"La Cinema Rockhurst" is a go! - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 184 Old 07-13-2006, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I just got my permit to begin the build yesterday.

I have read and read, and posted now since December of '05. Things moved very slowly, then last month I FINALLY got my 100 amp main breaker panel upgraded to 200 amps. That's another story in itself.

Anyway, so yesterday I got my plans, my applications, and went to the permit office. I got my plans approved!
So I have no excuses now. Please check out my plans, if you'd like, and offer feedback.

Here are some of the details...

1) Room dimensions 7' x13'x19'10". What's that? 1:1.86:2.83?
2) Acoustic ideas for sound isolation: Stud wall ~1" from concrete wall, North and East walls, and over that drywall-GG-drywall. Ceiling, South and West:Regular stud walls with DD-GG sandwich also.
3) I plan on doing 1/2 Linacoustic 1/2 poly batting on side and back walls. Linacoustics on front wall.
4) Screen looks like it may be the SMX custom screen I have seen SandmanX use. I will use a "false wall" design that so many have used here.
5) I will use a 7' riser, and a 6" stage. Seating will be determined at a later date.
6) I am debating on lighting-track lights vs "in-ceiling" cans. Anyone have any good reasons why one way or the other?
7) The column design is to hide the side surrounds. I will probably hang the rears from the wall, sans columns

Any advice or hints would be appreciated. I will start the "destruction phase" this weekend, then start making my HT!
I hope I can log my successes and failures in this forum, looking forward to feedback,
China Clipper
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post #2 of 184 Old 07-13-2006, 08:56 PM
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#2 - Consider a staggered stud wall for the South and West walls - better isolation.

#6 - I have yet to see a track light that didn't buzz and rattle and burn out bulbs if there's a serious subwoofer in the room. If you want something less intrusive, consider sconces between the columns, cans in the soffits, and rope lighting in a recessed cove up top.

Determine your seating positions first. Everything else goes from there - screen size which drives throw distance. Seat position determines riser position, etc.

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post #3 of 184 Old 07-13-2006, 10:09 PM
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Permits? We don't need no stinkin' permits.

Good luck with your project!

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post #4 of 184 Old 07-15-2006, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

#2 - Consider a staggered stud wall for the South and West walls - better isolation.
#6 - I have yet to see a track light that didn't buzz and rattle and burn out bulbs if there's a serious subwoofer in the room. If you want something less intrusive, consider sconces between the columns, cans in the soffits, and rope lighting in a recessed cove up top.

Determine your seating positions first. Everything else goes from there - screen size which drives throw distance. Seat position determines riser position, etc.

Bryan

I agree, but the West wall is an existing wall, and it is the main weight bearing wall of the basement. I would loose some width too, of course.

As far as soffits, once again, I agree, but head space is a big issue here. I hadn't planned for soffits, but I suppose it is a possibility.

By seating I meant type of seats, NOT position. Seating position is planned already. I'm just not sure what to go with. I will probably used existing couches for temp seats until I can get some REAL theater seats.

DANKAPPS used some track lights, I wonder how his theater turned out...?
Thanks for the reply!

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post #5 of 184 Old 07-16-2006, 06:37 AM
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Hey there China,

I did have to bang on a lot of displays before choosing the track lights I went with. While I don't have any rattle problems with mine, I wouldn't call my VTF-2 a "serious" sub either (by our standards around here). Don't get me wrong, It'll certainly kick you in the gut. But depending on how bass-hungry you are, that's surely something to think about.

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post #6 of 184 Old 07-16-2006, 03:30 PM
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Looks good. The only comment I'd make that hasn't been made is that the surrounds you've chosen shouldn't be hidden in a column, at least not according to Axiom. I asked about the QS8's being installed that way and got a resounding no.

Tom
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post #7 of 184 Old 07-16-2006, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tshepherd View Post

Looks good. The only comment I'd make that hasn't been made is that the surrounds you've chosen shouldn't be hidden in a column, at least not according to Axiom. I asked about the QS8's being installed that way and got a resounding no.

Tom

Hey there! Thanks for all the good suggestions. I wonder if I should just scrap the columns then, and mount direct on the wall? I'd almost hate though to give up that nice look...

I wonder if the columns were designed in a way that would allow for side and bottom firing speakers like QS4 and QS8's?



Just a rough sketch, but the design allows sound to exit from sides and bottom...
What do you think?
What are my alternatives?
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post #8 of 184 Old 07-16-2006, 11:55 PM
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post #9 of 184 Old 07-17-2006, 06:07 AM
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Interesting indeed. Might want to post on Axiom's Home Theater board and ask if either your design or EBR's would be acceptable. I'd be VERY interested as I was thinking of doing the same...
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post #10 of 184 Old 07-20-2006, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up Dan. EBR is doing something a lot like what I am going to try to do, maybe a bit less of a scale.

My rear Axioms will probably mounted directly on the wall;I think it will look fine. I kind of like the black Axioms anyway!

BTW, I asked my inspector to check out my situation, especially my ceiling height requirement. He said the 7 foot minimum limitation was indeed a rule, but, on the older "established" homes, he could be a bit more "lenient." He was cool with my idea of the 7" riser and the 6" stage too, as long as the riser didn't need a step up more than 8".

The ceiling was my biggest fear. I am glad I "got the final word" from building and safety.

So it looks like the idea of furring strips, 5/8" drywall, GG, then 1/2" drywall is a go! BTW, this is the inspector that actually will do the inspecting at my location too!

Incidentally, he suggested the "blown in" cellulose-like insulation for the ceiling and walls; (sigh) more research!!

Last weekend, I was able to pull up carpet, pull down my "suspended" ceiling (was a dirty stinky job), and then next is the paneling. I think my wife will help me on that one;she hates that panelling!

PS: How do I post a picture so it shows up on my post, and not as a link? I DID read the FAQs, but didn't see it....
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post #11 of 184 Old 07-21-2006, 10:12 AM
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Wow, this thread is like deja vu! I have a 19'3" X 13'3" X 7' 3" room in a corner in my basement with two outside walls.
I am just starting to pull up the carpet. I will have to take down the drop ceiling and paneling as well.
I am pretty sure that I will be using a 7" riser and a 6" stage, false screen wall with an AT 2:35 screen.

I will be watching your thread carefully as I will be about 3 or so months behind you.

Good Luck with your project! Oh, and I played the drums for 12 years, and live in the Midwest. Sorry, I don't have 12 girls...
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post #12 of 184 Old 07-21-2006, 11:31 AM
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Rockhurst? Are you in the KC area?

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post #13 of 184 Old 07-21-2006, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Judsonp:
Thanks for the kind words. Someone on this board said to plan for about 50% more time to complete your project than you originally thought, and do the same for budget.

Having said that, I have found that the "critical path timeline" idea works real well.
You plan for "landmark" events in the build, like demo, framing, etc.
Of course the first step is just to get going.



I have found that more than six months of planning and reading and researching has only BEGUN to get me ready. Scary, but real rewarding as well.

The BEST thing I did was to decide to get and take out permits for the build and the electrical. For some reason, those things just "gnawed" at me, I'm glad I did it. Although I MAY change my mind when they come in and actually start their "inspectin'"

The second best was deciding to use a designer for the build. Unfortunately, I think I decided on the wrong designer, but, live and learn. There is a designer here, DE, and he seems to certainly be worth his asking price, and more, from what I have read.

On a personal note, my 12 girls are all from 18-22 years old. Sometimes I feel like I am the acting "dad" of all 12 girls, but, hey, no diapers...

ND23-I am in Nebraska
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post #14 of 184 Old 07-27-2006, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, we got almost all the "deconstruction" started or finished. Almost ready to start putting up walls.

Hopefully this weekend I'll start screwing down some baseplates, cutting some wood, and framing.

PS: Oh, and I gotta close off that window!!
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post #15 of 184 Old 07-28-2006, 04:12 AM
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Good luck man. I'm here in Omaha too and am just finishing mine up. I am using the same screen material and had the same problems with a narrow basement. I ended up tapering my columns on the side so they are very narrow at the bottom of the wall and slope up to the top. Gave me more room to pass by them, but hold my M&K surrounds fine. You will overcome everything. Only wish I had put more space between my "screen wall" and actual front wall. It would have helped me with Sub placement options. Oh well, I'm still happy with the results.
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post #16 of 184 Old 07-28-2006, 09:41 AM
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China and Judsonp, count me in for a 13'3" x 20' x 8' theater as well. Mine is also in the basement with 2 poured concrete walls on the front and right side. Left wall is stud wall that has the basement bath, laundry room and stairwell on the other side. Rear wall is stud wall that will have our small office on the other side. I just got through about an hour ago unloading the rest of my lumber that I need to finish the framing. I work evening shift, so I can work on my room during the day. Will be following this thread with interest, as my timeline will be similar to China's. Good luck, guys. I'm planning on two rows of three seats, 7.1 hidden in columns and proscenium, stage and riser, soffits.........the whole enchilada. Can't wait!!

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post #17 of 184 Old 07-28-2006, 11:11 AM
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Chinaclipper,

Concerning the placement of your Panasonic 900UE projector, I would re-think the placement as you, your family and or your guests will be doing the limbo, ducking or bumping their head on the unit if placed between the two rows of seats. Look into a long throw lens and place the projector toward the back of the room.

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post #18 of 184 Old 07-31-2006, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Ye View Post

Chinaclipper,

Concerning the placement of your Panasonic 900UE projector, I would re-think the placement as you, your family and or your guests will be doing the limbo, ducking or bumping their head on the unit if placed between the two rows of seats. Look into a long throw lens and place the projector toward the back of the room.

Mark:
Interesting comment, I have been wondering about that myself. One question to you- I though the Panasonic 900 was "good to go" from about 10'-19'?

I guess the long throw lens gets the picture to the screen without getting blocked by the audiance, right?
I will look into that.
Thanks Marc

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post #19 of 184 Old 07-31-2006, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, this weekend my nephew and I put up two of the three walls I needed to frame. It was much easier once I a) figured out that the guy at HD gave me the WRONG gas cylinder for the Paslode nail gun and b) we got the "system" going;ie, one would cut while the other would place the studs.

The first picture is the woodpile,with the footers in place;headers cut and resting on top. The next is a picture of how I "plugged" the window. I used a sheet of MDF and some styro insulation to make a rattle-proof (I hope) seal.

The final is a picture of the three studded walls. Love those flourescent lights... BTW...Getting rid of those and the nasty 1/4" fake mahogany panelling that was on the left wall will be a MAJOR WAF....

Next to do is finish the "door wall". I am putting in a 2'-8" door, my wife says she thinks it should be bigger-like a 2'10". Argh. What do you think? should I go with the bigger one? Will my furniture fit?!?!?!

China
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post #20 of 184 Old 08-02-2006, 08:29 PM
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The interior doors in the rest of our house are 3' doors, so that's what I'll be using for the 2 I need in the HT. One for the entrance in the left side, one for the entrance to the office in the left rear. I'd like to only have one door in the HT, but I guess you can't have it all.

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post #21 of 184 Old 08-06-2006, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finished the rest of the framing on Friday. Wow! All done with that chore. Next is to "de-wire" and then "re-wire the theater.

I am having a friend help me, permits in place, then I will have the inspector do his thing, hopefully in a few weeks or less.

I am going to try to do the "in-ceiling" cans for ceiling light, and sconces to fill in on the sides, with two riser lights well, just because it looks cool.

I have gotten a lot of good ideas about placing the Halo 5" new construction cans in sound-resistant/fire resistant boxes, so that will entail me purchasing the green glue.

I can hardly wait to get that project over with and start to drywall.
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post #22 of 184 Old 08-14-2006, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I am off this week, so I hopefully will get some things done. Last week, there was lots of busy-work in the build-nothing major but it keeps me busy! I finished the de-wiring and bought wiring, Green Glue, 5" Halo IC lights, and material for my ceiling light boxes.
This weekend I built the light boxes, and green glued and acoustical caulked 'em. That is a major chore, I am here to tell you! Hopefully I'll get the boxes up early this week. I am not sure how I'll mount them, I don't think I can afford $125 just for the RSIC clips (ouch!) I'll probably screw them to the joists, maybe I'll use rubber washers or something....

List of things to do soon: After I pass my framing inspection......

1) get low voltage conduit, then get holes drilled and install speaker wire
2) run hi volt wiring to o/h lights, sconces, stage and riser lights, and wire outlets
3) install and rig Grafix Eye 3104
4) install all other low voltage, ie CAT5e wiring etc..
5) install ceiling mount base for projector, incl. power and all lines to same
6) Purchase all sconce lighting boxes, install same
7) Research and purchase IR system for remotes
8) Contact HVAC guy and ask about installing more outlets in HT, possibly sound limiting ideas
9) Research how to install sconces w/o breaking drywall-greenglue drywall plane
10)Continue to read and research all the above for ideas how other do it!!


That should keep my busy for awhile, huh? I can't even SMELL drywall yet....
Tom
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post #23 of 184 Old 08-17-2006, 10:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I can't believe how much time and energy I put into those light boxes. I am sure there is an easier, faster way to do it, but here is a primer on how I did it.
Thanks to ScottJ0007 and Gary Kagen.
Oh yeah, I passed my framing inspection


Hopefully, I'll finish the rest of the boxes tomorrow. I made a little "template" out of scrap furring strips, 5/8 drywall, and 1/2" drywall so I can see if it will work. Ideally, the 5/8" drywall will completely surround the box;it will be acoustically sealed with caulk, then the 1/2" drywall will cover the bottom with the hole of the lamp going thru the 1/2".
It's a good theory, but I am anxious to see how my "poor man's" RSIC clips work.

(sigh) Time for bed, and dream of other things I need to do.

Oh, BTW, the HVAC guy came out today (yesterday?) and gave me some great ideas.
He suggested I move the intake register away from the unit (much more quiet that way) will install one more register and duct, install better registers so I can do my columns (yeah) and will re-do my plenum boxes with something called thermal pan. It looks like aluminized cardboard. Should be much more useful then those rattling tin plates.

I am happy, I will pack duct channels/routes with insulation and hope it will do the trick, or at least better then what I have now...

Tom
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post #24 of 184 Old 08-18-2006, 05:46 AM
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Cool idea on the light boxes. Mind if I steal it?

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post #25 of 184 Old 08-18-2006, 11:28 AM
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Tom: Did you give any thought to using multiple rubber washers? In one picture it looks like it's clamped down pretty tight.
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post #26 of 184 Old 08-18-2006, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Cool idea on the light boxes. Mind if I steal it?

Eddie: I am honored but I really must give the credit to ScottJ0007;he gave me the drawing and idea on another forum topic (Gary Kagen's on building light boxes). I am sure he wouldn't mind, and besides, he gives ALL the specs and sizes on the boxes so it made it REALLY cool to do; OK so maybe not cool but it did work out really well.
Quote:


Tom: Did you give any thought to using multiple rubber washers? In one picture it looks like it's clamped down pretty tight

Vorlon (wasn't that the bad guys on Babylon 5?

That really big one that looked like a juke box? I used a few more washers on some, one on others. The washers make great gaskets too. I am so anal retentive I made all my boxes be level.. hahaha
I am sure I am not the only one to do that, but I bet I am the only one to actually build a "ceiling mock-up" to see how it would work, and make sure the boxes would sit "just so".
I could have used more washers, I made the bolts 4 inches to allow for such measures, but I really didn't need it. I figure one layer works as well as two, or more.... BTW, those darn washers aren't cheap either. Make sure you get the ones just big enough-don't go crazy on sizes. It goes from like 15 cents to 50 cents.
Oh well, tomorrow we rough in some of the electrical-no lights in the boxes yet, just wire. Gotta rough-in and show Mr Inspector first!!

Hopefully we'll put in a few conduit courses and speaker wire too...

BTW, a contact I know says Menards has plastic conduit (for underground sprinklers) that runs 1" and 1 1/2" for like $24 a roll of 100 feet. That is almost 1/4th of what the orange smurf conduit stuff runs.) I'll check it tomorrow.

Tom
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post #27 of 184 Old 08-20-2006, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, that "plastic conduit" turned out to be 1" plastic sprinkler pipe. Not flexible enough for me; negative Ghostrider.....

However, I DID come across some 1 1/4" sump pump pipe (corregated plastic) that looks like it may do fine. At $6/24 feet, it might do the trick. My electrician friend assures me that all I need is a pathway, and code doesn't specify or forbid this type of conduit for L/V applications.
We got some GOM samples Friday (along with my IR stuff from SmartHome) so we get a chance to start seriously considering colors. I am favoring a burgandy with black mix, kind of half and half, with black GOM below the chair rail.

Unfortunately, today is "back to work". The first Sunday before school starts necessitates pre-competion physicals, which means we are busy from 0900hrs to 2100hrs. Not much time for doing HT things. However, it's always good to see the kids returning from home-ah the pitter-patter of little feet... And no, Mickey Rooney is NOT coming to dinner......

I DID have a chance last night to start pulling wire and "wiring up" the ceiling cans. Next is to finish the electrical rough-in and get the electrical inspection out of the way, then insulation and, dare I say it (I dare-I dare!!) drywalling.

Have a great week everyone
Tom
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post #28 of 184 Old 08-28-2006, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, the HVAC guy came out last week, installed an extra line, moved my return, and gave some good advice all around. My inspector came out this noon, gave everything a green light, but I need to make a "hi-low" return on my upper basement door.

Shouldn't be a problem, it's not in my theater, it's the door upstairs that leads to the basement. The inspector said I need more air into the laundry room where the water heater is.... No worries!

Did finish the ceiling cans wiring, and started pulling the rest of the sconce wiring. Next I need to finalise placement and wire the outlets to be located in the columns, and then get the inspector out again to do the electrical "rough-in".

Oh yeah, on the advice of "she who must be obeyed" I changed the 32" door to a 36" door. I would HATE to have to listen to those "I told you so's!!" if my chairs seating wouldn't fit in...

Right on schedule so far, still looking for a mid-November opening.

BTW, I got my allotment of "Fidelio Velvet" for the screen and proscenium area. Man! That stuff is BLACK!!!
Later,
Tom
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post #29 of 184 Old 09-04-2006, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Did some more work last weekend-Mostly finishing up on wiring the lights and finishing the outlets. I put some extra ones in "just in case", so it took a few more hours longer than I thought.

Next will be to have a friend look at my work, and "pre-inspect" it for the inspectors.

BTW, I found some 3/4" "smurf tube" Corlon orange LV conduit at HD, never saw it there until yesterday. I will see how many 12/2 speaker wire runs I can get in there.

Still a bit unsure how I am going to mount my outlet boxes with my 2 7/8th inch thick walls.....
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post #30 of 184 Old 09-04-2006, 02:46 PM
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Way to keep rolling, Tom!!

The Vorlons weren't so much the bad guys as the Shadows were, but yeah, Kosh sorta looked like a jukebox, didn't he??
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