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post #331 of 339 Old 03-06-2020, 10:34 PM
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The Kodak doesn't have any viewfinder to check focus. It's just set and hope I guess. I set the focus on subjects or anything that was in the way. The Realist has that second viewfinder. I take it you're suppose to align the subject up in that so there's no overlap and then the subject is supposed to be in focus? Or is that for parallax? For keeping the subject in the convergence area?

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post #332 of 339 Old 03-07-2020, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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The Kodak doesn't have any viewfinder to check focus. It's just set and hope I guess. I set the focus on subjects or anything that was in the way. The Realist has that second viewfinder. I take it you're suppose to align the subject up in that so there's no overlap and then the subject is supposed to be in focus? Or is that for parallax? For keeping the subject in the convergence area?
It is for focus not parallax. You can align different objects in the view and then decide where to set the depth-of-field, which is how you really need to focus for the most depth and sharpness. Parallax is based on the width of the lenses. You can discover the window, by taking several pics of the same object, moving forward and backward. The window is only about 5 feet from the camera as I remember. You can also control the window using Stereomaker. com software. Note the picture of my two kids in the tent. The outside front of the tent is about where the window is. It's pretty close to the camera. You can have a lot of fun pushing and pulling the window with Stereomaker to have arms holding objects coming through the window. See the pic attached of my cousin and son.
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post #333 of 339 Old 03-09-2020, 05:59 AM
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Bob, thanks for posting your samples in crossed-eye format. That't the quickest, easiest way for me to view stereo images on my PC. I always have issues with free-viewing due to severe astigmatism.

Your examples are gorgeous, and they really spur a renewed enthusiasm for the format (at least for me).
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post #334 of 339 Old 03-09-2020, 06:02 AM
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You can have a lot of fun pushing and pulling the window with Stereomaker to have arms holding objects coming through the window. See the pic attached of my cousin and son.
Whoa! You'll put somebody's eye out with shots like that! That's how 3-D is supposed to look.
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post #335 of 339 Old 03-09-2020, 12:43 PM
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Taken me awhile to figure out this scanner but I finally have it down pretty well. It was cropping off images, got that sorted. Also have to select all each time to get Digital ICE to work for each scan. Going thru 2 large tubs of old 35mm film that's been sitting down in basement for years and years which I had planned on scanning at some point, guess that time is here. Some of it has curled a little. The holder straightens it out mostly, but I notice there's a little bit of skewing going on. It's not much a little top and bottom, considering the image quality isn't that great, I see most of the film was taken on a cheap point and shoot camera, there's not a lot of resolution there. My wife shot everything back then. I wasn't into cameras at that time, only video. I'm just using 3200dpi on these since the quality isn't that great to begin with.

Now on the Kodak, I had a few indoor shots where I had the settings the same and they turned out better, not over exposed like everything else. Not great, I think the depth of field is still off but I can see the real quality of 35mm with proper glass. I'm using 9600dpi with that, it yields roughly 72.5mp images for square imaging.

One thing that's going to be tricky is pairing these up in post, mainly if you have similar shots. On the Kodak it has those notches up in the sprocket holes (one for left 2 for right) but those are mostly cropped out. I might have to rescan them and see if I can retain some of the sprockets. Then get them paired up and crop them down. Mostly, as I said, similar shots will make this difficult. Going to try pairing a few up next.
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post #336 of 339 Old 03-09-2020, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic : Watch Digital ICE, while it appears to work okay, you might find detail missing. What I did is scan and then did post processing to remove dust. It actually works better, but takes longer. The Digital ICE is a routine that focuses on the outer film, not the focused part of the film. But when you have curling, this doesn't always work. Best thing to do with old film is back roll it and leave it in a plastic film container for several days. Back rolling will usually take out the center deformation as it stretches the edges back into shape. You can also try putting a sealed plastic film holder into some warm water to soften the film--don't get the film wet, though. When I scanned, I always saved the shots in order with a designation. Epson scanners will update the scan number by one for each scan. The other way is to block the slides in the middle of the match up and move that block as you scan. That way you can easily pick out what goes with what, by skipping frames in the scan. Takes longer, but makes life easier.

You bring back tears as I remember how much fun this was scanning all of my slides and getting them to today's quality. Epson scanners also have color restoration feature. Try that on slides that have a greenish or blueish tint. It does a great job restoring colors most of the time.
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post #337 of 339 Old 03-09-2020, 06:07 PM
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I didn't think the color restoration looked correct to me. I've left that unchecked. Digital ICE also doubles the scan time, I might disable it then. Color correction I can do in post. Not sure if I can back roll, these are already cut. They're usually about 4 or 5 images at most sometimes 1 or 2 on one short segment, usually at the first part of roll and last. It'll be tricky. Overall, it's not too bad. I know there was a plastic tool included to straighten it. Oh, and a few I've run across where the image was red which the scanner corrected a little but the color is still washed. And found one roll that had been doubled exposed, I guess someone rewound it and forgot to pull it. I forgot to mention my wife worked in a Walmart photo lab for a time when we first met so we got lots of film developed then.

There is something more personal about film. I think it's because now that film is more expensive and you can't immediately see the results like with digital, there's more reason to make each shot count, to be minimalistic in shot selection. You can't fire off shot after shot like digital and that's the point, film is just special that way like it or not.

And then there's the quality, and viewing your shots, I have no doubt these will look good in a slide viewer or on a 4K 3D display. I think the Fuji looks pretty good with 10mp but that's if the lenses are both in focus. Film look is also another appeal, if that is your thing. I like it, it's something you can't really duplicate in post. Film just has that nostalgic feeling, digital is more accurate, film more artistic and natural.

So close to spring I can't hardly wait! I want to shoot on these cameras but it's still so blah outside.

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post #338 of 339 Old 03-21-2020, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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@tomtastic I might add, that once you have the two slides scanned, you will need to post process to get the dust off. There will be some. You can do this in most picture processing programs like PaintShopPro for example, but you have to be careful not to take a big bite out of the image when removing or cloning, otherwise you will get a weird floating object in your image. Also, you will want to apply the exact same tweaks to each image. Stereomaker will let you do this to some extent, but a post processing program will allow you to recover color and white balance more easily for each slide. After you are done fixing each slide, I then open them as L/R images in Stereomaker. then do auto alignment. You can do this as a batch process. For some 3D images you can also do window alignment to push or pull objects in and out of the 3D window. After you have completed that with the L/R images you can create the standard MPO file used by most 3D apps. I have calculated window alignment for my projector so the image will end up have infinity objects at 2.5 inches, then I do a batch process to auto-align all the images for that.

There is a company that has done a lot of work with 3D apps. If you have a 3D monitor their 3D Composer works great! If you get the Pro version you can also do your own 3D adjustments and move objects back and forth--not for the faint of heart, though ;o). You can optimize the 3D in images, but it really just adjusts the window properly. They also have a cellphone app as well.

http://3dmedia.com/products/3dcomposer-page.html

Edit: I should add that this website was last updated in 2013, but the products are still available I think. They were and are still very good.

Hope all is well with you and you are staying away from the virus. I'm pretty much housebound her in Michigan except for getting groceries. It's getting really dicey to go anywhere now.

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post #339 of 339 Old 03-21-2020, 01:26 PM
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I was planning another trip to NM, for June but that's now on hold. Was going to get film permit/ins. etc. since it was in a NP, this was for next Blu ray 3D project. Since it's gotten so bad I decided to hold off on paperwork and reserving a campsite and now they have closed the campsite and museum. I keep waiting for the closure of NP's here at some point. They won't be able to keep up with influx of visitors. Was going to release my Botanica 3D feature later this summer after I finished up filming a recent addition but that might be pushed back depending on when they reopen.

Yeah, without getting too political this was about as botched up as you could get. Should have locked things down back in jan/Feb but someone up top thinks they know better than the scientific community. About the middle of Feb. I was saying here at home how they might have to cancel Olympics. They knew it was bad.

Well, I have about 10 rolls left of old film. I've slowed down a little, getting tired of scanning now. Scanned about 30 rolls already. From our pre-digital days '98-'04. Good time to get projects done around the house.
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