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post #661 of 1071 Old 08-17-2018, 04:02 AM
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Nearing the start of my screen wall. My local HD has this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Trim-Boa...7154/202085978

Seems a heck of a lot cheaper then what you have linked Big, will this work? Or is this different?

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post #662 of 1071 Old 08-17-2018, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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You could try to make one with material not even 3/4 inch thick and let us know how you joined the corners and whether the boards were stiff enough to resist bowing when the fabric was attached.
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post #663 of 1071 Old 08-17-2018, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
Nearing the start of my screen wall. My local HD has this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Trim-Boa...7154/202085978

Seems a heck of a lot cheaper then what you have linked Big, will this work? Or is this different?
Is that solid wood or just the MDF stuff though? I was at my local home depot and they didn't seam to carry solid wood (unless it was oak), only MDF
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post #664 of 1071 Old 08-22-2018, 03:13 PM
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what does everyone use for staples on the FR701 frames? I had a standard brad nailer that also takes staples but not overally wide.
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post #665 of 1071 Old 08-22-2018, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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this is the stapler I use, A professional upholstery stapler from Porter Cable.



it holds 22 ga 3/8 inch crown staples. I use the ones 3/8 inch long and place them one staple width apart.
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post #666 of 1071 Old 09-12-2018, 10:29 PM
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Big, thank you so much for starting this thread and giving back even after the photos were taken down. You have inspired me to make an attempt on putting something together. After having read this entire thread from beginning to end, I feel I'm worthy of posting something.

To anyone willing to help:

I have a weird situation where a rather thick air duct runs perpendicular to the seating in my very low basement (81" at tallest, 71.5" under air ducts/soffit). It's also offset to the left. It also tapers as it goes from the screen to the back of the room. There's a soffit that runs parallel to the air ducts. It's offset to the far right. Although it's the same dimensions vertically, it sticks into the room very little (~6")

My plan is to and hide one of the air vent's tapers by making it even with the front of my false wall. However, I don't want the screen that far into my room. The front of the wall would be 42" away from the false wall, but I want the screen to be only 30" away from the current dry wall. 30" will allow me to fit my Rhythmik 15" subs behind there when it's time to upgrade the media room (my main setup). It'll also allow me to fit almost any LCR setup in there and have some breathing room in front and behind.

I could make the screen flat with the false wall, but then there would be a taper just 12" away from almost the center of the top of the screen. I should add, I've been told not to paint the ceiling dark. Walls are not off limits, but no ceiling painting, apparently. I figure it would be kind of cool to have a screen that is inside of a black velvet covered indentation. It should be noted, that the seating area will not even cover full width of the screen and I don't plan for any viewing at wide angles. If seating is added, it would be behind front seats.

There is only 12" beneath the screen with the screen touching the air ducts. My (current) plan is to make three separate pieces.

1. 12"x12"x102" base (with fabric covering it) with four vertical posts intended to hang the 110" AT projector screen on. The two outside posts would serve as added support. I don't think know if will need to have a cross bar. My projector screen hangs off two z-clips (forgive me if my terminology is wrong. I have them going through studs in the current, real wall and don't even use the bottom clips that came with the screen. My thinking is I can make the base heavy enough and then the screen can hang on those same clips attached to vertical posts on the back of the base. If need be, I can add a cross-bar. I'm actually thinking the frame can just sit on the top of the 12"x12" base and just lean back against vertical posts (obviously as upright as possible). Is that stupid? I just checked and it only weighs 32 pounds.

2 & 3. These would be the sides panels. I am thinking of making these the same footprint with fabric-covered panels added to the top all the way up to the ceiling and also going back 12" to the projector screen.

I've never done anything like this, but I will have help from my family and want to try to tackle this. This thread has been super helpful and so has a lot of other threads on this great forum.

Some more questions. Reply to any or none.

Would it make sense to make the 12"x12" base into a bass trap by adding (insulation?) material inside of it?
Would it be better to cover the wood with a plywood or OSB and THEN cover it with light absorbing material?
Is there a better way to go about this?
Should I just ignore the taper and make the entire false wall at 30" from current wall, ignoring this more complicated design and choosing simpler design? Is it stupid to want the screen not flush with the rest of the wall?

I will post pictures if anyone is interested.

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post #667 of 1071 Old 09-13-2018, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by megametaman View Post
Big, thank you so much for starting this thread and giving back even after the photos were taken down. You have inspired me to make an attempt on putting something together. After having read this entire thread from beginning to end, I feel I'm worthy of posting something.

To anyone willing to help:

I have a weird situation where a rather thick air duct runs perpendicular to the seating in my very low basement (81" at tallest, 71.5" under air ducts/soffit). It's also offset to the left. It also tapers as it goes from the screen to the back of the room. There's a soffit that runs parallel to the air ducts. It's offset to the far right. Although it's the same dimensions vertically, it sticks into the room very little (~6")

My plan is to and hide one of the air vent's tapers by making it even with the front of my false wall. However, I don't want the screen that far into my room. The front of the wall would be 42" away from the false wall, but I want the screen to be only 30" away from the current dry wall. 30" will allow me to fit my Rhythmik 15" subs behind there when it's time to upgrade the media room (my main setup). It'll also allow me to fit almost any LCR setup in there and have some breathing room in front and behind.

I could make the screen flat with the false wall, but then there would be a taper just 12" away from almost the center of the top of the screen. I should add, I've been told not to paint the ceiling dark. Walls are not off limits, but no ceiling painting, apparently. I figure it would be kind of cool to have a screen that is inside of a black velvet covered indentation. It should be noted, that the seating area will not even cover full width of the screen and I don't plan for any viewing at wide angles. If seating is added, it would be behind front seats.

There is only 12" beneath the screen with the screen touching the air ducts. My (current) plan is to make three separate pieces.

1. 12"x12"x102" base (with fabric covering it) with four vertical posts intended to hang the 110" AT projector screen on. The two outside posts would serve as added support. I don't think know if will need to have a cross bar. My projector screen hangs off two z-clips (forgive me if my terminology is wrong. I have them going through studs in the current, real wall and don't even use the bottom clips that came with the screen. My thinking is I can make the base heavy enough and then the screen can hang on those same clips attached to vertical posts on the back of the base. If need be, I can add a cross-bar. I'm actually thinking the frame can just sit on the top of the 12"x12" base and just lean back against vertical posts (obviously as upright as possible). Is that stupid? I just checked and it only weighs 32 pounds.

2 & 3. These would be the sides panels. I am thinking of making these the same footprint with fabric-covered panels added to the top all the way up to the ceiling and also going back 12" to the projector screen.

I've never done anything like this, but I will have help from my family and want to try to tackle this. This thread has been super helpful and so has a lot of other threads on this great forum.

Some more questions. Reply to any or none.

Would it make sense to make the 12"x12" base into a bass trap by adding (insulation?) material inside of it?
Would it be better to cover the wood with a plywood or OSB and THEN cover it with light absorbing material?
Is there a better way to go about this?
Should I just ignore the taper and make the entire false wall at 30" from current wall, ignoring this more complicated design and choosing simpler design? Is it stupid to want the screen not flush with the rest of the wall?

I will post pictures if anyone is interested.
Would help me give thoughts if you posted pics. Had a bit of a tough time following the description/thoughts - sounds like two soffits run the length of the room such that your screen would sit under them and perpendicular to them (ie going across the room width). I’m struggling to understand why you need a 12x12x102” ‘base’ below the screen? Why does it need to have any depth to it beyond just being 12x102 flat?

For what it’s worth, my (bigger) screen sits about 18” off the floor and hangs from minimal screen wall posts ala BIG, under a soffit that runs parallel with the screen. I covered it in black velvet and you can’t even tell there’s a soffit there anymore because it’s so dark, even with lights on...
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post #668 of 1071 Old 09-13-2018, 05:04 AM - Thread Starter
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first things first, there is a plug in fix for Firefox and another for chrome, that magically restores photobucket pictures in threads on AVS. It does work:

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...rc=recommended
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post #669 of 1071 Old 09-13-2018, 05:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Mega, I tried reading your post and it must be the fact I have just started on my coffee but I'm having a hard time following your description of the project. Pictures might help, of not only your room but sketches of what you are proposing to do. I can tell you that a 12x12 inch box won't function as a bass absorber of an significance but you should always fill cavities in theater construction to avoid resonances.
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post #670 of 1071 Old 09-13-2018, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rukus29 View Post
Would help me give thoughts if you posted pics. Had a bit of a tough time following the description/thoughts - sounds like two soffits run the length of the room such that your screen would sit under them and perpendicular to them (ie going across the room width). I’m struggling to understand why you need a 12x12x102” ‘base’ below the screen? Why does it need to have any depth to it beyond just being 12x102 flat?

For what it’s worth, my (bigger) screen sits about 18” off the floor and hangs from minimal screen wall posts ala BIG, under a soffit that runs parallel with the screen. I covered it in black velvet and you can’t even tell there’s a soffit there anymore because it’s so dark, even with lights on...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Mega, I tried reading your post and it must be the fact I have just started on my coffee but I'm having a hard time following your description of the project. Pictures might help, of not only your room but sketches of what you are proposing to do. I can tell you that a 12x12 inch box won't function as a bass absorber of an significance but you should always fill cavities in theater construction to avoid resonances.





As I was writing my description, I knew it would be incomprehensible. I am trying to add some pictures. I'm mostly just a lurker and don't post a ton on here. I hope they work.
I was laughing as I was taking pictures because of my horrible job putting velvet on the ceiling. I thought, if this is the best I can do, I'm in over my head. But, I want to learn and the only way is to get dirty.

If you can see, the problem is the air ducts run perpendicular to the screen and seating. I have thought about putting in horizontal soffits to hide the weird shape of the ducts, but maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. My place looks like garbage now since it has mostly been storage for the past 12 years or so. I tossed out a LOT of old furniture and random stuff. My goal is to make it rather minimalist. Eventually I want to mount the projector and hide the AV equipment in a rear closet.

At the foot of the screen wall is a black workout mat. That's about 24". I would want a little more space than that to ensure I could get something big back there. I wish the first taper in the air ducts was at around 30-36 inches instead of 42. Again, maybe I should just ignore it.

The reason I want to have the base is to minimize appearance of the air duct. Perhaps I'm getting too crazy with this idea and should just cover the ceiling with dark cloth and make things easier on myself by just sticking to the goal post idea.

One thing for sure, one goal post will be about 9 inches shorter than the other. Not sure how big of a deal that would be. The floor is currently tile on concrete. I eventually want to get rugs down here, but don't think I'll ever do carpet because of past flooding. Hmm, maybe the base idea is a really bad one the more I think about it.

Any suggestions are HIGHLY appreciated. Even if it means doing something more radical. I'm all ears.

For reference, the wall the screen is on has three ridiculous holes cut through them as well as the furnace room behind it to shove 3 bookshelves through the opening. Totally stupid and not even close to ideal.
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post #671 of 1071 Old 09-15-2018, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megametaman View Post
As I was writing my description, I knew it would be incomprehensible. I am trying to add some pictures. I'm mostly just a lurker and don't post a ton on here. I hope they work.
I was laughing as I was taking pictures because of my horrible job putting velvet on the ceiling. I thought, if this is the best I can do, I'm in over my head. But, I want to learn and the only way is to get dirty.

If you can see, the problem is the air ducts run perpendicular to the screen and seating. I have thought about putting in horizontal soffits to hide the weird shape of the ducts, but maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. My place looks like garbage now since it has mostly been storage for the past 12 years or so. I tossed out a LOT of old furniture and random stuff. My goal is to make it rather minimalist. Eventually I want to mount the projector and hide the AV equipment in a rear closet.

At the foot of the screen wall is a black workout mat. That's about 24". I would want a little more space than that to ensure I could get something big back there. I wish the first taper in the air ducts was at around 30-36 inches instead of 42. Again, maybe I should just ignore it.

The reason I want to have the base is to minimize appearance of the air duct. Perhaps I'm getting too crazy with this idea and should just cover the ceiling with dark cloth and make things easier on myself by just sticking to the goal post idea.

One thing for sure, one goal post will be about 9 inches shorter than the other. Not sure how big of a deal that would be. The floor is currently tile on concrete. I eventually want to get rugs down here, but don't think I'll ever do carpet because of past flooding. Hmm, maybe the base idea is a really bad one the more I think about it.

Any suggestions are HIGHLY appreciated. Even if it means doing something more radical. I'm all ears.

For reference, the wall the screen is on has three ridiculous holes cut through them as well as the furnace room behind it to shove 3 bookshelves through the opening. Totally stupid and not even close to ideal.
Ok I understand now what you mean by the taper...

I agree it doesn’t make sense to build the full false/screen wall 42” out from the front real wall just to match the taper’s start. I see two options, one more work than the other, but I’m not a terribly creative person, so there are probably other work arounds haha.

Build the screen wall/minimalist posts at 24” (or wherever you ideally want it) out and either
1. Just cover that partial wall that tapers in black velvet. Build 4 black fabric covered panels to fit around the screen - 1 between the two soffits assuming the frame will sit right up under them, 1 to left, one to right, 1 beneath. This only works if the skinnier portion of that flat wall extends out from the front at least your 24” (if it doesn’t, you may want to consider something like #2 below to extend the narrower portion of the wall to at least 24”). I’d cover the bottom of the soffits (bottoms and sides) and ceiling a couple feet out from the screen into the room, particularly if you screen is going right up under the soffits. Edit: if the narrow part of the wall doesn’t extend 24-30” out and you don’t want to fatten up that stub wall, you could probably get away with adding a third goal post close to that side soffit to catch/hold the end of the side panel and then just add a black curtain on track that closes off that side opening anyways and blocks the view one might get of behind the panels when coming in from what looks like that side entry point. Could build a false ‘column’ that runs floor to ceiling on that side out of 1x stock, wraps it in velvet, and use that to block view behind the screen. I just can’t tell from the pics what that side looks like - is it a narrow passageway? A wide opening to the room?
2. Use a couple 2x4s to extend that tapping wall to make it an even width all the way down from ceiling to floor. Cover in drywall, tape/mud/sand/paint, and cover the inside face with black velvet. Same additional suggestions as above regarding 4 surrounding panels and velvet on ceiling/soffits till a few feet out from the screen.

I’d skip any type of solid base unless there’s no good way to secure the goalposts on your tile floor. You can screw the tops into the ceiling and use the rubber anti skid Matt’s that go under carpets under the posts on the floor. Very important to get your cuts nice and tight for this since you likely don’t want to drill through tile (unless you do, in which case life is simpler and the posts won’t want to move as much once anchored down).

I don’t think having goal posts different lengths is a big deal as long as the screen frame attachment points are the same height off the floor on each post.

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post #672 of 1071 Old 09-15-2018, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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the only way to hide that elephant in the room is the paint the ceiling and the soffit black (Magicians trick). Paint the walls at a point equal to the lowest part of the soffit black from there up. remove that light tucked behind the soffit as it just draws attention to the elephant. run a perimeter of something at eye height and below around the entire room that draws your eyes away from the ceiling. Maybe at strip of indirect lighting at 5 1/2 ft.



Here was a basement with a similar issue.






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post #673 of 1071 Old 09-18-2018, 02:30 PM
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Does anyone have suggestions on attaching the framing for a screen wall to drywall on the ceiling without hitting a stud? Should I use drywall anchors or is just long enough screws through one single layer of 5/8" drywall good enough?

thanks
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post #674 of 1071 Old 09-18-2018, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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if it is framing sitting on the floor, all the weight is supported by the floor, you just need screws into the drywall up top to keep it from leaning forward. Unless parties at your house involve dancers hanging off the walls. In that case, send me an invite
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post #675 of 1071 Old 09-18-2018, 02:50 PM
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if it is framing sitting on the floor, all the weight is supported by the floor, you just need screws into the drywall up top to keep it from leaning forward. Unless parties at your house involve dancers hanging off the walls. In that case, send me an invite
They don't hang off the walls, normally poles!

thanks Big!
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post #676 of 1071 Old 09-18-2018, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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that will require more than screws into the drywall



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post #677 of 1071 Old 09-24-2018, 01:53 PM
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Bear with me here as I'm sure this question is a little ridiculous, but here goes. Has anyone used the minimalist screen wall to mount a large tv and still utilize large speakers/subs? I'm in a position where I need to come up with multiple options for review by 'the queen'. I have DIY sound group 1299's for LCR so the center would have to lay on the floor and point upwards in this particular scenario. Seem like a bad idea overall or doable even with its built in compromises?
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post #678 of 1071 Old 09-24-2018, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I may be missing something, if you are just trying to mount the TV forward from the wall wouldn't a telescoping wall mount work?



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post #679 of 1071 Old 09-24-2018, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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if you are talking about building a much larger surface to hide the speakers behind fabric, there are a lot of pictures of people building fake fireplaces to hide a TV you just have to modify the idea to fit your needs,


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post #680 of 1071 Old 09-24-2018, 05:22 PM
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if you are talking about building a much larger surface to hide the speakers behind fabric, there are a lot of pictures of people building fake fireplaces to hide a TV you just have to modify the idea to fit your needs,


This example you've given is closer to my "modified minimalist" idea. But I'm thinking the faux fireplace wall idea is a no go for my space due to a 4ft sloped knee wall, not to mention it isn't quite the aesthetics I was looking for. I believe your minimalist screen panels are much more elegant looking for my purpose. Also, my diysg 1299 speakers are 49"x15"x15" along with 4-6 18" diy subs so I need more space (especially width) than the faux fireplace would provide. I just figured I'd check in with the guru to see if my idea was severely flawed or worth a shot.

I'm thinking a more narrow goal post in the middle to secure a tv mount, and wider equidistant posts on either side to help secure the fabric panels? My biggest compromise being the center speaker, as I'll need to rebuild it into a horizontal design and placed under the tv. Thanks for the advice
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post #681 of 1071 Old 09-24-2018, 05:26 PM
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After re-reading your last post I think we're saying the same thing ....I just made it sound much more difficult I'll give it some thought and see what I can come up with, thanks again Big
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post #682 of 1071 Old 09-28-2018, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
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Does anyone have suggestions on attaching the framing for a screen wall to drywall on the ceiling without hitting a stud? Should I use drywall anchors or is just long enough screws through one single layer of 5/8" drywall good enough?

thanks
I used Big's design for the screen wall. I just put 2 screws in the top plates through the drywall, both screws at different extreme angles, which probably doesn't make a difference but it seemed like a good idea. I also used strips of black weather strip foam on the top plate in between the ceiling. I actually just took down my home theater to prepare to sell my house. I was pleasantly surprised to find the screen wall pillars didn't leave any damage except the two small screw holes.

Thanks again for the idea Big! I'll probably use the same design in my next house, but I'm highly considering a baffle wall next time, as opposed to my Goldenear Triton 7 floorstanders...but that's a topic for another thread.

Last edited by Patriot666; 09-29-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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post #683 of 1071 Old 11-26-2018, 05:16 AM
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Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall

I had a go at a minimalist screen wall over the weekend .

In my case, I have a sound isolated ceiling and carpet on the ground, so I didn’t want to go driving screws into either of those surfaces. Instead, I went side to side with some vertical supports in the middle and a small frame on the floor anchored in place by my center channel.

I think the pics are self explanatory, though I should note that the Houston area Home Depot and Lowes do not carry the 5/4 wood, so I just picked through and found some very straight 3/4” wood. I figure the support system will keep things locked in place well enough.

The room is 12’ wide and the screen is 10’ wide.






We used z clips from Home Depot to mount the home made screen. Of course everything was painted black first. Now I just need to get some black fabric to go behind the white acoustically transparent screen. Didn’t have any available at hobby lobby over the weekend

For the surround panels, I’ll put up a similar blocking in the top right and left corners as well as the bottom right and left corners so the surround panels have something to rest against. That’s a project for another day though

Hope this might help someone!

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post #684 of 1071 Old 12-12-2018, 06:59 PM
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Thanks Big for the pics and guide! I just built mine (need to upload pics once I’m on my desktop). If my goal posts are....really tight against the floor and ceiling, still recommend screwing into ceiling for extra stability?
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post #685 of 1071 Old 12-12-2018, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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If you are confident they will stay tight over time then maybe you can skip the screws. If you used wood keep in mind that wood is not a dimensionally stable material.
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post #686 of 1071 Old 12-12-2018, 10:33 PM
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If you placed a compressible material like a thick rubber pad between goal posts and floor/ceiling that could expand and contract just a bit to offset the expansion and contraction of wood and thus maintain compression you'd be fine.

There's probably enough elasticity in the wood itself as well as ceiling structure to allow for some dimensional shift without it, but I'd use screws if it were me and I didn't put rubber or similar in there.
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post #687 of 1071 Old 12-13-2018, 04:21 AM
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Thanks guys. It’s against carpet + pad on the bottom (room was carpeted before I started).

Is it possible it can be too tight? Did have to use a rubber mallet to wedge it in (though I can still forcefully move it if I need to).

I will probably screw it in once I get final position of the screen.

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post #688 of 1071 Old 12-13-2018, 06:08 AM
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The carpet and pad are compressible but not good as a long term elastic spacer. Meaning the compression will over time become permanent and lose the "spring" pushback on the false wall. Hopefully you compressed it enough at installation to remove most of that concern.

The only way it can be too tight is if you damage the ceiling above in a way you didn't intend to. Without screws, you'd actually want it to be tight enough that it uplifts the ceiling structure just a hair, as that will serve as the spring to adjust for any wood dimensional change.
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post #689 of 1071 Old 12-14-2018, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
If you are confident they will stay tight over time then maybe you can skip the screws. If you used wood keep in mind that wood is not a dimensionally stable material.
@BIGmouthinDC

Big, what method, in you experience, works best to attach fabric frames to the screen wall frame? I bought the Hangman Mirror and Picture Hanger clips from Home depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hangman-...T-12/205948431

I am assuming that these will work fine or should I get the Z clips from amazon?
Also wondering if there will be any issues with lower border vibrating due to bass. Have you ever had any issue?

Thanks!

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Living Room - LG OLED 65" | Denon X4400H | Monolith 3x200 | KEF Q900 L/R | Paradigm Millenia 20 CC | Polk Surrounds | Rythmik FV15HP x2

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post #690 of 1071 Old 12-14-2018, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sambow87 View Post
Thanks Big for the pics and guide! I just built mine (need to upload pics once I’m on my desktop). If my goal posts are....really tight against the floor and ceiling, still recommend screwing into ceiling for extra stability?
110% YES. Ask me how I know. A bent screen frame and a hole in the wall later....
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