Yamaha YSP-1600 - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 128 Old 01-13-2016, 06:00 PM
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Yes there are other ways but not with the ability to turn both on at once unless I use a universal remote. then the wife steps in.
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post #32 of 128 Old 01-13-2016, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by HerbieHightower View Post
Yes there are other ways but not with the ability to turn both on at once unless I use a universal remote. then the wife steps in.
Hate to sound like a dunce but I never used arc but my TV is arc compatible.. Am I correct in thinking I only need to connect a Hdmi cable from the YSP 1600 arc to my TV's Arc in to use the sound bar.. Any device I have (hd cable box and bluray dvd) will send the sound out thru the TV's arc then automatically to the sound bar also??
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post #33 of 128 Old 01-13-2016, 08:14 PM
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Yes, that is how ARC works. Also, with the exception of Blu-ray and a few other odd devices most sources (Cable, SAT, OTA, DVD, most streaming) do not have lossless sound. For Bluray the lossless sound formats are converted to DD or DTS with the least amount of compression and the sound quality over lossless is negligible.
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post #34 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
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Hate to sound like a dunce but I never used arc but my TV is arc compatible.. Am I correct in thinking I only need to connect a Hdmi cable from the YSP 1600 arc to my TV's Arc in to use the sound bar.. Any device I have (hd cable box and bluray dvd) will send the sound out thru the TV's arc then automatically to the sound bar also??
Yep, that's exactly how it is supposed to work. A little warning though. ARC can be flaky as cause strange issues like I have . Hopefully yours will work better than mine does. The one thing you will find though is using any HDMI input on your TV bedsides the ARC one will not (at least for me) allow you to see on screen settings changes with the sound-bar, such as volume adjustments. So just let me know if it all works properly for you.
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post #35 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 06:02 AM
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The one thing you will find though is using any HDMI input on your TV bedsides the ARC one will not (at least for me) allow you to see on screen settings changes with the sound-bar, such as volume adjustments. So just let me know if it all works properly for you.
I haven't pulled the trigger on the 1600 yet, want to have all my T's crossed before dumping $500 on a new sound bar(although its looks like the leading candidate, Polk's SB1 Plus is another choice although spending $669 for that then discarding it's wireless sub to use mine is a big points off).
Volume level changes do come up on the YSD-1600 though correct??
Not sure what TV you have but have you checked for software/firmware updates?? I know my PN8500 just received a new software update which may address issues such as that..
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post #36 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 06:13 AM
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I have a Samsung UN55H6350 all updated. If the TV input is set to the HDMI with ARC then the sound-bar does show it's volume and other settings on the screen but if I use an HDMI input for any other device such as a DVD connected to the TV it doesn't show.
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post #37 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
Yes, that is how ARC works. .
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Originally Posted by HerbieHightower View Post
Yep, that's exactly how it is supposed to work. A little warning though. ARC can be flaky as cause strange issues like I have . Hopefully yours will work better than mine does. The one thing you will find though is using any HDMI input on your TV bedsides the ARC one will not (at least for me) allow you to see on screen settings changes with the sound-bar, such as volume adjustments. So just let me know if it all works properly for you.
Well took the plunge and ordered it along with a High-Speed HDMI Cable which supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and "Audio Return" for my ARC connection, both will arrive tomorrow.
Will it necessary to run another HDMI to the YSP-1600's HDMI in, for that matter a optical line also??
PS; Thank you for all your help and knowledge!! It's so very appreciated!!
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post #38 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 10:36 AM
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What I've settled on is this: HDMI out from cable box into HDMI in on the sound-bar. HDMI out (ARC) from the sound-bar to the HDMI input (ARC) on my TV. Optical from my TV to Optical in the sound-bar. A Roku into an empty HDMI in on my TV.
Set both the TV and sound-bar to use ARC so that one remote turns on both. The only problems I have now it having to hit the HDMI button on the sound-bar remote after everything is turned on and if
I hit the setup button on the sound-bar remote the TV switches from watching the Roku back to the TV ARC input. So, no setup options can be changed unless you're on the ARC input. It's hard to explain but when you set yours up if you get it working right please let me know.

One more thing. If I use my Harmony One or Elite it all works like a charm. But.... the wife loves the voice control on the X1 remote so that's what she chooses to use. So I'm open to any solutions....

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post #39 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 01:00 PM
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HDMI splitter or auto switcher won't work combining your Roku and cable box into one input??
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post #40 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 02:10 PM
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I can but it wont fix the problem. With just either one hooked up it still defaults to the ARC connection and that just goes to the TV's ARC. One cable between the sound-bar and TV with nothing to play. To play anything you have to select another HDMI input. It's never the one that it defaults to.
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post #41 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 02:13 PM
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I think that if my TV's ARC was working properly this wouldn't happen. So I'm guessing since my TV is older the new ones might work far better.
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post #42 of 128 Old 01-14-2016, 08:02 PM
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Well hoping the sound bar get delivered early enough for me to it set up tomorrow, working Saturday..
The way I originally figured I would set it up was to leave my HDMI devices (HD Cable box on HDMI 1, BluRay HDMI 2) connected to my TV the way they are then run TV optical out to the sound bar and in the TV's settings set Speaker Select to External Speaker then no matter what device/HDMI (Source) I choose the sound goes through the sound bar.. Yes?? Although I am definitely going to try the ARC setup and see if I have the same issues your having.

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post #43 of 128 Old 01-15-2016, 04:27 AM
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Let me know how it works for you!
One other thing is with that type of setup you might not see the sound-bar settings displayed on the TV screen... but I've been wrong before (and often) LOL.
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post #44 of 128 Old 01-15-2016, 03:09 PM
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It arrived and I did a quick setup but found your right, can only see settings onscreen when connected via ARC, after I made sure all worked and did some quick sound adjustments(boy were they needed lol) I ran the cable hdmi back to the TV and let the optical do the sound and first off I noticed sound was better using optical?? Took less volume levels to achieve same levels then using hdmi? Strange.. BUT Samsung's "AnyNet" does show volume levels onscreen using either ARc or Optical, the photo below is when I adjusted volume in optical, that level of 24 would have easily been in the mid to high 40's?
All in all I am very happy so far, still needs some tweaking but the difference with my sub vs the Samsung's H750 soundbar system alone is huge. Wifi setup was smooth and bluetooth connected easily and I'm actually going to use it (something again the Samsung H750 sucked at, Steaming music sounded lousy with the H750), Pandora, Spotify and MixRadio from my Lumia 1520 sounded great via Bluetooth..
Again when adjusting even bluetooth volume levels it came up on my TV's AnyNet.
DVD sound also came thru with no issues, that's connected to my HDMI 2 on my TV..
I am pretty amazed at how the YSP1600's sound fills the room, I was quite sceptical about the sound projecting touted by Yamaha but the sound really comes at you from all around and I have 2 large open french door openings on 2 walls, older home, so less area to bounce the sound but it still pulls it off somehow.
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post #45 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
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It arrived and I did a quick setup but found your right, can only see settings onscreen when connected via ARC, after I made sure all worked and did some quick sound adjustments(boy were they needed lol) I ran the cable hdmi back to the TV and let the optical do the sound and first off I noticed sound was better using optical?? Took less volume levels to achieve same levels then using hdmi? Strange.. BUT Samsung's "AnyNet" does show volume levels onscreen using either ARc or Optical, the photo below is when I adjusted volume in optical, that level of 24 would have easily been in the mid to high 40's?
All in all I am very happy so far, still needs some tweaking but the difference with my sub vs the Samsung's H750 soundbar system alone is huge. Wifi setup was smooth and bluetooth connected easily and I'm actually going to use it (something again the Samsung H750 sucked at, Steaming music sounded lousy with the H750), Pandora, Spotify and MixRadio from my Lumia 1520 sounded great via Bluetooth..
Again when adjusting even bluetooth volume levels it came up on my TV's AnyNet.
DVD sound also came thru with no issues, that's connected to my HDMI 2 on my TV..
I am pretty amazed at how the YSP1600's sound fills the room, I was quite sceptical about the sound projecting touted by Yamaha but the sound really comes at you from all around and I have 2 large open french door openings on 2 walls, older home, so less area to bounce the sound but it still pulls it off somehow.
Now add a subwoofer and it gets better

Sony 940C*Sony HX909*Samsung K8500*Yamaha 3050*klipsch front RP-280's*rear RF-3's*center RP-450C*Sides RP-280's*front heights RP-140's*overhead 5650cii's*SVS-PB2000x4*emotiva XPA-5*Yamaha YSP-1600 sound bar*Sony HT-CT370 sound bar
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post #46 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 03:24 AM
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Now add a subwoofer and it gets better
I have one, it was the main reason I switched from the Sammy H750, I already had a really good sub but 2 years ago I couldn't find a low profile bar with a sub out connection..
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post #47 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 04:28 AM
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I can but it wont fix the problem. With just either one hooked up it still defaults to the ARC connection and that just goes to the TV's ARC. One cable between the sound-bar and TV with nothing to play. To play anything you have to select another HDMI input. It's never the one that it defaults to.
I know I suggested this but now having it I can't see why a splitter/auto switcher won't work? If you ran your Cable box & Roku's HDMI into the splitter then ran the splitter's HDMI out to the sound bar's in then the Bar's ARC into the TV's ARC(HDMI 3 on mine) then you would have on screen adjustments available and no need to switch sources on the TV. If I hit HDMI on my Ysd-1600 it switches my TV to my ARC source (HDMI 3), which would be nice if I was running that way but using Optical its ok to change settings but I can't hear what's on so I'm pretty much guessing..
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post #48 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 06:22 AM
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Yeah but I don't think there is going to be a perfect solution where my wife can just use the one cable box remote. That was my hope. My Roku and cable box are both always on so when the switch goes to the wrong one she will not be too pleased.We're in our mid sixties and she is extremely technologically challenged. Using my Harmony remote I just program in a simple HDMI command at the end of the startup sequence and all is good but she's hooked on the voice search. At least the way it is now she knows to just grab the sound-bar remote and hit HDMI and that is only once when it's all turned on. If Yamaha had it to always go to the last used input it would be perfect.
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post #49 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 08:17 AM
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Ahhh ok, I get it now.. It is a shame Yamaha didn't include more HDMI inputs AND have a front-panel display like the Samsung H750, it would make it is so much easier seeing what your adjusting and doing from across the room not to mention you wouldn't need to see it on the TV's screen..
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post #50 of 128 Old 01-16-2016, 01:52 PM
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I am pretty amazed at how the YSP1600's sound fills the room, I was quite sceptical about the sound projecting touted by Yamaha but the sound really comes at you from all around and I have 2 large open french door openings on 2 walls, older home, so less area to bounce the sound but it still pulls it off somehow.
I am still on the fence with the YSP line. Was about to test out the 1600 but then was talked into the 2500. Then someone said the geometry of the room wouldn't be great. Rectangular, with the TV facing the width not the length. So perhaps 10' from TV to chairs and a few feet behind. One "wall" is not totally there as it opens up to a dormer so it like a large opening into a smaller space. The other wall is there though!

Bottom line is I'd love to go the DSP route but am concerned about non-optimal geometry, possibly less rich sound from the Soundbar itself, etc... If I were to go this route The ysp-2500 would be safer with the HDMI inputs and setup capability.

After much frustration I went out and bought a Vizio SB4051 which has a wireless sub, two rear speakers attached to sub. As it turns out 5.1 sound is not supported over HDMI ( they have HDMI in, HDMI out (ARC)), something not stated on the box. So that was a bit of a waste. Back to square one. The safest route would seem to just go with a traditional 5.1 Bose type system and I might just do that if only to avoid all the unknowns associated with sound bars.

Are you saying you essentially have a fron and back wall and two large openings on the side walls? How is the sound bouncing off the side?
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post #51 of 128 Old 01-17-2016, 10:51 AM
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I am still on the fence with the YSP line. Was about to test out the 1600 but then was talked into the 2500.
Are you saying you essentially have a fron and back wall and two large openings on the side walls? How is the sound bouncing off the side?
Funny you should mention the YSP-2500, I just ordered it lol..
The sound from the 1600 doesn't really come from behind but it is much more spacious sounding then my old Sammy H750, sitting centered it comes from around you front, center and sides..
I decided to change to the 2500 is for a number of reasons;
1)16 beam drivers vs 8 (double the amplifiers also)
2)7.1 channels vs 5.1
3)Front Panel Display vs the green led lights
4)3 HDMI inputs/1 ARC vs 1 HDMI input/1 ARC
5)mic for auto room customization
6)Bass and treble controls

Plus it also has a full size remote AND I actually found a local dealer willing to sell me the bar without the sub for what I paid for the 1600.. How could I ever turn down that deal?? Only thing missing is MusicCast and honestly I would prob never us that..

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post #52 of 128 Old 01-17-2016, 04:55 PM
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@Pinger

Sounds like you got a really good deal as you can hardwire a sub to it should you feel the need.

Not having MusicCast is a plus in my opinion. That was one of the aspects I didn't like about the 1600. I figured they put a lot of effort into that and didn't place as much effort into things like an automated setup with microphone. All manufacturers seem to be moving towards multi-room audio.

The YSP-2500 was always my first choice. Just unclear whether my room setup makes sense. I don't much care for sound behind me. Just a more immersive one than I currently get with my very old Bose CineMate series I.
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post #53 of 128 Old 01-17-2016, 07:28 PM
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@Pinger

Sounds like you got a really good deal as you can hardwire a sub to it should you feel the need.

Not having MusicCast is a plus in my opinion. That was one of the aspects I didn't like about the 1600. I figured they put a lot of effort into that and didn't place as much effort into things like an automated setup with microphone. All manufacturers seem to be moving towards multi-room audio.

The YSP-2500 was always my first choice. Just unclear whether my room setup makes sense. I don't much care for sound behind me. Just a more immersive one than I currently get with my very old Bose CineMate series I.
I already have a good sub, that's a big reason I originally chose the 1600(sub out connection). I agree with your thoughts on them putting efforts into MusicCast vs adding the mic for setup plus I found other options should have been included to also improve sound quality such as bass and treble controls(every room is different and adjustments are needed depending on furniture, carpeting, ceiling to floor curtains ect..). The 1600 has very good sound qualities but for my listening environment its a tad weak in the mids and I'm thinking with bass/treble controls I can tweak it to my liking.. I just got lucky finding a 2500 where I didn't have to take the whole package sub and all, I wouldn't have forked out another $300-$450 to include a sub I would just discard seeing it wouldn't be nearly as good as my own..
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post #54 of 128 Old 01-18-2016, 03:33 AM
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PLEASE let me know how this works for you. After a month with the 1600 I'm ready to look at the 2500 too. Love the fact of more HDMI inputs!
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post #55 of 128 Old 01-18-2016, 04:59 AM
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Hi!! I´m from Spain (sorry for my english)

I´m very interested in the 1600!! (I like the 2500 too but it´s very expensive for me and I read a cons points that I would like to comment here:

The Subwoofer (2500) is a woofer too (the crossover frecuency is a bit high: >350-400 Hz, meaning you have to put it near the bar to no degrade the global sound. in fact some users listens a variety of sound coming from the Sub... I think the 1600 (with 2 woofer) + Sub added could produce better result in the spectrum of the sound (obviusly the 2500 has more immesirve experience, input, HD sound, etc). What do you think about this???

Thanks!!
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post #56 of 128 Old 01-18-2016, 08:11 PM
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Hi!! I´m from Spain (sorry for my english)

I´m very interested in the 1600!! (I like the 2500 too but it´s very expensive for me and I read a cons points that I would like to comment here:

The Subwoofer (2500) is a woofer too (the crossover frecuency is a bit high: >350-400 Hz, meaning you have to put it near the bar to no degrade the global sound. in fact some users listens a variety of sound coming from the Sub... I think the 1600 (with 2 woofer) + Sub added could produce better result in the spectrum of the sound (obviusly the 2500 has more immesirve experience, input, HD sound, etc). What do you think about this???

Thanks!!
Hi jejatosa, the Samsung H750 SB&sub system I had also crossed over higher then I think a sub should which defeats what a sub should do it shouldn't be directional, its lousy having crosstalk between the bar and sub.. That said I ran some tone tests and you are correct, the ysp-1600 does handle the test tones from 100Hz-400Hz meaning those frequencies would be lost.. Damn, guess the old adage of if it sounds too good to be true... so I cancelled the 2500, I can't roll the dice and HOPE it sounds ok, the 1600 with my Sub sounds good and crosses over at 100Hz like a sub setup should so I'll keep it and not even giving the 2500 bar + its sub a try, i definitely don't want another system like the H750 where the sub handles the lower midrange..
A big THANK YOU jejatosa for the heads up!!!
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post #57 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 05:28 AM
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Just a follow up

I have to add, my research also found that the Sub for the 2500 actually handles duties up to 450Hz or 500Hz!! ugh.. I also was in contact with a Home Theater installer who has setup systems for clients who wants what we have (Single sound bar w/Sub) and asked him about the sub for the 2500 and how it is set to handle such high frequencies AND still be a subwoofer and he said "That's definitely one of the reasons the woofer that comes with it sucks. It only handles frequencies down to about 200. Anything under that is a garbled mess and they should not call it a subwoofer."
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post #58 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 05:43 AM
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Wonder how he feels about the YSP-3300?
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post #59 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 06:38 AM
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I have to add, my research also found that the Sub for the 2500 actually handles duties up to 450Hz or 500Hz!! ugh.. I also was in contact with a Home Theater installer who has setup systems for clients who wants what we have (Single sound bar w/Sub) and asked him about the sub for the 2500 and how it is set to handle such high frequencies AND still be a subwoofer and he said "That's definitely one of the reasons the woofer that comes with it sucks. It only handles frequencies down to about 200. Anything under that is a garbled mess and they should not call it a subwoofer."
That´s the reason that 2500 has subwoofer out... Without other real sub, it´s a super-inmersive soundbar with a separate piece that plays localized low-mid-range sound (but no real ultra-low frecuency)
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post #60 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 08:20 AM
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Wonder how he feels about the YSP-3300?
I think 3300 is in other league... With dual 2,5´ woofers can solve the spectrum problem, and it sub is a 6,5´ cone (vs dual 4,5' in 2500) with YST (tecnology included in yamaha separated subs).

Some inconvenients:

- Price...
- No low profile
- No wireless capability (without propietary adapter)

And I think a simple and inexpensive sub like Yamaha SW030 (8´cone) would be equal/better that the included in 3300. Essentialy you are paying for the soundbar. For those reasons, I like very much the 1600+SW combo.
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