Originally Posted by megametaman
As I was writing my description, I knew it would be incomprehensible. I am trying to add some pictures. I'm mostly just a lurker and don't post a ton on here. I hope they work.
I was laughing as I was taking pictures because of my horrible job putting velvet on the ceiling. I thought, if this is the best I can do, I'm in over my head. But, I want to learn and the only way is to get dirty.
If you can see, the problem is the air ducts run perpendicular to the screen and seating. I have thought about putting in horizontal soffits to hide the weird shape of the ducts, but maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. My place looks like garbage now since it has mostly been storage for the past 12 years or so. I tossed out a LOT of old furniture and random stuff. My goal is to make it rather minimalist. Eventually I want to mount the projector and hide the AV equipment in a rear closet.
At the foot of the screen wall is a black workout mat. That's about 24". I would want a little more space than that to ensure I could get something big back there. I wish the first taper in the air ducts was at around 30-36 inches instead of 42. Again, maybe I should just ignore it.
The reason I want to have the base is to minimize appearance of the air duct. Perhaps I'm getting too crazy with this idea and should just cover the ceiling with dark cloth and make things easier on myself by just sticking to the goal post idea.
One thing for sure, one goal post will be about 9 inches shorter than the other. Not sure how big of a deal that would be. The floor is currently tile on concrete. I eventually want to get rugs down here, but don't think I'll ever do carpet because of past flooding. Hmm, maybe the base idea is a really bad one the more I think about it.
Any suggestions are HIGHLY appreciated. Even if it means doing something more radical. I'm all ears.
For reference, the wall the screen is on has three ridiculous holes cut through them as well as the furnace room behind it to shove 3 bookshelves through the opening. Totally stupid and not even close to ideal.
Ok I understand now what you mean by the taper...
I agree it doesn’t make sense to build the full false/screen wall 42” out from the front real wall just to match the taper’s start. I see two options, one more work than the other, but I’m not a terribly creative person, so there are probably other work arounds haha.
Build the screen wall/minimalist posts at 24” (or wherever you ideally want it) out and either
1. Just cover that partial wall that tapers in black velvet. Build 4 black fabric covered panels to fit around the screen - 1 between the two soffits assuming the frame will sit right up under them, 1 to left, one to right, 1 beneath. This only works if the skinnier portion of that flat wall extends out from the front at least your 24” (if it doesn’t, you may want to consider something like #2
below to extend the narrower portion of the wall to at least 24”). I’d cover the bottom of the soffits (bottoms and sides) and ceiling a couple feet out from the screen into the room, particularly if you screen is going right up under the soffits. Edit: if the narrow part of the wall doesn’t extend 24-30” out and you don’t want to fatten up that stub wall, you could probably get away with adding a third goal post close to that side soffit to catch/hold the end of the side panel and then just add a black curtain on track that closes off that side opening anyways and blocks the view one might get of behind the panels when coming in from what looks like that side entry point. Could build a false ‘column’ that runs floor to ceiling on that side out of 1x stock, wraps it in velvet, and use that to block view behind the screen. I just can’t tell from the pics what that side looks like - is it a narrow passageway? A wide opening to the room?
2. Use a couple 2x4s to extend that tapping wall to make it an even width all the way down from ceiling to floor. Cover in drywall, tape/mud/sand/paint, and cover the inside face with black velvet. Same additional suggestions as above regarding 4 surrounding panels and velvet on ceiling/soffits till a few feet out from the screen.
I’d skip any type of solid base unless there’s no good way to secure the goalposts on your tile floor. You can screw the tops into the ceiling and use the rubber anti skid Matt’s that go under carpets under the posts on the floor. Very important to get your cuts nice and tight for this since you likely don’t want to drill through tile (unless you do, in which case life is simpler and the posts won’t want to move as much once anchored down).
I don’t think having goal posts different lengths is a big deal as long as the screen frame attachment points are the same height off the floor on each post.