Who Makes Acoustical Caulk? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Although I've never seen it, I stopped by HD and Lowes today looking for said caulk. Neither store carried it and neither employee had ever heard of it.


Is there a special chalk you guys are using, or are you just using a basic GP chalk? If there is a special product that should be used, who makes it, where can you get it, and what makes it different other than the label???
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Never mind, I just did a Google search and answered my own question.

At $7.50 - $10.00 a tube, I think I'll take my chances with plain old GP caulk.
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post #3 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 08:10 PM
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Call a local building supplier specializing in drywall. The last time I looked it was $4-5 for big tubes.

http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?resou...al_Sealant.htm
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post #4 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 10:05 PM
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Wha? I used caulk brand caulk. The Green Glue guys say just use "caulk". I'm sure if there were some kind of fanciness to caulk, they'd be selling it and have all the research and testing data to back it up. Basically, the purpose of the caulk is make sure you have a good seal, and that's about it.
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 10:21 PM
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TheGeek is right. I'm trying to understand what Wet1 is even trying to accomplish, he really is not telling us the purpose.

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post #6 of 25 Old 12-08-2006, 10:41 PM
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Do a forum search for "USG Acoustical Sealant" to get a better idea of its uses. I used it to seal up the gaps in my first layer of drywall, and also to seal the gap between the floor and the bottom of the drywall. I'll probably go back and seal up the air gaps around my electric boxes as well. I think some people also look for a 50 year caulk. The idea is to get something that will still have some flex in it when it dries.

As BIGmouthinDC mentioned, the easiest place to find it is at a drywall supply place. They sell it in the big tubes (same size as green glue) and isn't much more expensive than regular caulk you would get from a big box store.

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post #7 of 25 Old 12-09-2006, 05:57 AM
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Sure, one could use any old caulk. But, when USG sells a jumbo tube for the price of regular caulk... it's a no brainer.
I wonder if the Quietrock guy would tell me that I don't need Green Glue?

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post #8 of 25 Old 12-09-2006, 07:16 AM
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I was told that the 50 year elastomeric caulk sold by Home depot and lowes and most other places was in fact acoustical caulk and that is what I used. about 3.50 I tube if I remember and it comes in Black as well as white and clear.

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post #9 of 25 Old 12-09-2006, 02:31 PM
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This is from data I gathered in September 2005. So the links may be out of date.

Acoustic Caulk = 50 year caulk.

As far as your caulk, I would recommend using an "Acoustical Sealant". Most other caulks either dry hard or shrink over time. Causing an opening for flanking sound. Acoustical sealant is non-hardening and flexible and doesn't shrink. If you're having problems trying to find it, search for your local supply houses of drywall, insulation or steel framing supply places. Basically where the contractors go. There are several different brands to choose from...eg: Boss, Grabber, Tite Bond, etc.

Cost and size. Big tubes only need to be changed a third as often. At about $5 nowadays for a big fat 29-oz cartridge of OSI SC-175 Acoustical Sealant, that's equivalent to under $2 for a 10.1 oz tube. And you don't have to go crazy looking if you just call a local drywall supplier (not home improvement warehouse). They probably order from OSI routinely. Get a case or two and caulk away.

Eric Desart Says: Butyl acoustic caulks will also absorb vibration, so they are best

Rod Gervais says: GE Silicone II is the Mercedes of caulks, but if you only have a Chevy budget, OSI SC-175 will get you there too.

Brian Ravnaas (paraphrased): USG Caulk. Cleans up well. Works as well as the others

OSI SC-175 $2.97 US / 29oz (10 cents US per oz)
http://www.84lumber.com/stores/zip_search.asp
http://www.osiproseries.com/adhesive...sound-sealant/
http://doityourself.com/store/specialtycaulks.htm
http://www.osiliterature.com/IMAGE/PDF/sO11175.PDF
Cheap: http://www.toolup.com/powertools/id/SC175/brand/OSI_Sealants/name/29oz_sound_sealant_(NEW).htm

Lepage PL Acousti-Seal $4.97 CDN / 850 ml ($3.75 / 29 oz, or 13 cents US per oz)
http://www.lepageproducts.com/produc...id=69&plid=260
http://www.lepageproducts.com/produc...y.asp?catID=26
unhappy mess: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3104

USG SHEETROCK® Brand Acoustical Sealant ($4.66 / 29oz, or 16 cents US per oz )
http://www.capmat.com/images/bulletin_8_5_04.htm $4.66 / 29oz
http://www.usg.com/IC/products/Sealants/Acoustic.asp
http://literature.usg.com/pdf/J678.pdf
http://www.allchurchsound.com/ACS/ed...torletter.html (review)
available at whitecapdirect.com
"I just picked up a 29 oz tube of USG SHEETROCK® Brand Acoustical Sealant for $5.99 at Midtown Lumber & Hardware in New York City"

Mono acoustical sealant $1.89CDN / 10oz ($7.30US / 29oz, or 25 cents US per oz)
Price from Canadian Tire.

Soundsealant 29 oz. $7.50 US (or 26 cents US per oz)
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/p...ants/caulk.asp

Owens Corning Acoustical Caulk $2.89 / 10oz from special order from Lowes (29 cents US per oz)

Grabber® Acoustical Sealant GSCS $13.50 NZ / 850ml ($8.77 US / 29oz, or 30 cents US per oz)
http://www.grabberman.com/acousticaldata.htm

GE Silicone II $5.25 CDN / 300 ml ($4 / 10oz, or 40 cents US per oz)

Titebond® Acoustical Sound Sealant $17.98 US / 29oz (or 62 cents us per oz)
http://www.amistorefront.com/detail.aspx?ID=285 $17.98 US
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/p...ants/caulk.asp $7.50US.

$17.98 / 29 oz (62 cents s per oz)
http://order.americanmicroinc.com/cg...croinc/AS.html

QuietSeal QS-350 29oz Contractors Tube $19.95 US (or 69 cents US per oz)
http://www.quietsolution.com/constru...adhesives.html

Auralex StopGap Acoustical Sealant ($19.95 / 29 oz, 69 cents us per oz)
http://www.auralex.com/acoustic_seal...nt_stopgap.asp
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...rch&Q=&ci=8390

S.T.O.P. Noise
http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/se...alant.htm?d=18

Boss 824 Acoustical Sealant (Disavowed by Knightfly)
http://www.bossproducts.com/BossProd...alog.asp?cat=2
bottom of the page/

"The Boss seemed to dry up and shrink a little bit, so I had to go back around and fill in some spots. I didn't have that much of a problem w/ the Grabber or Titebond, but I've used only a couple tubes of the Titebond so far. It's all easy cleanup though. No oily silicone stuff. "
Aaron
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/vi...&p=14791#14791


http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3640
Heat the tubes up first in a bucket of warm to hot water. The stuff will oozze out.
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post #10 of 25 Old 12-09-2006, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Bob... I just ordered 7 tubes of the OSI SC-175 from ToolUp.
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post #11 of 25 Old 12-20-2006, 09:31 PM
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Does anyone know if OSI SC-175 Acoustical Sealant is acceptable to fill gap between walls floating on isomax clips? I want to make sure I do not compromise by IsoMax wall/ceiling installation by using the wrong caulk. I remember reading somewhere to use a butyl sealant like QuietSeal 350 since it is non-drying. The SC-175 is a synthetic latex rubber that cures but claims to remain permantly flexible. Also the SC-175 can be painted overwhile the Quiet Seal 350 cannot. I can get SC-175 at the local drywall supply company for $2.50/28 once tube.


Regards,

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post #12 of 25 Old 04-09-2007, 08:18 AM
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anyone have any further comments or ideas?....i need to order some of this and wonder what is considered the best?

thanks
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post #13 of 25 Old 04-09-2007, 08:29 AM
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Here is a suggestions: Check with you local drywall supplier Makes a lot more sense to pick up the product at a local store than to have to pay all that shipping for a heavy product.

I found some of the OSI SC-175 $2.97 US / 29oz (10 cents US per oz) caulk right here in good old Lincoln, NE.
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post #14 of 25 Old 04-09-2007, 01:23 PM
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All you need to do is go to Home Depot and get 50 Yr caulk that is the same animal. It also comes in colors which was nice for my black treated wall behind the fake screen wall.

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post #15 of 25 Old 04-10-2007, 12:57 PM
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I have seen posts on both ways, but is there really a need to caulk the drywall seams before you mud them? I have a few places where the gaps are a little large, and I put some caulk there, but most of the seems are pretty tight, and there isn't room for much caulk, I had intended to only do the gap at the floor. is it necessary to caulk all joints?

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post #16 of 25 Old 04-10-2007, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall View Post

All you need to do is go to Home Depot and get 50 Yr caulk that is the same animal. It also comes in colors which was nice for my black treated wall behind the fake screen wall.

Is this true ?...cause I love the colors.


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post #17 of 25 Old 04-10-2007, 03:09 PM
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Some of us don't even need to mud at all as walls are covered with fabric and sound treatment. But Yes you should use the acoustic caulk before or in place of mudding. and in your electrical boxes etc.

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post #18 of 25 Old 04-11-2007, 12:08 PM
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Tremco Acoustic sealant is generally available locally and is really flexible, gooey, oozy, stretchy, and all of those. Its solvent based and harder to work with as its tough to squeeze out of the tubes. From a theoretical-properties standpoint, its probably the best widely available acoustical sealant. Its 6 bucks or so in 29 oz tubes here.

The USG sealant is easier to work with and water based and generally a little cheaper. Other sealants are available as well in both solvent and water based, i certainly am not intimately familiar with them all and could not say "best, next best, worst, etc."

alot of 50 year caulks are more flexible than alot of water based "acoustical sealants", and in general latex sealants do contain the heavy fillers taht are advantageous when covering large cracks, etc.

Sealants can, if their properties are right, add a bit of damping to a wall. Not enough to matter much, just a tiny bit at the coincidence dip, which for theater construction shouldn't be the primary concern. In a wall with even the tiniest dab of Green Glue, this small amount of damping doesn't mean anything because the GG supplies much more than any caulk to hope to.

On walls where drywall is screwed right up to the studs, the flexibility of the sealant won't have much effect on the behavior at all because the edge of the drywall is already rigidly constrained by the screws.

On walls - clips and resilient channel - where one edge of the wall is "free" to move, a more flexible sealant may (or may not, i've never seen a test to outline this) have advantages.

The most important thing is that you seal the wall. I can't imagine any situation where i'd be happier with 1 bead of an esoteric (often just repackaged name-brand stuff with a new label) sealant -vs- 3 of something cheap. Better yet, 5 of something really cheap.

A seal is 10^90th important, but how one attains it on the vast majority of walls is far less important.

GGCos recommendatiosn are just based on our experiences in field and lab tests and permusing what precious little data we have ever found. USG once compared their sealant to a very ideal putty type material, and found essentially no difference save at the high frequency end of things at the coincidence dip.

Understanding sound isolation
That link may be helpful
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-11-2007, 12:16 PM
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The advantage of an "acoustical sealant" is permanent flexiblity, so that the seals don't fail when building shift a bit, or the film doesn't just degrade over time and stop sealing.

I don't feel that all of the acoustical sealants sold necessarily have any advantage over normal old boring caulks available everywhere in this regard (though some certainly may), and with the exception noted above about resilient edges of walls (an additional such case might be if the wall is floated on some type of resilient layer such as that sold by Kinetics), the properties of the sealant become less important than ensuring that a good seal exists.

Truly, for a normal wood stud wall bolted to whatever surface is below, it is just that a good seal exists that is important, except perhaps from a longevity standpoint.

You folks can hold me to that when the day comes that GGCo releases a sealant.

Understanding sound isolation
That link may be helpful
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post #20 of 25 Old 05-16-2007, 09:00 PM
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again, any ideas on how to best apply this stuff?

i bought a case (12) of it and now it doesnt seem like i have much to do at all

my HT has an open back with DD and GG on the entire ceiling...walls are nothing special with single layer 1/2"

so where do i caulk?...all seams?...i read to do down low where drwall stops?...

will this stuff pi$$ off the drywall finisher?
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post #21 of 25 Old 05-17-2007, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwhitmore View Post

again, any ideas on how to best apply this stuff?

i bought a case (12) of it and now it doesnt seem like i have much to do at all

my HT has an open back with DD and GG on the entire ceiling...walls are nothing special with single layer 1/2"

so where do i caulk?...all seams?...i read to do down low where drwall stops?...

will this stuff pi$$ off the drywall finisher?

I ended up going with the OSI. My local drywall supply house had it in stock, about $2.50 per 29 oz tube. what I ended up doing (hopefully this is alright) was putting a caulk bead down all seams, and between the floor and drywall. I also did the seams in my plywood. after I put the bead on, I ran over it with a putty knife to flatten it out (so I could mud over the top of it). Once it came time to mud, I didn't even know it was there, so I am sure your drywall guys won't notice. A bigger issue for you might be that they usually hang and tape in the same day, but you'll need to get in there before they tape it to put in your caulk...

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post #22 of 25 Old 05-17-2007, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rm1759 View Post

I ended up going with the OSI. My local drywall supply house had it in stock, about $2.50 per 29 oz tube. what I ended up doing (hopefully this is alright) was putting a caulk bead down all seams, and between the floor and drywall. I also did the seams in my plywood. after I put the bead on, I ran over it with a putty knife to flatten it out (so I could mud over the top of it). Once it came time to mud, I didn't even know it was there, so I am sure your drywall guys won't notice. A bigger issue for you might be that they usually hang and tape in the same day, but you'll need to get in there before they tape it to put in your caulk...

hey rob

thanks for the advice, they are finishing hanging today and won't start taping until tomorrow or monday at the earliest...so i have some time

i will just try and hit all the seams that i can, did you have any issues with the stuff expanding or contracting?

thanks again

brad
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post #23 of 25 Old 05-17-2007, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwhitmore View Post

hey rob

thanks for the advice, they are finishing hanging today and won't start taping until tomorrow or monday at the earliest...so i have some time

i will just try and hit all the seams that i can, did you have any issues with the stuff expanding or contracting?

thanks again

brad

No, not at all. the biggest problem I had were a couple of large gaps at the bottom. I used foam backer rod, and caulked around that. I also caulked around the HVAC supplies and returns, and electrical boxes...

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post #24 of 25 Old 05-21-2007, 08:52 AM
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i applied my caulk this weekend, man what a PITA!...

the stuff wasn't water based so it was very messy

i tried to apply it to the bigger gaps but most of the drywall was fit together pretty tightly so there wasn't that much to do

i had planned to caulk down low where the drywall meets the floor but that proved almost impossible with those big tubes and larger caulking gun

i think in the long run it will help, and it was good for the big gaps...but it sure wasn't easy

just my $.02

brad
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post #25 of 25 Old 05-21-2007, 09:12 AM
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It just seems like a waste of money using the caulk to seal drywall butt joints you will later tape and bed. The caulk is mostly used to seal around electrical boxes, the gap between bottom edge and floor by the bottom plate, and in some cases around the perimeter of the room.

A lot of the theater builders that choose not to tape and bed the drywall use it to seal the drywall joints, but that is not the main use.



USG Acoustical Sealant

OSI SC-175 Sealant
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