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post #61 of 128 Old 05-29-2020, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I agree! Walnut is my favorite of the non-exotic species for furniture. I built my daughter’s crib out of regular black walnut. I was shopping for lumber for a dresser a few years later and the shop had gotten the wrong shipment from their supplier. They got a shipment of Peruvian Walnut instead of black walnut. Their supplier said to keep it. Cheaper to eat the cost of the difference in board feet than to send an LTL truck to get it. So the shop was selling it at black walnut prices. Score! So I built a dresser of the Peruvian Walnut and loved the color. And that’s why I had some left downstairs in the shop.

I trimmed the last theater in walnut. I tried hard to like stain on red oak but the aggressive grain was not the look I wanted. With a Peruvian door jamb, I might need to get a load of Peruvian delivered when it comes time to trim this theater.
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post #62 of 128 Old 05-29-2020, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Today I finished the door jamb extension. Sanded off the paint/primer from the edge of the existing door jamb, edge glued the walnut, clamped it and pocket screwed it. Very sturdy.






Added some 3 inch angle iron for reinforcement on the non-hinge sides.




Added studs to the hinge side for some bite for the hinges.



So now I can move ahead with drywall on the door wall.
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post #63 of 128 Old 05-29-2020, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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It also turns out 1” armaflex fits right over the original armaflex the HVAC installers used, so I double insulated the refrigerant lines this morning and let it run nonstop in dehumidifier mode. Not a drop of condensation. So I am walling those lines up and calling it done.



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post #64 of 128 Old 05-29-2020, 10:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I got to thinking about fresh air in the theater. There is none. No windows and no central air to keep fresh air coming in. I’ll have to dead vent a supply and return register.

I put a 12”x4” to 6” register boot above the door. I think I’ve seen elsewhere in this forum about dead vent supplies in the rear soffit. I am thinking I can run flex duct through a serpentine insulated DD box and terminate with slot diffusers just behind the back row.

I have access to the other side of the wall in the pub closet up front so I can put a fan in a dead vent in the closet and dump the air back into the conditioned pub (opposite end from the vent I just cut for a supply).

Hope I am thinking about this correctly. I’ll search the forum in the morning to confirm.

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post #65 of 128 Old 05-29-2020, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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But for now I am out of gas. That register took longer than I wanted it to, so I still have two pieces of drywall to hang: the one where the register pokes through and another one where the light switch will probably poke through. Tomorrow is another day.


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post #66 of 128 Old 05-30-2020, 03:25 AM
 
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Thanks for sharing all the progress you have been making. That is one helluva door you got there. This is going to be an amazing theater.

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post #67 of 128 Old 05-30-2020, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Thanks for sharing all the progress you have been making. That is one helluva door you got there. This is going to be an amazing theater.
Thanks! I'm happy you are reading it!

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post #68 of 128 Old 05-30-2020, 06:58 AM
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I got to thinking about fresh air in the theater. There is none. No windows and no central air to keep fresh air coming in. I’ll have to dead vent a supply and return register.

I put a 12”x4” to 6” register boot above the door. I think I’ve seen elsewhere in this forum about dead vent supplies in the rear soffit. I am thinking I can run flex duct through a serpentine insulated DD box and terminate with slot diffusers just behind the back row.

I have access to the other side of the wall in the pub closet up front so I can put a fan in a dead vent in the closet and dump the air back into the conditioned pub (opposite end from the vent I just cut for a supply).

Hope I am thinking about this correctly. I’ll search the forum in the morning to confirm.
Room is looking awesome! You are on the right track with the dead vent supply and returns. Our's are on low whenever we are in the room just to keep things circulating so the air doesn't get stale.

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post #69 of 128 Old 05-30-2020, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks. I’ll fashion something after I get the soundproof envelope finished. I was reading some posts from a few years ago and it seems that is the best way to go.
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post #70 of 128 Old 05-30-2020, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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So, today I managed to get the first layer of drywall complete, including pulling the light circuit through up in the soffit and drywall around the fresh air register boot.







Put a bead of caulk in the remaining first layer seams and finished the entire second layer of floor. Including hauling up the remaining sheets of OSB. I can’t wait until that activity ends. Maybe once I get the MDF for the riser and stage upstairs I’ll be done with sheet goods.



Second layer of ceiling tomorrow and then I’ll see how far I can get on the remaining walls.
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post #71 of 128 Old 05-31-2020, 05:14 AM
 
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Just keep swimming.. just keep swimming..this will be an amazing theater

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post #72 of 128 Old 05-31-2020, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I have been told (and I happen to agree) that facing a standard ported box subwoofer’s driver toward the seats (from the screen wall, perpendicular to the screen) will produce the best low frequency performance.

But how much performance will I actually lose if I turn the driver toward the side wall (from the center of the screen wall, parallel to the screen)?

I can squeeze out another 9” of depth in the room if I turn the sub 90 degrees, making the false screen wall 21” deep instead of 30”. Is it worth it for 9 inches of room depth?

The sub is 27” deep, with no ports on the back. All I need is room for the XLR connector in the back, but 30” is probably pretty close to nominal depth for design purposes.

There is a 4” port about 3” from the side in the front. I think the port needs to be one port diameter away from the wall so if I turn it sideways the 20.5” width will probably stick out a minimum of 22”.

Maybe it’s not worth it for 8 or 9 inches.

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post #73 of 128 Old 05-31-2020, 02:45 PM
 
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I have been told (and I happen to agree) that facing a standard ported box subwoofer’s driver toward the seats (from the screen wall, perpendicular to the screen) will produce the best low frequency performance.

But how much performance will I actually lose if I turn the driver toward the side wall (from the center of the screen wall, parallel to the screen)?

I can squeeze out another 9” of depth in the room if I turn the sub 90 degrees, making the false screen wall 21” deep instead of 30”. Is it worth it for 9 inches of room depth?

The sub is 27” deep, with no ports on the back. All I need is room for the XLR connector in the back, but 30” is probably pretty close to nominal depth for design purposes.

There is a 4” port about 3” from the side in the front. I think the port needs to be one port diameter away from the wall so if I turn it sideways the 20.5” width will probably stick out a minimum of 22”.

Maybe it’s not worth it for 8 or 9 inches.
What about on an angle but with port and drivers still pointed to the MLP? If you have the horizontal space to do so if would save you some depth behind the screen wall.

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post #74 of 128 Old 05-31-2020, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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If my math is correct, that gives me about 18.5 degrees of rotation before the front corner sticks out as far as the sub would if I just turned it 90 degrees. I see what you are suggesting, but I don't think it will buy me a lot of additional room. I'll have to wrestle with this question.

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post #75 of 128 Old 05-31-2020, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Most of the room I have been able to double drywall without obstructions at all. In the back right corner, the mini split line set comes down the wall in the stud bay, but then juts out and across the face of the studs. They stick out just far enough to have to notch the first layer of drywall around them. The hat channel just isn't deep enough.





The second layer of drywall does just fine, straight down to the floor.

So the conundrum is ... is a single layer of drywall (decoupled with clips and hat channel) sufficient for like 6" high and 7 feet long? Or do I attach a second layer of drywall along the bottom 6 inches?

There is also a riser going in. I believe the riser goes up against the back wall - no additional decoupling, correct? Can I just effectively use the perimeter 2x10 as the second layer?

Reading the stuff I've found on the forum, even back the 2003 Erskine article that is oft quoted, I see a 1/4" separation with insulation jammed in the gap, but I've seen other designed where the riser is firmly attached to the channels on top of the decoupled drywall.

Recap:
1. Bolt the riser to the channels on top of the decoupled drywall
2. Add a 6" high pieces of drywall as a second layer and butt the riser up to it
3. Leave is as a single layer

Any thoughts? Sage wisdom here may save me some rework in the coming months ...

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post #76 of 128 Old 06-01-2020, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I was able to hang four more sheets of drywall this evening - the four with the obstructions in the back corner by the door. That should be the most difficult section of the room. Got everything caulked around the door.





Tomorrow I’ll box in the drain pipes and line sets from the mini split with a green glue sandwich box. And I guess I’ll add an 8” strip of drywall along the bottom of the back wall so it is as damped as the rest of the room. The riser will hide the discontinuity of the drywall.
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post #77 of 128 Old 06-01-2020, 08:58 PM
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That should be fine to add another piece like you suggest. When I built my riser I was advised that you don’t need to attach it to the back wall the weight of it and carpeting will prevent it from moving. Looking good!
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post #78 of 128 Old 06-02-2020, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I ran out of screws! I was so finishing tonight. One sheet left.


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post #79 of 128 Old 06-03-2020, 08:57 AM
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sooo close, Looks great!
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post #80 of 128 Old 06-07-2020, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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On Wednesday I did go get more screws and finished hanging the drywall.

Yesterday I boxed in the two mini split line sets and drain lines with some plywood and green glue and 2x4s cut to fit.



After much reflection and some consultation, I added an 8” strip of drywall along the back with some green glue and coarse drywall screws. Looks hideous, but it will be behind the riser frame so it won’t be visible for much longer.





I also pulled the house power, projector, and two subwoofer circuits into the room. The house power is just for the chairs and general purpose receptacles. The projector and subwoofers are powerbridge pass through. (Well, a DIY inlet/outlet pair.)



Lighting is on a separate lighting circuit from the pub. Already had that in the room.
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post #81 of 128 Old 06-07-2020, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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And then I spent the today taping. Got all the flat seams taped and screws covered. All of the inside corners already have acoustical sealant caulk in them, so that is one complete pass on all the drywall, with the tape. I’ll make a second pass on the whole thing and call it quits. None of it will be seen, but I’ll add a second layer of mud for strength.





That took me close to 9 hours, so I probably won’t get the second pass done until mid week if I do it in sections.

I put the lighting circuit in a junction box, too. I’ll run all the individual lighting runs out of this box (sconces, wall down lights, screen down lights, riser step lights, rear track light).


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post #82 of 128 Old 06-11-2020, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Yep ... I suck at drywall.



Second coat of mud is done. Scrape it and prime it tomorrow. Hopefully no sanding.

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post #83 of 128 Old 06-11-2020, 09:21 PM
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Yep ... I suck at drywall.



Second coat of mud is done. Scrape it and prime it tomorrow. Hopefully no sanding.

You’re a freaking machine good work!
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post #84 of 128 Old 06-12-2020, 12:04 AM
 
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Yep ... I suck at drywall.



Second coat of mud is done. Scrape it and prime it tomorrow. Hopefully no sanding.
You are such a perfectionist. Way too hard on yourself. You continue to do a great job. Keep it up.

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I am a firm believer that some things just take more practice than most of us will get in a lifetime, for me drywall taping is one of those. Having said that looks good to me
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post #86 of 128 Old 06-12-2020, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, drywall isn’t one of those skills I am going to pick up any time soon. Especially with the infrequency I do it.
@BIGmouthinDC thought I might have shorted myself some mud on the ceiling, especially the butt joint that runs front to back. I have to admit, my mudding is a bit of a hack job. The current plan was zero exposed drywall, but there is a chance the ceiling may be exposed in portions, so he’s right - probably need a better feather on the center of the ceiling.

I watched another YouTube video, the modern equivalent of staying at a Holiday Inn Express, so now I am an expert.

I cleared out the remaining drywall on the floor so I could get a good attack vector. Grabbed a wide knife and a pan of mud. Laid it on wide and then put some muscle into it to flex the knife. I have to admit, the third coat feathered quite well. I’ll see what it looks like tonight. Maybe it’s done now.

Think I’ll do the tapered joints between the soffits too.

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post #87 of 128 Old 06-12-2020, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks better now too. Maybe I will sand the ceiling tomorrow. Just knock down the walls but do the ceiling as if it were going to be visible in case I decide it will be.




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post #88 of 128 Old 06-13-2020, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The weather is fully cooperating with my project schedule. Upper 70’s / Low 80’s and fairly low humidity this weekend. Great weekend to turn off the air conditioner and finish the drywall.



I scraped down all the “clicks” of random mud blobs and knife ridges. I’ll run a vacuum drywall sander over the middle of the ceiling and get some primer on the walls this afternoon.
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post #89 of 128 Old 06-14-2020, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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It seems like every thing I do in the theater right now finishes with, “that’s the worst of it. It will get easier from here.” Hanging 10-foot sheets of drywall on the ceiling. Proving my taping and mudding skills are nonexistent.

In today’s episode of “why I went to college,” sanding the ceiling flat in a room with no ventilation (I sealed up the door with plastic sheeting), no air conditioner, a rising humidity level, and a shop vac and 500 watt halogen bulb pumping heat into the room.
I don’t think I’ve gotten that kind of upper body workout since I actually was in college.

The shop vac attachment is great though. Had this for years and I didn’t really get a whole lot of dust in the room.



One good pass at 120 grit, a final pass at 180 grit, and I think the ceiling really could pass for a finished ceiling.




Ceiling is 386 square feet. Apparently a can of primer covers 370 square feet.


It’s still wet in the photo. The roller lines blended in nicely. I need two more cans for the walls, and I bet they don’t match the ceiling color. It’s primer anyway.

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Quote:
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It seems like every thing I do in the theater right now finishes with, “that’s the worst of it. It will get easier from here.” Hanging 10-foot sheets of drywall on the ceiling. Proving my taping and mudding skills are nonexistent.

In today’s episode of “why I went to college,” sanding the ceiling flat in a room with no ventilation (I sealed up the door with plastic sheeting), no air conditioner, a rising humidity level, and a shop vac and 500 watt halogen bulb pumping heat into the room.
I don’t think I’ve gotten that kind of upper body workout since I actually was in college.

The shop vac attachment is great though. Had this for years and I didn’t really get a whole lot of dust in the room.



One good pass at 120 grit, a final pass at 180 grit, and I think the ceiling really could pass for a finished ceiling.




Ceiling is 386 square feet. Apparently a can of primer covers 370 square feet.


It’s still wet in the photo. The roller lines blended in nicely. I need two more cans for the walls, and I bet they don’t match the ceiling color. It’s primer anyway.

a) The thing that most people say to pay someone else to do on AVS forums, in my experience, is drywall and muddying. Kudos on figuring out how to do it and sharing your pain
b) Your commentary cracks me up, keep it up
c) Nice work!
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