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post #1 of 52 Old 01-03-2020, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Poker Theater Room

This is my first attempt at constructing a mixed theater room. Primarily half theater, half poker/bar area. I've been a long-time lurker here on the boards and have taken numerous ideas from many of the great posters out here to start building this thing. Needless to say, I don't anticipate being done this year, but I've made a lot of progress over the last few months and continuing to make progress as we go. I'd like to thank several folks who have helped out so far: @Silva741 for a number of 3d renderings and @BIGmouthinDC for answering several of the PMs I have sent him as well as the numerous posts on the board.

So a little bit about what I am trying to do. First, I love movies and I really wanted a room where I could crank up some sounds and be immersed in the movie. Next, I have to worry about soundproofing as my wife doesn't like loud noises. Yeah, what to do what to do. Anyway, I have to be concerned about soundproofing. The room itself measures 16' x 24', but I am planning for a minibar and poker tabe in the back, so only one row of theater seats in this puppy. As I love movies, I am wiring for 9.2.6 but will probably run 7.2.6 until some of the receivers come down in pricing. In addition, I have been fascinated by the BOSS thread from the Hideaway Theater (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...y-theater.html) and planning on doing the BOSS under the seating row, so when it's all said and done, I should be running a 7.5.6 system and eventually a 9.5.6 when the AVR supports it.

Based on all the reading of the forum, I am going down the road of RSIC-1 clips with hat channel and the doing the double 5/8 drywall with GG. As I have some can lights and HVAC, I am building boxes for can lights and suspending them on the hat channel to decouple, as well as the HVAC with flex duct.

The renderings have been very helpful in visualizing and designing various aspects. Here's a few examples of his work to date. We've spent some time talking about the corner bar, which will have an ice maker and dishwasher, as well as a sink. We'll also be floating a star panel in the center, but that will come later.
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post #2 of 52 Old 01-03-2020, 11:05 AM
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your seating is really close to the rooms length midpoint. There will be a major null in bass volume there.
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post #3 of 52 Old 01-03-2020, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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As I mentioned, we have done some work on framing and wiring, so here's a few pics of the work that we have done to date and some of the little things we've been doing based on all of the reading from the forums. The first picture is a look at the room with the hat channel and insulation in. Basically we framed out the room and ran all the electrical and plumbing. Next we installed the insulation in all areas, including the walls. This picture is showing RSIC-1 clips and hat channel with some of our ceiling area done. From an audio side, I am going with Monitor Audio around and I am using the CP-CT380 ceiling speakers to run the atmos side. I chose those speakers as they have built in backer boxes.

Some of the other pics show the boxes we built around the canned lights. All of the switches and electrical socket we put in adjustable depth boxes, as well as built out about 2" from the walls to make them flush in the acoustic shell. We also had putty pads installed on the back of each gang box for noise proofing. Had a little bit of extra hat channel and clips, so we over-engineered the ceiling a bit. Just seems like a lot of weight on those clips.



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post #4 of 52 Old 01-03-2020, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
your seating is really close to the rooms length midpoint. There will be a major null in bass volume there.
Ideally, we'll push the seating back to about 2/3 of the way. Trying to avoid the central point and still have the poker table. We'll be playing with it for a a bit but the graphic was overlaying dolby's layout on the chart.
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post #5 of 52 Old 01-05-2020, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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So was measuring up and with the DD + GG, the room length is about 22' and we'll have seating around 13.5' mark, so about 60% of the room length. I am thinking that should be a decent location to avoid the bass null. I was also thinking we would have 2 subs in the front corners, plus the BOSS under the seating. What do you think?
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post #6 of 52 Old 01-05-2020, 01:09 PM
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Sounds like a good plan, be sure the two front subs are equidistant to the center line of the room to mitigate that null that runs lengthwise.
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post #7 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywalling is moving fast. Double layer of 5/8 with GG in between. Applied acoustical caulking in ever seam and around all the edges and where the wires came through. Next step... doing some painting and then starting the soffit, columns, and risers construction.

Meanwhile, having an interesting email exchange with @NightSkyMurals about painting a star ceiling. Looks like a fun activity, so where I was originally doing fiber optic, I may be replacing that with trying my hand at stenciling stars.

From an equipment side, I've been planning on using a Epson 5040ub projector with 135" AT screen. I've been back and forth a few times on the speakers, but ended up on planning Monitor Audio around. So for the LCR, I'll be going the Silver 300 and C350, sides with the Silver FX, Rears with Silver 50 and then the 6 Atmos speakers will be the Controlled Performance CP-CT380s as they have built in back boxes. From a sub side, probably leaning towards HSU. I have a VTF 15 and love it upstairs, so thinking a pair of those downstairs will probably rock it.

Should hopefully be primer'd this week and I'm planning on using Black for the ceiling and screen wall, with burgundy for the side walls and rear. The columns may also be black, but been toying the idea of adding some dark golds or browns to the color. Doing everything with a satin finish... yeah I know it's a little reflective, but I have 4 small kids that I can't even keep the stainless steel appliances clean, let alone walls. So I need something that I can wipe down and chances are the flat matte paints won't work.



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post #8 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 03:20 PM
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Wow this is moving quickly!
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post #9 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfahnestock View Post
...Meanwhile, having an interesting email exchange with @NightSkyMurals about painting a star ceiling. Looks like a fun activity, so where I was originally doing fiber optic, I may be replacing that with trying my hand at stenciling stars.
I had Jeff @NightSkyMurals paint my ceiling and can tell you it is awesome! if you do it yourself running it down into the soffit is a game changer in my opinion
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post #10 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfahnestock View Post
Ideally, we'll push the seating back to about 2/3 of the way.
That would be ideal for smoother bass response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips).

If you blow across an empty bottle, you can get the air in that small chamber to resonate (make that boooooh sound). If you enlarge that small chamber to the size of your room, the air in there will still resonate (of course at different frequencies than the empty bottle). Below is a map of how the resonances (room modes) appear along your room length, showing locations of major peaks & nulls in the bass range.



Notice that all the nulls fall at even divisions (half, quarters, sixths) of room length. To avoid them, it's a good idea to place the listeners' ears at one of the odd divisions (thirds, fifths) of room length. In fact, at the 2/3 point of room length, most of the problem frequencies are roughly the same level (see green box below). This is ideal compared to the midpoint of room length, where the problem frequencies are either loud peaks or quiet nulls (all extremes, no moderation).



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I was also thinking we would have 2 subs in the front corners, plus the BOSS under the seating. What do you think?
As with room length, there are going to be resonances across the 16' width of your room at certain problem frequencies: 35Hz, 71Hz, 106Hz, 141Hz, etc. That means listeners seated across your couch are each going to be getting a different bass experience, because each listener will be sitting in a different combination of peaks & nulls.

Since you are going to be using 2 subs anyway, you can cancel the first 3 width modes (35Hz, 71Hz, 105Hz) simply by moving the subs out of the corners and centering them at the ¼ and ¾ points of room width. This will give you smooth bass AND seat to seat consistency across the width of your room. Best part: it's free (doesn't cost anything to move subs). The room correction system in your receiver will thank you. Explanation from Floyd Toole below:


Sanjay
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post #11 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow this is moving quickly!
It's actually been going on for a while, I was just late on posting the thread.

Goal was to get through the drywall stage over the holiday.... Things will slow down as I do tax accounting part-time so my nights will be shot. My hope is to have the painting done within the next week and then get some columns and the soffit set.... Then as Silva is cranking on the 3d rendering, I'll get a better feel on the acoustic treatments and how to position. Learning as I go. I wish I was more savvy as some of the DIY folks and I'd have more done.
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post #12 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I had Jeff @NightSkyMurals paint my ceiling and can tell you it is awesome! if you do it yourself running it down into the soffit is a game changer in my opinion
Cool! Any chance you can snap a picture and send to me? Love to see it!
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post #13 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That would be ideal for smoother bass response (fewer/smaller peaks & dips).
Since you are going to be using 2 subs anyway, you can cancel the first 3 width modes (35Hz, 71Hz, 105Hz) simply by moving the subs out of the corners and centering them at the ¼ and ¾ points of room width. This will give you smooth bass AND seat to seat consistency across the width of your room. Best part: it's free (doesn't cost anything to move subs). The room correction system in your receiver will thank you. Explanation from Floyd Toole below:

This is great Sanjay! Thank you! I knew we had to move back, I'm a bit constrained due to the bar in the back, but I'm moving the seating back as far as I can, while still having a poker table in the back. I agree with placement up front and the 1/4 and 3/4 mark is where I am now going.
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post #14 of 52 Old 01-06-2020, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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@Silva741 has been cranking out some new renderings. We've enlarged the soffit to be 12 inches tall and photoshop'ed in a star ceiling that we are looking at doing. Now these don't have stars in the soffits, but we'll see if we can mock something up in that aspect.
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post #15 of 52 Old 01-07-2020, 06:42 AM
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Cool! Any chance you can snap a picture and send to me? Love to see it!
Here are a few pics. Full disclosure these pics do not even come close to providing the awesome experience Jeff @NightSkyMurals painted on our ceiling, especially with the black lights off. Once the ceiling is charged about 10 min ish you can turn the black lights off look up and its like being outside. Truth be told I actually fell asleep doing just that in my new @HTmarket Sheffield chair last weekend LOL






PS the red light is from the projector.
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post #16 of 52 Old 01-07-2020, 07:47 AM
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post #17 of 52 Old 01-07-2020, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
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I knew we had to move back, I'm a bit constrained due to the bar in the back, but I'm moving the seating back as far as I can, while still having a poker table in the back.
Try to end up with the listeners' ears at one of the odd divisions of room length. If you can't go 2/3 back from the front wall, then try 3/5 back (the "60% of room length" you had mentioned before).

Where ever you end up, there is one nice benefit to having a single row: all the listeners will be the same distance from the front & back walls. That means all listeners will experience the same combination of whatever peaks & dips are caused by your room's length modes. When the room correction system in your receiver fixes the response at one seat, it will fix it for all seats. How great is that! Remember, subwoofer placement already took care of the biggest peaks & dips caused by your room's width modes.

Again, the best part about using placement to address some of the bigger acoustical problems in the room is that it is a free solution. Leaves less reliance on treatments and equalization later on.

Sanjay
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post #18 of 52 Old 01-07-2020, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
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Here are a few pics. Full disclosure these pics do not even come close to providing the awesome experience Jeff @NightSkyMurals painted on our ceiling, especially with the black lights off. Once the ceiling is charged about 10 min ish you can turn the black lights off look up and its like being outside. Truth be told I actually fell asleep doing just that in my new @HTmarket Sheffield chair last weekend LOL






PS the red light is from the projector.
Dang... no wonder my neck and back hurt!

Thanks for posting these, and for your nice comments!

Jeff
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post #19 of 52 Old 01-07-2020, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics. Full disclosure these pics do not even come close to providing the awesome experience Jeff @NightSkyMurals painted on our ceiling, especially with the black lights off. Once the ceiling is charged about 10 min ish you can turn the black lights off look up and its like being outside. Truth be told I actually fell asleep doing just that in my new @HTmarket Sheffield chair last weekend LOL
That looks fantastic. Okay, definitely painting the soffits. New renders attached from silva with painted soffits.
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That looks fantastic. Okay, definitely painting the soffits. New renders attached from silva with painted soffits.
Thanks! Those renders look awesome! BTW I should have mentioned that my ceiling is painted dark blue with a matte finish and the soffits are flat black.

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post #21 of 52 Old 01-09-2020, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's the latest renders with some of the wall color and acoustic panels up. Working on the lighting and door side now. In addition, I'm a big fan of stretched canvas movie posters. I also included pics of the ones I am going to be doing. I'm a fan of the classic 80s adventure movies, but the wife insisted on Harry Potter for the kids. Happy wife, happy life. So needless to say Harry Potter will be on the wall.
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post #22 of 52 Old 01-09-2020, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Been working on reviewing wall sconces and I definitely want something that is more of a Up-Down light. Came across this on the internet. Has anyone every used a multi-light sconce for the lighting effect similar to the attached? I like the effect, but wondering if the dispersion may be too much.
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post #23 of 52 Old 01-09-2020, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! Those renders look awesome! BTW I should have mentioned that my ceiling is painted dark blue with a matte finish and the soffits are flat black.
Out of curiosity, what are you running for lighting in the soffits? You have a nice glow effect. Is that just black light LEDs or are you running a few different things?
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post #24 of 52 Old 01-09-2020, 10:19 AM
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Out of curiosity, what are you running for lighting in the soffits? You have a nice glow effect. Is that just black light LEDs or are you running a few different things?
They are 360 NM Black strip lights I ordered through Jeff @NightSkyMurals . I will also be installing RGBWW strips facing back towards the wall. I have tested the RGBWW strips and the soffit is set up for it just not at the top of the work list yet

Honestly based on the little bit I have watched so far I will probably charge the ceiling for 15 min (via my Insteon controller app) before heading down for a movie and then shut those off and just use the step lights and the charged ceiling during the movie. Its really quite the nice experience and that was with no sound LOL
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post #25 of 52 Old 01-11-2020, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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So some of the canvas movie posters showed up yesterday. They look great and the colors are bright. Fairly hefty canvas material and some solid weight to them. These will look great on burgundy walls. We'll begin the soffit and column construction next two weeks. Let the good times roll!

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post #26 of 52 Old 01-11-2020, 07:58 AM
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So some of the canvas movie posters showed up yesterday. They look great and the colors are bright. Fairly hefty canvas material and some solid weight to them. These will look great on burgundy walls. We'll begin the soffit and column construction next two weeks. Let the good times roll!
Those look great!

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post #27 of 52 Old 01-11-2020, 08:45 AM
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Where are you getting your canvas posters?
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post #28 of 52 Old 01-11-2020, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
Where are you getting your canvas posters?
I shopped around a bit and found greatbigcanvas.com. They don't have a lot of modern posters, but they have classics. I found some great coupons and was able to get 40% off plus free shipping which saved a bunch. I just received the rest of them and attached a picture. They measure 20"x30" but they have others sizes up to 40x60. I'm pretty happy with the quality of the print on canvas and sturdy construction. I just went with the canvas print as that was sufficient for what I am doing.

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Last edited by mfahnestock; 03-26-2020 at 06:26 PM.
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post #29 of 52 Old 01-11-2020, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not the best DIY guy, so I am in awe of those of you with such amazing talent. I have measured and remeasured stuff and finally took the plunge and bought a laser level. Chances are my lines will be much straighter now, which will probably also help my measurements. Good tools go a long way.
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post #30 of 52 Old 01-12-2020, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfahnestock View Post
I'm not the best DIY guy, so I am in awe of those of you with such amazing talent. I have measured and remeasured stuff and finally took the plunge and bought a laser level. Chances are my lines will be much straighter now, which will probably also hep my measurements. Good tools go a long way.
Thanks for the canvas link! You will love that laser level they come in really handy.

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