Replacing rechargeable Epson 3D glasses battery - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 27 Old 10-15-2016, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Replacing rechargeable Epson 3D glasses battery

The battery on one of my pairs of Epson 3D glasses (model ELPGS03) no longer takes a charge. I took them apart and found a battery that had "3.7V .15Wh" on it. After doing a little research, I was able to find that the ".15Wh" is the watt hours and the amperage is 0.040540540540541, or about 40mah. I found 3.7v, 40mah polymer lithium ion batteries for sale on the web. Is this the same type of battery used in the glasses? It seems so, but I have never heard of "polymer Lithium Ion" batteries. I had been charging my glasses from a computer usb port, but there are a lot of warnings with these batteries about how they are charged and how the upper limit for charging is 4.2V. Can these be used as a replacement? I attached a pic of the existing battery. Here is an example of one of the sites selling batteries: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13852

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks
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post #2 of 27 Old 11-03-2016, 04:58 PM
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Unhappy Not Any Help Just More Problems

I have the same problem with my Epson 3D glasses (same model). How did you get them apart? I would also like some help with battery replacement.

Sorry couldn't help more
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post #3 of 27 Old 12-06-2017, 09:31 AM
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Red face Have you ever been able to replace the battery?

Have you been able to replace the battery?

I got into the same situation. Two new pairs of Epson 3D glasses are dead on delivery!!
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-12-2019, 08:12 AM
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resurrecting the thread! I took the leap and ordered a couple of these batteries:

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...045-ND/8680975

They are a bit thicker than the original batteries but they do fit fine in the casing. The replacement does require you to know how to solder, so it's not for everyone.
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post #5 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftothe3 View Post
resurrecting the thread! I took the leap and ordered a couple of these batteries:

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...045-ND/8680975

They are a bit thicker than the original batteries but they do fit fine in the casing. The replacement does require you to know how to solder, so it's not for everyone.
I have disassembled glasses in the center but can’t see how to detach around the earpieces. How did you do that? Thanks
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post #6 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gentis View Post
I have disassembled glasses in the center but can’t see how to detach around the earpieces. How did you do that? Thanks

Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.
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post #7 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titan ii View Post
Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.
Got it, thanks! I missed seeing them.
How hard was it to replace the battery?
Where did you buy replacement battery?
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post #8 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gentis View Post
Got it, thanks! I missed seeing them.
How hard was it to replace the battery?
Where did you buy replacement battery?
I only took them apart to see what I needed. I ordered 6 batteries from China for 10.50. Otherwise, it would be 8.00 for a single one here in the states. I am not getting the 70mah mentioned in a post above, but am getting ones like what is in it.
Go on ebay and search 401215.
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post #9 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titan ii View Post
I only took them apart to see what I needed. I ordered 6 batteries from China for 10.50. Otherwise, it would be 8.00 for a single one here in the states. I am not getting the 70mah mentioned in a post above, but am getting ones like what is in it.
Go on ebay and search 401215.
Thanks. Did those batteries work?
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post #10 of 27 Old 05-23-2019, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gentis View Post
Thanks. Did those batteries work?
I just ordered them yesterday. I do not see why they will not. They have the same specifications.

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post #11 of 27 Old 06-04-2019, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gentis View Post
Thanks. Did those batteries work?
Yes. "Slight" difference in physical dimensions, but it fits fine. Electrical specs are the same. New one is on bottom.
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post #12 of 27 Old 03-14-2020, 08:00 PM
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Screwdriver?

Quote:
Originally Posted by titan ii View Post
Fold the glasses and look into the end where the earpieces fold to. There are two screws on each side. I just did one yesterday.
Could you please tell what kind of screwdriver you used to unscrew the screw in the middle?
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post #13 of 27 Old 06-14-2020, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SlavaSk View Post
Could you please tell what kind of screwdriver you used to unscrew the screw in the middle?
anyone find this out? it seems to be a very small torx head size...
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post #14 of 27 Old 06-23-2020, 07:08 PM
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So the consensus is you need to solder any replacement battery to install it in the glasses?

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post #15 of 27 Old 06-26-2020, 05:47 PM
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I just replaced batteries in two pairs of my glasses (got them new from eBay but they sat for too long so batteries wouldn't charge; probably would be the case with many of these glasses since they've been discontinued for a while now). To open the frame you need a tiny torx and phillips (torx is T4 and phillips PH000 or PH00 works, it seems PH00 fits better though; if you have one of these iFixIt kits then you have all you need to open the case). There is one torx holding a nose piece, and two more underneath. There are two phillips screws in the inner side of the frame and two more on each end in the hinge, you must fold the glasses to see them. You must have a plastic spudger or guitar pick to open the case. With all screws removed gently pull around hinge area inward to get it open, then work with a spudger inward towards the nose piece. I got a pair of batteries from a DigiKey link above because eBay ones seemed too shady and I was worried about it being a fire hazard. Anyway, DigiKey batteries did work fine, however they are too thick and I could barely get the cover back on. I were able to close it but it is definitely pushing a bit so there's a slight opening in the cover. It is not too apparent though. The wires are a bit thicker which makes them difficult to route. You have to route them because edge of the board is almost touching the housing and there's probably a millimeter or two of clearance from the battery PCB pads. The pads are very small with little spacing in between and lots of other components around them. PCB doesn't come out of the housing so you have to hold the soldering iron on a 45 degree angle or so (I have a professional temperature controller soldering station with a pencil iron, used a thin needle tip at 350 degrees; solder is lead free. You absolute must have a thin tip in order to be able to solder this, it's incredibly tiny). I did slightly burn the housing trying on my first pair while trying to get through the factory solder (hint: use flux or apply new solder over the factory solder joint to make it melt easily with little effort).


So yeah, you do have to solder in your new battery. You may be able to get a small inline connector and cut old battery wire and attach it to a connector or directly solder old battery wire to new battery wire. I actually wish I did that instead of soldering to original pads as it was a real pain in the butt and I could barely see them even with a magnifying glass lamp. You have to be really careful to not short the wires. I got them soldered properly but as I was trying to position the wire my first attempt resulted in a short but I caught it just in time as battery got really hot. I cleared the short with a plastic spudger and then used some electrical tape to insulate the contacts (physically bending wires in opposite direction helped a lot as well). I would recommend a different battery that is a bit thinner than that from DigiKey, however it did work and charges but with it being too thick you cannot make a perfect repair. So yeah, all in all both of my glasses are working and I'm fairly happy with results. I would be 100% happy if battery thickness was just as OEM. I couldn't find the exact OEM battery specs though. Maybe those eBay ones are the right size but I would never buy a battery from unknown source, just too risky in terms of fire safety.


I've attached some pics, sorry I didn't take one reassembled where you can see the case doesn't fully close (it is very minor though, just a small split at the top above the nosepiece since there are no screws in that area). I mean you do use these in the dark anyway, so I just didn't care to redo it for this minor issue. You can see a pic of original battery, DigiKey battery side by side with original and with battery removed. OEM battery markers are there but I couldn't find one just like that, wouldn't be surprised if it's some generic or customer battery that was made for Epson/Seiko.


Anyway, hope it helps guys! Good luck! I'm happy to answer any questions since I just repaired mine.
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post #16 of 27 Old 06-27-2020, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expired56k View Post
I just replaced batteries in two pairs of my glasses (got them new from eBay but they sat for too long so batteries wouldn't charge; probably would be the case with many of these glasses since they've been discontinued for a while now). To open the frame you need a tiny torx and phillips (torx is T4 and phillips PH000 or PH00 works, it seems PH00 fits better though; if you have one of these iFixIt kits then you have all you need to open the case). There is one torx holding a nose piece, and two more underneath. There are two phillips screws in the inner side of the frame and two more on each end in the hinge, you must fold the glasses to see them. You must have a plastic spudger or guitar pick to open the case. With all screws removed gently pull around hinge area inward to get it open, then work with a spudger inward towards the nose piece. I got a pair of batteries from a DigiKey link above because eBay ones seemed too shady and I was worried about it being a fire hazard. Anyway, DigiKey batteries did work fine, however they are too thick and I could barely get the cover back on. I were able to close it but it is definitely pushing a bit so there's a slight opening in the cover. It is not too apparent though. The wires are a bit thicker which makes them difficult to route. You have to route them because edge of the board is almost touching the housing and there's probably a millimeter or two of clearance from the battery PCB pads. The pads are very small with little spacing in between and lots of other components around them. PCB doesn't come out of the housing so you have to hold the soldering iron on a 45 degree angle or so (I have a professional temperature controller soldering station with a pencil iron, used a thin needle tip at 350 degrees; solder is lead free. You absolute must have a thin tip in order to be able to solder this, it's incredibly tiny). I did slightly burn the housing trying on my first pair while trying to get through the factory solder (hint: use flux or apply new solder over the factory solder joint to make it melt easily with little effort).


So yeah, you do have to solder in your new battery. You may be able to get a small inline connector and cut old battery wire and attach it to a connector or directly solder old battery wire to new battery wire. I actually wish I did that instead of soldering to original pads as it was a real pain in the butt and I could barely see them even with a magnifying glass lamp. You have to be really careful to not short the wires. I got them soldered properly but as I was trying to position the wire my first attempt resulted in a short but I caught it just in time as battery got really hot. I cleared the short with a plastic spudger and then used some electrical tape to insulate the contacts (physically bending wires in opposite direction helped a lot as well). I would recommend a different battery that is a bit thinner than that from DigiKey, however it did work and charges but with it being too thick you cannot make a perfect repair. So yeah, all in all both of my glasses are working and I'm fairly happy with results. I would be 100% happy if battery thickness was just as OEM. I couldn't find the exact OEM battery specs though. Maybe those eBay ones are the right size but I would never buy a battery from unknown source, just too risky in terms of fire safety.


I've attached some pics, sorry I didn't take one reassembled where you can see the case doesn't fully close (it is very minor though, just a small split at the top above the nosepiece since there are no screws in that area). I mean you do use these in the dark anyway, so I just didn't care to redo it for this minor issue. You can see a pic of original battery, DigiKey battery side by side with original and with battery removed. OEM battery markers are there but I couldn't find one just like that, wouldn't be surprised if it's some generic or customer battery that was made for Epson/Seiko.


Anyway, hope it helps guys! Good luck! I'm happy to answer any questions since I just repaired mine.
Thank you very much for providing such detailed steps. I have to confess I find the whole process intimidating as I have not soldered anything in my life! I find it surprising that Epson designed the glasses’ battery compartment in this way. I will have to find the batteries then see if I can find someone who can install one.

Your post exhibits the best part of AVS Forum, taking the time to provide really helpful, detailed information. Thank you.

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post #17 of 27 Old 06-27-2020, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtoronto View Post
Thank you very much for providing such detailed steps. I have to confess I find the whole process intimidating as I have not soldered anything in my life! I find it surprising that Epson designed the glasses’ battery compartment in this way. I will have to find the batteries then see if I can find someone who can install one.

Your post exhibits the best part of AVS Forum, taking the time to provide really helpful, detailed information. Thank you.

You're welcome! Given my experience with this repair, I think if you get a properly sized battery it would be best to just splice the old battery wires with new battery wires. It will avoid micro soldering and you can do it much more easily (if you have heat-shrink tubing you can probably just get away with twisting the wires together and tighten and insulate with heat-shrink tube). I kind of with I thought of that first before I desoldered the original battery wires from the PCB. It would have been easier if the board can come out of the glasses frame though. If you find a properly fitting battery from a reputable source such as DigiKey, Mouser, Newark, etc. please kindly post a link or item number. If someone has a micrometer it would be neat to measure the original battery but they all likely swelled up by the time replacement is needed so not sure how useful that would be. Regarding Epson design, they clearly designed it with a somewhat limited lifecycle (I think the glasses are actually made/designed by Seiko and just rebranded by Epson; maybe custom made for Epson but they do say Seiko on the label). They could have put an SMD socket and not solder it to the board or better put a rechargeable coin cell (or heck, even disposable). With original MSRP of over $100 per set, they clearly could have done better. I really do not know why they did it this way but clearly servicing was not on their minds, maybe so people go buy a new set (ain't that the truth with our disposable society). Definitely a weird choice for a high end product. However I think my NVidia 3D Vision glasses are likely no different. I haven't used them in a long time since I don't own a 3D Vision monitor anymore. I might take them apart just for the hell of it if I find them in my parts bins.
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@expired56k You're a life saver!Just bought two brand new pairs and were dead on arrival. I'm a controls electrician so soldering will not be an issue. Can you post a picture of the glasses assembled with the new battery? I'm curious to see the split in the casing. Thanks! I ordered four batteries so I can replace the batteries in my current pairs if the batteries give out in those eventually.
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post #19 of 27 Old 07-02-2020, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by therealdjnugz View Post
@expired56k You're a life saver!Just bought two brand new pairs and were dead on arrival. I'm a controls electrician so soldering will not be an issue. Can you post a picture of the glasses assembled with the new battery? I'm curious to see the split in the casing. Thanks! I ordered four batteries so I can replace the batteries in my current pairs if the batteries give out in those eventually.

You're welcome! Here are the pics, from the bottom you can see there's just very subtle separation in the upper inner casing right by the glass. From the top, the case doesn't fully close as it's being help by plastic clips. It's really minor and most folks probably will not notice. I just feel it would be better off with a thinner battery if you're doing it professionally for someone. For personal use I don't feel it is of much concern. If you manage to fit a small inline coupling connector it will likely make any future battery service much simpler. However like you can see, the space inside is very minimal but with a smaller battery it can be done (if you feel it's worth the time and extra effort).
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@expired56k They look great! Barely noticeable. Batteries should be in tomorrow so hoping to get them in Wednesday after work. Unfortunately I couldn't find other batteries with dimensions listed. I'm just going to splice the wires and solder them and heat shrink over the splice. Not enough room in there to crimp. The plastic clips you speak of are just the ones from the casing correct? I just put a new lamp in the projector as well so looking forward to a 3d film with the kids. They're finally old enough to use 3d glasses which is why I got the new pairs. Appreciate the photos!
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I'm going to test the voltage before the repair just to make sure it's the battery and not a funny issue with pairing. When I try charging them the glasses LED is solid green as if it's charged and will pair while connected to the charger so I'm 99% it's the batteries. Luckily the seller on ebay was understanding and gave me a partial refund.
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post #22 of 27 Old 07-07-2020, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by therealdjnugz View Post
@expired56k They look great! Barely noticeable. Batteries should be in tomorrow so hoping to get them in Wednesday after work. Unfortunately I couldn't find other batteries with dimensions listed. I'm just going to splice the wires and solder them and heat shrink over the splice. Not enough room in there to crimp. The plastic clips you speak of are just the ones from the casing correct? I just put a new lamp in the projector as well so looking forward to a 3d film with the kids. They're finally old enough to use 3d glasses which is why I got the new pairs. Appreciate the photos!

Yeah, the clips are all around the edge of the case but it seems in top, there's one to right and above the nose piece but not on the left hence there's more separation there. Screws are only in the corners and inside nose pierce area, the rest just relies on plastic clips. I'd rather have that and battery from a known source than something off eBay. You can probably crimp if you have really tiny crimping terminals. As long as you don't have to solder to the PCB it should be relatively simple and safe to do. I've kind of wanted to have 3D for a while on a giant screen but only got to it recently. It does look awesome (I have a 100" tab tensioned screen with Epson 5040ub projector and Denon AVR-X4400H and 7.1 surround but not height speakers for now; playing 3D BD from Sony UBP-X800; couldn't get 3D from computer but I haven't tried hard enough). Not sure if I'll let kids watch 3D, have to think about that. I suppose if it is a few hours here and there it should be okay.


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I'm going to test the voltage before the repair just to make sure it's the battery and not a funny issue with pairing. When I try charging them the glasses LED is solid green as if it's charged and will pair while connected to the charger so I'm 99% it's the batteries. Luckily the seller on ebay was understanding and gave me a partial refund.

I had same thing when I charge it would pair and show 100% battery, charging light would always go green and not error but as soon as unplugged glasses would shut off. I didn't even bother testing my batteries as given the time they sat in their box, it is almost guaranteed Li-Ion battery would be dead. Please kindly post your pics with heat shrink and spliced wires, I think that's the way to go!
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post #23 of 27 Old 07-07-2020, 10:53 PM
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@expired56k So I DID find 40mAh batteries on Digikey as well. So I ordered those last night hoping they'll be smaller and fit in the casing without issue. Ordered a small electronics pry tool kit as well. I'm hoping they'll both arrive Thursday so I can get it done before the weekend. I'll definitely share pictures when the time comes.

I have an Epson 5025UB with a 100" screen as well, and a 7.1 system with SVS speakers. The projector is 5 years old now but still looks real good. Whenever it finally dies I'm going to finally upgrade to 4k, most likely the Epson 5050. Always been an Epson fan.
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post #24 of 27 Old 07-08-2020, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by therealdjnugz View Post
@expired56k So I DID find 40mAh batteries on Digikey as well. So I ordered those last night hoping they'll be smaller and fit in the casing without issue. Ordered a small electronics pry tool kit as well. I'm hoping they'll both arrive Thursday so I can get it done before the weekend. I'll definitely share pictures when the time comes.

I have an Epson 5025UB with a 100" screen as well, and a 7.1 system with SVS speakers. The projector is 5 years old now but still looks real good. Whenever it finally dies I'm going to finally upgrade to 4k, most likely the Epson 5050. Always been an Epson fan.

Very cool, please share your experience with these batteries and how you install them. I've had Epson's at work but couldn't afford one for home use and I ended up getting a refurb unit which is terrific deal in terms of cost, you get same warranty as new projector AND new lamp. Just can't really beat that. As far as 4K, it looks great for documentaries, kids cartoons which are CGI and gaming. For movies that difference isn't as apparent in my opinion. Interestingly 3D looks almost sharper than normal BD or UHD BD in a few titles I've tried (Avatar, Titanic, Star Wars The Force Awakens, Alita Battle Angel, Edge of Tomorrow). Definitely a worthwhile experience and made movies looks fresh (despite this being old tech and getting abandoned), wasn't so much the case with 4K.
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post #25 of 27 Old 07-09-2020, 09:24 PM
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@expired56k I got the other set of 40Mah batteries in and of course the length of them is not ideal lol. I think I may be able to get in there if I sit it in the casing at an angle.... I'm going to try those first, and if it doesn't work Im going to use the thicker 70Mah batteries with the casing slightly opened. Don't have the soldering iron at home so will take care of that at work tomorrow. I noticed the original battery had some kind of adhesive on it to stick to the board so I plan on using some not so heavy duty double sided tape on them. I don't think I'm going to splice the wires, but solder the new wires to the pads. I'll share more pics when I actually solder it. Wanted to get the glasses open to see which battery would fit better and of course neither are ideal.

I agree, many times 3d films look sharper than their 2d versions. It's a big reason I'm still a fan of the format. Even without much depth to the 3d effect, I still prefer the 3d on some films.
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Epson 5025ub Projector
Pioneer VSX-1123-K Receiver
SVS Prime Towers Front Left/Right
SVS Prime Center
Polk Audio TSI 100 Side/Rear Surrounds
Bic F12 Subwoofer x 3 (next upgrade)
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post #26 of 27 Old Yesterday, 03:10 PM
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@expired56k Got the repairs done today at work. Wasn't too bad. I tried the 40Mah battery first, soldered it on at it wouldn't turn on. So I took a meter to it to test continuity and voltage. I had continuity but no voltage. Was stunned and then realized when I cut the connector off the new battery I cut both wires at the same time.... I then realized I shorted out the battery because of this lol. So I had to take the battery off again and try another. I ended up using the 70Mah batteries and no issue. They turned on right away. Was a little difficult to solder even with the solder vice. I had to find a finer tip to put on the iron. All in all fairly easy. The casing looks just like yours since the battery is a little thicker than the original. Just glad I didn't get hurt when I cut the leads off the lithium battery at the same time. Could have been bad.
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Epson 5025ub Projector
Pioneer VSX-1123-K Receiver
SVS Prime Towers Front Left/Right
SVS Prime Center
Polk Audio TSI 100 Side/Rear Surrounds
Bic F12 Subwoofer x 3 (next upgrade)
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post #27 of 27 Old Yesterday, 08:35 PM
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Hello, thanks all for posting this. Would either of you @therealdjnugz or @expired56k be able to do this for me. I would be happy to pay you for your time, batteries, and shipping. I have 3 glasses that would need this repair. Thank you
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