Behind my baffle wall there’s a double power outlet in the concrete wall. (See arrow in picture attached). I will fill up the baffle wing with fluffy pink (which isn’t pink over here but yellow, but it’s still fiberglass based).
I’d like to use one outlet to connect my subwoofers, but I have no use for the other one. How do I safely treat this behind the fluffy pink?
a) just put the fluffy in front of it, there will be no fire hazard
b) keep the fluffy a certain distance from the wall (will this help with bass trapping as well?)
c) cover it with duct tape
d) other, ....
I know here if it isn't easily accessible it isn't legal, I'd make sure you have some way to gain access to that outlet just in case you ever need to. Is it possible to get it relocated so its in the wall?
Hmm. That’s a good point. I checked the regulations and indeed it must be accessible. Presumably to be able to disconnect whatever’s plugged in in case of trouble. I could just plug-in an extender and plug the sub in that extender where I can reach it, but that’s strictly not according to the rules.
I’ll see if I can make a tunnel in the isolation and baffle so that I could reach the outlet.
If I put this 6” tube through the fluffy, I could wire the sub through the side tube and reach the outlet through the front tube. Just have to make a 6” hole in the baffle wall and attach one of the foam tiles with Velcro
Option e would be to keep the entire bottom of the baffle wing open and start the pink fluffy and wings only above the level of the outlet. Not sure if that would be sturdy enough.
It is definitely against the rules of the NEC here in the USA to cover, block or otherwise restrict access to any any device that has electrical wiring in it, with that said are you going to be selling your house with it like this? If so then you should put it where it can be seen/accessed without obstructions. Otherwise if you will be removing the wall (temp wall during theater viewing, Temp via the NEC means a lot of things... LOL) then I would say all is fair game within your comfort range knowing that blocking it is a potential hazard.
It’s not likely that would happen any time soon but it’s likely the room would be sold as a theatre as-is so another reason to keep it accessible somehow. Thanks!
If it were me, and based on what has already been established about codes (although you should always verify against local codes as they vary from place to place) I would repopulate it. You are already committed to putting up framing so just cut that drywall out to the left or right and put the receptacle outside the false wall.
Looking at the above picture you will either have extra wire to the right or left (which would choose my direction) and you would just need to trim up the excess and then reattach to a new box - this is considering the receptacle is end of line.. Worst case, the line comes from above and you will need to get some extra wire - make absolutely sure its the same kind and then extend. You will need a sealed junction box for the "splice". Another worse case is if that receptacle is "in the middle" meaning you have a line to the left and right.. similar problem - you will need to trim one side and then connect the new box into the line and probably use a junction box where the existing receptacle used to be.
After that - put the dry wall back and hit it with some mud to clean it up. Paint it with some PVA and then whatever color you want and you should be gtg. If you use some instant 45 min mud you could probably pull off a 'good enough' job in about a day that is going to be hidden behind your new construction.
Hiding a junction box is just as bad as leaving the receptacle where it's at. I agree with moving it, just make sure there is access. Where are the other receptacles at?
We do have here in the US a "Romex" Non-Metalic splice kit to extend direct wires "in-wall". You should check your local codes but you might find you can do that in your area. If this is in concrete, my guess is, it is in conduit and probably can not be buried behind a wall, so creating access would be your best bet. I hope you find an answer!
Near the right wall the wing is about 30” from the back wall. At the other end of the wing it’s 2” from the back wall wall. So it’s a huge triangular space behind it. If I stuff that entirely with fluffy pink, would it make sense to make holes in the baffle wall so it can double as a bass trap? How big would such holes need to be? And does the position of the hole matter? Since I kept the frame separate from the concrete walls there’s a long vertical gap on the side of about 1.5” anyway.
Perhaps I could combine those holes with one hole that gives access to the outlet.
Most of Nyles wing wall baffle designs leave ample open space at the top and bottom, You could easily leave 2 ft open at the bottom (covered by a fabric panel) and have all the access you need to make the outlet "permanently accessible"
Hmm yes that’s a possibility too, although other designers seem to have the opinion that the baffle should extend vertically too. But there’s room for a vertical piece of baffle since the outlet is at about 12” from the floor.
Good. Plenty of options after all. Will ponder this a bit more and update the result in my build thread.
It is perfectly fine (in the USA, under NEC) to have a receptacle outlet inside a cabinet,, for instance. It is not visible when the cabinet is closed - but it is accessible for usage and service. (A recep inside a cabinet wouldn't count toward the "required receptacles" at least every 12 linear feet of wall space - not that anyone asked that question...)
In this situation, if you had an access panel that popped out or swung open, and through that you have room to work on the box and service the wiring inside, then it is "accessible."
Obviously local codes vary but that's the general principle.
I wouldn't do the PVC port thing as one would not be able to service the inside of the electrical box through that opening - "not accessible."
For outlet access I would imagine that the rule only applies to permanent access, not stuff like furniture. I don't see why that section of baffle wall cannot be made as a removable structure. It doesn't have to be readily removable, just a structure that can be detached if necessary.
I solved it by making a small plateau above the outlet, so that I can fill everything above it with fluffy pink while easily being able to access the outlet:
The supports are glued to the concrete since I can’t drill in it. Fluffy pink isn’t heavy though so this should work fine.
I think I’ll leave the hole in the baffle open, and covering it only with a fabric panel in front of it.
that would leave a big cavity with hard surfaces, I'd stick some stuff in there behind the fabric to mitigate any resonances. Doesn't really matter what just something that absorbs sound. Old pillows for example.
probably just make sure you don't have two parallel hard surfaces without something.
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