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post #31 of 567 Old 09-20-2007, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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It's been a while, but time for an update.

Drywall mudding/taping is a pain. Getting mud mixed up and cleaning up after take about 30 minutes or so. That means I can't just run up there for 45 minutes and work a bit on the room. To make it worthwhile, I have to allocate 2-3 hours of time. That limits me to one or two sessions per week on weekends, if I'm lucky.

I've found that I can do drywall mudding/taping pretty well. My inside corners aren't necessarily the prettiest, but they'll do.

However, final floating, making everything even and smooth without a lot of sanding, is not my forte. After several attempts, I've decided that's a good job for a professional.

Here is the room with all the walls closed (the right front was the last bit):



Here is my room with all the wall drywall mudded/taped:









I've since put up most of the double drywall/green glue. I'm using two tubes/sheet and it's going up pretty easily. Most of the time is spent identifying where the studs are, especially where I'm putting a second layer of drywall over old work drywall where I can't see the screw holes.

My current solution for finding the studs:
a) stud finder to get the general location
b) sinking 3-4 drywall screws through the old drywall into the stud at the top and bottom of where I think the stud is. Some of them will hit air on each side of the stud. With that I've got definite proof of where the stud is.

Then mark the left/right side on the ceiling and the floor. Accuracy is especially important for the seams between two sheets of drywall. If the seams are of just a bit, one sheet will be over the stud and the next will be just on the edge. Getting a screw to bite on that sheet will be difficult.

Make sure to mark both the top and bottom. DON'T assume that all the studs are straight. Some of mine turned out to lean left or right by an inch or more...

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post #32 of 567 Old 09-20-2007, 11:12 AM
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Nice work. Are those huge insects on the french door?

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post #33 of 567 Old 09-20-2007, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I've got the huge Texas cockroaches trained to crawl in formation...

Actually, I stapled up a piece of blue cotton insulation over the glass doors back when I was doing LOUD construction (nail gun and miter saw) at night when the kids were sleeping. It was a very basic attempt to keep the sound in. I ripped it off a few weeks back and left little bits of blue cotton where the staples (still) are.

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post #34 of 567 Old 09-20-2007, 07:10 PM
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Paul

Looks like the screen wall is going to work out real well I need to get cracking on mine I really want to get my SMX up

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post #35 of 567 Old 09-21-2007, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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My SMX is still rolled up sitting in a box in my bedroom closet.

By the way, does anybody know if there is a disadvantage to a normal solid wood (pine) door over a safe and sound Masonite door? Home Depot and Lowes both stock them, and everything I read indicates they will be comparable weight/sound deadening to the S&S.

Dimensional stability shouldn't be too big a deal (it's a normal stile/rail 6 panel wood door).

Same price, and saves me two weeks waiting for the S&S door.

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post #36 of 567 Old 11-11-2007, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm officially in 'slow' mode, but I'm starting to pick up speed again. When I compare the progress I made during framing and initial drywall to my progress in the last few months, I've slowed WAY down.

Current status:

- Double drywall up on all walls except right around the door
(waiting for the doors to go up)
- 2 safe&sound doors ready to install sitting in the garage
- bought a drywall lift! I'm going to pull out all the lights in
the ceiling and double drywall the ceiling and the soffits/light shelf.
Just finished caulking all the ceiling joints.

Right now, I'm researching my lighting control solution. I want to put a big conduit down to where the light switch will go so I can install whatever I want to later.

Next steps:
- remove lights
- install back ceiling bass trap
- add conduit or something to the light switch location

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post #37 of 567 Old 02-06-2008, 08:53 PM
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Paul

Whats the latest work being done in the HT? any updated pics to share

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post #38 of 567 Old 02-07-2008, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, there has been some progress recently. I've mostly been stalled by life and by lighting choices. I'll try to update today.

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post #39 of 567 Old 02-07-2008, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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All right, time to bring things up to date. It won't take too long, even though it's been three months.

Essentially what happened: When I finished the double drywall on the walls, I had to decide whether or not I wanted to double drywall the ceiling. Remember, I've got a complex existing ceiling with a soffit and light shelf. It's lots of fiddly drywall work to do it right.

Finally I decided to bite the bullet and do it right. I bought a drywall lift and a bunch of drywall for the ceiling. So far so good.

Unfortunately, double-drywalling the ceiling finally forced the issue of lighting that I had been procrastinating. Did I want cans with light boxes (cans without light boxes would defeat the purpose of double drywalling the ceiling). Could I get away with sconces and no ceiling light? Would I regret it later? Yada yada yada. Of course, this was an aesthetic decision with no way to gather hard data, so I stalled.

While I was stalled, I went ahead and built my bass trap over the entryway. It's shape is dictated by the available space in the attic above, after ripping out a bunch of unnecessary framing:



Then I made incremental progress, finding things I could do that didn't require a final decision on cans/sconces. I ripped out the light switches by the door (I'll have a grafik-eye eventually). I ripped out all the old cans and patched their holes in the drywall.

Then, finally, in mid-January I got fed up with myself and decided that if I didn't do cans in light boxed, I might regret it later. If I spent the work on the light boxes, it might be wasted, but I wouldn't regret it.

So away we go. I've built four of the five light boxes and am ready to install them. (The fifth one goes way back in the attic where I need to crawl in. I want to make sure the first four work before I crawl in and measure for the fifth).

The boxes are pretty big: 14″ x 10″ x 10″. They are made following the general ideas from here:
How to build a soundproof fireproof light box
. They are basically boxes made out of 3/4″ MDF, glued and finish nailed together, with a 6″ hole in the bottom and a 5/8″ hole for the flex-conduit/wire to come out the side. The insides (except the bottom where the light hole will be) are lined with hardiplank/green-glue. This will give more heat resistance than straight MDF. The green-glue will (hopefully) give a bit less sound transmission. Mostly, the green-glue can't hurt.

The boxes are sized to fit exactly between the studs on top of the existing drywall. I plan to drill a pilot hole from below to mark the spot where I want the boxes to be. I'll place the boxes from above over those holes. I'll attach the boxes by screwing through the studs from the sides (so I can remove the boxes later if I ever want to modify them), then caulk all around.

The flex-conduit from each lamp exits the box through a small hole in the side (not shown in the pictures) and goes to a metal junction box on the outside. That'll make wiring up easy. If I kept the junction boxes inside the light-box I would have code problems (not allowed to bury' a j-box).

I bought 6 cans for $30 at HD, but ended up not using them. Instead, I stripped down the original cans I removed from the ceiling. Those were higher build quality and seemed less likely to rattle. If anybody wants 6 cheap IC can lights, let me know.

I'm hoping to get some installed soon, but time is tight these days

Here are the light boxes (I've since green-glued/caulked them and added the can and the junction box. They are a lot less pretty now...)




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post #40 of 567 Old 02-07-2008, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Other progress: I've pretty much finalized my lighting plans.

I'm going to get a Grafik Eye QS 6 zone controller. Likely zones:

- cans
- light-shelf rope light
- riser stair light
- spot on wife's chair (for knitting)
- spot on equipment in back

(I'm getting the QS over the GE 3106 primarily for the IR port on the back. Still waiting to see if the IR port is usable without a $150 Lutron accessory)

The GE will be in the wall in the front left of the room, in a pretty useless spot (not by the door). I'm putting it there because I have really easy walk-in access to the attic behind that wall. That will make it a really good place for adding/rewiring my lighting over time as needed.

By the door, I'll have a wall control to the right of the entrance. I've got ~200 ft of Lutron-GRN 600V rated low voltage wire on it's way to connect up the entrance controller to the main controller.

I'll mount two metal 4-gang boxes in the left front, one facing into the HT with the GE mounted on it, one above it, facing out into the walk-in attic space. The two boxes will be connected with four short stubs of metal conduit. I'll run short runs for all the six zones from the GE box to the second box. I'll bring all my loads to the second box and connect up there. All the HV stuff will be done with romex.

(The main driving force behind the dual box, front of room approach is ease of installation and ease of change as I rearrange lighting over time.)

I plan to have my main IR receiver in the front of the theater by the screen feeding one or more IR transmitters in the back right for my equipment. That will drive my lighting controller as well.

I've already ordered the gang boxes and the Lutron-GRN. I've got to make a color decision before buying the QS and the entrance controller. I may wire all the lights over to the box and install a switch for now, and run the Lutron-GRN over to a box by the door. That way I can buy the QS and the entrance controller after I've picked and bought my GOM.

===============

So, that brings things up to date. Hopefully I'll have more rapid progress to report going forward.

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post #41 of 567 Old 02-26-2008, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I had a busy president's day weekend. My wife and kids were out of town Friday and Saturday, and I took Friday off.

I installed the four light boxes I had already built, crawling around in the attic. I also built and installed the fifth one from below (hard to access the attic from there. I then wired them all up to a switch in the attic near where I'll eventually have my light controller.



I then installed all of the second layer of drywall (with green glue) on the high ceiling. Here is the drywall lift and the first piece going up:







Here is the finished 10' ceiling with all the light holes and vent holes cut:







Since then, I've installed the second layer of drywall/gg on the side of the soffits. Bottom of the soffits is next, followed by the light shelf.

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post #42 of 567 Old 03-09-2008, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Making slow but steady progress on completing the second layer of drywall. I've completed the front face of the soffit all around the room, and I'm halfway through the bottom of the soffit.

I just ordered another three cases of green glue. I had originally planned to do a double floor/green-glue, but not the ceiling. Since I changed my mind about doing the ceiling, I'm using the floor green glue on the ceiling and I'm running out (7 tubes left...).

I will be SOOOOO happy when I get the last piece of drywall up. Next time, I'll get somebody else to do the drywall. My biggest problems:
1) finding/marking studs through the existing drywall in the complex ceiling
2) cutting complex pieces of drywall for the funny ceiling...

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post #43 of 567 Old 03-23-2008, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall is DONE!

I believe I have cut my last piece of drywall for this project. Every surface/nook/cranny of the room is now double drywalled and green glued. I even did the inside of the bass trap over the door. Pictures tomorrow, my wife has the CF card reader.

My wife and kids have been out of town since Thursday. I took Thursday/Friday off, and I've done nothing but eat, sleep, and do drywall since then.

I'm so sick of drywall.

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post #44 of 567 Old 03-24-2008, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Major drywall operations have completed!



I now have double drywall on every surface/nook/cranny of the room. I worked for four solid days (Jenn and the kids out of town). Nothing really that thrilling to talk about, just lots and lots of:
  • Climbing the ladder and measuring part the ceiling/wall/whatever
  • Cutting little (or big) pieces of drywall to exactly the right shape
  • Climbing the ladder and seeing if the piece fits
  • Grinding down the edges until it does
  • Putting green glue on the back of the piece
  • Climbing the ladder with the piece, screws, and the drill
  • Holding the piece in place with one hand, positioning it, and screwing it in

Repeat 400 times.

Two interesting parts:
1) The 'floor' of the light shelf (the horizontal surface of the light shelf, behind the lip). There was no way I could get in here with a drill to screw in the drywall screws. Instead, I used drywall glue. Each piece of drywall got a blob of drywall glue at each end and green glue over the rest of it. I laid them in and wedged them down with scraps of drywall (you can see some of the scraps in the light shelf pictures just below)

2) The 'inside' of the light shelf. In the back of the room where I redid the light shelf from scratch, it's completely sealed off. The front lip of the light shelf is two 2x4's running sideways. The inside of the light shelf is insulated. No problem. However, in the front of the room, the light shelf is hollow. With the shelf off, you can sort of see inside:





That opening you see goes right through the shelf into the attic. There will eventually be a piece of pine shelving on top of that opening, but it's still a path for sound to get out. My solution: stuff the inside of the shelf with pink insulation, and then use a double piece of drywall to seal it off. I cut a bunch of little pieces of wood and glued them down inside the shelf opening. I then cut two pieces of drywall to fit between each of the studs you can see in the picture above. I green glued the two pieces together, and used drywall glue to stick the assembly to the supports I had dropped in. Hard to explain, but the effect is that the lip of the light shelf is now sealed off by a drywall sandwich a couple of inches below the opening. No more air path.

Now for the rest of the pictures:




The left and right sides of the angled ceiling piece here were the biggest pain, especially the left side one facing the screen. The drywall lift wasn't much help. Holding the pieces up there while getting them screwed in was difficult. This is one step it would have been nice to have an assistant for, but I got there:



I put the second layer of drywall on the ceiling of the equipment nook (this corner will be framed off eventually, once I figure out how big my equipment racks will be).



I drywalled around the little door to the hot water heater:



I double drywalled the walls around the entrance:



I even double drywalled the inside of my bass trap over the door:



Major milestone! Now I have to figure out what to do next...

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post #45 of 567 Old 03-24-2008, 01:21 PM
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You have been busy. Looks great. That will be a great ceiling design when lit.
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post #46 of 567 Old 03-24-2008, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I need to put rope light on my list. I'd would be easy to install and motivating to see it lit up.

I just talked to a mudding/taping/texturing sub-contractor that was recommended by somebody at work. He'll be out Wednesday to see what needs to be done and give me an estimate. It will be SOOO COOOOL to actually have a drywalled/textured room. It'll feel almost done!

I'm getting psyched again.

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post #47 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 11:39 AM
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My first post and going to use it on a fellow Austinite. The room is looking sick, can't wait to see the end result.

Jason
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post #48 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully it will look a bit better real soon now. Drywall finisher comes tonight for a look-see and quote. Hopefully he'll do the work next week. When it's taped/floated/textured, it will start to feel like a real room.

I just bought a bunch of bullnose corner beading. I spent the last two nights caulking a bunch of the seams at the corners. I figured that the normal factory joints and butt joints will be well sealed by tape/mud, but somehow I wanted to get some caulk in there behind the corner beading. Now that I think about it, it's not clear why I cared...

Whats left?
  • double floor
  • stage
  • riser
  • equipment racks
  • paint
  • screen
  • screen wall panels
  • projector
  • acoustic treatment on side/back

I think I'll end up watching movies before I put up the side/back treatments. I don't mind putting the treatments in after.

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post #49 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post


I think I'll end up watching movies before I put up the side/back treatments. I don't mind putting the treatments in after.

Don't do it! You'll never finish then.

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post #50 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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The problem is I would like to hear the improvements from my treatments. Or more importantly, let my wife hear the improvements so she knows I'm not insane (or at least not for this).

I'd love to watch a movie or two with nothing, measure the room, and then measure again after treatments. I suppose I could just put the audio in once it isn't dusty anymore...

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post #51 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 03:37 PM
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Yep. Just do the audio for now. That's how I plan on finishing my space. Then only when I'm 99.9% done will I hang the projector.

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post #52 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I had the drywall finisher out today. He was very nice. He complemented me on my drywall: "You did all this yourself? You did a good job." No clue if he was really laughing in his sleeve the whole time. He was nice. I know two other people who have had good results with him.

He'll give me a quote tomorrow and will be available next week. He's got me nervous on the $$. As he was walking around the room, he shook his head and said "this isn't going to be cheap. That ceiling is intricate".

That is one of those completely useless comments that just goes to make me nervous. I have no idea of what he thinks of as 'cheap'.

No biggie. If the quote is out of line with the upper end of what I'm expecting I'll get another quote to sanity check. The room is about 1200 sq ft of wall/ceiling. At $.25-.35/sq ft (standard rate), that's $400. I know this room isn't standard. I'll be quite happy doubling that for all the fancy ceiling, so $800-1000 won't bug me much. (If he's reading this, I'm going to have a tough time negotiating...). I've got some patch work in another room in there as well, but that is pretty small.

I hate waiting for quotes, can you tell?

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post #53 of 567 Old 03-27-2008, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Yep. Just do the audio for now. That's how I plan on finishing my space. Then only when I'm 99.9% done will I hang the projector.

I don't know if I'll have the will power. We'll see. The difference with me is that there are times when I can work on the theater that I can't really watch movies. The kids (5 & 7) don't watch movies much (Ratatouille and Horton are both too scary), so I can only watch in the late evenings, mostly on weekends. Having a projector won't interfere with my main work time.

At least that's how I'll rationalize it.

One thing that could help me delay the projector is if "the next big thing" (RS3, some new Sony, whatever) is actually going to be available in the late summer or fall. I'm not betting on it, though.

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post #54 of 567 Old 04-01-2008, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The drywall finisher came today. No pictures, just look at the above with some of the simple seams done and some of the screws covered.

He spent the day prepping and doing most of the taping including the back of the light shelf. After reaching in there to do some simple taping, he asked me if I had drywalled it all before the light shelf went up. When I said 'no', he seemed pretty impressed. He was hurting after a few hours of taping the darn thing.

One thing I found interesting: he's using normal mud (slow drying). Somehow I expected him to be using the fast drying stuff so that multiple layers could go on quicker. Since taping/screw covering looks like it's going to take two days, I suppose it doesn't matter. Maybe that only matters during the floating, a small room, or if you've got a bunch of finishers.

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post #55 of 567 Old 04-07-2008, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to fit at least one, and likely eventually two, equipment racks back into this corner:



The current plan:

* continue the current left wall straight, covering this hole.
* contine the wall by the door to the right. Essentially square off this hole.
* the tall space next to the door to the right will be a bass trap.
* fit two 19" racks, ~4' high at the front, against the left wall of this space.
* Next to that will be a 20" x 5' panel that can be removed. use that to access more space in the back corner. That's where I'll put an HTPC or a small rack or two with equipment that doesn't need access often.

Because I won't have easy rear access, it would be nice if the racks could pull out and rotate. I've picked up some 500 lb rated Accuride drawer slides (big!) and a 1000 lb rated lazy susan. I also picked up 4 Middle Atlantic rack rails to use as the corner posts. Heres a sketch of the current plan:



The outer 2 pieces of wood on the base are attached to the floor. The accuride slides attach to the insides of those. Between them is a wooden sled (2x3's and reinforced plywood). On top of that goes the lazy susan and the rack. The rack depth is 22". The whole thing will slide out 28" and rotate 90.

Here are pictures of the current progress. I'm waiting for some blank cover plates for the front of the rack before I build the rest. I'm going to use them to set the spacing of the rails.








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post #56 of 567 Old 04-09-2008, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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My drywall finish guy, Joe, has got it almost done mudding and taping. He's got some wet sanding to do on the bullnose, then texture. The texturing should be done today and it will look like a room!

Here is the HT mudded and taped:








Just talked to my wife: Joe has finished texturing! More pictures tonight or tomorrow.

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post #57 of 567 Old 04-09-2008, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick pic with texturing done:


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post #58 of 567 Old 04-09-2008, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Now, of course, I want to PAINT! Which forces me to finally pick a color scheme. I've been waffling between blue-gray and dark-red/gray (GPowers colors).

The current winner (wife breaking the tie) is dark-red/gray. I have GOM 701 Burgundy and Claret Accent (as well as black) samples on the way. Also two Anchorage colors (Poppy and something else darkish red). Really hard to tell what they look like from the website.

Anybody have good suggestions for a dark red GOM cloth to look at? I've looked at 701 and Anchorage, but there are a million others. Are they all fine over acoustic treatments?

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post #59 of 567 Old 04-10-2008, 12:06 AM
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Paul, have you had a look at the Dazian line? I've combined GOM and Dazian in my build. There are lots of good options there.

-Ryan
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post #60 of 567 Old 04-10-2008, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Nope, I'll go look. Thanks for the pointer. I'd heard about it for AT screens (celtic cloth, I think), but hadn't thought about it for walls.

Paul

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