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post #31 of 57 Old 05-15-2020, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The floor has arrived! And the walls, ceiling, green glue, and underlayment are already piled in the room. A fun weekend is to be had by all!

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post #32 of 57 Old 05-15-2020, 12:58 PM
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Looks like the start of something great!!

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post #33 of 57 Old 05-18-2020, 10:39 AM
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Looks like a great project in the making. Kudos on going all out rather than settling for the pre-existing room.
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post #34 of 57 Old 05-18-2020, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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So, I’m going to try the TapaTalk app for the first time. Hopefully this makes uploading pictures easier, since I take most of them with my phone anyway.

Here was the room on Saturday morning. Cleared out the clutter and just left stuff I will actually be using in this phase of the projects. (Except the subwoofers because I don’t feel like moving them out of the room. It is “storage” after all.)





Had fun with the drywall lift. Not sure how I did the last theater without one. This is one of the most useful money saving tools I’ve bought. Definitely levels the playing field for us DIY guys. The builder wanted some astronomical fee for hanging drywall. For $100 at Northern Tool I can do it myself.





And this is where I ended Saturday evening.



One layer of drywall on the ceiling. I’ll caulk the seams this week after work and get ready for the walls.

Hauled 14 sheets of flooring up stairs, too. So I’ll get to work on that shortly as well.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #35 of 57 Old 05-18-2020, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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It worked! Nice.
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post #36 of 57 Old 05-18-2020, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm waiting for the question "Why is there R-13 insulation on your ceiling?"

The builder insulated with R-38 and stuffed it between the joists. But it was uneven - as were the joists - so "friction fit" was not optimal. If I pulled it down to full the joist bays, I found some of it wanted to fall out. So the R-38 was only insulating the top half of the joists, and I figured there were gaps in the attic between the batts, so probably not effective as R-38. I made sure the R-38 was down most of the way into the space, and then stapled R-13 to the bottom of the joists. That way I have added additional insulation, stapled in the bottom layer so it doesn't slouch out of the joists, and introduced a weak vapor barrier to the extent it provides any benefit at all. (The attic gets 140 degrees and humid on a hot summer day, so every bit should help a little.)

R-15 on the walls, as is the current code here in NC.
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post #37 of 57 Old 05-19-2020, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some flooring down this evening. Rolled out some 15 foot strips of Privacy Ultimate Underlay heavy rubber so I could float a double OSB floor. Joined the seams in the rubber with regular single sided carpet tape.







Nikki watched. Not much of a help.





I didn’t realize a 4x8 sheet of T&G OSB is only 47-5/8” wide. So I have a 2” gap at the left and right edges. I had it planned so perfectly too! The room is 16’2” wide so four sheets was going to give me a 1” gap. Now the first layer of drywall is barely going to overlap the first layer of floor on the sides. Oh well. Not sure I would have done it differently. Maybe turning the boards 90 degrees would have reduced the gap but even the length is short of 96 inches.



Building the room with the materials and tools in the room is like those picture puzzle games with one square missing. You move everything around the room several times as you go, uncovering sections to work on in sequential order. Except that all of the pieces weigh 100 pounds.

Maybe some walls tomorrow!
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post #38 of 57 Old 05-21-2020, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I invented a measuring stick. Probably been invented by thousands of people but I just never knew about it.

My laser distance tool has a 1/4-20 threaded hole on the back, presumably for mounting on a tripod. I mounted the laser on a stick with a 1/4-20 bolt and then chopped off the end of the stick so the foot was exactly 5 feet from the internal reference point for the laser (which I have found is not quite the butt end of the Tool as it’s own instructions say).

So now I don’t have to lay down on the floor to read the distance from floor to ceiling. Or climb the ladder to get a measurement with a tape measure jammed in the corner. I can stand it against the wall and get an accurate reading from slightly below my own eye level and just add 5 feet to it. Brilliant!



And managed to get two half sheets into the corner.



I had to recut my floor shims so I quit for the night. I cut them 1/4” in hopes of a 1/4” gap. But the end of the OSB “hovers” over the rubber floor ever so slightly. The weight of the drywall on the shim pushes down the OSB and the rubber while I am hanging it, and then rebounds when I remove the shim so there is a gap but it’s probably closer to 1/8”. I cut thicker shims to keep it a little further off the floor. Hopefully that does the trick.
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post #39 of 57 Old 05-21-2020, 08:06 AM
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Looks great! One question why the gap at the top where the wall meets the ceiling?
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post #40 of 57 Old 05-21-2020, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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So the wall can flex independent of the ceiling. I was going to seal it with caulk before the second layer.

Is that not recommended? I was under the impression that it was.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #41 of 57 Old 05-21-2020, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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You've got me second guessing myself now.

The Genie Clip RST instructions say "Install gypsum board (drywall) from the bottom up leaving ¼” spacing (min) around total perimeter." I'm not going to leave the gap between adjacent sheets but I am going to leave the gap at the top and the bottom.

This is the effect I am trying to achieve:



except with two layers instead of three.

I've seen similar drawings from people who sell caulk, but they may be biased.
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post #42 of 57 Old 05-21-2020, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I’m moving ahead anyway. I think the cascading corners with caulk will be fine.

Half-way done with the first layer of drywall on the walls and OSB on the floor.

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post #43 of 57 Old 05-22-2020, 06:15 AM
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Ahh just never seen that before. Thanks for sharing.

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post #44 of 57 Old 05-24-2020, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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The obligatory build thread photo of green glue abstract art.
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post #45 of 57 Old 05-24-2020, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Second layer of ceiling going up ...



... second layer of floor going down.

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post #46 of 57 Old 05-25-2020, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Seems like I have been working nonstop all weekend. The disheartening thing is that I appear to only be half done.




It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #47 of 57 Old 05-25-2020, 09:47 AM
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Looking good! You'll get there just takes time...a lot of time, I'm on month 22 of what I foolishly thought would be a 6 mo project so you're moving way faster than I am lol

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post #48 of 57 Old 05-25-2020, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post
Seems like I have been working nonstop all weekend. The disheartening thing is that I appear to only be half done.



Halfway finished one of the most challenging parts of the build is pretty amazing in the time you have been working on the walls, ceiling and floors. Sometimes it is hard to appreciate all the progress along the journey when you are the one driving the car. It just looks like miles going by. But the rest of us passengers can certainly see how far along you truly are.

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post #49 of 57 Old Yesterday, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for the encouragement!

At our management meeting this afternoon, we all had to give a single word we would want to focus on for the week. I chose "Satisfied." I tend to set my expectations quite high, and am often dissatisfied with the amount of work I get done toward these self-imposed milestones. So I am going to set more realistic goals, and celebrate the success as they come. Be Satisfied with the accomplishments I am able to achieve.

Except when I think back to yesterday, I ran out of materials. I underestimated the amount of rubber flooring underlayment I needed, so I couldn't finish the floor yesterday. It's not something you can run out to the home depot to buy. I was less than satisfied with my progress ... :-)

But today I am back in business. Bought another case of Acoustical Sealant, another 4'x15' roll of rubber flooring, and I'm G2G. Satisfied.
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post #50 of 57 Old Yesterday, 02:57 PM
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You definitely set high expectations. Nothing wrong with that. Remember the reason you fall short isn't effort, it is the unknown that derails a project, when it comes to you. For other people they fail because the effort is the unknown, because they aren't willing to put in the hard work and the time.



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post #51 of 57 Old Yesterday, 03:25 PM
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Enjoying this; sub’d
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post #52 of 57 Old Today, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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A 4’x15’ roll of 12mm rubber underlay is deceptively heavy.



But a quick trip to the Sound Isolation Company and I was back in business.

I had some leftover 8mm rubber floor from the gym, so i pieced together a complete rubber underlay with old stuff and new stuff.



And I have to admit, I outsmarted myself. The old floor is 8mm. The new stuff comes in 5mm, 10mm, and 12mm. I decided I would use 3/4” OSB for the first layer over the 8mm and then use 5/8mm over a new 10mm underlay, and they would come out close enough. Then put 3/4 over the whole thing for a second layer. But I got them reversed in my mind at some point, and I put down 10mm in the front of the room with 3/4” OSB over the top of it, leaving 5/8” OSB to go over the 8mm rubber - double whammy.

Since I needed an extra roll anyway, I bought 12mm. So 12mm plus 5/8” OSB is pretty darn close to the 10mm plus 3/4” OSB, so that worked out well. But then it steps down from 12mm to 8mm rubber with a bit of a discontinuity.



I’m going to live with it. With the way I am laying the OSB, it occurs at the midpoint of an 8 foot sheet. I feel it bridges the gap just fine. It’s all under the riser, anyway. And if the riser is off by 4 or 5 mm at the back edge I can make up the difference in how I lay the joists.

Besides, I don’t think the framers were that close in some spots.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #53 of 57 Old Today, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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For speaker wires and A/V cables, I ran three 2” conduit elbows over the top plate of the wall. When they put the addition on, they left the old roof, so the roof comes down to about a foot above the top plate of the wall between the theater and the pub. It is nearly impossible to drill into the top of the wall to get cables in, so adding the conduits now will make sure I have access.



Before I put up the Sheetrock, I ran the elbows over the wall and put a 10’ piece of conduit on the other end of each. The conduit lays between the ceiling joists of the pub, so it is isolated, but I also put a hat channel on clips at the far end and attached to it, so it is fastened in a decoupled way as well.

I drilled three holes in a scrap piece of 1/2” MDF so I could mount the theater end to the decoupled ceiling and drywall around it after pulling the insulation back into place. I also added a straight 2” union to the end of the conduit elbow poking through the hole so it wouldn’t back out on me as I fussed with it.



With the conduits poking through the drywall, I attached a small frame out of scrap MDF and plywood. There are extra hat channels mounted around the hole for additional attachment points.



So the elbows are resiliently attached at the theater end (suspended from the decoupled drywall and hat channels). The top of the elbow is suspended in the space and insulation between the top plate and the old roof, the conduit is partially laying on R-30 bats and partially suspended all the way back to the access hatch in the pub ceiling, and mounted to a hat channel on clips at the far end. Should be secure and decoupled.

Then I pumped the theater end full of spray foam.




Satisfied, I am.
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post #54 of 57 Old Today, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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The mini split line set and condensate drain come down the wall, across the room, and down into the gym below. The plumbers were no carpenters, so their hole in the floor was rather large.

I cut rubber to fit closely around the two line sets and two drain lines to close up most of the hole. Then I filled it up with spray foam to seal it up around the pipes and the rubber, and cut the OSB to fit around it.





And with that, I was able to complete layer one of the floor last night.

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Amazing amount of progress so far!!

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post #56 of 57 Old Today, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I took the night off for family game night. I needed a break and I just wasn’t into the manual labor of throwing around sheets of drywall.

I added some more insulation to the refrigerant line of the mini split. There was a separation in the Armaflex so about 2” of copper was exposed and water was condensing on it and wetting the fiberglass batts. Not much, but enough to make me want to fix it before I closed it in. Without drywall the room feels a little humid so the exposed copper with high humidity probably added to the problem. Got it taken care of now, I think.

Even with taking the night off and working on the AC I managed to get most of the first layer of drywall up on the back wall. Left a panel off so I could check on my repair.


It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #57 of 57 Old Today, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Amazing amount of progress so far!!

Thank you! My hope is to have the room drywalled and floored, riser built, and rough electrical inspected by Father’s Day.

Things will slow down after I go back to the daily commute, I’m sure. Have to make hay while the sun is shining, or whatever the saying is.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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