Found easy way to make fabric frames - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 114 Old 12-14-2006, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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After completing just 5 frames made out of MDF, I got really tired of the mess and the amount of time that was needed to complete the frames. So, I started to look online for anything that might be easier and found something.... canvas stretcher bars.

The company that I ordered the bars from is www.frenchcanvas.com and they are located in Hamilton, NJ. The contact there is Rob. They stock 3 different quality of bars... standard, heavy duty, and extra heavy duty. The difference is in the thickness of the wood and the type of wood. They sell the bars in singles and in packs of 50 for the standard and packs of 12 for heavy duty and extra heavy duty and are reasonably priced. Actually, going this way was almost the same cost wise except there is MUCH less labor involved.

Honestly for me, the price did not make a difference because I saved ALOT of time and energy!!! To build the 5 frames from MDF (from cut to glue to assembly), it took almost a whole day. With the stretcher bars, I just built 50 frames in less than an hour AND there was no mess AND the bars fit together WITHOUT nails or glue!!!

Also, they have free shipping with orders that are $200 or more.

Just an FYI, I ordered the standard bars.


Here are the pics:
LL
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post #2 of 114 Old 12-14-2006, 07:47 PM
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Are you using this to frame OC703 or other acoustic material?

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post #3 of 114 Old 12-14-2006, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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The top 54" of the wall will just have the panels with nothing behind them. The bottom 42" will have Linacoustic behind it. All of the panels will be covered in Dazian Expo cloth and nailed to 3/4" thick wood strips that have been nailed to the wall that are running horizontally across the walls. The Linacoustic will be placed between the wood strips.

For the corners, I'll be making corner traps out of OC703.
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post #4 of 114 Old 12-14-2006, 08:45 PM
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I am very curious about this. Please post a picture of a finished frame from all angles so I can see how these go together and what they look like covered in fabric. Thanks!
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post #5 of 114 Old 12-14-2006, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky08016 View Post

After completing just 5 frames made out of MDF, I got really tired of the mess and the amount of time that was needed to complete the frames. So, I started to look online for anything that might be easier and found something.... canvas stretcher bars.

The company that I ordered the bars from is www.frenchcanvas.com and they are located in Hamilton, NJ. The contact there is Rob. They stock 3 different quality of bars... standard, heavy duty, and extra heavy duty. The difference is in the thickness of the wood and the type of wood. They sell the bars in singles and in packs of 50 for the standard and packs of 12 for heavy duty and extra heavy duty and are reasonably priced. Actually, going this way was almost the same cost wise except there is MUCH less labor involved.

Honestly for me, the price did not make a difference because I saved ALOT of time and energy!!! To build the 5 frames from MDF (from cut to glue to assembly), it took almost a whole day. With the stretcher bars, I just built 50 frames in less than an hour AND there was no mess AND the bars fit together WITHOUT nails or glue!!!

Also, they have free shipping with orders that are $200 or more.

Just an FYI, I ordered the standard bars.


Here are the pics:


I'm curious to see what they look like covered as well. please send a pic when you get one covered...this would save me a lot of time as well! Thanks for the tip!
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post #6 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 04:46 AM
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I am also interested in seeing some pictures. Does the frame provide you with a a beveled edge look or is it square?

Thanks for sharing your find.

T.Wells
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post #7 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Wells View Post

I am also interested in seeing some pictures. Does the frame provide you with a a beveled edge look or is it square?

Thanks for sharing your find.

T.Wells

The frame has a rounded edge. If you get the thicker stretcher bars, you can assemble them and then bevel them with either a table router or table saw.

The thickness of the bars are as follows:

Standard: 11/16" deep (fir wood)
Heavy Duty: 1 1/2" deep (kiln dried pine wood)
Extra Heavy Duty: 1 3/4" deep (basswood)

Take a look at the following link:
http://www.frenchcanvas.com/main_stretcher_bars.asp

You can see the edge better on those pics. I'll take pics when I can today. Keep in mind that since they are for frames made to be purchased in bulk, you may need to sand some of the edges down very little to make them perfect.

Edit: Fabric will be ordered after the holidays (mid Jan.) so I won't have any pics with them covered in fabric but I will post pics of the actual assembled frame without fabric of course. Keep in mind that these stretcher bars are made to be covered in some type of fabric.
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post #8 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 05:39 AM
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Are you doing strategically placed panels or the whole room ala Gpowers?
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post #9 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Are you doing strategically placed panels or the whole room ala Gpowers?

The whole room will be panelled. I'll try to describe as best as possible...

Let's take the longest wall as an example:

Wall: 24'L x 8'H

Top 54" will have 3 rows of 18" panels. First 3 columns towards the front of the room will be eggplant (Dazian Expo) . Then a column of black (Dazian Expo). Then 3 columns of eggplant again. Then a column of black.... and so on. Between the eggplant and black panels will be a stained wood (3/4" rounded edge) of some type. The cluster of 9 eggplant panels will not have anything between them, only when black meets eggplant.

The bottom 42" will be all black but will be broken up by panels in size that mimic the clusters above. So, under the cluster of 9 eggplant 18" frames will be a 54"L x 42" H frame and under the cluster of 3 black will be a 18"L x 42"H frame. Also separating the bottom frames will be the same stained wood (3/4" rounded edge) of some type.

Separating the top from the bottom will be moulding or chair rail... haven't figured that part out yet.

Here another pic to help better visualize:
LL
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post #10 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some more pics from different angles.
Sorry, some of them are a little blurry...
LL
LL
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post #11 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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And some more:
LL
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post #12 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Some more again:
LL
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post #13 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:40 AM
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Stupid Question:

If there is no gluing and nailing, how do the frames stay together?
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post #14 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMGambone View Post

Stupid Question:

If there is no gluing and nailing, how do the frames stay together?

When the slots " fit" together, they are VERY tight. You need a rubber mallet in order to assemble the frames.
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post #15 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 06:56 AM
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One question, are you going to put any fiberglass backing behind the fabric? Just curious.

Thanks again for the link.

Poppin' pixels like Viagra...
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post #16 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighDefJam View Post

One question, are you going to put any fiberglass backing behind the fabric? Just curious.

Thanks again for the link.

Linacoustic.

From post #3:
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky08016 View Post

The top 54" of the wall will just have the panels with nothing behind them. The bottom 42" will have Linacoustic behind it. All of the panels will be covered in Dazian Expo cloth and nailed to 3/4" thick wood strips that have been nailed to the wall that are running horizontally across the walls. The Linacoustic will be placed between the wood strips.

For the corners, I'll be making corner traps out of OC703.

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post #17 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 07:32 AM
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How are you planning to secure the Linacoustic to the back of the panel?

Very interesting find!

Thanks.

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post #18 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 07:41 AM
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Chucky08016,

I took the liberty of creating your wall in Sketchup as sometimes a visual is easier to understand. Hope you don't mind. If you do please let me know and I will remove it.
The wall with the panel mock up is to scale based on your description above.



Also, I know that the color isn't really eggplant but my choices in that app are limited.
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post #19 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emillika View Post

How are you planning to secure the Linacoustic to the back of the panel?

Very interesting find!

Thanks.

It's pretty rigid, so friction fit will work. I assume frame, then fabric, then linacoustic. Might have missed it. Are the frames 1" in depth?

Bud
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post #20 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 08:16 AM
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Bud,

Post #7 -

Quote:


Standard: 11/16" deep (fir wood)
Heavy Duty: 1 1/2" deep (kiln dried pine wood)
Extra Heavy Duty: 1 3/4" deep (basswood)

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post #21 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judsonp View Post

Chucky08016,

I took the liberty of creating your wall in Sketchup as sometimes a visual is easier to understand. Hope you don't mind. If you do please let me know and I will remove it.
The wall with the panel mock up is to scale based on your description above.



Also, I know that the color isn't really eggplant but my choices in that app are limited.

Don't mind at all. Wall pattern is very close except that the black columns are raised away from the wall about 8 inches (I think... haven't figured that part out yet.). The sides of the columns will be stained wood similar to the wood floor that you see in some of my pics. Also, the color eggplant is more of a wine/burgundy color.

Thanks for modeling!!! Really do appreciate!!!
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post #22 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 08:49 AM
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These frames are used by artists who "stretch" their own canvas. No glue or hardware is needed at the wood's joinery because of the pressure fit, as mentioned, AND because they are held together by the stretch of the canvas - the "whole becoming greater than the sum of its parts" sort of thing. Stretching with equal tension in both directions makes for a very sturdy assembly.

This is a great idea Chucky! The only cautionary thing I can think of is if the acoustic fabric is stretched too tightly over the frame, making the fabric more visually transparent. Choosing a black fiber board or blanket behind the eggplant and black Dazian becomes important!

Even Frederick thought his grandfather's work was doodoo before he gave it a stab
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post #23 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emillika View Post

How are you planning to secure the Linacoustic to the back of the panel?

Very interesting find!

Thanks.

Linacoustic will secured to wall between the horizontally mounted wood strips that the bottom wall frames are going to be mounted to.
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post #24 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsoon View Post

These frames are used by artists who "stretch" their own canvas. No glue or hardware is needed at the wood's joinery because of the pressure fit, as mentioned, AND because they are held together by the stretch of the canvas - the "whole becoming greater than the sum of its parts" sort of thing. Stretching with equal tension in both directions makes for a very sturdy assembly.

This is a great idea Chucky! The only cautionary thing I can think of is if the acoustic fabric is stretched too tightly over the frame, making the fabric more visually transparent. Choosing a black fiber board or blanket behind the eggplant and black Dazian becomes important!

Thanks!!! I got the idea while looking online for an easier solution and stumbled on a thread on www.smxscreen.com. Sandman's thread had idea's on how to make very large cheap screens out of stretcher bars. So, I started to look for stretcher bars and www.frenchcanvas.com came up.

Bottom of walls will have linacoustic (naturally black).
Top of walls will be painted black.
Frames will be painted black.
Also, the room is light controlled.... even with the lights on full, it's still kinda dim in the room.
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post #25 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 09:08 AM
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Chucky,

Just to clarify... There will be an air gap between the Dazian and the Linacoustic the thickness of the stretcher bars? Are there mounting strips above the Linacoustic to keep the top fabric flush with the bottom fabric?

Even Frederick thought his grandfather's work was doodoo before he gave it a stab
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post #26 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsoon View Post

Chucky,

Just to clarify... There will be an air gap between the Dazian and the Linacoustic the thickness of the stretcher bars? Are there mounting strips above the Linacoustic to keep the top fabric flush with the bottom fabric?

Yup, there will be a gap between the Dazian and the Linacoustic that is the thickness of the stretcher bars. I don't understand the last question though.

Edit: Just re-read the last question.... yes, there will be mounting strips for the top frames as well.
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post #27 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 09:51 AM
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One fo the best 'Finds' I have see here in a while. This will really help save time or for people who don't like messing with saws that much.

God job, can't wait to see the finished product.
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post #28 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 10:54 AM
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post #29 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Bingo!!! You got it...

Just to let you know though, the floor will be carpet. I only referenced the floor in my pics as a reference for the color of the wood in the theater.

Thanks again!!!
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post #30 of 114 Old 12-15-2006, 10:28 PM
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Can't wait to see a finished frame and then the finished product. I am wondering if I go this route I might have to also have frames continous from floor to ceiling like you. I had planned on only doing Lineacoustic from floor to 42" up. Hmmmm....

So how are you going to hide the nails. I would assume the frames will be fabric covered and then start nailing them up through the fabric??
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