What, exactly, is smurf tube? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 43 Old 11-23-2010, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Yeah, the 1" conduit is easy to install.

Do any inspectors/AHJs have issues with the blue flex conduit for low voltage, since, I believe, it's rated for line voltage?

It's perfectly legal to "downgrade" materials like that. I do know of one restriction however. You can't use fire alarm cable for anything but fire alarms - go figure!
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post #32 of 43 Old 11-23-2010, 03:20 PM
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The ridges inside the flex conduit reduce the contact area with the cables, making the cables easier to pull.

Some rigid conduit has ridging on the inside, for the same reason.

That another benefit of the flex, compared with the gray rigid NMT/PVC.

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post #33 of 43 Old 07-30-2012, 11:55 PM
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This is a thread that just keeps on giving (look at the dates)

Anyhow, I like the idea of using orange for all the LV, but the orange is hard to find and expensive. I plan to use 3/4" for my speaker cable runs, one 3/4" conduit for 2-3 speakers back to the equipment closet. Anyhow, to get 100' orange online can be $50+ To buy the blue stuff at the local home improvement is $30-$35. So I'll stick with the blue when I can.

For my projector - 2" orange, I'll get it online. For my screen wall 1.5" orange also online. But most of my 3/4" runs will be in blue, just to save $$$

But who knows, if I find the blue cheaper, I'll do that. For me color coding would be cool and all, but money is money rolleyes.gif

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post #34 of 43 Old 07-31-2012, 12:08 PM
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If you are using orange conduit it would no longer be Smurf tube. Since the orange tube is more expensive you could call it "Annoying Orange" Tube. smile.gif
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post #35 of 43 Old 07-31-2012, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

If you are using orange conduit it would no longer be Smurf tube. Since the orange tube is more expensive you could call it "Annoying Orange" Tube. smile.gif

Unless you catch a warehouse foreclosure and get 200ft of 2" and 1" Kwikpath riser raceway for free! Orange not so annoying now.

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post #36 of 43 Old 11-26-2019, 06:28 PM
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Everyone still using this for their HDMI cables form Receiver to Projector?

11.2 Home Theater: SPEAKERS: Front Main-Mirage OMD-28's, Center-Mirage OMD-C2, Front High-Mirage OMD-5's, Front Wide-Mirage OMD-5's, Side & Rear Surrounds-Mirage OMD-5's, Subwoofers, (2) Klipsch R-112SW. EQUIP: Receiver:Denon AVR-X8500H, Amplifier: Emotiva XPA-3, Projector:3D Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5030UB, Screen: Draper 3D PREMIER TECVISION 161" HDTV (16:9) XT1800X WHITE, Blu-ray Player:Oppo UDP-203, Gaming: Xbox One X
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post #37 of 43 Old 11-26-2019, 07:13 PM
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My first pick is rigid grey PVC electrical conduit with sweeping curves, a lot less expensive. However some times I look at the path required and conclude the only rational way is the use of flexible orange.
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Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 11-27-2019 at 02:21 PM.
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post #38 of 43 Old 11-27-2019, 12:31 PM
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What type of boxes are being used to connect this tube to to create a flush look at the projector and receiver location?

11.2 Home Theater: SPEAKERS: Front Main-Mirage OMD-28's, Center-Mirage OMD-C2, Front High-Mirage OMD-5's, Front Wide-Mirage OMD-5's, Side & Rear Surrounds-Mirage OMD-5's, Subwoofers, (2) Klipsch R-112SW. EQUIP: Receiver:Denon AVR-X8500H, Amplifier: Emotiva XPA-3, Projector:3D Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5030UB, Screen: Draper 3D PREMIER TECVISION 161" HDTV (16:9) XT1800X WHITE, Blu-ray Player:Oppo UDP-203, Gaming: Xbox One X
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post #39 of 43 Old 11-27-2019, 02:28 PM
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the four methods I've used
1) bring the conduit directly through drywall and cut flush, just screw a cover plate to dress it up.
2) cut a big hole in a plastic electrical box and run the conduit into the box. You can just leave it hanging or there are finishing fittings to secure it, select an appropriate cover plate.
3) build a backer box inside the wall run the conduit into the box. Cut a single gang size hole and use a brush cover plate to hide the mess.
4) in hidden locations like the ceiling of an equipment closet just run it through the drywall and leave 2-3 inches hanging. Caulk the gap around the conduit and paint to match the room.
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Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 11-27-2019 at 02:32 PM.
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post #40 of 43 Old 11-27-2019, 02:38 PM
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I used Central vac tube in my last build and it worked great for most purposes and was a lot cheaper than even grey PVC. I got bigger grey PVC for spaces where I had a lot of wires (at the time needed to composite RGB wires etc.).
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post #41 of 43 Old 11-27-2019, 02:38 PM
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you can use a fitting like this to attach conduit to a box, you can also glue flexible conduit inside the fitting.



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post #42 of 43 Old 11-27-2019, 02:54 PM
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Found this at Home Depot
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11.2 Home Theater: SPEAKERS: Front Main-Mirage OMD-28's, Center-Mirage OMD-C2, Front High-Mirage OMD-5's, Front Wide-Mirage OMD-5's, Side & Rear Surrounds-Mirage OMD-5's, Subwoofers, (2) Klipsch R-112SW. EQUIP: Receiver:Denon AVR-X8500H, Amplifier: Emotiva XPA-3, Projector:3D Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5030UB, Screen: Draper 3D PREMIER TECVISION 161" HDTV (16:9) XT1800X WHITE, Blu-ray Player:Oppo UDP-203, Gaming: Xbox One X
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post #43 of 43 Old 11-30-2019, 03:58 PM
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I'm finishing up my runs of Resi-gard now. I chose to use backer boxes. My choice of termination was to use standard gray couplers and box adapters. The gray PVC cement seems to work well with orange conduit.

This approach only worked for me because I used thin cement board for the inner layer of my backer boxen. After working with it though, as long as you secure the conduit with a clamp close enough to the box, it'll stay in there just fine. The box adapter keeps it cleaner inside the box though which may make pulling wires easier.



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