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post #1 of 12 Old 05-20-2020, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Draft design

Hey group. I never thought it possible, but my wife agreed (fairly easily might I add) to a dedicated HT in our new, (hopefully) forever home. Our plan is to finish the basement early next year, so I have time.

I got so excited, I took to sketchup for the first time. I’m not great at it, but I was amazed at the result I was able to achieve in a day of YT tutorials and play. This will be built by a builder.

Anywho here are the plans so far:
-Dimensions: 13.5x23.5ft (some subject to change)
-Separate AV rack area (near the sump pump area)
-AT screen. Planning 135 inches (is this OK? Too big?)
-MLP about 13’ away
-2x3 seating. Row two on riser
-50/50 movies/streaming Netflix, Disney+, etc
-light controlled (no windows)
-Sound dampening: 2x 5/8 drywall and green glue. I’m not planning to go too crazy here. On the level of good, better, best, decoupling I’ll choose better. Most of the time the entire family will be in here.

-Planned AV equipment: Epson 5050, 130+in 16:9 AT SI screen. Still working on speakers, but latest thought is a 7.2.4: 3x DIYSG HTM-12 LCR, Volt 6s/8s for surrounds, still working on atmos, maranta 7705, monolith 9ch amp. I’d REALLY prefer in wall surrounds and atmos. WAF is sketchy so I must tread lightly, hence the e.g. AT screen. I have some old equipment which I may sell for cash - Denon x1500h, 2x klipsch RP-150, 404c, and a couple Polk OMW3s. That, or I’ll put those in my master/loft.

I have ZERO skill with this stuff and I’d consider myself mostly a noob...just what I’ve picked up from various forums so far.

I’m open to comments, questions, feedback!
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post #2 of 12 Old 05-20-2020, 04:17 PM
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Not sure I understand the door between the speaker area and the utility room, screens are usually mounted with lift off Zclips making access to the speaker area pretty quick. And it usually doesn't need to happen very often. Is the equipment rack blocking full use of that other door to do service and maintenance to the other equipment?

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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Not sure I understand the door between the speaker area and the utility room, screens are usually mounted with lift off Zclips making access to the speaker area pretty quick. And it usually doesn't need to happen very often. Is the equipment rack blocking full use of that other door to do service and maintenance to the other equipment?
Thanks for the thoughts. As for the door, I just thought since I had access, why not, easy access to AV and no need to remove equipment. Maybe it would just be more of an issue with vibration and sound transmission? I’ve seen the use of something like French cleats to hold on screens. I suppose that WOULD save me money. I’ll give that one another thought.

I don’t have an official AV rack yet, but I don’t think it should block access. I planned at least 3 feet in that space and nothing else goes in there. I think maintenance could get in there if needed? I’ll double check on that spacing though.
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-20-2020, 06:43 PM
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I would consider building a closet to the left of the utility closet door way, what looks like is in the workout room, with the gear accessible towards the front of the room, on the right hand side. Move the door you planned on putting behind the screen into this new closet. Use a 19" rack. All gear would then be accessible inside the room, but the backside could be accessible through the closet door, outside the room .


EDIT: I would not install it behind the screen as you have it currently layed out.

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post #5 of 12 Old 05-21-2020, 05:18 AM
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What is the small closet behind the theater for? That looks like a good spot for a rack, to showcase your gear and have them accessible, and easy access from in the closet if you needed to get to the back of the rack.
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-21-2020, 06:49 AM
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Here's my standard spiel about finishing a theater is to go ahead and pre-wire for 9.x.6 ATMOS even though you are only planning 7.x.4 now. You might never add speakers, but pre-wiring now is cheap and easy to do, and it would be more difficult and invasive after drywall is up. I'd use Monoprice 12/2 speaker wire (or any other brand of copper (not CCA) 12/2 speaker wire.



I would add a conduit from your equipment rack to your projector in case you ever want to run a new cable to your projector. In my first build (~2005) I ran in wall Component Video and DVI to my display and guess what HDMI came out soon after and then they started limiting HD over non-HD connections. If your HDMI run is over 25' you'll probably need a fiber optic HDMI cable. If your run is under 25' feet a certified HDMI cable should work, but I'd verify it works with 4K/60 before you mount everything and run it to your projector. I did have some older HDMI cables (even marked high speed) that wouldn't pass 4K signals - luckily my 25' cable to my projector was fine, so everything was easy to change, but it's worth checking early.



I'd also make sure you run Cat-6 to your equipment rack and plan on having a network switch. This will not only give you the best streaming experience (no-wifi issues) but will let you hook all your equipment to the internet for software updates, etc.



I'd also suggest running your projector through a "power bridge" so you can run your projector to a UPS - this way if the power goes out while your projector's running you can shut it down and let the fan run and continue to cool the bulb during the normal power down cycle. I'd also suggest whole house surge protection if you don't have something like that already.



As for equipment you've got some time to get that figured out but you've made some decent picks already.


For a projector, the Epson is a nice choice (though it's white which would drive me crazy - says the guy with the white mini split). I'd also check out the JVC X790/RS540, especially for your completely light controlled room.



I love your speaker choice - the DIYSG Options are a super value. I'd save a little money and get the HT-12's instead of the HTM-12's but you certainly can't go wrong either way. I'd suggest HT-8's for surround duty (or HT-6's if they ever return to the site), but if you need in-walls for WAF, I might look at the HSU In-Walls. For Atmos speakers, the general suggestion is the RSLC34E's so that's probably what I'd go with.



For subs, what about a pair of DIY Devastators? You could hide them behind the screen and they'd have fantastic output. You could also build two (or four) VBSS subs as an alternate choice. They are a great value, and easier to build. I'm building dual driver VBSS's starting tomorrow!



Since you are using high efficiency speakers, I'd recommend going with an 11 channel receiver like the Denon 6500 over the Marantz/Monolith combo unless you just want separates. The Marantz doesn't really offer anything the Denon doesn't and the Marantz didn't test very well at Audio Science Review. The Monolith amp (made by ATI) is a really nice amp, but I'm not sure you'll need the extra horsepower.



I'd recommend a Panasonic UB420 for your UHD Blu-Ray player for it's HDR Optimizer which works particularly well with projectors. The UB820 and 9000 use the same optimizer and don't offer a whole lot more for projectors then the 420. I'd then get either a Apple TV or a Nvidia Shield Pro to use as a streamer and call it a day.
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3.1 Living Room: Samsung 64” F8500 Plasma, Anthem MRX 300, Dynaudio Audience 52’s, Dynaudio Audience 122C, NHT SubOne, Roku Express (2019)
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-21-2020, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexaPr0 View Post
I don’t have an official AV rack yet, but I don’t think it should block access. I planned at least 3 feet in that space and nothing else goes in there. I think maintenance could get in there if needed? I’ll double check on that spacing though.

Can't tell if that is a sump pump or a water heater in that area, code is you need to have a way of getting the largest object in and out of the room. The rack I have used many times is 24x24 so that would be hard to walk past in a 3 ft space. They do make them smaller.
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-21-2020, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexaPr0 View Post
Hey group. I never thought it possible, but my wife agreed (fairly easily might I add) to a dedicated HT in our new, (hopefully) forever home. Our plan is to finish the basement early next year, so I have time.

I got so excited, I took to sketchup for the first time. I’m not great at it, but I was amazed at the result I was able to achieve in a day of YT tutorials and play. This will be built by a builder.

Anywho here are the plans so far:
-Dimensions: 13.5x23.5ft (some subject to change)
-Separate AV rack area (near the sump pump area)
-AT screen. Planning 135 inches (is this OK? Too big?)
-MLP about 13’ away
-2x3 seating. Row two on riser
-50/50 movies/streaming Netflix, Disney+, etc
-light controlled (no windows)
-Sound dampening: 2x 5/8 drywall and green glue. I’m not planning to go too crazy here. On the level of good, better, best, decoupling I’ll choose better. Most of the time the entire family will be in here.

-Planned AV equipment: Epson 5050, 130+in 16:9 AT SI screen. Still working on speakers, but latest thought is a 7.2.4: 3x DIYSG HTM-12 LCR, Volt 6s/8s for surrounds, still working on atmos, maranta 7705, monolith 9ch amp. I’d REALLY prefer in wall surrounds and atmos. WAF is sketchy so I must tread lightly, hence the e.g. AT screen. I have some old equipment which I may sell for cash - Denon x1500h, 2x klipsch RP-150, 404c, and a couple Polk OMW3s. That, or I’ll put those in my master/loft.

I have ZERO skill with this stuff and I’d consider myself mostly a noob...just what I’ve picked up from various forums so far.

I’m open to comments, questions, feedback!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
I would consider building a closet to the left of the utility closet door way, what looks like is in the workout room, with the gear accessible towards the front of the room, on the right hand side. Move the door you planned on putting behind the screen into this new closet. Use a 19" rack. All gear would then be accessible inside the room, but the backside could be accessible through the closet door, outside the room .


EDIT: I would not install it behind the screen as you have it currently layed out.

This is what I was talking about. By putting a closet where the red arrow shows, you could install door just outside the main door into the room, on the side of the closet.
The closet would be the target drop zone for your power, speaker wire, and all interconnections through out the room. Additionally, you could make a solution for heat.
The closet would house a standard 19" rack. The front of the rack would be through the wall into the theater, for direct accessibility in the room.
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HT1.0 | HT2.05 | Bass EQ for Filtered Movies
JVC RS-2000 / Seymour AV Center Stage 130"diag, 2.35 / nVidia Shield
11.2(22).6 Atmos / Denon 7200WA / Denon 6300 / 2x miniDSP2x4HD / DIY treatments
2x NU6000DSP / 2x NU3000DSP / 2x Klipsch R-112SW / 4x UM18-22 / 4x PA-460 / 12x JBL 12"
Klipsch RF-82II/RC-64II/RS-42II/RS-41II/RB-61II/CDT3800-C-II
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-22-2020, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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What is the small closet behind the theater for? That looks like a good spot for a rack, to showcase your gear and have them accessible, and easy access from in the closet if you needed to get to the back of the rack.
Nothing currently. Just a spare closet. Could possibly be used for AV if needed!
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-22-2020, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Can't tell if that is a sump pump or a water heater in that area, code is you need to have a way of getting the largest object in and out of the room. The rack I have used many times is 24x24 so that would be hard to walk past in a 3 ft space. They do make them smaller.
Sump pump. Hmmm, may make sense to use the closet next to the bedroom. I kind of assumed, worst case, I could just disconnect the rack and roll it out if I ever needed to REALLY access the sump or backup system.
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-22-2020, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
This is what I was talking about. By putting a closet where the red arrow shows, you could install door just outside the main door into the room, on the side of the closet.
The closet would be the target drop zone for your power, speaker wire, and all interconnections through out the room. Additionally, you could make a solution for heat.
The closet would house a standard 19" rack. The front of the rack would be through the wall into the theater, for direct accessibility in the room.
Thanks for the ad hoc drawings! This is another great option, although gym space is at a premium. I’ll have to see if the wife is willing to let that go. We may have had equipment planned there. I have a lot more than what was shown. I had a marathon session of sketchup and when it started crashing at the leg press machine when I tried to drop it in, I gave up for the day.

Sounds like either way, moving the AV rack is the best option.
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-22-2020, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mocs123 View Post
Here's my standard spiel about finishing a theater is to go ahead and pre-wire for 9.x.6 ATMOS even though you are only planning 7.x.4 now. You might never add speakers, but pre-wiring now is cheap and easy to do, and it would be more difficult and invasive after drywall is up. I'd use Monoprice 12/2 speaker wire (or any other brand of copper (not CCA) 12/2 speaker wire.



I would add a conduit from your equipment rack to your projector in case you ever want to run a new cable to your projector. In my first build (~2005) I ran in wall Component Video and DVI to my display and guess what HDMI came out soon after and then they started limiting HD over non-HD connections. If your HDMI run is over 25' you'll probably need a fiber optic HDMI cable. If your run is under 25' feet a certified HDMI cable should work, but I'd verify it works with 4K/60 before you mount everything and run it to your projector. I did have some older HDMI cables (even marked high speed) that wouldn't pass 4K signals - luckily my 25' cable to my projector was fine, so everything was easy to change, but it's worth checking early.



I'd also make sure you run Cat-6 to your equipment rack and plan on having a network switch. This will not only give you the best streaming experience (no-wifi issues) but will let you hook all your equipment to the internet for software updates, etc.



I'd also suggest running your projector through a "power bridge" so you can run your projector to a UPS - this way if the power goes out while your projector's running you can shut it down and let the fan run and continue to cool the bulb during the normal power down cycle. I'd also suggest whole house surge protection if you don't have something like that already.



As for equipment you've got some time to get that figured out but you've made some decent picks already.


For a projector, the Epson is a nice choice (though it's white which would drive me crazy - says the guy with the white mini split). I'd also check out the JVC X790/RS540, especially for your completely light controlled room.



I love your speaker choice - the DIYSG Options are a super value. I'd save a little money and get the HT-12's instead of the HTM-12's but you certainly can't go wrong either way. I'd suggest HT-8's for surround duty (or HT-6's if they ever return to the site), but if you need in-walls for WAF, I might look at the HSU In-Walls. For Atmos speakers, the general suggestion is the RSLC34E's so that's probably what I'd go with.



For subs, what about a pair of DIY Devastators? You could hide them behind the screen and they'd have fantastic output. You could also build two (or four) VBSS subs as an alternate choice. They are a great value, and easier to build. I'm building dual driver VBSS's starting tomorrow!



Since you are using high efficiency speakers, I'd recommend going with an 11 channel receiver like the Denon 6500 over the Marantz/Monolith combo unless you just want separates. The Marantz doesn't really offer anything the Denon doesn't and the Marantz didn't test very well at Audio Science Review. The Monolith amp (made by ATI) is a really nice amp, but I'm not sure you'll need the extra horsepower.



I'd recommend a Panasonic UB420 for your UHD Blu-Ray player for it's HDR Optimizer which works particularly well with projectors. The UB820 and 9000 use the same optimizer and don't offer a whole lot more for projectors then the 420. I'd then get either a Apple TV or a Nvidia Shield Pro to use as a streamer and call it a day.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexaPr0 View Post
Sump pump. Hmmm, may make sense to use the closet next to the bedroom. I kind of assumed, worst case, I could just disconnect the rack and roll it out if I ever needed to REALLY access the sump or backup system.
My multi quote isn’t working on my iPad, so I’ll try to get to all of these. There’s a lot to unpack here. Thanks for taking the time.

Wiring: Will the atmos positioning be screwed up if I try to pre wire for a x.x.6? I’m not against this though!

Conduit: Yes, definitely! I’ll be doing this. Same with Cat 6, switch etc. I’ve already wired up the rest of my house myself, so this is on the menu, too. I’ll be running fiber to the projector, also.

Power bridge and surge protection. I’ll have to look this one up. I was planning to get a nice power conditioner/surge protector, but hadn’t looked too far beyond that. Thanks.

Projector: WHY WHITE?! Did they do this on purpose or what?! I couldn’t justify going up in price just to get black. I’ll look into the JVC, though. This thing just always seemed to rate so high.

Speakers: Thanks for the speaker choices. I’ll plan on DIY for most of it, except maybe the in walls. I’ve been eye balling some of the nice DIY subs too. Question here. Do I run RCA to all four corners, in case of a sub crawl or REW that dictates it? Are there wireless solutions here?

Receiver. I currently have a denon x1500h. I love it for my old 5.1 and have no problem making the switch back here. Just figured I’d try something a bit different, and the price is comparable. Everyone seems to have it and it rated high, so seemed reasonable. Question: knowing how much to ‘amp’ has always been nebulous to me...how much power to I need?

I’ve got an Apple TV and 3x Xbox one S, so one will go downstairs. Dedicated UB420 will definitely be an add...if I have a wallet left. I haven’t decided on decor, chairs, etc, so god knows I’ll blow the back on that stuff.
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