Originally Posted by ShakingSonyDown
Okay... first off BIG APOLOGIES if this backfires. Its apparent the only thing stopping my 46" Bravia is updating the EDID code to authorize proper IR Tx.
I'm a bit confused here... If you spoof the EDID (by using an EDID-HDMI Detective, Dr.HDMI, etc.) will a Sony TV then output the IR codes for the Sony glasses to work in LL or RR mode by just touching the button...as if it were the PS3 3D Display (let's call it PS3DD for short)?
Or will you still need modded glasses (or switchable glasses like the Fury ones or the Xpand ones that can manually switch)?
It would be nice if Sony would allow the PS3 to do this for all Sony 3D TVs, but if they won't, I'm thinking a $100 EDID device is not that
bad to get it to work. Funny enough I actually have the PS3 3D Display, I've never used it though, lol. Got it on sale for $100 but I've never even tried it out!
For the guy that asked for cheaper... A little late but... The PS3 3D glasses (which are capable of LL/RR operation but only when sent the command from the PS3DD) are only $20 these days and it seems that's the reg. price (they've been as cheap as $15 on sale I think!). You can find here a guide to mod the PS3 glasses to be permanently LL or RR:
There aren't really any pics other than the one with them opened up, but it does tell you how to re-wire them, nonetheless.
So for $30-40 you could buy TWO pairs of those and mod them, which is cheaper than one pair of the Xpand X104s (cheapest I've seen is around $50 per pair on those). I wonder if there's actually some way to mod them up and use the battery switch on the PS3 glasses to be able to switch from LL/RR mode back to normal operation? Like permanently wire the battery ON, then use the switch somehow to change between 3D and RR (or LL). You'd still need specific sets for P1 and P2 of course, but then you could save even more $$$ by having them still usable for 3D operation!
[Edit: I thought about the switch and I think the battery switch itself is going to be a single pole/single throw switch, just to connect/disconnect the battery. For switching to 3D and LL or RR operation I guess you'd need a double pole, double throw switch, right? So in addition to disconnecting the battery wiring, I guess you'd have to find a suitable switch to go in place of the original one.]