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post #271 of 307 Old 11-28-2018, 11:20 PM
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We've had the Mexican water cops check our wristband- paid their diving fee- permits a few times, while out on the boats.
First I've heard about that! The only place I have yet to be hassled by the video permit in Mexico is Puerto Costa Maya, but then I have never seen any police there either. That whole port is run by the cruise ships so maybe they stay away. .

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post #272 of 307 Old 11-28-2018, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Landis View Post
First I've heard about that! The only place I have yet to be hassled by the video permit in Mexico is Puerto Costa Maya, but then I have never seen any police there either. That whole port is run by the cruise ships so maybe they stay away. .
I think it has something to do with some fee for the underwater marine park. The dive operators add a couple of dollars onto their fee and that goes to the govt. The hospital type wristbands are some sort of proof that it has been paid. At least I think that is what it's all about. Not really a problem, and maybe even a good thing.
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post #273 of 307 Old 11-29-2018, 09:28 AM
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I think it has something to do with some fee for the underwater marine park. The dive operators add a couple of dollars onto their fee and that goes to the govt. The hospital type wristbands are some sort of proof that it has been paid. At least I think that is what it's all about. Not really a problem, and maybe even a good thing.
It's Mexico where the police are an entrepreneurial career. More likely it is a fee to line the pockets of the ones who have the authority to collect it.

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post #274 of 307 Old 12-13-2018, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh, this is so true...Happy Holidays and 3D travels to all my good friends here...
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post #275 of 307 Old 12-16-2018, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Banggoods has a deal on the King 7S phone with 3D playback capability:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/61928539

Looks like a good Lenticular 3D display smart phone. One drawback is it's 5.1 Android OS--old by today's standards.
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post #276 of 307 Old 01-02-2019, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Something for all you reef divers out there. A snorkeling system that takes you down into the water further, and less cumbersome than a SCUBA. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/n...m/x/16301143#/
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post #277 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 12:38 AM
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Bob, is it 3D?
Or when used 2 sbs, how is synced??
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post #278 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Bob, is it 3D?
Or when used 2 sbs, how is synced??
The King 7S has a 3D center application on board and a 3D lenticular screen for showing 3D images and videos. It does not take 3D pictures. It requires a SBS image (MPO file) or SBS video input into it through the SD card. That's about all I know about it. I do not have one.

You can achieve a similar 3D image by purchasing a 3D phone case similar to this that has a lenticular screen built-into it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VSFQCB/

They have them for iphones too. I have one of these. You have to input 3D images (MPO files) and videos though a 3D VR application you can find through iTunes or Play Store. I have used it once. I found it not easy to use, but it does give a reasonable 3D image.
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post #279 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 08:09 AM
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Sorry, i asked about the snorkeling system, why do you linked here?

I have a new PPTV 7S since 2 weeks, and besides that is has a 1 pixel wide, black horizontal line, the ghosting is also very big from the best position.
Pictures with mid colors (not much contrast) are best. Videos stutters
Sharpness and colors are fine.
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post #280 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by relaxman View Post
Sorry, i asked about the snorkeling system, why do you linked here?

I have a new PPTV 7S since 2 weeks, and besides that is has a 1 pixel wide, black horizontal line, the ghosting is also very big from the best position.
Pictures with mid colors (not much contrast) are best. Videos stutters
Sharpness and colors are fine.
Haha, I thought you might have meant the snorkeling system. I simply posted it here as there are many reef divers who are also 3D video users. The snorkeling system is just another gadget that would make it easier to take 3D video underwater without having a lot of expensive SCUBA gear to carry around.


It sounds like the 7S has too many problems. The 3D screen case that I mentioned actually has a very good image, but you must be dead center to see it. Overall it works pretty good, but I found it a hassle to use as both a phone and a 3D player.
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post #281 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 08:27 AM
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but how can they take 3d with that snorkeling system?
On 7S photos with not strong contrast is nice!
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post #282 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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but how can they take 3d with that snorkeling system?
On 7S photos with not strong contrast is nice!
This is the most common 3D camera used for 3D snorkeling and SCUBA diving video: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/192-3...n-cameras.html. It is no longer in production, however, and can sometimes be found used on Amazon or Ebay. There are other 3D video cameras used that require a large case--and these are out of production as well. See Barry C's Avatar picture. The snorkeling system is just to get you under the water at a depth closer to the reefs. The cameras are separate and handheld of course, and must be water-sealed and capable of stereo video.
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post #283 of 307 Old 01-04-2019, 10:01 AM
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yes, i have the dualhero case too, and love it
I just dont see two optics by BLU3.
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post #284 of 307 Old 08-13-2019, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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New SNAPCHAT 3D sunglasses do VR. Not sure of the view you get, but could be promising...IF you are okay looking like you just came from an Elton John concert...lol.

https://www.spectacles.com/

Here's more, just announced today: https://www.wired.com/story/snap-spectacles-3-glasses/
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post #285 of 307 Old 09-17-2019, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/l...mmersive-hmd#/

Another headset that can do 3D, but with 70° field. Touts a 3840x1080 image, but actually uses micro OLED 1920x1080 chips, so my guess you can still see some pixelization. Having a wide field without distortion, though, would be a plus.

This might be a good alternative for a 3D monitor. Also states it does 3DoF, so might be useful for gaming/VR.
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post #286 of 307 Old 09-17-2019, 11:28 AM
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Dangerously close to LUCID, just drop the D.

Second, how is it powered? No mention of power source. Also looks cheaply built despite the decent specs. I thing the PS VR looks better still. Specs are less but it's about half the price. 960x1080/eye (up to 120hz) vs 1920x1080/eye (60hz) on the LUICI.

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post #287 of 307 Old 10-21-2019, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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New AR glasses on Indiegogo.com support SBS 3D: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/d...-ar-theater/#/


They don't mention it on their site, so I had to ask what 3D it supports. With the see-through glasses, I don't think it's going to be satisfying watching a movie, etc. unless you are in the dark.
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post #288 of 307 Old 02-13-2020, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I've used Topaz software for years now, and it works quite well for photos, etc. and to enhance 3D MPOs (breakdown the MPO to two jpgs and process each through Topaz, recreate MPO through Stereomaker for example).

Well, they finally came up a video AI that could really be usable in the 3D world. It's currently on sale/introduction. I downloaded it and tried it, but my graphics card can't handle it, so I need a "bigger boat" .

But maybe some of you could download the trial and try it. It mostly is for upscaling, but does have a low quality HD option to upscale it to high-quality HD. Barry, Don, Tom??

https://topazlabs.com/video-enhance-ai/
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post #289 of 307 Old 02-13-2020, 12:30 PM
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They used Star Trek The Original Series in their video up-converted to HD, lol, someone should tell them they have it on Blu ray!

Well, I don't have Nvidia GPU or Windows 10, so I'm out. I guess they have cloud processing but I'm sure there's a per use charge.

Since we're here talking about 3D equipment (or lack thereof) I decided to pick up an old Kodak Stereo camera (circa '54-'59). I probably shouldn't have but it was cheap enough, probably the cheapest 3D camera I've ever bought (accept for the film and processing of course). I really didn't want to go back to film days but there isn't much in development on 3D right now in cameras, in fact pretty much nothing in years.

One thing I'm not crazy about is the framing which is pretty much portrait for every shot so that will be interesting cropping these later or leaving in portrait for stereoscope viewing. I wish they were wider but that's just the way it was done. Oh well. I think it might be interesting to play around with. I still have the Fuji W3 and 3D1, might bring the Kodak and a few rolls of film along for special shots, paying close attention to framing.
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post #290 of 307 Old 02-13-2020, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Tom, I have the Realist 3D camera and still use it once in a while. I also had the Kodak, which you bought and that worked well too. Since the lenses are somewhat wide angle (35mm), you can typically do a 16:9 crop and get a really nice HD shot. I have over 1000 mounted slides that took about 6 months to scan and edit and create MPO files. I did this about 10 years ago. I had to create a cardboard mask. Some I left full frame, and some I cropped to 16:9. I then put the MPO files in Cyberlink Powerdirector and created a 1080p 3D bluray slide show. Typically blows everyone away when they watch the images on my big screen. I have thousands of MPO files and when I load them to an usb memory stick, they never have the same impact of loading them into a bluray slide show. They just have so much more detail for some reason. Now I crop all slides to a meaningful size that eliminates the top and bottom stuff I don't want and zooms into the important stuff. You don't always need to crop to 16:9, can be less and still look great.

Here is an example of a cropped image from 1972 - Marineland in FLA. (crosseyed 3D)
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post #291 of 307 Old 02-13-2020, 04:01 PM
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I was looking at getting a scanner. They're pretty cheap now and can save as 20 plus mb files which should be pretty good, much better than HD I would think. I considered the Realist, I may pick one up too if everything goes OK on the Kodak. I just read that on the normal f3.5 lenses they have vignetting on the Realist and not on the Kodak. Don't know if you ever had that problem. And the Kodak is easier to use, which might be better to start with.

That's cool you were shooting way back then in stereo. I think the frames are 24mm x 23mm so quite a bit lost from the full 35mm frame. There were some wide angle lenses available for Realist but probably hard to find now.

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post #292 of 307 Old 02-14-2020, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I was looking at getting a scanner. They're pretty cheap now and can save as 20 plus mb files which should be pretty good, much better than HD I would think. I considered the Realist, I may pick one up too if everything goes OK on the Kodak. I just read that on the normal f3.5 lenses they have vignetting on the Realist and not on the Kodak. Don't know if you ever had that problem. And the Kodak is easier to use, which might be better to start with.

That's cool you were shooting way back then in stereo. I think the frames are 24mm x 23mm so quite a bit lost from the full 35mm frame. There were some wide angle lenses available for Realist but probably hard to find now.
Most of the Epson flat-bed scanners now available good. I have a V700 now, but had a much older Epson when I scanned my slides and they still came out good. There is a limit to what you need to scan to get HD, of course. 20mg is probably overkill. It will take some experimenting, but there is a sweet spot, you'll find it. As for the Realist f3.5, the pic that I posted doesn't show any vignetting, and I don't remember having a problem. It might be problem with high f/stop, but I looked at my slides and they seem okay. I now have a 2.8 Realist with German lenses. There were a few of these made and are excellent. Yes, they did have wide angle lens attachments available back in the day. You can still find them on ebay and other sites that sell 3D stuff now and then. I started shooting 3D back in 1962 (yeah, I'm old ). I took a lot of pics of my two kids growing up in the 80s and 90s, and they are now very precious to me.

Here is an example of a full frame taken with the Realist 3.5 in 72, and how I cropped it to zoom in more. You can see there is no vignetting. I think there might be vignetting with the wide angle attachment, though.
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post #293 of 307 Old 02-14-2020, 01:33 PM
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Might be some vignetting in the bottom left corners, or that could just be a guardrail, seat or something. Yes, I've been looking at the 2.8 model. Faster glass. I don't like the price on them though. Only paid 50 for the Kodak. I got it in today and it's way cleaner than I thought it would be. It looks brand new, like it's just been sitting on the shelf all this time. Case looks new. Lenses look pretty clear, no fungus.

I've been looking at the V600 scanner, that fits my budget. The V850 is the high end model, I think I'll be ok with the v600.

So the Realist and the Kodak models appear to be 70mm stereo base, according to website. I checked and that seems right. Now you have the Fuji W3 right? What do you think looks better image-wise, the Realist or Fuji? I plan on getting highest scans possible and saving them and then creating the stereo pair in Stereomaker or Photoshop, depending. Then I'll take into video NLE. It can downsample the image from there. I just want the highest source for import. I would think 35mm would yield pretty good results compared to 10mp digital files from Fuji.

Soooo...got some film ordered. lol. Can't believe I'm doing this. Well, only because it's 3D. I have no interest in shooting 2D film.

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post #294 of 307 Old 02-14-2020, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic The v600 is a good choice The stereo base is wider than normal, and due to the wide angle of the lens can make some closer shots of people have elongated faces. In other words, the depth of their faces will be longer than normal. As for the comparison to digital Fuji W3. Hmm, a lot depends on the film you are going to use. What film did you order? It's all much better than it used to be, but nothing can match Kodachrome for color these days. You should take test shots of the same subject and see what differences you get. With the Kodak, you will have to do some experimentation with shutter and f/stop to get the right combination. The dynamic range of film is different than digital, so you should notice that, but then again, your scanner has a dynamic range too, that can affect the film's d-range as well. Regardless, you are going to have some real fun doing this.


FYI: Feel free to IM me about any questions you have.

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post #295 of 307 Old 02-14-2020, 04:23 PM
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Downloaded that last pick and zoomed in on bottom corner, yeah that's just the edge of the pool, looks like. And that image is of course super compressed for uploading to forum but it looks like it holds up pretty well.

Took me a minute to figure out how to set the shutter, that bar slides, easiest to hold the camera with both hands and move the slide with both thumbs on the little tabs that stick up. This is a slick little camera. I like the roller/shutter advance on it, just clicks into place so that spaces out the film correctly so you get the stereo pairs. They're not in sequence of course but at least you don't have to guess on advancing the film. And I like the little level bubble in the viewfinder, easy to keep the shot level. Bummer though, it doesn't fit in my pocket, lol. Yeah, this thing looks super easy to use. Just have to set the shutter and f stop, the focus is easy too. I think it will be fun to shoot with it. Just a lot more work and waiting before you get to view them. I'm hoping they'll work to add to 3D projects and cropping to 16x9 for some shots for Blu ray.

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post #296 of 307 Old 02-15-2020, 02:00 AM
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Now you have the Fuji W3 right? What do you think looks better image-wise, the Realist or Fuji? I plan on getting highest scans possible and saving them and then creating the stereo pair in Stereomaker or Photoshop, depending. Then I'll take into video NLE. It can downsample the image from there. I just want the highest source for import. I would think 35mm would yield pretty good results compared to 10mp digital files from Fuji.
The Fuji W3 is probably more convenient to use if you want immediate results (since it's digital) however the CCD sensor is pretty noisy (by today's standards) and is prone to dead/bright pixels - I don't think there was a way to fix this besides hacking the firmware (unlikely since it's niche). Also pretty slow F-stop wise (3.7 -> 4.2) so you really need a lot of light or the flash to get good quality out of it. It's a bit of a hit or miss apparently with the focus/alignment of the twin lenses so if you were getting one I'd always get test photos for it to evaluate if the Fuji W3 you're aiming to get is good (or bad). It's great to play around with but sounds like you'd probably prefer to use film?
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post #297 of 307 Old 02-15-2020, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm hoping they'll work to add to 3D projects and cropping to 16x9 for some shots for Blu ray.
Back in the day, when I didn't use Kodakchrome, I actually would develop my own slides. My favorite camera for developing my own slides was the Russian FED and still around these days. It had a 30mm x 24mm image, so more HD like, with 2.8 lenses.
https://www.3dworldshop.com/FED-Ster...good-condition. See image at bottom. I didn't take the time to crop it correctly, but you get the idea. I no longer have this camera, though.

You might be able to mask the finder lens in the middle to 16:9 perspective. That way you can easily get the crop you want. I found most images could be cropped top (mostly empty sky) and bottom (mostly empty ground). That said, though, to get the best depth perception, it is usually better to crop just the top as the ground out to the objects you are shooting will give a feeling of more depth.

Also, I used to scan the files into Tif files, which are huge, then correct them each with the same crop, White Balance, same everything else, so they match each other--save as jpgs and load them into Stereomaker to create MPOs out of them. You might notice a slight white balance difference between each lens as you can see in this example below.
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post #298 of 307 Old 02-15-2020, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PCummins View Post
The Fuji W3 is probably more convenient to use if you want immediate results (since it's digital) however the CCD sensor is pretty noisy (by today's standards) and is prone to dead/bright pixels - I don't think there was a way to fix this besides hacking the firmware (unlikely since it's niche). Also pretty slow F-stop wise (3.7 -> 4.2) so you really need a lot of light or the flash to get good quality out of it. It's a bit of a hit or miss apparently with the focus/alignment of the twin lenses so if you were getting one I'd always get test photos for it to evaluate if the Fuji W3 you're aiming to get is good (or bad). It's great to play around with but sounds like you'd probably prefer to use film?
Yeah, mine has a few dead pixels. I think that was a thing with CCD sensors. I think if you have enough color and detail in your shots the dead pixels don't turn up so much, least that's what I've noticed. I like it more than the 3D1 because it's 10mp over 8mp, makes a difference and of course the 75mm stereo base makes for great outdoor depth. I was asking Bob, because he has W3 and has shot stereo with the Realist too, and still does I guess. I'm just getting into stereo with film, just wanted to know how they compare. My focus on my W3, yeah just depends. Probably most annoying thing about that camera. Have to check every shot.

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post #299 of 307 Old 02-16-2020, 12:20 PM
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I missed this one. Came out last year.

Reto3D


Camera only is 89.00. This is a 3 lens 35mm film camera like the old Nimslo and Nishika cameras that were for lenticular prints.

Aimed towards wiggle .gif's.


Specs:
Film Format: 35mm
Film Transport: Manual Wind and Rewind
Optical Lens: 30mm; f11; 3 Lens (Optical grade acrylic lenses)
Focusing: Focus-free; 1m to ∞
Shutter Release: 1/125s
Flash: Built-in
Power Supply: 1*AA Alkaline Battery
Main Plastic Material: ABS
Dimension: 133 (W) x 65 (H) x 42 (D) mm
Weight: 178±10g (Excluding Battery and Film)

lenses are f11 and acrylic (they mean plastic). So garbage lenses. You need a lot of light. No focus. Only one shutter option. For 89.00 you can buy a nice 50's stereo camera. The Nimslo and Nishika camera's have shot up in price lately. A new fad, once old is new. I'm wondering on developing on these. Last I heard there was only one place to get 3 or 4 lens prints developed.

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post #300 of 307 Old 02-16-2020, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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If you are looking for lenticular printing, there are a few left. There are some mentioned in the www.dpreview.com 3D forum. Of course with the Nimslo and Nishika, you can scan two of the pics with farthest eye separation and create an MPO from them.
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