the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 55 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1621 of 1661 Old 05-15-2017, 02:46 AM
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Yes, neither is the problem here. It's fade FROM OFF to any scene that is hardcoded to 3 seconds. I want my cinema lights to come on gradually when a screening ends, and the 3 second fade IN is a bit harsh after two hours in the dark. The scene's fade-in time only apply when going between scenes, not when going from OFF. It seems I'll just keep using my current workaround.
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post #1622 of 1661 Old 05-18-2017, 07:07 AM
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Team

I am looking for a single solution and wondering if anyone here has any suggestions.

I would like a lighting controller that will dim six zones, but the zones are a mix, some bulbs (GU10 led lamps) and the other three zones will be RGB LED color changing strips. When I enter my theater a keypad on the wall with like 3 or 4 presets. But also, be able to control the lights with my URC MX-990 remote via RF to IR repeater. The main light controller is in the equipment room so not inside the theater.

I currently have an older Grafik Eye installed. Its an old GRX-IA-6. Its only currently controlling the three zones of bulbs. I have not bought any of the RGB Strips yet because I don’t know which controller and transformer to get that works with whatever Grafik eye I use. I have gotten mixed info that I can do what I want with my current controler, but then other people have told me I need a newer QS model Grafik eye with DMX controlers…but even then they are not sure sence they have no experience with RGB strips.

Yes I do understand that the Grafik eye nor my URC remote will be able to control the color mix of my RGB Strips. That I can change with an app on my cell phone. But it would be great is when someone comes into the theater, pushes on button and everything comes on to pre-set light levels. That’s the goal. One press.

Im open to any ideas that someone has installed, set-up, and works.

Thank you all in advance
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post #1623 of 1661 Old 05-19-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horta View Post
Team

I am looking for a single solution and wondering if anyone here has any suggestions.

I would like a lighting controller that will dim six zones, but the zones are a mix, some bulbs (GU10 led lamps) and the other three zones will be RGB LED color changing strips. When I enter my theater a keypad on the wall with like 3 or 4 presets. But also, be able to control the lights with my URC MX-990 remote via RF to IR repeater. The main light controller is in the equipment room so not inside the theater.

I currently have an older Grafik Eye installed. Its an old GRX-IA-6. Its only currently controlling the three zones of bulbs. I have not bought any of the RGB Strips yet because I don’t know which controller and transformer to get that works with whatever Grafik eye I use. I have gotten mixed info that I can do what I want with my current controler, but then other people have told me I need a newer QS model Grafik eye with DMX controlers…but even then they are not sure sence they have no experience with RGB strips.

Yes I do understand that the Grafik eye nor my URC remote will be able to control the color mix of my RGB Strips. That I can change with an app on my cell phone. But it would be great is when someone comes into the theater, pushes on button and everything comes on to pre-set light levels. That’s the goal. One press.

Im open to any ideas that someone has installed, set-up, and works.

Thank you all in advance
First and foremost the newer Grafik Eye (GE) QS is more tolerant of LED lighting then most, but you still may need some ELV dimmers on some LED which means adding an interface to each GE zone that needs one. For this reason I would recommend the Radio Ra 2 (RR2) system instead. You'll spend a little more but open up the possibility to control your entire home, or even use Google Alexa/Echo or Apple Homekit / Siri Voice control. In RR2 you would just have individual dimmers in your equipment room and a keypad in the theater (and/or APP control). If one or all of your LED require ELV then you only need to change to the appropriate dimmer model. No additional modules or wiring. The RGB is a hang up depending on how you want to control it. If you just want to use your RGB controller and a RR2 Switch or switched GE zone you could set up a scene that would turn on your RGB controller and if yours has that function it will return to wherever it was last. Not all RGB controllers have a memory though, some wills always come on at a default to some color, fade or flash.

The RGB w/ Grafik Eye is tricky but they (Lutron) make a DMX interface you could use with a newer Grafik Eye QS. Often this is too complicated for the average user. But it is possible and just takes a bit of time to set up. It would mean you need a DMX capable RGB controller though. The DMX function is probably the best way to handle it but you may lose your APP control unless you can find a DMX controller with app. Additionally it is only available when used with GE and GE DMX interface. Lutron has a free software to program this, but you may need to educate yourself on DMX (DMX512?).

On a more simple use we have done a single zone out of the Grafik Eye to a Magnetic Driver for the RGB. Between the driver and RGB we have a triple stack switch to turn on/off each color manually, and dim as a regular zone. This would be if you seldom changed colors. You could substitute this function of the with 3 relays and automate that to some degree as well. This approach(relays) is more suitable to use Radio Ra 2 as the VCRX piece can be used as contact closure for the relays. Or the New QS grafik Eye is RR2 capable anyway.

If you want to maintain the features of your RGB controller like fades, you'll have to power through the Grafik Eye as a switched zone only. Additionally you will only be able to dim that through your RGB controller app.

There are a couple companies doing some 3rd party stuff for this purpose also, but they are $$$
http://www.aionled.com
www.integratedledcontrols.com

Paul W.
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post #1624 of 1661 Old 07-02-2017, 07:03 PM
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I am still searching for the best light switch for my theater. Looking to have 4 zones consisting of stage lights, step lights, sconces and soffit lights. I've narrowed it to either the Grafik Eye with a remote or 4 black insteon switches and a remote. Which would you suggest? I know the Insteon setup would save me a fewbucks but not sure how bright the actual led's on the switch are. This is a concern because my theater enterence is between the stage and seats. I don't want bright, distracting led's my the screen
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post #1625 of 1661 Old 07-04-2017, 02:15 PM
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My Grafik Eye 3000 is just terrible at IR signal, it seems to really need something pointing RIGHT AT IT to work. Anyone else see similar things? I can't believe they haven't Z-Wave'd these things yet. I'd upgrade.

Anyway, I have a blaster on the same wall as the Eye but it's about 15 feet away, still can't seem to get the thing to talk to the GE. Anyone have any tips on getting an IR blaster from a Harmony to meet up with a GE on the wall?
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post #1626 of 1661 Old 07-05-2017, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradP View Post
My Grafik Eye 3000 is just terrible at IR signal, it seems to really need something pointing RIGHT AT IT to work. Anyone else see similar things? I can't believe they haven't Z-Wave'd these things yet. I'd upgrade.

Anyway, I have a blaster on the same wall as the Eye but it's about 15 feet away, still can't seem to get the thing to talk to the GE. Anyone have any tips on getting an IR blaster from a Harmony to meet up with a GE on the wall?
IR is vaguely directional but if your blaster and eye are on the same wall how are they supposed to communicate?

Lutron doesn't do Z-Wave and likely never will. They have their own RF control in there more current QS Grafik Eye that speaks with the Radio Ra 2 family of products.
For older equipment you are stuck with IR, however if you read back through the thread you can see some tips for placing blasters in alternate areas. Likewise Lutron makes a couple different IR receivers and Keypads that wire to the GE and also act as an additional IR receiver. These each require their MUX link connection though.

You should find some 3rd party equipment that can incorporate the IR and Z-Wave if you want to try and integrate them.

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post #1627 of 1661 Old 07-06-2017, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjmeyer View Post
I am still searching for the best light switch for my theater. Looking to have 4 zones consisting of stage lights, step lights, sconces and soffit lights. I've narrowed it to either the Grafik Eye with a remote or 4 black insteon switches and a remote. Which would you suggest? I know the Insteon setup would save me a fewbucks but not sure how bright the actual led's on the switch are. This is a concern because my theater enterence is between the stage and seats. I don't want bright, distracting led's my the screen

I have Insteon switches. They work great and I highly recommend them. I'm not sure if you can turn the lights off or not. If not I wouldn't recommend them in your location because I think they would be distracting.

EDIT:

I just saw this: ". The status LED brightness can be dimmed to the
point that it appears off. The Insteon Hub and other central controller software allow setting of this device
property."

I'll try to adjust mine and see how they look.
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Last edited by bombertodd; 07-06-2017 at 02:27 PM.
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post #1628 of 1661 Old 07-06-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
IR is vaguely directional but if your blaster and eye are on the same wall how are they supposed to communicate?

Lutron doesn't do Z-Wave and likely never will. They have their own RF control in there more current QS Grafik Eye that speaks with the Radio Ra 2 family of products.
For older equipment you are stuck with IR, however if you read back through the thread you can see some tips for placing blasters in alternate areas. Likewise Lutron makes a couple different IR receivers and Keypads that wire to the GE and also act as an additional IR receiver. These each require their MUX link connection though.

You should find some 3rd party equipment that can incorporate the IR and Z-Wave if you want to try and integrate them.
I have a Harmony hub and I believe the Elite also does RF so probably moving to an RF unit would work, but that looks pricey. I may just end up having to lose my beautiful Grafik Eye and going with something lower tech like 4 z-wave switches which can also be controlled via voice (amazon echo in the room) or the Elite which links up to smartthings. I was able to get a blaster to talk to the projector's IR but the Grafik Eye really seems to need direct line of sight with the emitter (even my Elite needs to basically point RIGHT at it to get it to fire). Way it goes I guess!

I'll look back for some of the IR blaster recommendations, thanks.
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post #1629 of 1661 Old 07-26-2017, 07:54 PM
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I am finishing up the planning stages on my theater. I already have Lutron on my main floor for 'scenes' in the family room, but it makes a lot more sense in a theater room. My 'zones' are:

Wall Scones
Riser Rope Lighting
Ceiling Rope Lighting
Front Pot lights
Back Pot lights

But in the furture I am considering motorized drapes, I understand the Grafik eye is capable of this? How do I future proof my wiring now to if needed it would be easy to add this in?
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post #1630 of 1661 Old 07-28-2017, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bombertodd View Post
I have Insteon switches. They work great and I highly recommend them. I'm not sure if you can turn the lights off or not. If not I wouldn't recommend them in your location because I think they would be distracting.



EDIT:



I just saw this: ". The status LED brightness can be dimmed to the

point that it appears off. The Insteon Hub and other central controller software allow setting of this device

property."



I'll try to adjust mine and see how they look.


I'm interested in your feedback on dimming the LED lights .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #1631 of 1661 Old 07-28-2017, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
I'm interested in your feedback on dimming the LED lights .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Totally forgot about this. I will try this weekend.
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post #1632 of 1661 Old 07-29-2017, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
I'm interested in your feedback on dimming the LED lights .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Played with my Insteon 6 button keypad. You can dim all the way to off. Works great.

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post #1633 of 1661 Old 07-31-2017, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killswitch1968 View Post
...I am considering motorized drapes, I understand the Grafik eye is capable of this? How do I future proof my wiring now to if needed it would be easy to add this in?
Depends a lot on what brand shade you are going with and what Grafik Eye (GE) you have. If you have a more recent Lutron GE "QS"(QSGRJ.....) it can speak wirelessly to the Lutron's "QS" series of shades. Some people gawk at the price, but they do have some affordable options in their Triathlon / essentials collections. The shades can be battery or powered. For powered shades you need 2 conductor power only. I have several jobs on Batteries and I think we're seeing more than 3 years on some of the original battery powered shades which are less efficient than the ones they produce today.

Some other shades work on 3-wire, 4-wire. Some of Lutrons wired shades use a 7 conductor. So I would assume that might be worst case or "Future Proof", but as with everything else A/V and future proof wiring the best thing you can do is put in a conduit and pull what ever you need.

If you already have a GE QS you have to get a replacement Cover to get the shade control buttons, OR if it's part of a Radio Ra 2 (RR2) system you can re-program any of the GE's Scene buttons for Shades, as well as any other RR2 Keypad. Or simply use one of their Battery Powered PICO Controls. If you have an existing GE QS and not part of a RR2 system, I might rather spend the money on the RR2 main repeater instead of a replacement cover. Because you can do more and extend the RR2 system to the rest of the home in the future.

If you have specifics you would like to go over please email me directly and, I'd be happy to discuss it with you. paul(at)hankselectric(dot) net

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post #1634 of 1661 Old 07-31-2017, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Depends a lot on what brand shade you are going with and what Grafik Eye (GE) you have. If you have a more recent Lutron GE "QS"(QSGRJ.....) it can speak wirelessly to the Lutron's "QS" series of shades. Some people gawk at the price, but they do have some affordable options in their Triathlon / essentials collections. The shades can be battery or powered. For powered shades you need 2 conductor power only. I have several jobs on Batteries and I think we're seeing more than 3 years on some of the original battery powered shades which are less efficient than the ones they produce today.

Some other shades work on 3-wire, 4-wire. Some of Lutrons wired shades use a 7 conductor. So I would assume that might be worst case or "Future Proof", but as with everything else A/V and future proof wiring the best thing you can do is put in a conduit and pull what ever you need.

If you already have a GE QS you have to get a replacement Cover to get the shade control buttons, OR if it's part of a Radio Ra 2 (RR2) system you can re-program any of the GE's Scene buttons for Shades, as well as any other RR2 Keypad. Or simply use one of their Battery Powered PICO Controls. If you have an existing GE QS and not part of a RR2 system, I might rather spend the money on the RR2 main repeater instead of a replacement cover. Because you can do more and extend the RR2 system to the rest of the home in the future.

If you have specifics you would like to go over please email me directly and, I'd be happy to discuss it with you. paul(at)hankselectric(dot) net
Thanks Paul that's all helpful. I guess it's not as straightforward as wiring in a Cat5e and a 14AWG! I think conduit makes the sense at this time. I have Lutron Shades on my main floor. Some are wired, some are on batteries, but I find the battery ones to be more finicky and slower to open and close. Appreciate the help.
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post #1635 of 1661 Old 08-26-2018, 01:58 PM
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Hi guys,

What are the limitations of using the Lutron RS-232 interface with the GRX-3106?
Can all 16 scenes be set and several units daisy chained and controlled from a single RS-232 interface on the bus?

Thanks very much!

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post #1636 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 07:10 AM
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Hi guys,

What are the limitations of using the Lutron RS-232 interface with the GRX-3106?
Can all 16 scenes be set and several units daisy chained and controlled from a single RS-232 interface on the bus?

Thanks very much!
Our Charmed Quark Controller supports up to 8 daisy chained units and 16 scenes through a single RS-232 interface

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post #1637 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 07:12 AM
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Our Charmed Quark Controller supports up to 8 daisy chained units and 16 scenes through a single RS-232 interface
Can the daisy chained units also be 3106 or do I need to use 3506?
Do I get real time feedback using 3106?
Can I +/- a specific load/channel on a 3106 directly (and without selecting a scene)?

Thanks!

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post #1638 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Can the daisy chained units also be 3106 or do I need to use 3506?
3106 is fine (3506 adds capability to be programmed from PC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Do I get real time feedback using 3106?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Can I +/- a specific load/channel on a 3106 directly (and without selecting a scene)?
No, scenes + raise/lower are supported


For the definitive guide follow this link

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post #1639 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 08:02 AM
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No, scenes + raise/lower are supported
Thanks. I have read somewhere that a specific load/channel can be raised/lowered on the 3506 without touching the scene.

On the 3106 probably only scenes can be lowered/raised but not individual channels, right?

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post #1640 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Thanks. I have read somewhere that a specific load/channel can be raised/lowered on the 3506 without touching the scene.

On the 3106 probably only scenes can be lowered/raised but not individual channels, right?
I have no direct experience with the 3506, the guide in the link above will give you a definitive answer; To the best of my knowledge the raise/lower applies to the currently state.

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post #1641 of 1661 Old 08-27-2018, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Thanks. I have read somewhere that a specific load/channel can be raised/lowered on the 3506 without touching the scene.

On the 3106 probably only scenes can be lowered/raised but not individual channels, right?

First of all, the 3500 is still supported, but both are more or less obsolete and replaced years ago by Grafik QS. If this is a new project, I highly recommend Grafik QS. But for the purpose of the question, most of this info is relevant to all models.



Now, I have never have done this myself, but I think you will find the answer here:


It looks like on any 3000 (3100 or 3500) series you can select a scene and request scene status, but for raise lower it appears you have to state all the zones to raise / lower, basically redefine the scene in the command. But remember if you adjust a zone (or a scene for that matter) you are taking the unit away from whatever scene it was on and that scene status is no longer valid. You can also request Zone Intensities, depending on what you may want to do or info you want to pull. What is not entirely clear to me is, is this "raise zone" command a simple incremental press of the raise button or if you have to use it on conjunction with zone raise stop.



One of the few things 3500 specific was "Set Control Unit Intensities". This is basically another way to do a scene. There are other implications but for most common scenarios a scene will do the same things.


Zone Lower Example:
Command Name: D
Description: Zone lower ramps down specific zones on a single GRAFIK Eye Control Unit.
Syntax: D[Control Unit][zones]<CR>
Allowed Values: Control Unit 1-8 (Control Units on link) / 0-8 Zones to ramp down
Examples:
5<CR> ramp down all zones on Control Unit 5
3124<CR> ramp down zones 1, 2, and 4 on Control Unit 3
Additional Information
This command will not affect shade zones.

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post #1642 of 1661 Old 11-15-2018, 09:13 AM
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Does anyone know where I can purchase Lutron Green Cable or GRX-CBL-346s by the foot?
Thanks,
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post #1643 of 1661 Old 11-19-2018, 12:47 AM
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Does anyone know where I can purchase Lutron Green Cable or GRX-CBL-346s by the foot?
Thanks,
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Try here : https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/a...946?bidplaced=

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post #1644 of 1661 Old 11-28-2018, 07:32 AM
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So I’ve got an old 3000 series graphic eye from circa 2010 in my theater.

I’m looking to add an external “switch” of some sort to turn on the lights from outside my room.

Anybody know of a way to do this wirelessly? I’ve got an infrared repeater system setup to control the unit now and could somehow tap into that.

I can add the hard wired switch but it would involve tearing out Sheetrock

Thanks!
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post #1645 of 1661 Old 11-29-2018, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by trpltongue View Post
So I’ve got an old 3000 series graphic eye from circa 2010 in my theater.

I’m looking to add an external “switch” of some sort to turn on the lights from outside my room.

Anybody know of a way to do this wirelessly? I’ve got an infrared repeater system setup to control the unit now and could somehow tap into that.

I can add the hard wired switch but it would involve tearing out Sheetrock

Thanks!
There is no simple solution. If you had a current QS Grafik Eye, this is a no-brainer, they have a PICO control for this. Tapping into your IR system may be an option, but you could also add a 3rd party wirelessly controlled relay to use your SSA terminal switched to hot (replacing the NTGRX-1S in the image below). If I remember right this can trigger your first scene. You may have to re-program your scenes to make your first scene do what you want with the relay, but this is another way to do it.


See this document, page 72 (page 7 pdf)
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/66-86_Grafik_Eye_Window_Treatments.pdf




Paul W.
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post #1646 of 1661 Old 11-29-2018, 04:09 PM
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That’s an interesting idea to add a relay. I’ll have to see if I can find something that can fit. It’s really tight in the box &#x1f642;
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post #1647 of 1661 Old 11-30-2018, 03:18 PM
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That’s an interesting idea to add a relay. I’ll have to see if I can find something that can fit. It’s really tight in the box &#x1f642;
One of the simplest ways to apply this would to add a wireless switch and use the relay for isolation together in a separate box. Then just 2 wires over to the GE 3000. You could potentially cut in a deep single box and fit this in together. I'm thinking a Lutron Caseta or RR2 switch and a PICO as the remote control for the other room. The downside is adding a switch next to your GE or at least to an adjacent location you can get a couple wire to & from. Finding a tiny relay is no problem, I have them here in stock. Or bite the bullet and upgrade you GE to a QS version and you can then talk directly to a PICO rf control. Or even add it into a small RR2 system and have APP, ETHERNET & TELNET based control possibilities.

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post #1648 of 1661 Old 11-30-2018, 03:34 PM
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I actually have a 4-gang box adjacent to the grafik eye, albeit in a different stud bay.

I already have the grafik eye installed in a deep masonry box so it’ll take some doing to drill through the stud and knock out an access, but I’m sure I can do it.

I would upgrade the Grafik Eye, but ouch, they are expensive. I got mine on sale for $350 back in 2010

I’ll send you a PM for a couple of questions on your suggestion. Not sure I’m completely following the switch + relay bit
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post #1649 of 1661 Old 12-03-2018, 01:09 PM
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the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!!

Does anyone know where I can find an accessory switch for a GRX-3104 model (non-QS)? I’d prefer the single push button, but could also do a 2 button.

I looked into options to control via relay, but I need a momentary switch to activate the SSA, and any of the Lutron smart switches are on/off, not momentary.
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post #1650 of 1661 Old 12-04-2018, 08:23 AM
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Does anyone know where I can find an accessory switch for a GRX-3104 model (non-QS)? I’d prefer the single push button, but could also do a 2 button.

I looked into options to control via relay, but I need a momentary switch to activate the SSA, and any of the Lutron smart switches are on/off, not momentary.
It's been to long ago that we supported these, but I thought it could work on a regular toggle switch, but you do have some momentary options still


Here are a couple options:
http://hankselectric.supply/Momentar...tch_p_269.html


http://hankselectric.supply/Touchpla...tch_p_237.html

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