Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 17 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #481 of 870 Old 08-25-2016, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Incorrect, why? I don't have OSB on my ceiling.
I don't know, I just figured dry wall was flimsy. I guess it's the whole, not too much sheer type principle?

To be clear, in the most minimalist form, it is just essentially two poles, right?
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post #482 of 870 Old 08-27-2016, 06:46 PM
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@BIGmouthinDC I've used this thread as a blueprint of sorts for the very near future remodel of my bonus room/ht. I can't thank you enough for providing your insight to the rest of us diy'ers trying to save a buck and create a room that our family's can enjoy.

I do have a question though. How exactly are you guys framing your AT screens? My plan is to use an AT fabric like white spandex over black/grey spandex. For some reason I haven't found how you or anyone else framed their screen. I know your original 16:9 screen was hung on top of the false wall. Did you friction fit your screen in the CIH setup?

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post #483 of 870 Old 08-27-2016, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
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post #484 of 870 Old 08-27-2016, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
Thanks for the pics, they are extremely helpful. And the mid span support advice is great, I never would've thought about that...at least not until I had finished mounting it and realized after the fact.

When you say you surround the screen with some type of black fabric frames, are you referring to the large fabric frames that make up the entire screen wall or are you talking about a separate frame that specifically surrounds the screen (think black velvet border around a Carada screen).

Sorry for the ignorant questions, just trying to plan things out as efficiently as possible.

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post #485 of 870 Old 08-28-2016, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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paint them black before wrapping in velvet.

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post #486 of 870 Old 08-28-2016, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
What would be your screen frame material of choice if you wanted to build a screen that could be curved for use with an anamorphic lens, then lay flat again for when the lens was not in place for 16:9 content ? Not permanently curved, but curveable. Length of top and bottom rails 12' for a 5x12 curveable 2.4 screen.

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post #487 of 870 Old 08-29-2016, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Get some of the newer remote controlled bending lumber (BendFlex Wood Products) . With the injected nanomachines at the cellular level sending a signal will cause the wood to bend. After the required bend is achieved you send a signal with the remote and the nanos cease operation.
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post #488 of 870 Old 08-29-2016, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
paint them black before wrapping in velvet.

Spoiler!
What is the thickness of those panels/pads?
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post #489 of 870 Old 08-29-2016, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I didn't install them I think about 2 inches. Also they were glued on top of 2 inches of linacoustic.
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post #490 of 870 Old 08-31-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
this picture should only be viewed if you are wearing a bib to protect your shirt from the drool, then consider that there are 8 matching subs along the back wall and you get the idea.

Wait, what...?
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post #491 of 870 Old 09-03-2016, 05:51 PM
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Thanks for the info and tips Big!




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post #492 of 870 Old 09-06-2016, 09:28 AM
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I just finished up my screen wall this weekend and thought I would share my results here as well. Since I don't have a stage to attach the goal posts to I had to figure out how to secure the bottom to the floor so they don't move around. I ended up getting some adjustable feet like they put on the bottom of desks and I put them in the bottom of the posts. I left them loose enough to move them around, attached the top of the posts to a couple of the ceiling joists, then once I got the posts plumb in both directions I tightened up the feet to hold them in place.





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post #493 of 870 Old 09-06-2016, 10:03 AM
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can you show the feet closer up?
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post #494 of 870 Old 09-06-2016, 05:49 PM
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I bought window black rubber weather stripping and cut 4 pieces to fit around the top board against the ceiling. It held it in place. Then I used plastic furniture shims underneath once it was in place to get it tight and secure.
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post #495 of 870 Old 09-06-2016, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
can you show the feet closer up?
This is the best picture of the feet i can get without taking it apart. Also since the mounting holes for the feet went all the way through the bottom plate, used a dremel to cut a small sot in the top of the screw of the feet so that i could use a screw driver inserted from the top to make it easier to adjust the feet.



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post #496 of 870 Old 09-13-2016, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Newt1822 View Post
This is the best picture of the feet i can get without taking it apart. Also since the mounting holes for the feet went all the way through the bottom plate, used a dremel to cut a small sot in the top of the screw of the feet so that i could use a screw driver inserted from the top to make it easier to adjust the feet.
This is an awesome idea! I am going to be building a false wall over a concrete floor with a drop ceiling, I wasn't sure how to attach the bottom without having to do a runner over to the actual front wall. This is a fantastic solution. My first option was to overbuild it massively - this is a much better option.

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post #497 of 870 Old 11-07-2016, 12:36 PM
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Any idea why I can't see any of Big's pics in this thread?
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post #498 of 870 Old 11-07-2016, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I just checked they all show up on my computer. if you are at work your network adm may have blocked them.
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post #499 of 870 Old 11-08-2016, 05:29 AM
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Another tribute to BIG. Without your advice, I would have probably framed out a 2x4 wall with lumber from Home Depot that would twist up like a pretzel.

I need to add another cross brace at the bottom. My screen has clips that attach to the bottom keeping it a consistent distance from the screen wall. They also lock it to the wall so you can't pull the screen down until you unhook the clips.

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post #500 of 870 Old 11-08-2016, 04:34 PM
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Been doing a bit of remodeling in my room. Here's a quick look at my screen wall.





And a quick shot with the screen up before the trim was in place under the screen.




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post #501 of 870 Old 11-09-2016, 03:58 AM
 
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Here is mine
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post #502 of 870 Old 01-08-2017, 07:58 AM
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Here is mine



Hey Brian, how do you like he 1099's? I'm back and forth seems hourly, between those and the HTM's.
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post #503 of 870 Old 01-08-2017, 12:09 PM
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Hey Brian, how do you like he 1099's? I'm back and forth seems hourly, between those and the HTM's.
Are you building them into a baffle wall? If so, either would do. The HTM-12 uses the larger waveguide (which can have some benefits). I have the 1099 (actually watching Fury Road right now). The HTM are supposed to be pretty neutral (the Fusion 15, which they are supposed to be voiced similarly to, have been said to be somewhat laidback, for what that's worth). I tend to prefer a neutral sound and have owned (and still own various accurate speakers). The 1099s, however, have been said to be aggressive. They are dynamic and great for movies. I like them so far, but haven't put them entirely through their paces. I've considered upgrading my sides to the HTM-10 and comparing those with the 1099s, but I have no complaints with the 1099s. Do you have limited depth? The HTM are a no brainer then. Don't think you can go wrong with either set.
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post #504 of 870 Old 01-08-2017, 05:00 PM
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Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall

Appreciate the feedback. Space isn't a huge concern with about 20" behind the screen. I am hearing great things about the HTM's, will likely end there.

Surrounds are a tough one right now. I've had some budget over runs on the build and will like have to go with the less expensive Volts for the time being.

Regarding the baffle wall, no, I'm challenged enough with what many would consider a "standard" build these days. Honestly, I'm not sure if it would add a lot to the build but my brain is on absolute overload at this point. Adding much more to the planning would certainly push me over the edge! I spent 2 hours building four backer boxes today for outlets behind my screen. Sat down with a cold one to ponder the effort then it hit me, why wouldn't I simply pull the cable through a half inch hole and surface mount the outlet.

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post #505 of 870 Old 01-08-2017, 07:27 PM
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Appreciate the feedback. Space isn't a huge concern with about 20" behind the screen. I am hearing great things about the HTM's, will likely end there.

Surrounds are a tough one right now. I've had some budget over runs on the build and will like have to go with the less expensive Volts for the time being.
You can't go wrong with the Volts. I use Volt 6s for all my surrounds.
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post #506 of 870 Old 01-08-2017, 07:30 PM
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Excellent, nothing like first hand feedback.
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post #507 of 870 Old 01-18-2017, 09:16 PM
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Just want to thank everyone in this thread (especially BIG) for the designs. I flat out ripped off Big's design for my screen and it came out great so many, many thanks. I couldn't find finger-jointed pine in my local Home Depot (too lazy to go to the local lumber yard the next town over that probably has it) so I bought 1x4" poplar boards, and glued three of them together with wood glue for each of the side posts. I used poplar because it supposedly doesn't have problems warping. They were very easy to make. For the cross beam, I used a piece of poplar for the front with a douglas fir 2x4 behind it for stability. My wall was mid joist so I used some 2x4s to attach to the joists. I don't have a stage and wanted everything done on top of the carpet in case for some reason the theater ever needed to come down or the wall needed to be moved. I just screwed down through the carpet into the subfloor. Painted everything black with leftover Ben Moore paint from the ceiling. My screen is a Seymour Premier 115" screen with UF. Now I just need to build my fabric panels and my wall is done.





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post #508 of 870 Old 02-15-2017, 11:02 AM
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This is the approach that I'll be taking but am having a hard time envisioning the side panels. Are you folks friction fitting the panels to the goal posts or the screen frame? I'm trying to picture whether the panels extrude out past the screen or the other way around. My guess would be fitting the panels against the screen otherwise the top and bottom panels would have nothing to fit to.

Anyone have a picture from the side running down the length of the screen they'd be willing to post?

The other thought that I had was to extend the panels out from the screen 2 or 3 inches to house a rudimentary masking system made of curtain but my head hurts trying to envision the framing.
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post #509 of 870 Old 02-15-2017, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I have pictures of fitting the panels around the screen sharing the same supports as the screen. I'm out of the country back in my office Monday.

See post 485
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post #510 of 870 Old 02-15-2017, 12:49 PM
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I was debating on posting up my minimalist(ish) wall build since it isn't quite as minimalist as I had intended... but here it is anyway

I have a drop ceiling and a concrete floor - so that complicated the "uprights" or "goalposts" a little bit... I attached them to the overhead joists through the tiles with some downward pressure into the carpet below, but I was worried about them moving on the floor and added some supports back to the wall. They are L shaped because I needed to anchor them into a stud. The screen mount is a frame that is also attached to the joists overhead and stabilized against the front wall with similar supports:


Screen back in place with just the uprights for a test fit:


Test fit of the frames... the top cross piece rests on the wood frame that holds the screen and is cut to fit tightly between that and the ceiling, the bottom cross piece sits on the cabinet that is being kept for storage purposes and has 2 "L" shaped pieces of wood behind it to make sure it doesn't fall over... in the end they had Velcro added to keep them in place.


VERY tight friction fit for all of the panels - I did add blocks on the side walls with Velcro, also Velcro at strategic spots on the uprights for the side panels. The panels all are cut large so they go behind the screen:


The bottom portion is where it became complicated... Made a frame to go around the subwoofers with a "curtain" to hang in front of the cabinet. The curtain has a piece of pex tubing with a steel rod in it to keep it hanging straight while still allowing easy access to the cabinet. I used GOM over the subs to hide them too...



Final product - I'm really happy with how it all turned out!
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