Originally Posted by tomtastic
Ok, I figured out it was set to film rewind. So I reset that and now it doesn't free-spin. But it still doesn't auto-trigger the shutter once it stops after film advancing. Have to use the manual trigger in front.
Maybe that film chamber isn't supposed to be locked down? I can pick it up and move it slightly, like it's held by springs only. the film chamber is not sealed on the sides, that worries me. It's all open in there, is it supposed to be like that? I had another 2.8 model last week I had to send back because the shutters were stuck open and I don't remember on that one. Can't seem to get a functional 2.8 Realist.
Oh, @Tomtastic, be careful! Watch this video:
Not the greatest, but should help. The center chamber is your focus chamber. The lenses are stationary and the focus chamber moves. The film cover has the flexible back that pushes the film tight against the focus chamber. Here's another video:
Old film used to have a longer leader, so back then you would shift the film advance sprocket to a white dot that would show up in the little notch above the film guide. Then load the film and advance it through the guide. I believe this used to set the film advance. You can cut the film leader so that the top of the film is just before the guide slot in the middle of the camera.
The shutter must always be cocked manually. It is purposely done this way for double exposures. The double exposure button is on the left side and you pull it out--see the end of the video. This causes the film not to be advanced and you can do a double exposure. This was done so people could take a picture through each lens separately if they wanted to. You would put a cap over one side take a pic, then move the cap to the other lens and take a pic. It also can be used to create 3D ghosts in your images. Try this: take a normal outside picture with both lens then do the double exposure switch and take an inside pic of someone with a flashlight on them in the dark. You will have cool ghost in your picture.
Always leave the film shutter speed in lowest setting when done shooting to relieve pressure on the shutter spring, which is how the spring gets stretched over the years.
For more on maintaining the Realist. Go to youtube and enter "Realist Maintenance" without quotes. There are 10 parts, some hard to see, though. Also on the same page you should see: David White Stereo Realist Shutter Test
Also, get an old flash with a floating ball on the bottom that does flash sync, then sand down the bottom the flash (assuming it's plastic) so it fits in the flash socket and the ball is floating over the round metal spot on the flash bracket. Now your flash will fire. Typically at 1/25th shutter I think. You can set the f/stop to around 5.6 - f/8 and see how that works. Might have to set it higher, or maybe the shutter speed higher, can't remember--depends on the distance to the subject. I have taken lots of family pics with the flash and they come out great.
Actually, the W3 and 3D1 don't often do this good because then tend to flash against floating dust spots creating a weird ghost spots issue. See Realist with auto flash example from below from 1988.
Your adventure continues...