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post #211 of 269 Old 05-25-2020, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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The 2019 Nvidia Shield TV Pro came out 10/29/19. I have it and highly recommend it. I have not heard anything about a 2020 version being released, though I'd happily be corrected. Finding the 2019 version is admittedly difficult because of coronavirus.

Congrats on the awesome progress on your theater. You've gotten a ton accomplished in a short period of time


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I stand corrected! I thought I had read somewhere that a new version was coming out June 2020, but I must be mistaken. That’s why I thought I couldn’t find any as I thought they were phasing the old version out before releasing the new one. I got an email the other day saying they were back in stock and by the time I got to the order page they were out! Guess I need to do some more research here
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post #212 of 269 Old 05-25-2020, 07:56 AM
 
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Kids want Jumanji Welcome to the Jungle!!! My 10 year daughter said “Dad that will be a great movie in the theater because it has lots of bass and sounds coming from everywhere!” Almost made me cry when she said that
My 5 year old daughter loves anything with The Rock, as she calls him. Apparently she is going to marry him .

That movie looks and sounds amazing. Should be an amazing event. That is a very intelligent and perceptive girl you have right there. Maybe she will make movies someday. Sound editor perhaps. It gives me tingles any time my children make a comment in that vain.

My 8 year old son has become a 4K snob. Doesn't even like upscaled 1080P. . Enjoy your day. You have created an amazing getaway for friends and family.

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post #213 of 269 Old 05-25-2020, 06:19 PM
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@Claybe In reference to the room acoustics, check out Anthony Grimani’s Home Theater Geeks episodes on YouTube. I think they’re called acoustics 101 and acoustics 102. Both have a ton of great information regarding type, placement, etc.


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post #214 of 269 Old 05-25-2020, 11:42 PM
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The 2019 Nvidia Shield TV Pro came out 10/29/19. I have it and highly recommend it. I have not heard anything about a 2020 version being released, though I'd happily be corrected. Finding the 2019 version is admittedly difficult because of coronavirus.

Congrats on the awesome progress on your theater. You've gotten a ton accomplished in a short period of time


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I just did a crash course on the Shield tonight, and turns out the pro and regular TV version are the same other than form factor and 1GB more RAM + 8GB more storage on the "Pro." So I saved $50 and ordered the regular version, since the RAM doesn't affect the video streaming, only gaming.
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post #215 of 269 Old 05-26-2020, 05:52 AM
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I just did a crash course on the Shield tonight, and turns out the pro and regular TV version are the same other than form factor and 1GB more RAM + 8GB more storage on the "Pro." So I saved $50 and ordered the regular version, since the RAM doesn't affect the video streaming, only gaming.
The biggest reason I got the Pro is that it can also run Plex Media Server and has two USB ports. So all of my 4K content is run from an external HDD plugged directly into the Pro, and my main HTPC turned server has mostly 1080p content, which I have much more of. Since I only have that external HDD plugged in when I'm watching 4K content (or adding more content to it) that HDD should theoretically last longer since it only runs occasionally for a few hours at a time rather than 24/7 on my server. I only have one 4K tv in the house, so it's sorta pointless to host that media on my main server since it lacks the specs to transcode for all my other devices. Plus if I want to take my 4K media to a friend's house the Pro plus HDD is basically the most powerful portable media box I'm aware of and could function fully offline.

That's why the extra $50 was worth it for me. May not be relevant at all for others.

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post #216 of 269 Old 05-26-2020, 06:06 AM
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I just did a crash course on the Shield tonight, and turns out the pro and regular TV version are the same other than form factor and 1GB more RAM + 8GB more storage on the "Pro." So I saved $50 and ordered the regular version, since the RAM doesn't affect the video streaming, only gaming.
The biggest reason I got the Pro is that it can also run Plex Media Server and has two USB ports. So all of my 4K content is run from an external HDD plugged directly into the Pro, and my main HTPC turned server has mostly 1080p content, which I have much more of. Since I only have that external HDD plugged in when I'm watching 4K content (or adding more content to it) that HDD should theoretically last longer since it only runs occasionally for a few hours at a time rather than 24/7 on my server. I only have one 4K tv in the house, so it's sorta pointless to host that media on my main server since it lacks the specs to transcode for all my other devices. Plus if I want to take my 4K media to a friend's house the Pro plus HDD is basically the most powerful portable media box I'm aware of and could function fully offline.

That's why the extra $50 was worth it for me. May not be relevant at all for others.

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Sorry I didn’t mention I am running a plex server on my NAS already.
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post #217 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry I didn’t mention I am running a plex server on my NAS already.
I am also running my Plex server on my NAS so I will be interested to see what you think. Please update after you get it!
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post #218 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I have not spent a ton of time in the theater due to work this week. But an interesting problem developed when I went down there tonight...I have the fibaro RGBW controller’s power supply connected to a physical switch. Anytime I walk out of the room I turn off the switch. When I do that, the fibaro’s configuration is deleted, meaning it remains on the SmartThings hub but defaults to a fibaro dimmer switch and all the colors are wrong and the dimmer doesn’t work. I have to go into IDE and delete it and then physically reinstall it. This is a PAIN! Anyone know why this might be?

Also, I am still fighting sound settings. It seems like sound is different for the Blu-ray player and the raspberry pi, but anytime I change the settings for one it also saves it overall and then one doesn’t sound as good as the other. I know the pi only can run 7.1 sound but it is way different. Guess that is just what it will be until I get a Shield which will also support ATMOS I believe.

And, third problem/question, I have been running my 2 subs bi-amped though my iNuke 3000dsp. I got another cable to run them separately but when I hook them up the Marantz won’t allow several other speakers to sound. I am assuming this is because it is assigning some of the internal amps to cover the extra sub and then won’t let the other speakers sound but I thought the subs were part of the pre-outs???

Anyway, there is a lot still to do before I get it where it needs to be. I need to get this sound dialed in. No one was impressed this weekend because the sound wasn’t very good...I guess that’s what I get for rushing to the finish...
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post #219 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 08:31 PM
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Interesting about the Fibraro. I don’t have any fix, only a workaround (using a SmartThings capable switch to control the Fobraro, and ensuring the Fibraro is always powered).

This is similar to my DIY esp8266 wifi controlled addressable LEDs... the router doesn’t like when they fall off the network then return and wanna do something.
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post #220 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Interesting about the Fibraro. I don’t have any fix, only a workaround (using a SmartThings capable switch to control the Fobraro, and ensuring the Fibraro is always powered).

This is similar to my DIY esp8266 wifi controlled addressable LEDs... the router doesn’t like when they fall off the network then return and wanna do something.
I have been thinking about how to keep it powered all the time as well but I wanted it to be on a switch in case I wasn’t there but the family still wanted to see the lights. The idea being that they hit the switch and it goes on to where it was left like the dimmer switch does. Maybe I need to run the fibaro off an outlet that is on all the time and then run the switch between the power going to the lights and the power controller. I have some figuring to do!
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I have been thinking about how to keep it powered all the time as well but I wanted it to be on a switch in case I wasn’t there but the family still wanted to see the lights. The idea being that they hit the switch and it goes on to where it was left like the dimmer switch does. Maybe I need to run the fibaro off an outlet that is on all the time and then run the switch between the power going to the lights and the power controller. I have some figuring to do!

https://enerwaveautomation.com/products/zw15sm/

Maybe put one of these in an outlet, but don’t connect the load (just connect line and neutral). Put the Fibraro on a regular outlet. In the SmartThings hub software, I’d be shocked if you cannot control the Fibraro from another SmartThings approved switch.
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post #222 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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https://enerwaveautomation.com/products/zw15sm/

Maybe put one of these in an outlet, but don’t connect the load (just connect line and neutral). Put the Fibraro on a regular outlet. In the SmartThings hub software, I’d be shocked if you cannot control the Fibraro from another SmartThings approved switch.
Hmmm, I’m sure I could. Just don’t know how each would play with each other and I am trying to do this without spending any more money . I found this video

Apparently if I had installed 4 switches I could have each one control a different color. I have no idea if this helps the cause or not???

I’m thinking that I could use the line and common wires I have going from the switch to the AV closet as the switch that goes between the power from the power supply and the LEDs. That way the controller is just sending signals about what colors do what and the switch controls whether it is on or off. I need to look at the diagram to see if this is possible or not.

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post #223 of 269 Old 05-27-2020, 09:47 PM
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“The Bentonite” Theater

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Hmmm, I’m sure I could. Just don’t know how each would play with each other and I am trying to do this without spending any more money . I found this video https://youtu.be/PZAPuRH5XW0

Apparently if I had installed 4 switches I could have each one control a different color. I have no idea if this helps the cause or not???

I’m thinking that I could use the line and common wires I have going from the switch to the AV closet as the switch that goes between the power from the power supply and the LEDs. That way the controller is just sending signals about what colors do what and the switch controls whether it is on or off. I need to look at the diagram to see if this is possible or not.

Okay, i love it! This approach is entirely unorthodox by home automation standards, but i think it will work. Just to be clear, though, can you diagram it?

The “If I had installed 4 switches“ part I think I followed. Remind me if you have RGB or RGBW leds. RGBWw is also an option but I think this is less likely based on your description.

The second part I think I follow; Do you want to use the AC switch that is already in the wall (presently controlling mains load to Fibraro controller, allowing you to control whether you’re led lights are being driven (e.g. making light). Am I getting that right?

If I’m right on the second part, and you want to do this unorthodox approach that I think will work, here are my thoughts: by your description there are three or four DC loads going from the from Fibraro to the LED strip, and returning from the LED strip to the Fibraro is one DC negative line (possibly referred to as the Ground).

If that is the case, I recommend you use the negative line, possibly referred to as the ground line, that typically runs between the LED strip and the controller. Put that on an on-off switch (not dimmer). This way, your controller is always powered, all of the outputs on your controller will continue to connect to all of the inputs on the LED strip, and you can control whether all of the LEDs are on or not without the controller being any wiser (unless it has relay activity, but that is getting into a niche home automation rabbit hole that I think you are trying to avoid).
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post #224 of 269 Old 05-28-2020, 12:18 AM
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Still to come...until you run out of money!
You're way more ambitious than I. I'm also already out of money for now- stinking furlough.

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...just wondering what you are going to do with all your spare time now, lol...
REW, and Calman.

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...not many make that jump...
I'm dreading having to make that jump years from now.

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...between making diffusors for the first reflection points or going strict absorption.
Diffusors with some absorption; IMHO

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Awesome work
Agreed, Congrats.

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Almost made me cry when she said that
Now that is awesome; a budding AVS'er.

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post #225 of 269 Old 05-28-2020, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, i love it! This approach is entirely unorthodox by home automation standards, but i think it will work. Just to be clear, though, can you diagram it?

The “If I had installed 4 switches“ part I think I followed. Remind me if you have RGB or RGBW leds. RGBWw is also an option but I think this is less likely based on your description.

The second part I think I follow; Do you want to use the AC switch that is already in the wall (presently controlling mains load to Fibraro controller, allowing you to control whether you’re led lights are being driven (e.g. making light). Am I getting that right?

If I’m right on the second part, and you want to do this unorthodox approach that I think will work, here are my thoughts: by your description there are three or four DC loads going from the from Fibraro to the LED strip, and returning from the LED strip to the Fibraro is one DC negative line (possibly referred to as the Ground).

If that is the case, I recommend you use the negative line, possibly referred to as the ground line, that typically runs between the LED strip and the controller. Put that on an on-off switch (not dimmer). This way, your controller is always powered, all of the outputs on your controller will continue to connect to all of the inputs on the LED strip, and you can control whether all of the LEDs are on or not without the controller being any wiser (unless it has relay activity, but that is getting into a niche home automation rabbit hole that I think you are trying to avoid).
Well, unconventional works in this case. I will try to explain what I did, but the end result is that it works exactly like I want it to. I hope I didn’t do anything to mess anything up. Here’s what I did.

-disconnected the line power coming from the electrical box outside from the switch that is near the door so no 120 power was running to the switch.
-disconnected the neutral from all the other neutrals.
-hooked the black wire to the bottom line in on the switch
-hooked the white neutral wire to the top load side of the switch (both the black and white 14-2 wire plus the ground go into the audio closet and controlled the outlet in the closet that I originally had planned to plug the 120 to 24v converter into to switch it on and off)
-hooked the black wire in the closet to the power out side of the converter
-hooked the white wire to the black wire that goes directly to the LED strips
-plugged the converter into an outlet that is on all the time
-use the switch to turn the power on and off directly to the LED strips

The fibaro is connected to the converter as well. And then all the led wires are connected to the fibaro accept the black power cable.

I hope that makes sense and I hope I didn’t do anything wrong. I am certainly NOT an electrician but this is what made sense to me.

I don’t know what the negative line is you refer to as the black wire in my configuration carries power and that is what was indicated in the electrical diagram they sent with the fibaro.

Now when I walk out of the room, I hit the switch and the LEDs turn off but the fibaro still gets power. Hope this explains it!
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post #226 of 269 Old 05-28-2020, 06:27 PM
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“The Bentonite” Theater

That works- I wasn’t sure exactly how the controller worked, and my suggestion was to put the 24V negative on a switch, But it appears you put the power for the 24V + on the switch, which apparently works, so don’t mess with success! It’s all low-voltage, so I don’t imagine you are endangering your household (though when in doubt, if you ever have an electrician over, it doesn’t hurt to have them take a look). Congrats on figuring it out
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post #227 of 269 Old 05-28-2020, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I figured out the bass problem as well. I had plugged in the 2nd sub and forgot to change the amp to dual mode so the AV wouldn’t recognize it because it couldn’t hear it. Changed that and re-ran audyseey for the 5th time and seems like it is working. Still lots of tweaking to do but I’m working theough the issues one by one....
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I think I figured out the bass problem as well. I had plugged in the 2nd sub and forgot to change the amp to dual mode so the AV wouldn’t recognize it because it couldn’t hear it. Changed that and re-ran audyseey for the 5th time and seems like it is working. Still lots of tweaking to do but I’m working theough the issues one by one....

Definitely do some measurements, pleaaaase? I’m preparing to do mine with no treatments and after each successive one (obviously posting them).
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post #229 of 269 Old 05-29-2020, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Congrats Clay! Suggest you try the MultEQ app for iOS or Android - use a boom mic if you can and get some room corrections. Just wondering what you are going to do with all your spare time now, lol.

Ford V Ferrari (after you work through the Fast & Furious franchise) - IMHO was the best film of last year!

Be proud of what you have accomplished.
So I finally got around to looking into MultEQ and it doesn’t show support for my SR7010. But I did dig through some boxes and found my umik-1. I haven’t used it in years so will need to download the required software again and move the computer into the theater to get some measurements possibly later this weekend or next week. I will post results but have no idea what to do with them....need to research more...
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So I finally got around to looking into MultEQ and it doesn’t show support for my SR7010. But I did dig through some boxes and found my umik-1. I haven’t used it in years so will need to download the required software again and move the computer into the theater to get some measurements possibly later this weekend or next week. I will post results but have no idea what to do with them....need to research more...
Dang - SR7011, and SR7013 supported. Audyssey MultEQ Marantz Are you planning to use it with REW?
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post #231 of 269 Old 05-29-2020, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Dang - SR7011, and SR7013 supported. Audyssey MultEQ Marantz Are you planning to use it with REW?
Yeah, that looks like a cool tool! Maybe on the next receiver...

Yes, plan to use REW.
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post #232 of 269 Old 06-03-2020, 02:17 PM
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Those who use clips and channel on soffits, what do you nail your outside metal corner to on the drywall? Do you just glue it on?
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post #233 of 269 Old 06-03-2020, 04:13 PM
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Assuming you are doing double layers you have 1 1/4 inches of rock, If you use the metal corner bead you can use dipped galvanized nails with a rough finish and they have pretty good holding power. An occasional course thread drywall screw works but it is really easy to screw too much.
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post #234 of 269 Old 06-03-2020, 04:40 PM
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There's also glue-on corner beads. I just used it and it worked well for me. You should find 3M 61 spray adhesive near it at the big box stores.

I am by no means a drywall expert and this was the first time I used it and had no problems.
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post #235 of 269 Old 06-03-2020, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Those who use clips and channel on soffits, what do you nail your outside metal corner to on the drywall? Do you just glue it on?
If I were doing my soffits with clips and channel (which I didn’t), I would simply use the corner bead that you mud in. I used this on the window area and the door area where there was clips and channel and nothing for drywall screws to grab onto. The mud in bead was very easy to use and looks good. Put a little mud behind it, put it on, squeeze as much out as you can and mud over it like the metal bead.

FWIW the times I have seen nails used with drywall or bead they tend to back out and leave bumps over time. I personally would avoid using nails for anything other than framing.
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post #236 of 269 Old 06-04-2020, 07:17 AM
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If I were doing my soffits with clips and channel (which I didn’t), I would simply use the corner bead that you mud in. I used this on the window area and the door area where there was clips and channel and nothing for drywall screws to grab onto. The mud in bead was very easy to use and looks good. Put a little mud behind it, put it on, squeeze as much out as you can and mud over it like the metal bead.

FWIW the times I have seen nails used with drywall or bead they tend to back out and leave bumps over time. I personally would avoid using nails for anything other than framing.
Good idea, thanks
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post #237 of 269 Old 06-04-2020, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Assuming you are doing double layers you have 1 1/4 inches of rock, If you use the metal corner bead you can use dipped galvanized nails with a rough finish and they have pretty good holding power. An occasional course thread drywall screw works but it is really easy to screw too much.
single layer, so only 5/8"
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post #238 of 269 Old 06-04-2020, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by b_scott View Post
single layer, so only 5/8"
I guess I am confused and need to look at your build, but why are you using clips and channel on your soffits and only one layer of drywall?

Edit: just took a look at your build and see you decided to do 1 layer all the way around. Before texture or sound treatments, you might live with it for a while to see if you think adding a second layer might be beneficial. On the soffits, you could have used the IB-3 clips to hang the soffits and then just drywalled right to the soffits and not used the clips and channel, but to each their own It’s coming along!!!

Edit 2: did you get your Nividia Shield? Have you used it yet? Thoughts?
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Last edited by Claybe; 06-04-2020 at 08:19 AM.
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post #239 of 269 Old 06-04-2020, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post
I guess I am confused and need to look at your build, but why are you using clips and channel on your soffits and only one layer of drywall?

Edit: just took a look at your build and see you decided to do 1 layer all the way around. Before texture or sound treatments, you might live with it for a while to see if you think adding a second layer might be beneficial. On the soffits, you could have used the IB-3 clips to hang the soffits and then just drywalled right to the soffits and not used the clips and channel, but to each their own It’s coming along!!!

Edit 2: did you get your Nividia Shield? Have you used it yet? Thoughts?
I did it so that there would be some vibration reduction and footfall sound reduction over my head, but it was a whole mess trying to build the soffits so I just didn't think of hanging clips. I could have done it better but I did a pretty good job for a first timer I think

I did get my shield, I've only tried it on my LG OLED but I like it a lot. Very snappy, Atmos sounds great, PQ is better than my Firestick to my eyes. Only tried it a couple days so I need to get more into it. Streams full BD rips perfectly. I can retire my HTPC
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post #240 of 269 Old 06-05-2020, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I have spent a little time in the theater this week tweaking this and that. I have not had time to get REW setup and run but hope to soon. I can tell you this - THE ROOM NEED TREATMENTS! I clap and it echos. Also, another thing I had not thought of or seen anyone mention is that who in the world thought it was a good idea to put lights right above the screen??? I guess I should add this to the “if I had it to do over again thread” but I find myself looking at them often and they are a distraction. The screen reflects light on them and they are only the 3” LEDs. Lights on the screen = bad idea in my opinion. I don’t think the light is needed when not watching a movie and they are a distraction when watching a movie. I found myself wondering how I can rip them out and finish over the holes. I know I have seen this in many theaters but is one of the biggest things I wish I had not done and I would not recommend this to anyone building a theater. It would be much better without them.
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