To soundprooof or not? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
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To soundprooof or not?

Hi Guys,


I've been debating on how seriously I want to try to sound proof my room. My biggest concern is lost space, especially lost ceiling height. You lose roughly 2 1/2" using clips, channels, and 2x5/8 dw, correct? My ceiling is only 86" with one layer of 5/8 dw. I am already cheating to do atmos speakers as it is.


My other concern is expense. Can anyone tell me roughly how much I would need to spend on clips, channel and GG for my room? It's roughly 14' x 20' narrowing to 12' by screen wall.


My compromise form the beginning has been to use safe n sound and one layer of 5/8, solid doors w/weatherstripping, and wrap or do the best I can w/any ducting in the ceiling.



This is a basement build in a ~4000sqft home. It's a 2 story cape above. It's my wife, daughter and I, and my mother in an apartment on one end of the house. HT ends up underneath the dining room pretty central to the length of the house. It will likely be just me in the HT a lot of the time, and the wife is pretty tolerant. Mom is starting not to hear so good now, so probably not a concern so much . LF is probably the biggest concern, and I can't imaging even the best isolated room on a concrete slab being able to stop the LF's so good anyway.



Anyway, just wanted to see if anybody had any thoughts on swaying me one way or the other. Likely it will come down to budget I think. I'd imagine an increase of at least $2k to isolate, and I am not sure if that's feasible.


Thanks in advance,
Pete
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 05:29 AM
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I was on a tight budget and did just what you did, rockwool, single 5/8 Type X drywall, solid core doors as spending the extra $2K would have probably kept me from getting approval from the boss to put an HT room in. Most of the time it is no issue - I can't hear the furnace/air handling unit in the basement, and most of the time we use the room, everyone in the house is in the theater. However you can hear the subs upstairs if we have a friends over and put a movie on for the kids downstairs, and you can people walking on the hardwood (or worse my daughter riding a hoverboard above) on those rare occasions where I'm watching something alone.



If you have the budget maybe you can at least put a couple layers of 5/8 drywall strips in between the joists above, then your insulation, and then dual layers of 5/8 drywall on the ceiling and walls with GG. That wouldn't be as good as clips and channel, but it would still be pretty good and only cost you 5/8" of ceiling height.



I understand if you can't do it budget wise, but I'll also add that it's very hard to do after the fact(near impossible short of a total tear down).
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 05:32 AM
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Seat of the pants estimate, $3-4K, Insulation, Extra layer of DW, GG, clips and channel, beefy door, putty pads, some duct work modifications.
The deciding factor should be if you don't do anything will you be able to use the room anytime you want and keep peace in the family/neighborhood ? If not then it is worth it.
Just a FYI, you can recess the clips and channel and save 3/4 if you are counting inches on the ceiling.



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post #4 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 06:33 AM
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After double drywall, clips/channel, and flooring, my ceiling is 80 inches high. The soundproofing is well worth the compromise. The system is very effective in reducing low frequencies. It won't completely eliminate LF at high levels, but you won't be able to get anywhere near as good LF reduction without the decoupling. With your house setup you may get the results you want, unless you like to turn the volume up to ear-bleeding levels.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for the replies!


Mocs, something to consider for sure, when family and friends are over. Good advice on the DW between the joists too, I am sure that would help.





Big, I like the idea of recessing the ceiling like that, that's a good trick! It would really be for family and friends at the house.... neighbors are far away thankfully.




Impreza, Nice to hear from first hand source! Did you do anything on your floor, are you on concrete? Do you have atmos speakers? Stopping the LF's would be my biggest concern, glad to hear you say it is such a big help.




Where's a good source for the clips, channel and GG? Is this stuff I can find locally you think? I'd like to start pricing out.
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post #6 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:23 AM
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Our room is approx 17 x 15 and I would say the cost for the soundproofing I did was about $4K. To me it was worth it not only for the sound it keeps from leaving the room but I also think it helps the sound in the room. I would say the equipment we have is middle of the road but the sound is amazing. I have been in countless commercial theaters and have owned many surround systems over the years none have ever come close to this space. Just last weekend my wife asked why don't the commercial theaters sound this good, to me that said it all. I believe the soundproofing is a big part of it.
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkinneb View Post
Our room is approx 17 x 15 and I would say the cost for the soundproofing I did was about $4K. To me it was worth it not only for the sound it keeps from leaving the room but I also think it helps the sound in the room. I would say the equipment we have is middle of the road but the sound is amazing. I have been in countless commercial theaters and have owned many surround systems over the years none have ever come close to this space. Just last weekend my wife asked why don't the commercial theaters sound this good, to me that said it all. I believe the soundproofing is a big part of it.



That's awesome! Makes sense. Sounds like you have quite the room. Can't wait to get mine done.




One thing I probably should have mentioned, is this totally DIY. Was you're $4k contracting it out? I am really just looking for the increased material cost. So, the extra DW, clips, channel, GG and misc.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Seat of the pants estimate, $3-4K, Insulation, Extra layer of DW, GG, clips and channel, beefy door, putty pads, some duct work modifications.
The deciding factor should be if you don't do anything will you be able to use the room anytime you want and keep peace in the family/neighborhood ? If not then it is worth it.
Just a FYI, you can recess the clips and channel and save 3/4 if you are counting inches on the ceiling.




Big, I really like this! This would also allow me to perfectly level my ceiling!! Thumbs up man!
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd also save on Safe N Sound... that stuff is not cheap!
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterl944 View Post

Impreza, Nice to hear from first hand source! Did you do anything on your floor, are you on concrete? Do you have atmos speakers? Stopping the LF's would be my biggest concern, glad to hear you say it is such a big help.

My floor is on concrete, and no, I did not use any soundproofing for it. I used ib3 clips to decouple wall framing in order to save costs. I have atmos speakers which use backer boxes. They are hardly used, though recently I gave them a bit of critical listening. At the low height I have to admit that they sound more discrete than higher placed atmos speakers. I also have speaker wire going to wall sockets so that I have the option of hooking up reflective atmos speakers if I wanted to. It is infinitely better to install provisions for atmos and not use them, than omit atmos then try to retrofit it later. A number of theaters use really cheap speakers for the atmos, since they are not so critical.
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 08:17 AM
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That's awesome! Makes sense. Sounds like you have quite the room. Can't wait to get mine done.




One thing I probably should have mentioned, is this totally DIY. Was you're $4k contracting it out? I am really just looking for the increased material cost. So, the extra DW, clips, channel, GG and misc.
100% DIY. The Soundproffing clips, channel, GG, sealant, putty pads, rock wool, pink fluffy, dynamat, etc was $2,654 and the door including the hinges, slab, seals, etc added another $1,240. I include the door for two reasons one it has to be addressed as it is the weak link and two I was really surprised by the costs for it.
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post #12 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by impreza276 View Post
My floor is on concrete, and no, I did not use any soundproofing for it. I used ib3 clips to decouple wall framing in order to save costs. I have atmos speakers which use backer boxes. They are hardly used, though recently I gave them a bit of critical listening. At the low height I have to admit that they sound more discrete than higher placed atmos speakers. I also have speaker wire going to wall sockets so that I have the option of hooking up reflective atmos speakers if I wanted to. It is infinitely better to install provisions for atmos and not use them, than omit atmos then try to retrofit it later. A number of theaters use really cheap speakers for the atmos, since they are not so critical.



Good to know. Thanks! So, you didn't use channel and clips on your walls? Just ib3 the actual framing? What about the 2x4's on the floor?
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post #13 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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100% DIY. The Soundproffing clips, channel, GG, sealant, putty pads, rock wool, pink fluffy, dynamat, etc was $2,654 and the door including the hinges, slab, seals, etc added another $1,240. I include the door for two reasons one it has to be addressed as it is the weak link and two I was really surprised by the costs for it.



Wow! the door was a lot. I have 2 lol! I was thinking solid slab doors with an added layer of MDF ($200 or so from Lowes), + special hinges and seals. Maybe I need to rethink if I am going to go through all this other trouble.
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 08:47 AM
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Good to know. Thanks! So, you didn't use channel and clips on your walls? Just ib3 the actual framing? What about the 2x4's on the floor?
No I did not use clips and channel on the walls. If you have a room on the other side of the decoupled wall frame, then you need to build a separate frame for that. In that situation it would be better to use clips and channels instead. I am not sure of the caveats but the bottom of the framing does not need to be decoupled when using ib3 clips. It is much harder for sound to travel through the concrete basement floor, and up the walls to the upper rooms.

As for the doors, you should be fine with 1,3/4 inch solid core doors in the basement, if you have a second door at top to the main level. Two pre-hung solid core doors should not run you more than $600 total for a start. You can add automatic door bottom seals later if you feel you need them.
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 10:11 AM
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Try to find an actual sheetrock supply business, not a big box or a general "building supply" center(kamco, etc).

We are quoted .31 cents/sq ft for 5/8 type X drywall. Sheet size does not matter to them, just the total sq ft. They have access to 12' long and also 54" wide sheets if you can use them. We also got our channel for a 18'9" x 23'9" for <$100. (We have ceiling heights to handle, so I got extra).

As a person who already purchased 30+ bales of safe-n-sound, use regular insulation to save $ there. Home depot has pink panther R13 32ft long rolls for $16.44each if you buy 20x or more. (Could probably ask the sheetrock supply house what their prices are too.)

Make sure you know your joist dead/static load rating if you add sheetrock between the joists in addition to two layers on the ceiling. It is worth it in my opinion, but it is considerable weight.

As impreza mentioned, go with IB-3 clips and do double interior walls to save $ on clips and performance.
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post #16 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 11:35 AM
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Wow! the door was a lot. I have 2 lol! I was thinking solid slab doors with an added layer of MDF ($200 or so from Lowes), + special hinges and seals. Maybe I need to rethink if I am going to go through all this other trouble.
If you are not in a rush to build, thoroughly research your project before making decisions. There are lots of details to work out. It took me more than a year and I was still making big discoveries among the threads towards the end. If you are in a rush to build, contract with BIGMouthinDC to guide you through the process remotely. He will be able to tell you what exactly you need to do. You will end up saving more money in the end that way too.
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-29-2020, 07:37 PM
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My space is very small so I had really no choice. I did the safe and sound route and honestly very satisfied. Also did fabric panels with 1” duct liner too.
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