the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 1672 Old 12-04-2018, 11:36 AM
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I probably need to make a call to lutron, but in reading the literature it sounded like the single switch is a momentary push button.

I’m going to check out those links as well.

Thanks!
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post #1652 of 1672 Old 12-05-2018, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by trpltongue View Post
Does anyone know where I can find an accessory switch for a GRX-3104 model (non-QS)? I’d prefer the single push button, but could also do a 2 button.

I looked into options to control via relay, but I need a momentary switch to activate the SSA, and any of the Lutron smart switches are on/off, not momentary.

I have an old 3106 that I wanted to add a remote switch outside of the room. I got onto ebay and found a 2 scene egrx lutron switch for a very reasonable price.

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post #1653 of 1672 Old 12-05-2018, 06:23 AM
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I’ve been looking for 2 scene switches on eBay but haven’t found anything remotely reasonably priced.

I did get confirmation from Lutron tech support that the SSA line on the grx-3000 series is a momentary closure, so a regular switch won’t work.

They recommended using a Maestro Accessory switch (MS-SA). It’s a push button momentary switch that is standard decora size.

I’m still trying to find some way to do a wireless momentary switch but not having any luck. I could rig up some convoluted system using an RF remote controlled relay and a momentary switch with some solder etc, but that’s just asking for trouble

A simple RF controlled momentary relay that can handle 120v load would work, and I’ve found several, but they all have ugly remotes that don’t look anything like a wall switch.
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post #1654 of 1672 Old 12-06-2018, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by trpltongue View Post
I’ve been looking for 2 scene switches on eBay but haven’t found anything remotely reasonably priced.

I did get confirmation from Lutron tech support that the SSA line on the grx-3000 series is a momentary closure, so a regular switch won’t work.

They recommended using a Maestro Accessory switch (MS-SA). It’s a push button momentary switch that is standard decora size.

I’m still trying to find some way to do a wireless momentary switch but not having any luck. I could rig up some convoluted system using an RF remote controlled relay and a momentary switch with some solder etc, but that’s just asking for trouble

A simple RF controlled momentary relay that can handle 120v load would work, and I’ve found several, but they all have ugly remotes that don’t look anything like a wall switch.
You can do this easily with RR2 but for what it would cost you might as well just update your Grafik Eye, unless the RR2 was appealing to you, & then be able to expand HA system throughout your home.

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post #1655 of 1672 Old 01-28-2019, 01:04 PM
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FYI, The Lutron just announced the Grafik Eye 3500 series will be discontinued later this year (June 1st). This was the only replacement up to now for any of the 3000 series.

It still may be available as replacement through obsolete parts, but that will make it even more expensive and could take several weeks or months to have them build one.

If you are considering or putting off a replacement the current QS version Grafik Eye is your best bet, but if you have a large system with multiple keypads you would have to update it all, in this case you shouldn't wait much longer.

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post #1656 of 1672 Old 02-11-2019, 08:24 AM
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In case anyone is interested,

I did finally have a chance to add a slave switch to the system. Rather than try to do a wireless switch outside of the room, I instead added a wall switch inside the room. This way when people enter the room they flip on a light switch as per normal and the Lutron kicks in and launches scene 1.

I used this tutorial to make my own momentary switch from a standard decora wall switch:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_QJgYJfNKRI

Saved myself $30 🙂.

I already had a second wall box above the Lutron unit, so I simply put the new momentary switch in that box. Connected the live wire to one side of the switch and connected the other side to the SSA of the Lutron and it worked perfectly.

Now the momentary switch turns on scene 1 and turns off the system! Much easier than trying to fumble for a tiny button in the dark 🙂
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post #1657 of 1672 Old 03-05-2019, 07:29 PM
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I have a large Grafik Eye 6000 system that I recently inherited in an private club I acquired, and need a little help. I purchased an old windows 95 laptop to attempt to update the lighting schedule. Does anyone know how I can download the existing data file from the controller?
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post #1658 of 1672 Old 03-06-2019, 06:51 AM
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I have a large Grafik Eye 6000 system that I recently inherited in an private club I acquired, and need a little help. I purchased an old windows 95 laptop to attempt to update the lighting schedule. Does anyone know how I can download the existing data file from the controller?
Sorry, I have no experience with that one. A lot of those older systems you could not do that with(extract or download). But again, I never used the 6000. In case you hadn't found it, here is all the Legacy documentation they have for it:
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Service-Support/Pages/Technical/LegacyProducts.aspx



Also, systems of that magnitude, Lutron may have a job file on record. I would contact them & recommend phone, they are 2-3 days by email.

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post #1659 of 1672 Old 03-09-2019, 08:28 AM
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Thank you, they think they have a file so hopefully that works out.
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post #1660 of 1672 Old 04-17-2019, 04:23 PM
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IMO after a 14 year run .... it's "time" to remove this thread from a sticky, and relegate it to normal thread status.
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post #1661 of 1672 Old 04-21-2019, 01:41 AM
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14 years as a sticky... that's a long time, but it's been a very handy topic for us all in that time.
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post #1662 of 1672 Old 02-05-2020, 08:47 AM
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Does anyone have tips on how to acquire a Grafik Eye QS and custom engraved face plate? I can find random models on eBay and I may eventually be able to find the specific model I need, but I'm not sure I'll be able to order the engraved faceplate without the Lutron order # that the Grafik Eye came from, seems the process is locked down to partners. Ideally I'd like to find a Lutron reseller that will just work with me to order parts. I fear the locals will want to come do installation and uncharge me.

Lakeview Cinema build thread
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post #1663 of 1672 Old 02-06-2020, 08:03 AM
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Does anyone have tips on how to acquire a Grafik Eye QS and custom engraved face plate? I can find random models on eBay and I may eventually be able to find the specific model I need, but I'm not sure I'll be able to order the engraved faceplate without the Lutron order # that the Grafik Eye came from, seems the process is locked down to partners. Ideally I'd like to find a Lutron reseller that will just work with me to order parts. I fear the locals will want to come do installation and uncharge me.


There is nothing that should stop you from ordering an engraved cover. For the QS they are sold separately anyway. If you don't have someone local to help you let me know.

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post #1664 of 1672 Old 05-07-2020, 04:55 AM
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When I built my last theater 12 years ago, I used a Grafik Eye (3506, if I remember the model number correctly).

Is Grafik Eye still a preferred solution - something like an 8 zone Wireless QS? Or has Grafik Eye been surpassed by other solutions? I'm at the lighting design phase of the project, so I can still wire for whatever solution I choose. I don't want to invest in Lutron again if there is something better these days.

Thanks!

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #1665 of 1672 Old 05-07-2020, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post
When I built my last theater 12 years ago, I used a Grafik Eye (3506, if I remember the model number correctly).

Is Grafik Eye still a preferred solution - something like an 8 zone Wireless QS? Or has Grafik Eye been surpassed by other solutions? I'm at the lighting design phase of the project, so I can still wire for whatever solution I choose. I don't want to invest in Lutron again if there is something better these days.

Thanks!
I would look at Lutron's Caseta system, for the price point it's amazing. If you are talking a whole home and want illuminated keypads then Ra2 is still a great solution at a higher price point.
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post #1666 of 1672 Old 05-07-2020, 06:32 AM
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the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!!

I went with a Grafik eye QS, just got it a few months back. I looked at all of the systems.

The Caseta are good if you want to install a bunch of individual switches and cobble together scenes using a smart hub. There are a lot of alternatives in this space, Lutron’s is one of the few with HomeKit integration if you care about that.

The RA2 suite is another step up, pretty big suite of hardware controls, sensors, etc. The Grafik Eye QS is actually a part of the RadioRA2 suite and falls under “light controls”. You could possibly put together a nice (even whole home) system with seeTouch keypads instead. I found the RA2 overwhelming because most of the components want to use the Lutron gateway, wireless repeaters, or special wiring. Most of the keypads don’t drop in on their own but are designed to connect to a remote relay unit or a Graphik Eye.

In the end since the Graphik Eye is so capable, integrated into one piece of hardware, *and* a part of the RadioRA2 suite I decided I would just get one and then I would be able to expand with the Lutron Gateway and all of the other components later, if I wanted.

Lakeview Cinema build thread
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post #1667 of 1672 Old 05-08-2020, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post
When I built my last theater 12 years ago, I used a Grafik Eye (3506, if I remember the model number correctly).

Is Grafik Eye still a preferred solution - something like an 8 zone Wireless QS? Or has Grafik Eye been surpassed by other solutions? I'm at the lighting design phase of the project, so I can still wire for whatever solution I choose. I don't want to invest in Lutron again if there is something better these days.

Thanks!
The new Grafik Eye QS is the upgrade but still only 6zones. The 8 zone version is only for their ECO series ballasts and drivers (more for commercial use, for fluorescent and LED)
This still shares the same footprint and specs are at least as good as the GRX3106 and GRX3506.

The Grafik QS is fairly tolerant of most LED, but if you have a minimum load or ELV requirement, the other solution like Caseta, Radio Ra Select, or Radio Ra 2 are worth considering.
Grafik QS is Radio Ra 2 compatible. If you have other wired wall stations to your GRX You would need to replace those to upgrade as well.

Caseta, Radio Ra Select, and Radio Ra 2are all APP capable as well as Grafik QS as part of a Radio Ra 2 system (Main Rpeater and Connect Bridge required)

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post #1668 of 1672 Old 05-08-2020, 02:35 PM
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Thank you. This was helpful. I'll check out the Caseta, and it's good to know GrafikEye is still a contender.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

Brian
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post #1669 of 1672 Old 06-11-2020, 08:58 AM
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Can someone tell me what the difference is between IR DATA and IR COM?


I have a CAT5 Ethernet run to my Grafik Eye QS to control it via a Harmony Hub.
On the Harmony Hub end, I have this product (Ethernet to 3.5mm male, attached to a 3.5mm female to a 2.5mm male going into the Harmony Hub.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza


I want to cut open the 3.5mm male jack end of the product linked above ( I don't know how many wires are under the hood of the product linked above but I

have posted a question on Amazon to the seller asked how many wires I will find underneath the 3.5mm male jack end of it)


The question is, after I cut open the 3.5mm male jack of the adapter product, which wires should I connect to IR DATA and IR COM?


The adapter manufacturer has shared on Amazon which wire is linked to which wire on the RJ45 block (they stated, and I quote "Our Cat5 adapters that come in our kit use lines 4,6 & 8"


Thanks in advance for anyone that can share any insight into this.
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post #1670 of 1672 Old 06-11-2020, 01:14 PM
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Can someone tell me what the difference is between IR DATA and IR COM?


I have a CAT5 Ethernet run to my Grafik Eye QS to control it via a Harmony Hub.
On the Harmony Hub end, I have this product (Ethernet to 3.5mm male, attached to a 3.5mm female to a 2.5mm male going into the Harmony Hub.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza


I want to cut open the 3.5mm male jack end of the product linked above ( I don't know how many wires are under the hood of the product linked above but I

have posted a question on Amazon to the seller asked how many wires I will find underneath the 3.5mm male jack end of it)


The question is, after I cut open the 3.5mm male jack of the adapter product, which wires should I connect to IR DATA and IR COM?


The adapter manufacturer has shared on Amazon which wire is linked to which wire on the RJ45 block (they stated, and I quote "Our Cat5 adapters that come in our kit use lines 4,6 & 8"


Thanks in advance for anyone that can share any insight into this.
IR Data is the + terminal. This is also the wire with the writing on it. The IR COM is the negative and is the side of the emitter wire which does not have writing on it. Very simple connection.
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post #1671 of 1672 Old 06-11-2020, 03:22 PM
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IR Data is the + terminal. This is also the wire with the writing on it. The IR COM is the negative and is the side of the emitter wire which does not have writing on it. Very simple connection.

COM as in “common” electronics jargon?

Lakeview Cinema build thread
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post #1672 of 1672 Old 06-12-2020, 07:34 AM
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COM as in “common” electronics jargon?
Yes Com = Common or just C, might sometimes also refer to as Negative, Ground or Earth depending on the context, but to clarify it is not exclusively used for grounding, negative, or Earth they just get tossed into the same hat a lot. It just means it is in common in regards to what ever else is going on in that circuit.

You can ring out which wire is which with a simple meter, as suggested above, Tip is usually +, in your case Data or Signal, and marked with some writing or stripe, the Sleeve is Ground or Common & usually unmarked wire




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