11x19 Dedicated Basement HT Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By Defel Radar
  • 1 Post By BIGmouthinDC
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 21 Old 04-02-2020, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
11x19 Dedicated Basement HT Build

Hello All,

I am currently building a home theater room in my basement and have started the framing process.
Unfinished Room size: 20’8” L x 11' 9" W x 8' 10" H
Finished Room size: 19’8” L x 11' 4" W x 8' 6" H

Basement room with 3 Exterior Concrete walls, Master bedroom is above. Good sound proofing is a must.
The room is odd shaped with a 16" cut in 14' back from where the screen would be at making the back of the room 10' 6" wide. I am building a bump out that will give me 8 more inches on that 10'6" making it 11'2" at the back.

I glued 1" foam board on all the concrete walls and framed 2.5" steel studs, 24" on center.
I am going to put 5/8" DD and GG between the ceiling joists, R19 insulation stuffed between, R1 channel on the joist with 5/8" DD and GG.
I am going to soffit running around the sides and back of the theater, boxing around drain pipes in the back, a HVAC duct on the laundry room side and another soffit on the other side just to match.
I am planning on using drywall grid to build the soffits and use 5/8" DD & GG on those as well.

If I am boxing in the soffits with DD & GG around the drain pipes and HVAC Ducts do I need to treat any of those with insulation? This also includes some of the hard piped ducts to the bedroom above?
I do have one HVAC vent near the rear in the theater room but no return at this time. I feel like I need a return but

I've ran 3 - 20 amps circuits and 2 Ethernet cables. I'm planning on 1 circuit for lights (LED strips in soffit, projector and some LED can lights), 1 circuit for the receptacles, last circuit for PC, receiver, speakers etc.

I'm having a debate on if I should do a AT screen wall that is roughly 18" from the front wall (if it's even possible with my room). I was hoping to use that area for not only the speakers but have the HTPC, receiver and other equipment behind it as well. I'm also trying to figure out a screen size as well.

I was also thinking I could put two rows of seats in a 4-3 or 3-3 config.
1st Row: 9.5 ft from screen wall
2nd Row 15.67 ft from screen wall

I'm tossing around an Atmos set up as well and possibly having in wall speakers on the sides and rear. If I did the atmos and in wall speakers I would build backer boxes.

I'm trying to attach a layout and some current construction pics
Thanks for everyone's opinions and advice in advance!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	HT2_Layout.png
Views:	208
Size:	98.5 KB
ID:	2705010   Click image for larger version

Name:	HT_LongWall.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	737.5 KB
ID:	2705012   Click image for larger version

Name:	HT_FrontWall.jpg
Views:	171
Size:	787.2 KB
ID:	2705014   Click image for larger version

Name:	HT Back Wall.jpg
Views:	185
Size:	919.1 KB
ID:	2705016  
OJ Bartley likes this.

Last edited by Defel Radar; 04-15-2020 at 05:38 PM.
Defel Radar is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old 04-02-2020, 08:31 PM
RETIRED theater builder
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 33,741
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6704 Post(s)
Liked: 6591
Three things, you missed the opportunity to decouple the wall framing from the ceiling joists, vibration in the walls will be transmitted up to the bedroom, you are putting all your efforts in the ceiling, flanking sound up your wall cavities will undo all your good work, R1 (RC1?) is not what you should be using, Hat channel and isolation clips is. Keep your expectations for keeping all the sound from the bedroom realistic. Even if you did everything right low frequencies will still be heard in the bedroom and any other room adjacent to the theater.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 04-02-2020 at 08:36 PM.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #3 of 21 Old 04-03-2020, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
How would I decouple the steel stud wall from the ceiling? I'm not opposed to putting the effort in...it's not like I have drywall up or something like that.

I don't have to use the hat channel I have I could use drywall grid like I will on the soffits.

I thought I read on this forum that steel studs 24 OC are basically already decoupled due to the flex they have and channel and clips are not needed?

Thanks for the help thus far!
Defel Radar is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 21 Old 04-03-2020, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Also after looking around I cannot connect a return from the HT room direct to the HVAC return trunk of the house. I'm guessing I could just do a powered exhaust that would vent out? I do have one existing supply and guessing I would need to had another as well

Thanks!
Defel Radar is offline  
post #5 of 21 Old 04-03-2020, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defel Radar View Post
Also after looking around I cannot connect a return from the HT room direct to the HVAC return trunk of the house. I'm guessing I could just do a powered exhaust that would vent out? I do have one existing supply and guessing I would need to had another as well

Thanks!
After doing some research I might do a jumper duct from the HT room to a return...it might not be in line and curve around but at least I could get it attached to the return....
Defel Radar is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old 04-06-2020, 05:17 PM
Member
 
tweaek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 9
subscribed! I have a similar size room that I'd like to get started on, looks like I can learn a lot from what you've already started doing. Good luck!
tweaek is offline  
post #7 of 21 Old 04-09-2020, 06:38 PM
Member
 
genocide74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Elma, NY
Posts: 187
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 147
My room is essentially the same size as yours. I’ve got an active thread- in my sig- there’s a ton of pics and descriptions there. LMK if I can be of any help.
genocide74 is offline  
post #8 of 21 Old 04-15-2020, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Well between last weekend and a couple of evenings I redid my steel studded walls with IB-3 clips and made sure they were at 1" below the joist. I'll post pics later but two things I learned.

1.) I did not have the correct length self tapping screws to put the bracket into the steel track. So what I did instead was cut a block of 2x4 and put in the track and attached the clip that way. I then ran a screw through the side of the track into the wood block to secure it in place.

2.) Found it was very hard to try and screw in from the top down into the steel track with the bracket mounted to the joist. So instead I marked on the steel track where the studs were and where the IB-3 brackets needed to be mounted. (pics I post later will help illustrate this). This allowed me to build the structure first then mount it at the proper distance from the joists instead of fighting things. My 11 year-old could hold one end while I screwed the brackets to the joists.

3.) I started putting double drywall between the joists. I'm about halfway done with that task. If it measures 14-1/2" between joists cut the drywall 14-1/4" or 14-1/8" inches wide. The joists are never the same width between "bottom" and up against the subfloor above. Then buy some backer rod and fill in the gaps before you use acoustical sealant. I had my 11 year-old put the backer rod in while I messed with the IB-3 clips and reinstalling the steel studs.

4.) If you are using the 28oz tubes on the 14" strips and are wondering how much green glue to apply, here's what I did. Per Green Glue 2-28 oz tubes should be used per one 4x8 sheeet of drywall. Depending on how wide you are cutting the strips of drywall for the joists I basically figured 2/3 of a tube per strip. So on my caulking gun I took and put an empty tube in and used a sharpie to mark where "empty" was on the rod. Then I took a full tube and marked on the caulking gun where "full" was. Then I measured that length and divided it into 3rds so I could know how much to put on one strip. This really helped me initially to control the amount used. At $0.50/ounce I didn't want to skimp or go overboard.

Next I'm working on wiring both power and speakers wiring and finishing up the between joists DD w/green glue. I'm debating on what to do about side surrounds, rear surrounds and atmos in-ceiling any guidance would be appreciated!

Last edited by Defel Radar; 04-15-2020 at 12:04 PM.
Defel Radar is offline  
post #9 of 21 Old 04-15-2020, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Pics of IB-3 clips installed
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20200415_201220.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	797.4 KB
ID:	2710578   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200415_201150.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	729.8 KB
ID:	2710580   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200415_201123.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	679.3 KB
ID:	2710582   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200415_201100.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	700.9 KB
ID:	2710584  

Last edited by Defel Radar; 04-15-2020 at 05:36 PM. Reason: added pics
Defel Radar is offline  
post #10 of 21 Old 04-15-2020, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by genocide74 View Post
My room is essentially the same size as yours. I’ve got an active thread- in my sig- there’s a ton of pics and descriptions there. LMK if I can be of any help.
Thanks genocide74 I will definitely check out your build!! Thanks for the heads up and I'll probably pester you with some questions as well!
Defel Radar is offline  
post #11 of 21 Old 04-15-2020, 08:35 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
b_scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Des Plaines, IL
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 772 Post(s)
Liked: 328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defel Radar View Post
Pics of IB-3 clips installed
what size screws did you use to screw that 5/8" drywall between the joists?

Shadow Theater Build: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3141596-shadow-theater-build.html
b_scott is offline  
post #12 of 21 Old 04-16-2020, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_scott View Post
what size screws did you use to screw that 5/8" drywall between the joists?
Depending on how thick your subfloor is (you can find out by measuring at your HVAC vents potentially)
For the first layer I used 1-1/4" drywall screws because my subfloor is 3/4" + drywall is 5/8"
For the 2nd layer I used 1-5/8" drywall screws.

In another area of the house I did 1-5/8" on screws on the first layer and 2" screws on the 2nd layer and have found about a dozen poking through into the carpet. I had to take a hammer and bend them over on the upstairs in the carpet. I'll have to replace the carpet in a few years so when that happens in that area I'll just cut the screws off at that time. That could have been because I might have screwed up a few time using 2" screws on the first layer.

Hope that helps

Last edited by Defel Radar; 04-16-2020 at 08:15 AM.
Defel Radar is offline  
post #13 of 21 Old 04-16-2020, 08:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
b_scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Des Plaines, IL
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 772 Post(s)
Liked: 328
thanks!

Shadow Theater Build: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/3141596-shadow-theater-build.html
b_scott is offline  
post #14 of 21 Old 04-16-2020, 07:42 PM
RETIRED theater builder
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 33,741
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6704 Post(s)
Liked: 6591
I use 1 inch drywall screws on the first layer, then you don't have to worry about running up into hardwood floors or popping a tile.
not always on the shelf at HD but you can get them on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-MP...s%2C124&sr=8-2

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 04-16-2020 at 07:48 PM.
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #15 of 21 Old 04-17-2020, 06:38 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
b_scott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Des Plaines, IL
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 772 Post(s)
Liked: 328
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I use 1 inch drywall screws on the first layer, then you don't have to worry about running up into hardwood floors or popping a tile.
not always on the shelf at HD but you can get them on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-MP...s%2C124&sr=8-2
Thanks!

what size would you do for the second layer? 1 and 5/8"?

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group..._t2_B0778XYLZM

Last edited by b_scott; 04-17-2020 at 06:43 AM.
b_scott is offline  
post #16 of 21 Old 04-17-2020, 07:16 AM
RETIRED theater builder
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 33,741
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 5 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6704 Post(s)
Liked: 6591
BIGmouthinDC is offline  
post #17 of 21 Old 04-27-2020, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
I am nearly done with putting DD and GG between the joists and I am starting to plan out my speaker locations so I can frame them in with the wall. The in wall speakers will be similar to genocide74's https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ise-diy-7.html design. I'm hoping some can give some feed back on the layout. Much thanks!!

My finished room will be roughly 11' 4" wide x 19' 8" long and height of 8' 9" with two rows of seating.

The first row will be 9' 5" from the future screen wall that will be 2' from the actual wall.

Side Surrounds at 44" height
I am going to put as much of the surrounds in the wall as much as possible with backer boxes. I'm leaning towards HTM-6's or Volt 6's for the surrounds, but I am open to recommendations. I am going back and forth on 2 side surrounds vs 4 side surrounds. If only 2 side surrounds I was going to put them between the rows but I am concerned that the 16" bump in on the right wall will place the right side surround in an odd position.
If I do 4 side surrounds at 90 degrees from the rows then I don't have to worry about the bump out on the right wall in the picture.

Atmos
Based on the measurements I have made my 4 atmos speakers at 45 degrees from MLP will be almost 4 feet in front and behind the MLP. This seems a little far from the MLP but I was just basing it on Dolby's standards based on my ear height of 44" and ceiling height of 8' 9". Should the 4 atmos be that far in front and behind? I was planning on using Volt 6's or Rsl c34e due to the 15 degree angle they have.

Rears at 54" height based on 2nd row riser of 12"
The rears I was shooting to match whatever the sides were speaker wise but have them line up as close to the L & R Fronts as possible with that odd bump-in in the wall. (I can't change the bump in b/c it's a concrete external wall.

Thanks for the help!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	HT Speaker Layout.png
Views:	64
Size:	49.9 KB
ID:	2717444  
Defel Radar is offline  
post #18 of 21 Old 05-02-2020, 12:01 PM
Senior Member
 
A.T.M.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 223
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 71 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defel Radar View Post
Atmos This seems a little far from the MLP but I was just basing it on Dolby's standards based on my ear height of 44" and ceiling height of 8' 9". Should the 4 atmos be that far in front and behind? I was planning on using Volt 6's or Rsl c34e due to the 15 degree angle they have.

Thanks for the help!
I think that sounds about right for the atmos placement (45 deg). My room is about the same width and length with a 12" concrete bump--dang bumps suck.

Aaron

All ya need is love, and Hi Fi sound.
Asthetix, Audreal, Arcam FMJ, Musical Fidelity, Harmonix, Marantz, Tannoy, MIT, PS3, Sony Masters, OPPO

Last edited by A.T.M.; 05-02-2020 at 12:08 PM.
A.T.M. is offline  
post #19 of 21 Old 05-03-2020, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
So I spent the weekend running wires and installing the IB-1 clips.

As far as wiring goes I have 3 dedicated circuits and 1 general lighting circuit.
1st 20 Amp circuit will be for the 5 outlets in the room (3 outlets for power seats in the future, two for general purpose) then another outlet in the back of the room for the projector.
2nd 20 Amp circuit is for the Receiver, HTPC, XBOX, Router and maybe some other equipment
3rd 20 Amp circuit is for the subs in the future or other equipment.
Last is the general lighting circuit that is for the LED Strip lighting and 3-4 other lights in the room. This circuit is already used for another room next to the HT room but will have one LED light on it.

I ran the speaker wires for the L and R with boxes in the front of the room. Then put the start of the framing in for the side and back surrounds. and ran those speaker wires (12 gauge).

I also ran two ethernet CAT6 cables to the front of the room as well.

As far as the IB-1 Clip installation I was to clearly get most of them up and in the right pattern/spread. There is one area with the trap shown in the pics where I am trying to figure out how to run the hat channel. I think I remember BIG saying he would run an extra channel to support a soffitt. I am trying to do the DD & GG the ceiling first then worry about building the soffitts but you have to have something for the soffitt to attach to hence running extra channel where the vertical piece of the soffitt will connect in. I don't know if the pics are clear with my delima but with the trap and two copper pipes I am thinking of just building the soffitt and DD & GG the soffitt. I would prefer to put the ceiling in then build the soffitt but I don't know if it is worth the headache of running the channel through that area.

Thanks for all the help and more to come!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20200503_161713.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	780.3 KB
ID:	2720630   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200503_161650.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	1.04 MB
ID:	2720632   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200503_161617.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	973.9 KB
ID:	2720634   Click image for larger version

Name:	20200503_161637.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	1.05 MB
ID:	2720642  
Defel Radar is offline  
post #20 of 21 Old 05-03-2020, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by A.T.M. View Post
I think that sounds about right for the atmos placement (45 deg). My room is about the same width and length with a 12" concrete bump--dang bumps suck.

Aaron
Thanks for the reassurance I'll stay with the Dolby 45 degree plan!
Defel Radar is offline  
post #21 of 21 Old 05-22-2020, 11:40 PM
Member
 
tweaek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defel Radar View Post
Side Surrounds at 44" height
I am going to put as much of the surrounds in the wall as much as possible with backer boxes. I'm leaning towards HTM-6's or Volt 6's for the surrounds, but I am open to recommendations. I am going back and forth on 2 side surrounds vs 4 side surrounds. If only 2 side surrounds I was going to put them between the rows but I am concerned that the 16" bump in on the right wall will place the right side surround in an odd position.
If I do 4 side surrounds at 90 degrees from the rows then I don't have to worry about the bump out on the right wall in the picture.
I read in another post that recommendations if you’re doing side surrounds which aren’t bi/di-pole should be put 1 ft forward of the MLP. I believe BIG was one of the people who commented in that thread. Wondering if you’ve taken that into consideration and decided against it?

I’m planning on doing 2 rows as well and anticipate 2 rows of surrounds, both 1ft forward of where listeners heads would be. Curious to see if anybody chimes in on your 90 degree positioning and what your results are when you get there.

Looks like things are coming along nicely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tweaek is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off