain groups too? I do both and also have a bunch of teenage boys over for XBox parties, so the fridge adds to the fun. I designed a space that is for parties. As for the noise, when I’m in serious movie mode, I will hit a button on my phone, flipping off the smart switch to the fridge, killing any noise.

I think the issue of mini fridge noise is overrated. I gave in and bought a cheap fridge. I will hear the compressor kick in. But is it a nuisance? Not at all. Most of the time I am too engrossed in what I am watching to notice. It is not an irritant.

And on the related subject of noise floor, I too believe from my own experience that there is a point of diminished returns when lowering it. I got my noise floor pretty low, then raised it by adding the mini fridge and a couple of other items. Honestly, the experience is the same and I can hear all dialogue and ambient movie sounds perfectly either way. It is vastly improved from before the room was soundproofed. But I think there is a point that when it is already quite low, that you are not going to reap any meaningful gains by lowering it further.

Loneshark786 01-29-2020 05:11 AM

Question on Can lights under Ductwork
 
3 Attachment(s)
Framing is about complete and Ductwork is going in. I have 16"H X 20"W ducts running all across the rear and one side the room. The other side has some waste lines which will be covered by a bulkhead. I want to be able to put can lights under the ductwork. I have seen where others have done this. I am looking at the following product, and seeing if this is what folks have installed.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have a couple of questions on this:

1. Will 2 inches below the ductwork be enough clearance for the bulkhead/soffits for me to fit those lights and pink insulation?
2. Any issues others ran into when installing these in tandem with a dimmer?
3. Anything different you would do with the lights given the ductwork that is going in there?

Thanks

pkinneb 01-29-2020 02:29 PM

I would pick one up and make sure it will fit I would also run it past my electrical inspector. As long as the box is accessible through the hole I think you will be ok but some of these inspectors can be tough. For example if they want that box mounted that could be problematic.


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