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post #91 of 117 Old 05-06-2020, 05:13 PM
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Apparently I forgot to turn my sarcasm font on. You’ve obviously given it a lot of thought and offered A very detailed explanation.

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Cool, just get back to us when you’️ve had a chance to give it some more thought and have more details. 😂😂😂

Will do. Probably won’️t be until I’️m done with drywall though. Unless I get sick of that and focus on something else for a while


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post #92 of 117 Old 05-06-2020, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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That was more me replying while doing 2 or 3 other things...re-reading your post, I should have noticed the sarcasm...it was pretty clear. I think my brain processed it as “get back to us when you’ve made more progress in the build of this”


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post #93 of 117 Old 05-08-2020, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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The "CRAVE" Theatre

Still moving forward with the drywall, but nothing too interesting picture wise yet. In parallel, I’ve been working on my automatic masking system. I’ve designed special bushings that will ride on the t-track frame that I built on the top, bottom and back. On the front t-track slot, will be the pegs for the screen to attach to. I’m going to use the rubber band and grommet system for my screen.

Here’s some pictures:

This is the bracket printed by itself. There are holes running through it to attach a small 1/16” bungee. I’ve made it so I can put one on every side doubled up. Hopefully that will help balance the load and prevent binding


Here is one with it on the t-track and the bungee looped through. The t-track is 30mm for scale.



Here I am showing the clearance between the mask leading edge and the screen band peg.




Here is the set screw for the bungee near the center of the frame.



Here is one showing my leading edge part. I’m planning on printing a bunch of these 6” long and keeping things stiff with little tab inserts. The hole in the center will be to run a 1/8” rod through to make sure they stay together
Here is a video of my test:


I’m working on designing a bracket to mount my motor and my limit switch next.


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post #94 of 117 Old 05-11-2020, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Got my drywall to a point I thought I’d show some pictures.

I did the first layer of the ceilings and my soffit in OSB. I know some people say it’s not necessary and harder to work with. To them, I say, you are probably right about the need and definitely right about the ease, but I’ll feel more comfortable putting up my soffit system knowing I have something solid to screw into everywhere I want.



My total build out will use about 68 sheets of drywall and 20 sheets of OSB.
I’ve gotten about 16 sheets of the OSB up and about 23 sheets of the drywall done at this point. I’ve been averaging about 2.5 sheets of material a day since my Lowe’s delivery. This includes carrying, cutting, mounting, caulking, and all that fun stuff.

I feel like I should start speeding up, because the first 2ish weeks, everyday I would run into something I needed to get done before I put up material. Like build a wire box, run LV wires, Finish the soffit, remove the old lights, Fix a mistake in the framing, finish insulation , etc. That is mostly behind me now, except the back left corner, so hopefully I can up my average!







I did my first green glue layer on the bottom side of the soffit and the right wall up to 8 feet. The bucket and applicator that came with it was surprisingly easy to work with.

I also built the first section of my stage out of 2x12s and converted it into a storage rack on one side of my room to hold all my tools and other stuff I’m using


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post #95 of 117 Old 05-18-2020, 03:30 PM
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Nice build progress! Very detailed. I have subscribed to your thread. I'm really interested in your tech you are using for displaying multiple sources in the same screen. It's nice to see other in the Indiana area building theaters and sharing their progress.

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post #96 of 117 Old 06-02-2020, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice build progress! Very detailed. I have subscribed to your thread. I'm really interested in your tech you are using for displaying multiple sources in the same screen. It's nice to see other in the Indiana area building theaters and sharing their progress.

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I bought a device from a company called NTI. The part number is SPLITMUX4k-4RT-R. Markertek sells them. It has a ton of flexibility, but it had a bit of learning curve to get working right. It is also a little loud, but my equipment room is not in my theatre.

It takes four hdmi inputs and combines them onto a screen. I feed all of my devices into a matrix switch so I can route them however I want. I also route the sound separately so that I can switch the audio to any one of the sources. When I’m using it, I usually use the custom mode. With the 140” wide 2.35 inch screen, I have mine set up to do the following options.

Option 1:
1 big, 3 small 16x9 videos. The big one is 122” diagonal, the small ones are 41”
Good for sports. I basically transmit a regular sized 16x9 image moved to one side of the 2.35 screen, and use the remaining part of the screen to stack 3 smaller images.

Option 2: 1 big, 2 small. I get one 101” diagonal, and 2 61” diagonal, good for sports. Shrink the main image, so it isn’t using all the height, which allows me to stack 2 bigger images on the side

Option 3: 2 equal screens, each 80” diagonal. Good for head to head gaming in same room, also sports. I’ve also thrown my laptop screen on one side to work on coding home automation while watching tv on the other. These don’t use the full height of the screen

My old screen was smaller and a 16x9 ratio, so I couldn’t get quite the same sizes as I will be able to in the new setup.

Most of the setup can be done over its web browser interface. If you use any HA system, you can send it commands to go to previous memory settings


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post #97 of 117 Old 06-02-2020, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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My total build out will use about 68 sheets of drywall and 20 sheets of OSB.
I’ve gotten about 16 sheets of the OSB up and about 23 sheets of the drywall done at this point. I’ve been averaging about 2.5 sheets of material a day since my Lowe’s delivery. This includes carrying, cutting, mounting, caulking, and all that fun stuff.

I feel like I should start speeding up, because the first 2ish weeks, everyday I would run into something I needed to get done before I put up material. Like build a wire box, run LV wires, Finish the soffit, remove the old lights, Fix a mistake in the framing, finish insulation , etc. That is mostly behind me now, except the back left corner, so hopefully I can up my average!

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Ha, must have been on something when I wrote this. I’m still making forward progress, but it seems to have slowed down from the early on, as I had a few more things I had to work on, or wait for a few parts. Also, green glue takes a lot more work and moving drywall around. Learned the hard way to test fit that layer dry and then glue. I’ve gotten the interior of the room about 75% done. Hopefully another week.

Here’s my obligatory green glue pics



Sharp eyed readers may notice that I took a detour and am working on my front stage...needed a break from drywall.
Had fun cutting my curved support pieces on the mitre saw the other day


Got the ceiling 2nd layer up, need to tape and mud still.




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post #98 of 117 Old 06-03-2020, 08:56 AM
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Looking good! Its definitely a lot of work but will be well worth the effort
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post #99 of 117 Old 06-09-2020, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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So I made a lot of progress on Saturday. Got the entire interior hung first layer, got all the interior green glue layer up except for 4 sheets. Broke open my 3rd bucket of green glue and am 1/2 way through it.

So now for the complete build, I stand at 53/71 sheets of drywall and 22/22 sheets of OSB up where it needs to be. Most of the remaining drywall goes on the outside of the theatre.

And then went swimming with kids and aggravated an old injury screwing around with them. Can’t lift anything more than 20lbs right now, so the theatre drywall is on hold for a week or two.

So I pivoted and finished up my side and rear surrounds. They are the Volt 8s. I put speakon connectors on the top side since I’ll be running cables down through my columns. I’m pretty happy with their sound and the power in such a little bookshelf.

Next I’m going to order two full Marty flat packs and 4 volt 6 atmos speaker kits to finish off the speakers.




I’ll probably use my recovery time to work on my masking system and some equipment room cleanup. I may also work on mudding if I can handle it.


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post #100 of 117 Old 06-10-2020, 08:28 AM
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Nice progress! Drywall is tough. It was one of the most, probably the most, time consuming and labor intensive part for me. I'm finishing the rest of my basement and I'm seriously thinking about hiring it out.

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post #101 of 117 Old 06-10-2020, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LLDaLastDon View Post
Nice progress! Drywall is tough. It was one of the most, probably the most, time consuming and labor intensive part for me. I'm finishing the rest of my basement and I'm seriously thinking about hiring it out.
The last time I finished a basement, I swore to myself I would hire out the drywall next time - however, this time I decided not to because it seemed like finding someone who could do the double drywall/green glue correctly could be difficult (lot of forum members warning about this), so I decided to do myself. - also pandemic- didn't want people in the house. At least this time my taping and mudding don't have to get to a regular interior finish. I think in my first drywall adventure, I spent 10% of my time hanging drywall, 90% of my timing taping, mudding, sanding, remudding, resanding, remudding, resanding, forever until I was happy with it. With this room, i'm hoping to do only 2 rounds on each seam and call it a day since it will all be covered. I also feel like I know how to apply mud better than I did 15 years ago so there isn't as much work sanding it down.
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post #102 of 117 Old 06-10-2020, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjacobs View Post
The last time I finished a basement, I swore to myself I would hire out the drywall next time - however, this time I decided not to because it seemed like finding someone who could do the double drywall/green glue correctly could be difficult (lot of forum members warning about this), so I decided to do myself. - also pandemic- didn't want people in the house. At least this time my taping and mudding don't have to get to a regular interior finish. I think in my first drywall adventure, I spent 10% of my time hanging drywall, 90% of my timing taping, mudding, sanding, remudding, resanding, remudding, resanding, forever until I was happy with it. With this room, i'm hoping to do only 2 rounds on each seam and call it a day since it will all be covered. I also feel like I know how to apply mud better than I did 15 years ago so there isn't as much work sanding it down.
Good points. I was like that with my theater as well. I was so particular that I felt I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't do it myself. I did have the mudding and taping hired out. I heard that was more of an art to it and bad taping would stick out like a sore thumb.

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post #103 of 117 Old 06-21-2020, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LLDaLastDon View Post
Good points. I was like that with my theater as well. I was so particular that I felt I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't do it myself. I did have the mudding and taping hired out. I heard that was more of an art to it and bad taping would stick out like a sore thumb.

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I'm not too worried about it in the theatre room, as I will end up covering most of it with Fabric and trim, so you won't really see it. As I've been doing it this time, I've been obsessive about getting the mud wetness and mix just right - even then it can be difficult. I realized that the straight seams when you butt 2 uncut edges to each other on the walls is pretty easy to get done. The corners are a little bit harder. The two things I'vefound are the most difficult are are places where you have to butt two cut edges together. There isn't that small indent to put the tape in, so you have to feather it more - the more of these you have, the more work you'll have to do to hide it. The other thing that (for me) is way harder to get right is the ceiling. I don't know if it because gravity is working against me, or the angle isn't good to put the pressure on as well, but my ceiling looks like crap compared to my walls after the first round - I'll have to spend a lot more time sanding it. Maybe that is why almost all ceilings are textured. I've been trying to do a good job in the theatre, more for practice for the outside of the theatre, which will be visible drywall when all is done.
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post #104 of 117 Old 06-21-2020, 11:04 PM
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Great build. Love automated mask documentation!
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post #105 of 117 Old 06-25-2020, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Great build. Love automated mask documentation!

Thanks, I’ve made a lot more progress, but not to the point of testing the full setup yet.

Here’s a few pics of the parts I’m making. These pics are of the leading edge of the mask. I 3D printed them in black. Each one is 5” long, with little inserts. For my screen I’ll have 13 on each side. The hole in the center is for a 1/4” threaded rod. This should hold everything together. I’m going to wrap the mask around this.







For the tube, I’ve printed these shapes. They aren’t pure circles, but octagons because I thought they’d go together and hold torque better. In both designs, the slots are dual purpose- first to save plastic on the printer and weight on the part. second, if in need to I can print little inserts to hold the fabric or to stiffen the system.






I’ve also designed and printed a bracket to hold a NEMA23 motor and it’s controller (~$100 worth of parts per side) and an adapter to lock into these tubes. I still need to make a bracket and adapter for the other end of the tube.
The bracket makes the tube even with the leading edge pieces in the front, and takes up about 3/4” in in the back for the controller. I’ve also wired a limit switch in there so my software knows when the system is all the way open.


I’ll be controlling this with a raspberry pi setup as a web host. I’ve written and tested most of the basic code and it works fine. This will allow my home automation system to send a simple tcp command to make it go to one of several presets.










On a side note, if you don’t have a 3D printer, consider it. I just got mine earlier this year and it has been so useful. You can find a lot of stuff already pre designed to just print. Just today, I had a broken dresser drawer plastic slider thing, googled 3D designs, found a bunch of different ones and printed the one that looked right. 2 hours and about $1.00 worth of PLA and I had a fixed dresser. Have also found a lot of simple brackets for things like network switches, etc.

I also taught myself cad by watching YouTube and found some easy to use free cad software to do my own designs. ( there is a bunch of wasted PLA in a landfill somewhere from me learning how to print things) but I’m really glad I got it.


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post #106 of 117 Old 06-25-2020, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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The "CRAVE" Theatre

In addition to my above post, I’ve made good progress on drywall. I have every sheet of drywall hung inside the room. Both first layer and green glued layer. There are a few small pieces in the back of the room I’m still cutting to finish up. I’ve also got about 50% of the taping and mudding and sanding done.

Here’s the front of the theatre this afternoon



I’m hoping to have it fully taped and mudded by next week. Have house guests this weekend so might fall closer to next weekend

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post #107 of 117 Old 06-25-2020, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjacobs View Post
Thanks, I’ve made a lot more progress, but not to the point of testing the full setup yet.

Here’s a few pics of the parts I’m making. These pics are of the leading edge of the mask. I 3D printed them in black. Each one is 5” long, with little inserts. For my screen I’ll have 13 on each side. The hole in the center is for a 1/4” threaded rod. This should hold everything together. I’m going to wrap the mask around this.







For the tube, I’ve printed these shapes. They aren’t pure circles, but octagons because I thought they’d go together and hold torque better. In both designs, the slots are dual purpose- first to save plastic on the printer and weight on the part. second, if in need to I can print little inserts to hold the fabric or to stiffen the system.






I’ve also designed and printed a bracket to hold a NEMA23 motor and it’s controller (~$100 worth of parts per side) and an adapter to lock into these tubes. I still need to make a bracket and adapter for the other end of the tube.
The bracket makes the tube even with the leading edge pieces in the front, and takes up about 3/4” in in the back for the controller. I’ve also wired a limit switch in there so my software knows when the system is all the way open.


I’ll be controlling this with a raspberry pi setup as a web host. I’ve written and tested most of the basic code and it works fine. This will allow my home automation system to send a simple tcp command to make it go to one of several presets.










On a side note, if you don’t have a 3D printer, consider it. I just got mine earlier this year and it has been so useful. You can find a lot of stuff already pre designed to just print. Just today, I had a broken dresser drawer plastic slider thing, googled 3D designs, found a bunch of different ones and printed the one that looked right. 2 hours and about $1.00 worth of PLA and I had a fixed dresser. Have also found a lot of simple brackets for things like network switches, etc.

I also taught myself cad by watching YouTube and found some easy to use free cad software to do my own designs. ( there is a bunch of wasted PLA in a landfill somewhere from me learning how to print things) but I’m really glad I got it.


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I am hopefully not to far off from you! I just finished my first roll of PETG, and I’m a fan.

My motorized masking system
is a WIP- i finally decided an Arduino and ethernet shield were more reliable than 4 ESP8266’s, though I’m nit using beefy stepper drivers (yet).

What HA platform you running?
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I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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post #109 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinHeadroom View Post
I am hopefully not to far off from you! I just finished my first roll of PETG, and I’m a fan.

My motorized masking system
is a WIP- i finally decided an Arduino and ethernet shield were more reliable than 4 ESP8266’s, though I’m nit using beefy stepper drivers (yet).

What HA platform you running?

I’ve got a sort of custom HA platform that I wrote most of the interface on a raspberry pi. I started it so that I could hack in the ability to control most things from a harmony remote. I’ve written it so that it I can glue any system into it as I want as long as the API isn’t too secret.

I can talk to all my electronics over it. I’ve done interfaces for all my AV gear, smart WiFi dimmers and switch’s, wink hub interface. Most recently I added ability to interface to Marantz HEOS so that I can get my whole house Audio working. I have a few custom relay drivers, LED light controllers and my masking system that I’ve written interfaces as slaves to the main system.

I also have iRule for iPhone control and am planning on making an alexa skill for the Setup.

I have a link to it in my signature.


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post #110 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjambro View Post
I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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I wanted it to be modular so I could actually print it and not fabricate it out of metal or whatever.
I'm perfectly happy to share. AVS won't allow me to attach stl files here, so I made a thing on thingiverse (awesome website if you have a 3D printer) for anyone interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501799

You'll have to make sure to buy your buddy a roll or two of PLA. I think I've used about 1kg making all my parts so far, and my edges are for the horizontal side. With my print settings, each one takes about 3 hours to print, so i have been starting a print at dinner, at bedtime, when i first wake up, etc. (the tabs print pretty fast)

I will hopefully be testing the whole system out in a few weeks. Right now my main concern with the leading edge pieces is that I made them a little too thin (was trying to make mask as thin as possible and as close to screen as possible) and when I put 13 together they can flex pretty well in the same plane as the screen. I'm hoping that won't be much of a problem when everything is under tension. Probably the worst thing that will happen is that it may rub against screen, which I don't want. I may have to widen them out, or add some ridges to stiffen. They are pretty wide in the direction that they will be pulled on and don't have any flex. I might be more worried if I had to make a 14 foot long section. Also, not sure how easy it will be to find a threaded rod that long.



Here are a few cad screen shots of the overall system as I've designed it so far. My motors will be on the bottom of the screen frame even though they look like on top in the pics.

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post #111 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tjambro View Post
I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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As an aside, your profile mentions you live in Indiana? What part? I'm in Fishers.

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post #112 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 08:13 AM
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I wanted it to be modular so I could actually print it and not fabricate it out of metal or whatever.

I'm perfectly happy to share. AVS won't allow me to attach stl files here, so I made a thing on thingiverse (awesome website if you have a 3D printer) for anyone interested.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501799



You'll have to make sure to buy your buddy a roll or two of PLA. I think I've used about 1kg making all my parts so far, and my edges are for the horizontal side. With my print settings, each one takes about 3 hours to print, so i have been starting a print at dinner, at bedtime, when i first wake up, etc. (the tabs print pretty fast)



I will hopefully be testing the whole system out in a few weeks. Right now my main concern with the leading edge pieces is that I made them a little too thin (was trying to make mask as thin as possible and as close to screen as possible) and when I put 13 together they can flex pretty well in the same plane as the screen. I'm hoping that won't be much of a problem when everything is under tension. Probably the worst thing that will happen is that it may rub against screen, which I don't want. I may have to widen them out, or add some ridges to stiffen. They are pretty wide in the direction that they will be pulled on and don't have any flex. I might be more worried if I had to make a 14 foot long section. Also, not sure how easy it will be to find a threaded rod that long.







Here are a few cad screen shots of the overall system as I've designed it so far. My motors will be on the bottom of the screen frame even though they look like on top in the pics.



Attachment 2749336

Attachment 2749338
Thanks for the link and I will definitely be watching your progress.....as well as @sor and @MinHeadroom because you guys are more clever than me!

I would definitely have to buy my buddy some PLA and maybe a new printer as many I would need lol. The beauty of your design for the 14 foot width (I'm doing a 2:1 CA setup) is that I should be able to get a turnbuckle to attach the two rods together and it would be internal to your design...assuming it fits. I was gonna use flat metal stock like sor did but I don't know where to get 14 foot stock. If printing doesn't work I guess I may have to look outside of the typical big box stores. I also need to figure out how to attach the 2 2inch rollease pieces also. Definitely will be a work in progress...once I start. Lol.

Ok I hijacked your thread long enough, thanks again and I am looking forward to seeing your raspberry pi in action although I will go the same route @sor did...

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post #113 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 09:00 AM
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As an aside, your profile mentions you live in Indiana? What part? I'm in Fishers.
I'm about 30 minutes from Evansville. About 20 minutes of I64/I69 intersection

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post #114 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 09:02 AM
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I'm about 30 minutes from Evansville. About 20 minutes of I64/I69 intersection

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Nice to see a few Hoosiers around these parts. It used to seem like everyone was from Kansas and NOVA. Lol

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post #115 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 09:10 AM
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Awesome build! I got a great laugh out of the 2x4 going through the windshield, thanks for sharing that embarrassing moment lol, I could imaging the confusion and then finding the damage.
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- MIRAGE OM-C2 Center, MIRAGE M490 L/R, 4 JBL 8330a surr , 8 x JBL 12" subs w/Inuke 6000. JVC RS420, Denon x4000, Sony x800 -
Classix ii's + building Paul Carmody Sunflower Redux for 2 channel
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post #116 of 117 Old 06-26-2020, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome build! I got a great laugh out of the 2x4 going through the windshield, thanks for sharing that embarrassing moment lol, I could imaging the confusion and then finding the damage.
dang it. I had successfully blocked that from my memory until just now. way to reopen that old wound!
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post #117 of 117 Old 07-05-2020, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Big milestone for me. Green glued in the last of the drywall today and caulked everything. Will try to tape mud and sand everything by next weekend. As you can see I’m in various stages of that depending on which part of the room I’m showing.






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