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post #331 of 365 Old 03-06-2020, 10:34 PM
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The Kodak doesn't have any viewfinder to check focus. It's just set and hope I guess. I set the focus on subjects or anything that was in the way. The Realist has that second viewfinder. I take it you're suppose to align the subject up in that so there's no overlap and then the subject is supposed to be in focus? Or is that for parallax? For keeping the subject in the convergence area?

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post #332 of 365 Old 03-07-2020, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtastic View Post
The Kodak doesn't have any viewfinder to check focus. It's just set and hope I guess. I set the focus on subjects or anything that was in the way. The Realist has that second viewfinder. I take it you're suppose to align the subject up in that so there's no overlap and then the subject is supposed to be in focus? Or is that for parallax? For keeping the subject in the convergence area?
It is for focus not parallax. You can align different objects in the view and then decide where to set the depth-of-field, which is how you really need to focus for the most depth and sharpness. Parallax is based on the width of the lenses. You can discover the window, by taking several pics of the same object, moving forward and backward. The window is only about 5 feet from the camera as I remember. You can also control the window using Stereomaker. com software. Note the picture of my two kids in the tent. The outside front of the tent is about where the window is. It's pretty close to the camera. You can have a lot of fun pushing and pulling the window with Stereomaker to have arms holding objects coming through the window. See the pic attached of my cousin and son.
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post #333 of 365 Old 03-09-2020, 05:59 AM
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Bob, thanks for posting your samples in crossed-eye format. That't the quickest, easiest way for me to view stereo images on my PC. I always have issues with free-viewing due to severe astigmatism.

Your examples are gorgeous, and they really spur a renewed enthusiasm for the format (at least for me).
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post #334 of 365 Old 03-09-2020, 06:02 AM
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You can have a lot of fun pushing and pulling the window with Stereomaker to have arms holding objects coming through the window. See the pic attached of my cousin and son.
Whoa! You'll put somebody's eye out with shots like that! That's how 3-D is supposed to look.
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post #335 of 365 Old 03-09-2020, 12:43 PM
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Taken me awhile to figure out this scanner but I finally have it down pretty well. It was cropping off images, got that sorted. Also have to select all each time to get Digital ICE to work for each scan. Going thru 2 large tubs of old 35mm film that's been sitting down in basement for years and years which I had planned on scanning at some point, guess that time is here. Some of it has curled a little. The holder straightens it out mostly, but I notice there's a little bit of skewing going on. It's not much a little top and bottom, considering the image quality isn't that great, I see most of the film was taken on a cheap point and shoot camera, there's not a lot of resolution there. My wife shot everything back then. I wasn't into cameras at that time, only video. I'm just using 3200dpi on these since the quality isn't that great to begin with.

Now on the Kodak, I had a few indoor shots where I had the settings the same and they turned out better, not over exposed like everything else. Not great, I think the depth of field is still off but I can see the real quality of 35mm with proper glass. I'm using 9600dpi with that, it yields roughly 72.5mp images for square imaging.

One thing that's going to be tricky is pairing these up in post, mainly if you have similar shots. On the Kodak it has those notches up in the sprocket holes (one for left 2 for right) but those are mostly cropped out. I might have to rescan them and see if I can retain some of the sprockets. Then get them paired up and crop them down. Mostly, as I said, similar shots will make this difficult. Going to try pairing a few up next.
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post #336 of 365 Old 03-09-2020, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic : Watch Digital ICE, while it appears to work okay, you might find detail missing. What I did is scan and then did post processing to remove dust. It actually works better, but takes longer. The Digital ICE is a routine that focuses on the outer film, not the focused part of the film. But when you have curling, this doesn't always work. Best thing to do with old film is back roll it and leave it in a plastic film container for several days. Back rolling will usually take out the center deformation as it stretches the edges back into shape. You can also try putting a sealed plastic film holder into some warm water to soften the film--don't get the film wet, though. When I scanned, I always saved the shots in order with a designation. Epson scanners will update the scan number by one for each scan. The other way is to block the slides in the middle of the match up and move that block as you scan. That way you can easily pick out what goes with what, by skipping frames in the scan. Takes longer, but makes life easier.

You bring back tears as I remember how much fun this was scanning all of my slides and getting them to today's quality. Epson scanners also have color restoration feature. Try that on slides that have a greenish or blueish tint. It does a great job restoring colors most of the time.
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post #337 of 365 Old 03-09-2020, 06:07 PM
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I didn't think the color restoration looked correct to me. I've left that unchecked. Digital ICE also doubles the scan time, I might disable it then. Color correction I can do in post. Not sure if I can back roll, these are already cut. They're usually about 4 or 5 images at most sometimes 1 or 2 on one short segment, usually at the first part of roll and last. It'll be tricky. Overall, it's not too bad. I know there was a plastic tool included to straighten it. Oh, and a few I've run across where the image was red which the scanner corrected a little but the color is still washed. And found one roll that had been doubled exposed, I guess someone rewound it and forgot to pull it. I forgot to mention my wife worked in a Walmart photo lab for a time when we first met so we got lots of film developed then.

There is something more personal about film. I think it's because now that film is more expensive and you can't immediately see the results like with digital, there's more reason to make each shot count, to be minimalistic in shot selection. You can't fire off shot after shot like digital and that's the point, film is just special that way like it or not.

And then there's the quality, and viewing your shots, I have no doubt these will look good in a slide viewer or on a 4K 3D display. I think the Fuji looks pretty good with 10mp but that's if the lenses are both in focus. Film look is also another appeal, if that is your thing. I like it, it's something you can't really duplicate in post. Film just has that nostalgic feeling, digital is more accurate, film more artistic and natural.

So close to spring I can't hardly wait! I want to shoot on these cameras but it's still so blah outside.

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post #338 of 365 Old 03-21-2020, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic I might add, that once you have the two slides scanned, you will need to post process to get the dust off. There will be some. You can do this in most picture processing programs like PaintShopPro for example, but you have to be careful not to take a big bite out of the image when removing or cloning, otherwise you will get a weird floating object in your image. Also, you will want to apply the exact same tweaks to each image. Stereomaker will let you do this to some extent, but a post processing program will allow you to recover color and white balance more easily for each slide. After you are done fixing each slide, I then open them as L/R images in Stereomaker. then do auto alignment. You can do this as a batch process. For some 3D images you can also do window alignment to push or pull objects in and out of the 3D window. After you have completed that with the L/R images you can create the standard MPO file used by most 3D apps. I have calculated window alignment for my projector so the image will end up have infinity objects at 2.5 inches, then I do a batch process to auto-align all the images for that.

There is a company that has done a lot of work with 3D apps. If you have a 3D monitor their 3D Composer works great! If you get the Pro version you can also do your own 3D adjustments and move objects back and forth--not for the faint of heart, though ;o). You can optimize the 3D in images, but it really just adjusts the window properly. They also have a cellphone app as well.

http://3dmedia.com/products/3dcomposer-page.html

Edit: I should add that this website was last updated in 2013, but the products are still available I think. They were and are still very good.

Hope all is well with you and you are staying away from the virus. I'm pretty much housebound her in Michigan except for getting groceries. It's getting really dicey to go anywhere now.

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post #339 of 365 Old 03-21-2020, 01:26 PM
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I was planning another trip to NM, for June but that's now on hold. Was going to get film permit/ins. etc. since it was in a NP, this was for next Blu ray 3D project. Since it's gotten so bad I decided to hold off on paperwork and reserving a campsite and now they have closed the campsite and museum. I keep waiting for the closure of NP's here at some point. They won't be able to keep up with influx of visitors. Was going to release my Botanica 3D feature later this summer after I finished up filming a recent addition but that might be pushed back depending on when they reopen.

Yeah, without getting too political this was about as botched up as you could get. Should have locked things down back in jan/Feb but someone up top thinks they know better than the scientific community. About the middle of Feb. I was saying here at home how they might have to cancel Olympics. They knew it was bad.

Well, I have about 10 rolls left of old film. I've slowed down a little, getting tired of scanning now. Scanned about 30 rolls already. From our pre-digital days '98-'04. Good time to get projects done around the house.
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post #340 of 365 Old 04-14-2020, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic and others from the old 3D-slide-camera days. Here is a link you might enjoy. These are legends in the 3D world. Seton Rochwite was the inventor the Realist camera and several others. Just click on his picture and others. https://archivesusie3d.wixsite.com/3-dlegends

Still looking for evidence, from your cameras--lol. Hope all is well with you and everyone on this forum !
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post #341 of 365 Old 04-14-2020, 07:40 PM
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Well, the couple rolls that I managed to shoot, most shots were blown out because my settings were off. And now everything is shut down so I can't go anywhere. I'm getting anxious. Weather is getting better and it's green out. I imagine my local photo lab is closed anyway.

Been cleaning out garage in spare time. Found 3 rolls of old film that were never developed. That would be from at least 2004 or older. And I found 1 roll that was never used. I'll probably throw it in and use it one of my stereo cameras. So I have about 40 rolls of iso 200 and 11 rolls of 400. I need to get some 120 medium format next for Sputnik. I scanned in some 6x7 negatives that my wife had of her HS pictures. She had the original negatives because the guy closed down his business and was throwing everything out. So played around with a few of those in photoshop. MF is real nice. Can't wait to shoot stereo with it!

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post #342 of 365 Old 05-19-2020, 02:57 AM
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Not really 3D news but Apple buys VR company NextVR.

Maybe they have some VR plans.

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post #343 of 365 Old 06-05-2020, 12:48 PM
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So ran a few rolls thru this week and I have another camera with issues. I will not buy any more of these unless they've been tested with film. If they are as-is or not fully tested then keep looking. My Revere 33 with Wollensak lenses suddenly won't advance film properly. It just spins and spins now and it used to always click and stop at the right spot then trigger the shutter every time I tested it without film. Had film in it and it just spins past where it's supposed to stop. Got it home, rewound the film and played around with it. It will sometimes work, mostly not. I really wanted to use this camera too. Has auto cocking shutter advance and overall a nice metal body camera.

I took the Kodak and of course had no issues with that camera. I think the Kodak might be the best of the 50's stereo cameras. Easy to use, reliable and it has threaded filter rings. So I had the wide angle lenses on them. Also took the Nimslo and I couldn't tell if it was film advancing either but I know it's electronic. I wasted a few shots at the end of the roll but found out it was actually advancing fine. But the film counter was stuck at 18 the entire time so I didn't know if it was exposing the same film over and over or not but I think it was working properly. I won't know for sure until it's developed.

I've gone thru all my cameras and tested all shutter speeds and such so I know what's wrong with all of them. The Revere 33, it was working perfectly fine before, now just might be a shelf piece. If it won't stop in the right place on film advance then it's worthless for taking photos.

If you're going to sell a camera you should test it first. So many listings that are not tested on eBay.

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post #344 of 365 Old 06-06-2020, 04:18 AM
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There used to be a good camera repair shop in Beaverton, OR that specialized in 3D camera repair. I had my View-Master Personal Stereo fixed there for an inaccurate f16 aperture that was vignetting. They also added a flash port to the camera. But that was many years ago, and they may not still be around.

** I just did a search and found that Advance Camera is indeed still in business after 30 years. In my case they were reasonable and the work was excellent.

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post #345 of 365 Old 06-06-2020, 11:46 AM
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My local camera shop is shutting down here in a month or so. Sad. I did take one camera in and he said it would be a complete teardown and the type of shutters are pretty tricky to get right. That was a TDC Vivid model. I wasn't too worried about that one since I probably wouldn't use it much.

So the Revere 33, I left it alone for awhile on the shelf and late last night starting messing with it again and strangely it started working, advancing and stopping when the shutter was cocked. So might be alright. I hope that one is ok, it functions correctly on all shutter speeds and it's a beautiful camera. My Stereo Colorist II the 1/10 shutter doesn't work which isn't too big a deal, all others work fine. I can just use the B if I need a longer burn.

And my Sputnik the left shutter is partially stuck so it won't work f11 and below without darkening on that lens so only for bright daylight shots. It came from Russia and I ended up just taking a partial refund rather than return it. And then I found that my beautiful Realist 45 it sometimes sticks on f11 and f8 but not always. Instead of 200 or 100 shutter you'll get 25. But if I move the aperture ring back and forth before using those settings it usually fixes it and sometimes it fires just fine on those apertures, just depends. Realist 45 is a great looking camera.

So it's interesting when you see these listed and they say untested or even everything is working. Chances are, as old as they are, they're not. I think it might be difficult finding a place to repair them now, yes might have to ship it out now. Have to see do they have a website?

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post #346 of 365 Old 06-07-2020, 06:32 AM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic , I remember using WD40 sprayed on a cotton swab and dabbing it on sticky shutters and aperture assemblies. WD40 will thin out old lubricant and re-lube the parts. Was recommended by a lot of old camera users. I really enjoy reading about your adventures with these old cameras. It has inspired me to get mine out again.
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post #347 of 365 Old 06-07-2020, 03:24 PM
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Shot 3 rolls of film today, again on the Kodak and I tried the Revere 33 again. This time it worked like a champ. Accept the strap broke and camera nearly fell in to the river below. I was shooting on a bridge. I managed to stop it with my foot before it went over the side. It didn't seem to phase it at all. Pretty tough metal body camera.

Well, I've got about 7 rolls now that need developed so I think I'll stop and see how they turned out. So much to check now on results. Daylight settings which I should have dialed in correctly now. Wide angle lenses on the kodak which I have no idea how those will turn out. And the Revere 33 which I have not seen any film from yet. Can't wait to see the results, too bad I can't just do a file transfer and upload them, lol.
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post #348 of 365 Old 06-23-2020, 05:37 PM
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Ran into a snag trying to pair up left/right images. I have them imported into Stereophoto Maker. Just started using it. I can't seem to figure out how to eliminate the black space between the two images. I can get everything else done, like cropping, color matching all that. But when I save the image as a mpo file, take it into either PD or VP, the images are laid out side by side with a huge space between them. When I put the images on the timeline and view in PD it looks OK, but not when the file is rendered out.

Any ideas? I'm about ready to just take them into Photoshop and make left/right images there. But I can't save as mpo file and I don't think they will work right either in VP or PD, maybe as a side by side file. I don't know. I'm close, I just never used Stereophoto Maker before. Something else that's weird is trying to make animated gif, it just closes the app and doesn't save anything. I haven't figured that out yet either.

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post #349 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic : I did hundreds of slides in Stereomaker without a problem. Maybe if you could send me a couple of images you are having a problem with, I could figure out how to solve it. I had to solve the issue of where the window is and there is a feature function to determine that and the separation of all distant objects. Then you can batch process all the slides to this selection criteria. Are you scanning images as realist size or some other like 16:9 HD?
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post #350 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 10:26 AM
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I figured out how to get the back space removed between the images. But that didn't solve the issue. I think the issue is that the images are square 1:1, but when used on a 16:9 timeline, they no longer align properly. I think the solution is to place them in a 16:9 frame maybe.

I have them scanned individually and then I imported them into Stereomaker. In PD, after I import the mpo file, if I zoom the photo in so it's 16:9, it works fine but I can't get the entire 1:1 square image to work. Trying to remember how I did it with the Fuji files but mostly I've used 16:9 images from that camera. I might grab a 4:3 mpo still and see how it works in PD.

I'll post some examples of what I have going wrong here in a bit.

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post #351 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 12:31 PM
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Ok, got it to work. So actually it did work removing the middle border and saving as a side by side .jpg. I tried once again to save as .mpo but it doesn't layout correctly in PD or VP. I import and identify as side by side full but the image is squished when I view it on screen. For some reason side by side works so I guess I'll just use that method.

So there were actually about a half dozen stereo images from earlier this year that actually aren't too bad since they were shot inside, the rest were over exposed but I think these are usable. And I just picked up 12 rolls of film from lab so I've got a bunch of scanning to do. I found 4 old Walmart Polaroid rolls in the garage earlier this year when cleaning. Looked like 3 were used and 1 had never been used so I went ahead and used that one just to see what it would do. Found out one of the 3 was blank though and one of the rolls it doesn't look too good. lol. Well we quit with film in 2004 so it's at least that old. Been sitting in the garage all these years in the heat.

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post #352 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic : Could you post a MPO file so I/we could download it and see what you are seeing?
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post #353 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic : Check this out

This is a MPO I made with Stereomaker from a very old realist slide. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zbl...qc17ST5yw/view

Click on the link and download the file (upper right corner) to get the MPO file. I have hundreds like these and have had no problems. If this looks incorrect to you, then you might have a problem with whatever you are viewing these with. I have made blurays and also looked at these as loaded mpo files a thumb drive, and my 3D TV images look great. Many of my slides, have I cropped to 16:9 since the top and bottom are usually just ground or useless sky. Here is a similar shot cropped to 16:9: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XXR...QYtibPWu3/view You can see that most realist slides can be cropped without losing the value of the scene, and creating more visual impact. These slides are from 1972.

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post #354 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 07:00 PM
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Well I give up on the animated gif output from Stereomaker. It just crashes every time. I have it reduced down in size but it doesn't matter. I used to have an old gif maker app on a previous machine I'm going to fire that machine up and see if I can find it. Everything now is uploaded to a website which I don't like. Animated gifs have been around forever, I don't know why it's not working in Stereomaker. I followed the directions but it doesn't do anything. So annoying.

I got two mpo files uploaded. I'll send you a link.
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post #355 of 365 Old 06-24-2020, 08:01 PM
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Ok, I figured out what I was doing wrong with mpo. So the mpo's were working but I didn't have my 3D monitor set to full screen when playing video so it was slightly off causing this big overlap. I thought it was a border issue. They looked fine on the timeline in red/blue. But pipped over to 3D screen they overlapped too much. But I realized the I didn't have the file playing in full screen then it looked great.

I tried a side by side half file in PD. Looks a little soft. I suppose full would look a little better. I am rendering out a 4K version top/bottom half in VP. Yeah, I think I'll do what you did and load some mpo's up on a thumb drive, just for viewing to keep the resolution and full quality. For video, just seeing what looks best. I plan on adding a few to my Botanica project, that will be just 1080p though.
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post #356 of 365 Old 06-25-2020, 11:02 AM
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I tried some mpo's on thumb drive but both my 4K LG's didn't recognize files. Might be too big.

Have you ever messed around with the animated gif feature? I know that issue is in Stereomaker. Keeps crashing for me.

I briefly did some color adjusting/matching which worked pretty well on these. I did some cropping so the images matched up based on overall size to get them equal. I didn't do much on alignment. I will take a look at that again.

On scanning, I managed to get 4 rolls of old film done yesterday. So I had found 4 rolls of old Walmart Poloraid in garage. They were at least 16 years old. 3 had already been used, never developed. One roll was almost completely gone, the said it was blank but I could scan some of it and see what it was at least.

Two other rolls were old pictures from same time about 2003 or 2004, right before we went digital. And really, they didn't look too bad. It was like they had been developed then and not now for most part. Then I scanned in the last Poloroid roll that I shot last week that had never been used. I used it in the Kodak with the wide angle lenses off. For most part the images looked pretty darn good. One image there's just a slight yellow area. But I'm really impressed with the quality out of the Kodak and the film look. So this roll was last week and it was party cloudy, I shot F8 mostly, a few shady areas F7. One shot in the shade, it really has that vintage look, like it was shot 50 or 60 years ago. Slightly, underexposed. But that's it on the old film, no more. I am working on my website, I will be posting some images there. Trying to get animated gif function to work, best way to show 3D in a 2D environment.

And I've got one roll of Kodak 400 that I used on the Nimslo. I couldn't tell when I was using it if the auto advance was working. I couldn't hear it or feel it working, thought I was exposing same frame but I found out later it must have been working because I got to the end. So those are four images, two per 35mm frame. And then I have a bunch of Fuji 200 stereo's to go through. I can see which ones are wide angle just looking at the film. So I had the 37mm wide angle lenses on the Kodak for a bunch of shots, it looks like it's rounding the corners off but that might be OK if I crop them in for 16:9.

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post #357 of 365 Old 06-25-2020, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Try downsizing your files. I fiddled with your two images on Stereomaker. The one that was 49mb, blewup Stereomaker, and shut it down. I would try to stay in the 5-10MB range tops. And maybe even about 2MB for Gifs. It's really a minimovie. As I remember, I had a problem with large files on a thumb drive as well that had problems. When you loaded the thumb drive, did you put the TV in 3D mode? What LG models do you have? I will have to try that again on mine and see how I got it to work. Oh, I think I loaded it through the Sony bluray player attached to the LG...

Note: Also, if you are using a passive 3D monitor to edit, you can select the Stereo tab (after you load a file), the Interlaced Tab--then Row Interlaced and you will see a 3D image without invoking a program to see it. Therefore you can edit it in 3D (with glasses of course) as you go.

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post #358 of 365 Old 06-25-2020, 12:12 PM
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Yeah, that was the first thing I did. I lowered resolution to 800pixels wide with resize tool. But it still doesn't work. I might lower the resolution before importing files see if that does anything. I don't have a problem with the files otherwise making side by side and mpo's. But animated gif, it just closes up the app.

I have a 49" UB8500 and a 65" E6 OLED.

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post #359 of 365 Old 06-25-2020, 03:43 PM
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Tried resizing both images down to about 70k each hardly anthing, then bringing them back in and making gif. Same thing, it just closes up the app. I've been trying under file/make animation gif, that just closes up and does nothing. I also tried under file/movie image sequence/animation gif. Create a save title. The progress bar completes at the bottom, then it starts over says reduced color, get's not quite half way and stops. Then the app says it's not responding and I have to force quit it. So either way it just does that every time.

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post #360 of 365 Old 06-25-2020, 09:53 PM
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Fired up my old Mac G5 and found the animated gif app and the old app actually works on my Mac Pro surprisingly. So I can make animated gifs from there.
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