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post #1 of 15 Old 12-13-2019, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Bedroom To 5.1.4 Home Theater Conversion


I have a space in my house that was designed as a bedroom (closet and full bath) but is currently used as an office and soon I intend to convert to a home theater.



So I thought I’d spell it all out here and get comments, recommendations and even concerns that I can address before I start the process and the spending.


I have attached a drawing of the space along with a side and front elevation of my first design concept. Below I’ve also listed the gear so I can get everyone’s two cents on that too.


The space is 11’ - 8” wide and 17’ - 6” deep with a ceiling height of 8’ - 11” There is also 9” crown molding with cove lighting around the entire room. All walls and ceiling are painted chocolate brown. With the exception of the wall with the closet, bathroom door and double entrance doors all the walls are exterior walls and there is attic / ceiling access.


The thought was to use a 120” Diagonal, 16:9 Woven Acoustic Projector Screen with an appropriate projector (Optoma UHD60, Epson 5040UB or 6030UB). This would be viewed from about 13'


The windows in the room have roman shades and are on the east side so light leak is minimal and could be blacked out further. The viewing will run the gamut from Netflix to Dish TV (primarily sports) as well as a Plex system via Nvidia Shield TV Pro and 4K Blu-Ray.


Audio would be (if appropriate) 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos using all in wall and in ceiling speakers…unless I’m convinced otherwise.


The audio is one of my concerns in so far as I have read that some soundtracks are mixed with the thought that there are speakers outside the width of the screen to handle dialogue and effects that occur “off screen” I’m wondering if I should attempt to locate my L & R speakers outside the screen, which may reduce the screen size, or will this truly be an issue if the speakers (L/C/R) are all behind an acoustic screen.


Here’s a tentative gear list:


Optoma UHD60
STR-169120-WAB Silver Ticket, 120" Diagonal, 16:9, 4K Ultra HD Projector Screen, Woven Acoustic Material with Black Backing
Denon AVR-X3600H UHD AV 9.2 Channel Receiver
5 - Monolith by Monoprice THX-365IW THX Ultra Certified 3-Way In-Wall Speakers (L/C/R – LS/RS)
4 - Monoprice Alpha In-Ceiling Speakers 6.5in Carbon Fiber 2-Way with 15° Angled Drivers
Monolith by Monoprice 10" THX Select Certified 500 Watt Powered Subwoofer
Nvidia Shield TV Pro


Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by hwb; 12-14-2019 at 11:46 AM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-13-2019, 07:26 PM
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At 120 " diagonal, (less than 9' separation between R & L) your front sound stage will be quite collapsed and homogenized.



Here's what I'd be spec'ing out for someone I was building out that room for. I'd make the Screen in 2.39:1 Format 132" x 55" (143" of DIY crazy!) and THEN place the Speakers out at each edge behind the AT Screen. Your sitting at 13' from a 11' widescreen so you'd be a bit over a 1.2:1 Ratio...which is just fine for 4K watching, and certainly something you would marvel at.

I would choose / specified a different PJ. The Optoma has a whopping 21" Image Offset and is not as bright as it's 3000 lumen indicates. Mind you, it's not a "bad" unit, especially if it's going to be used in a mostly darkened environment. However it has a higher than desired incidence of producing Rainbows...only 64% Light Uniformity...and it's cheaply built. You can and should do better. Perhaps with some prudent and correct spending, enough can be saved to get you a PJ that is actually as bright as advertised and can be mounted sensibly. (Epson 5050 or 4010) That is where I can perhaps help the most.

For instance,

The Monoliths are all over priced and under performers, and that would cost you at both ends. You have other, better alternatives that can create a seamless surround sound stage, and that can provide both impact and musicality.

If any of your specifications remain open...and you open minded, things can get significantly better without the costs rising proportionately.

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post #3 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
At 120 " diagonal, (less than 9' separation between R & L) your front sound stage will be quite collapsed and homogenized.



Here's what I'd be spec'ing out for someone I was building out that room for. I'd make the Screen in 2.39:1 Format 132" x 55" (143" of DIY crazy!) and THEN place the Speakers out at each edge behind the AT Screen. Your sitting at 13' from a 11' widescreen so you'd be a bit over a 1.2:1 Ratio...which is just fine for 4K watching, and certainly something you would marvel at.

I would choose / specified a different PJ. The Optoma has a whopping 21" Image Offset and is not as bright as it's 3000 lumen indicates. Mind you, it's not a "bad" unit, especially if it's going to be used in a mostly darkened environment. However it has a higher than desired incidence of producing Rainbows...only 64% Light Uniformity...and it's cheaply built. You can and should do better. Perhaps with some prudent and correct spending, enough can be saved to get you a PJ that is actually as bright as advertised and can be mounted sensibly. (Epson 5050 or 4010) That is where I can perhaps help the most.

For instance,

The Monoliths are all over priced and under performers, and that would cost you at both ends. You have other, better alternatives that can create a seamless surround sound stage, and that can provide both impact and musicality.

If any of your specifications remain open...and you open minded, things can get significantly better without the costs rising proportionately.

My specs are definitely open as long as the costs don’t spiral.



Ive seen some 2.35:1 screens that could work but with Netflix and sports from Dish TV my playback could be 60-70% 16:9 so I’m wondering if I should stay with that aspect. Also how do I deal with lensing…anamorphic?
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 12:52 PM
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You'll get smoother frequency response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips) if you place the listeners' ears 2/3 room length (11.75 feet) from the front wall. From that distance, a 120" screen would give you a 40 degree viewing angle. Not very immersive. I would go bigger (45-50 degree viewing angle).

Looking at your overhead drawing, where were you planning on putting the surround speakers?

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post #5 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 01:22 PM
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Let's do the math:


16:9 120" diagonal is 105" x 59"
2.39:1 140" diagonal is 129" x 54"
(Can't match the 16:9 height....room isn't wide enough)

The latter only gives up 5" of vertical height to the 16:9 screen, but allows for wider speaker separation, Epic-ally Wide and Taller Cinema (...because it should be...), and not too shabbily sized 16:9 Football. NO Black Bars running the width of the screen....and the much smaller 14" vertical Pillars are easy to mask with Panels or Short-Pull Black Velvet Curtains.

All are "Win-Win" propositions

Addres such a screen with a Epson 5050 and you'll have no issues with HDR and still have 3D as well..

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post #6 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
You'll get smoother frequency response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips) if you place the listeners' ears 2/3 room length (11.75 feet) from the front wall. From that distance, a 120" screen would give you a 40 degree viewing angle. Not very immersive. I would go bigger (45-50 degree viewing angle).

Looking at your overhead drawing, where were you planning on putting the surround speakers?

I certainly could move the seating area / listening position forward. In doing so that could also help with the rear Atmos speaker angle too.
Is that a good rule of thumb...Ideal listening position 2/3 into the room?
When you say "go bigger" would you bump the screen size to the max that would fit like this: STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 142" Diagonal 2.35:1 Cinematic Anamorphic

I intended to use the same in wall speakers as the fronts for surrounds and they'd be in line with the front left and right speakers.

Last edited by hwb; 12-14-2019 at 01:28 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
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I intended to use the same in wall speakers as the fronts for surrounds and they'd be in line with the front left and right speakers.
If you Google 5.1 speaker layouts, you'll see that the surrounds are supposed to go more along your sides than behind you: http://www.thesoundroom.biz/images/SREKSP1.jpg


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post #8 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 02:07 PM
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Is that a good rule of thumb...Ideal listening position 2/3 into the room?
Yes. If you could look at the peaks & nulls along the length of your room, you'd notice that all the bass nulls fall at even divisions (half, quarters, sixths) of room length. To avoid nulls, it makes sense to place the listeners' ears at odd divisions (thirds, fifths) of room length. Your proposed seating location was already close to 2/3 room length, so I figured I'd recommend an acoustically better location that involved a minimal change to your plans.
Quote:
When you say "go bigger" would you bump the screen size to the max that would fit like this: STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 142" Diagonal 2.35:1 Cinematic Anamorphic
I'll leave aspect ratio (2.35 vs 16x9) up to your personal preference, but I would make the screen at least 120 inches wide for a 45 degree viewing angle.

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post #9 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Let's do the math:


16:9 120" diagonal is 105" x 59"
2.39:1 140" diagonal is 129" x 54"
(Can't match the 16:9 height....room isn't wide enough)

The latter only gives up 5" of vertical height to the 16:9 screen, but allows for wider speaker separation, Epic-ally Wide and Taller Cinema (...because it should be...), and not too shabbily sized 16:9 Football. NO Black Bars running the width of the screen....and the much smaller 14" vertical Pillars are easy to mask with Panels or Short-Pull Black Velvet Curtains.

All are "Win-Win" propositions

Address such a screen with a Epson 5050 and you'll have no issues with HDR and still have 3D as well..



Can't mask in 16:9 because it'll block L & R speakers (not a BIG issue to have the unused screen seen)


Is it just a matter of lens zoom to fill for movies vs. 16:9 or will that require other settings such as brightness?
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
If you Google 5.1 speaker layouts, you'll see that the surrounds are supposed to go more along your sides than behind you: http://www.thesoundroom.biz/images/SREKSP1.jpg


I've used the attached Dolby Atmos layout but not sure how to make the room work... The "closet" area at the top of my drawing will house all the equipment. The red boxes you see are where I'd place Dolby Atmos enabled surround speakers which follows the Dolby recommendation. However, that won't work as it's right in the middle of the equipment and would block any access to that area.
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 04:46 PM
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However, that won't work as it's right in the middle of the equipment and would block any access to that area.
In that case I guess you have no choice but to mount them in the back wall, spread as wide apart as symmetrically possible.

Sanjay
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
In that case I guess you have no choice but to mount them in the back wall, spread as wide apart as symmetrically possible.

I was thinking in the absolute corners with tweeters at ear level... am I on the right track?
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwb View Post
Can't mask in 16:9 because it'll block L & R speakers (not a BIG issue to have the unused screen seen)

Is it just a matter of lens zoom to fill for movies vs. 16:9 or will that require other settings such as brightness?

No way! 2 Black Spandex Panels 12" x 61" that adhere with Magnets will do the job and not hinder the sound at all. (...or anywhere near enough to matter...)

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post #14 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwb View Post
I've used the attached Dolby Atmos layout but not sure how to make the room work... The "closet" area at the top of my drawing will house all the equipment. The red boxes you see are where I'd place Dolby Atmos enabled surround speakers which follows the Dolby recommendation. However, that won't work as it's right in the middle of the equipment and would block any access to that area.

Don't get fixated on the Dolby requirements layout...adapt and make it work in a "Best case as possible" design. There are a few excellent Surround In-Ceilings to consider)

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post #15 of 15 Old 12-14-2019, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hwb View Post
I was thinking in the absolute corners with tweeters at ear level... am I on the right track?
Yes. Mounting the surrounds at ear level will give you excellent separation between sounds around you versus sounds above you (the hallmark of a good Atmos system).

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