Yamaha YSP-1600 - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jejatosa View Post
I think 3300 is in other league... With dual 2,5´ woofers can solve the spectrum problem, and it sub is a 6,5´ cone (vs dual 4,5' in 2500) with YST (technology included in yamaha separated subs).

Some inconvenients:

- Price...
- No low profile
.
Yep, 2.5" is the max I can go, the 1600 JUST fits plus $1,499 for the ysp-3300 is a bit high..
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post #62 of 128 Old 01-19-2016, 01:15 PM
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At $1500 you might as well get the bad boy 5600 with something like 46 speakers. LOL
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post #63 of 128 Old 01-20-2016, 06:15 PM
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Well I've come full circle.. I came home from work this morning and watched TV and felt as I've felt the past week like something was just missing, a couple days ago I actually started searching for a new sub thinking maybe that was the issue but decided this morning to plug the sub back into my receiver and it sounded great.. Then I pulled out my old Samsung HW-H750 sub & Sound bar(luckily I didn't sell it yet) and did a side by side comparison with the 1600, it was easy since the H-750 connects wirelessly thru AirTrack to my TV and I could just toggle back and forth in listening and to my surprise it was like night and day, the 1600 just sounded thin with no mids or depth compared to the H-750 which had a much more rich full sound.. My sub handled the 1600's at the low end but from 100hz up to I'd say 500-600Hz it was just flat and thin sounding, that's what I've been missing.. Needless to say the YSP-1600 is going back and I'm back to the H-750 for regular TV viewing and for surround sound I pulled my rear surround speakers back out from storage connected them back up to my NAD AV receiver and along with my Paradigm Studio fronts and using the H-750 as my center channel and my main sub handling the low end nicely and my HT surround listening is really nice again.. I'm lucky jejatosa questioned the mid/lower freq with the 2500 or I'd be stuck with it for it was non-returnable once I bought it..
So I guess I'm outta here, good luck to all and thank you for the help and advice..

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post #64 of 128 Old 01-20-2016, 06:51 PM
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Well I've come full circle.. I came home from work this morning and watched TV and felt as I've felt the past week like something was just missing, a couple days ago I actually started searching for a new sub thinking maybe that was the issue but decided this morning to plug the sub back into my receiver and it sounded great.. Then I pulled out my old Samsung HW-H750 sub & Sound bar(luckily I didn't sell it yet) and did a side by side comparison with the 1600, it was easy since the H-750 connects wirelessly thru AirTrack to my TV and I could just toggle back and forth in listening and to my surprise it was like night and day, the 1600 just sounded thin with no mids or depth compared to the H-750 which had a much more rich full sound.. My sub handled the 1600's at the low end but from 100hz up to I'd say 500-600Hz it was just flat and thin sounding, that's what I've been missing.. Needless to say the YSP-1600 is going back and I'm back to the H-750 for regular TV viewing and for surround sound I pulled my rear surround speakers back out from storage connected them back up to my NAD AV receiver and along with my Paradigm Studio fronts and using the H-750 as my center channel and my main sub handling the low end nicely and my HT surround listening is really nice again.. I'm lucky jejatosa questioned the mid/lower freq with the 2500 or I'd be stuck with it for it was non-returnable once I bought it..
So I guess I'm outta here, good luck to all and thank you for the help and advice..
Well, I'm borrowing a 3300 for a few days. See what that sounds like.
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post #65 of 128 Old 01-20-2016, 08:12 PM
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Well, I'm borrowing a 3300 for a few days. See what that sounds like.
Nice.. Have to warn you once you hear the full sound from bottom to top you won't want to go back to just the highs the 1600 gives you lol.. Let us know your thoughts!!
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post #66 of 128 Old 01-20-2016, 08:19 PM
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Will do!
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post #67 of 128 Old 01-21-2016, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinger View Post
Well I've come full circle.. I came home from work this morning and watched TV and felt as I've felt the past week like something was just missing, a couple days ago I actually started searching for a new sub thinking maybe that was the issue but decided this morning to plug the sub back into my receiver and it sounded great.. Then I pulled out my old Samsung HW-H750 sub & Sound bar(luckily I didn't sell it yet) and did a side by side comparison with the 1600, it was easy since the H-750 connects wirelessly thru AirTrack to my TV and I could just toggle back and forth in listening and to my surprise it was like night and day, the 1600 just sounded thin with no mids or depth compared to the H-750 which had a much more rich full sound.. My sub handled the 1600's at the low end but from 100hz up to I'd say 500-600Hz it was just flat and thin sounding, that's what I've been missing.. Needless to say the YSP-1600 is going back and I'm back to the H-750 for regular TV viewing and for surround sound I pulled my rear surround speakers back out from storage connected them back up to my NAD AV receiver and along with my Paradigm Studio fronts and using the H-750 as my center channel and my main sub handling the low end nicely and my HT surround listening is really nice again.. I'm lucky jejatosa questioned the mid/lower freq with the 2500 or I'd be stuck with it for it was non-returnable once I bought it..
So I guess I'm outta here, good luck to all and thank you for the help and advice..
I'd have to agree with this. I just got the 1600 and it is thin sounding with music playback. Movies have a nice entertaining soundstage, and I'm sure with a sub it will sound even better. But the music just doesn't cut it for me. I switched to this after having a Niro 420 that burned out on me. The Niro played music wonderfully and had almost a better virtual surround (8 years old too). I wanted to get a repair or buy a new Niro, but they never responded to my email inquiries so I wonder if it is just some guy in Cali sitting on a bunch of inventory from a company that doesn't exist anymore? I do like the musiccast feature of the 1600, best airplay speaker I've tried (vs cheap ihome and the Wren V5-ap-which sounds MUCH better) in terms of connection simplicity and never dropping.

I just wonder if the 1 1/8 drivers just can't get enough mid range, I thought the two 4" drivers would make up for that...but I can't hear it. I got mine from Amazon, so I should have a decent return opportunity...just hate doing that.

Might just have to dig deep and go with the Paradigm Soundscape. It was on sale this holiday season for like $1,100. But probably not.

Any other suggestions in the 4-600 range?
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post #68 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 04:34 AM
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Nice.. Have to warn you once you hear the full sound from bottom to top you won't want to go back to just the highs the 1600 gives you lol.. Let us know your thoughts!!
Well, you're right. I was very surprised by the 3300. It has way more "sound" and I'm not talking about loudness. Fuller sound and richer sound and the added HDMI inputs solved my other issues. So... now I'm on the hunt for a decent price. The addition of a microphone to adjust it will only make it better. The feature settings in the 3300 put the 1600 to shame.
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post #69 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 04:44 AM
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Well, you're right. I was very surprised by the 3300. It has way more "sound" and I'm not talking about loudness. Fuller sound and richer sound and the added HDMI inputs solved my other issues. So... now I'm on the hunt for a decent price. The addition of a microphone to adjust it will only make it better. The feature settings in the 3300 put the 1600 to shame.
It's a MUCH fuller sound, even with a sub the 1600 lacks the Mids and substance.. Polk is releasing a nice new version of they're SB-1(the new version will be the SB-1Plus).. Might be worth a look.
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post #70 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 05:50 AM
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It's a MUCH fuller sound, even with a sub the 1600 lacks the Mids and substance.. Polk is releasing a nice new version of they're SB-1(the new version will be the SB-1Plus).. Might be worth a look.
I have a Denon AVR-X2200W with Boston Acoustics Lynnfield VR960 fronts, Polk Audio RTi4 center, Polk Audio CSi3 surrounds and a 12" Outlaw LFM-1EX sub for most of my listening but when the wife just wants to watch some TV she doesn't like all the room full of sound. So... the soundbar search. I think at this point instead of searching any more for the perfect sound from a bar I'm just going to settle on the 3300 and not keep trying to reach the pinnacle of awesomeness from a simple bar. I'll never find it until tech gets better. I am really happy that this kind of tech is getting more attention though. Someday it will be very good.

You can chase the unicorn in this hobby until you're broke very easily!
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post #71 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 07:27 AM
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but when the wife just wants to watch some TV she doesn't like all the room full of sound. So... the soundbar search.
You can chase the unicorn in this hobby until you're broke very easily! [/FONT]
Hahaha That's the reason I have a sound bar, simple is her preference but since I do watch TV with her I hoped to get the best sounding bar I could.. When alone or watching a movie at night with her then I go with my NAD/Paradigm Studios surround..
I like your choice of Receiver, are you liking it?? Does it do well with HT? I'm mostly a HT listener now where 10 years ago when I bought my NAD music was its strong point and HT not so much, thru the years though I've become more of a HT listener and thinking of upgrading my receiever..
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post #72 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 08:06 AM
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I really like the receiver! The improved Audyssey is pretty unbelievable. Coming from a 3808ci I can really tell the difference. You wouldn't think so but I do. I borked a couple of the HDMI ports and cant find that digital board to replace anywhere. When I find one, I'll fix it back up and find it a new home.
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post #73 of 128 Old 01-22-2016, 06:58 PM
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I really like the receiver! The improved Audyssey is pretty unbelievable. Coming from a 3808ci I can really tell the difference. You wouldn't think so but I do. I borked a couple of the HDMI ports and cant find that digital board to replace anywhere. When I find one, I'll fix it back up and find it a new home.
Nice, do you feel your Denon is on the bright, neutral or warm side?? I was actually thinking of picking up the AVR-X1200W..
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post #74 of 128 Old 01-23-2016, 08:05 AM
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It's not a real bright one but the sound is so clean and smooth at any volume. Every sound is crystal clear. My 3808ci was a fantastic AVR too but I've even more happy with the new one. Everything just seems better - setup, menus, options and for some reason the Audyssey just seems better even though I believe it's the same version. Way more HDMI inputs is great.
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post #75 of 128 Old 01-23-2016, 09:19 AM
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It's not a real bright one but the sound is so clean and smooth at any volume. Every sound is crystal clear. My 3808ci was a fantastic AVR too but I've even more happy with the new one. Everything just seems better - setup, menus, options and for some reason the Audyssey just seems better even though I believe it's the same version. Way more HDMI inputs is great.
Any pesky handshake issues with it and your Samsung TV?? That was another issue I didn't like with the 1600, the times I did go ARC vs optical, whenever I turned on the TV & YSP-1600 99% of the time I'd have to go to another source on the TV then back to HDMI ARC to get sound, this wasn't exclusive to the 1600, there have been times just going from watching something thru Smart TV(Netflix, Amazon Prime, HBO GO) that when going back to our Cable box's HDMI(1) I will have to switch to a different source then back to get sound,less frequent then the 1600 but it did/does do it sporadically...
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post #76 of 128 Old 01-23-2016, 01:27 PM
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No, everything seems to work well. It does have that issue with it always starting up on "TV" and I need it to startup on "HDMI1" where my cable box is. I left a support mail to Yamaha and ask them if there is any way to make it default to HDMI1. Haven't heard back though.
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post #77 of 128 Old 01-24-2016, 04:33 AM
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What TV do you have?? There's no other way to setup the sound bar without using hdmi-arc??
I'm sure the high end is good with the YSP 1600 but how are the mids??


That's nice to know, I was worried quality would lost if I went straight optical..
Who here has been using the HT Controller (WLAN) app to setup / use their YSP1600?
What is your feedback on the app?
I know there is a MusicCast app on top of this (with the quick link between the two) but I'm after real world experiences, not my 'guesses' garnered from the demo modes...
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post #78 of 128 Old 01-25-2016, 01:38 AM
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Hi!!

I read (in 1400 review) that if you put a SW, woofers of YSP-1400 handles >150 Hz (normaly without SUB, it distorts in the range 50-80Hz), and subwoofer handles <150Hz. This is a great because avoid 1400 to distort, alowing you increase the bass level.

Anyone (with 1600+SW combo) can confirm me if the sub conection enables a crossover too??

Thanks!
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post #79 of 128 Old 01-25-2016, 07:20 PM
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Who here has been using the HT Controller (WLAN) app to setup / use their YSP1600?
What is your feedback on the app?
I know there is a MusicCast app on top of this (with the quick link between the two) but I'm after real world experiences, not my 'guesses' garnered from the demo modes...
Never used the app when I had the 1600..

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Hi!!

I read (in 1400 review) that if you put a SW, woofers of YSP-1400 handles >150 Hz (normaly without SUB, it distorts in the range 50-80Hz), and subwoofer handles <150Hz. This is a great because avoid 1400 to distort, alowing you increase the bass level.

Anyone (with 1600+SW combo) can confirm me if the sub conection enables a crossover too??

Thanks!
Had my sub crossover set at 100Hz when I had the 1600, but honestly never heard any distortion with it, even when I did the test tone tests
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post #80 of 128 Old 08-24-2016, 08:02 PM
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Hi~

I had a problem with chromecast plug to ysp1600.
I plug chromcast gen1 to ysp1600 HDMI input, and take HDMI output to my TV without ARC support, got no audio/video as ysp1600 osd said.
But ysp1600 setup osd is usable and resolution of ysp1600 output stay in 480P.
Chromecast is working and android can link it correctly.

I guess there is a hdcp problem between chromecast and ysp1600.
Ask yamaha europe but they had no experience with chromecast

Does anyone plug chromecast to ysp1600 and success??

skyforce
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post #81 of 128 Old 10-10-2016, 02:08 PM
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newbie Question with ysp 1600: simplicity or quality sound

Hi. Good thread. My YSP-1600 arrived this week. I'll hook it up this weekend. I bought the soundbar because it had HDMI and optical inputs, ARC, and sub out. I also looked at the Sonos PlayBar -- I have alot of Sonos components around the house already -- but didn't like the idea of using their (expensive) subwoofer, when I have a couple decent extra subwoofers in storage. This goes in the living room to make things simpler for the wife. Current set up is a Yamaha RX-V373 set up in 5.1 with Sony FS6000 L&R channel, Sony SS-CN5000 center channel, and Sony SS-B1000 rear speakers, and a Polk Audio PSW10 powered subwoofer . TV is a non-networked 46" Sharp with a nice screen, 3xHDMI, including ARC. Inputs include a Charter X-finity cable box, a networked Sony BD player, HTPC, and Sonos Connect. The AVR currently does all the switching -- everything connects to it via HDMI, except the Sonos Connect device which is digital coax. One HDMI cable (ARC) runs from the AVR to the Sharp TV. I mainly use it for listening to music on Sonos and watching movies from the HTPC. The wife uses it mainly to watch TV from the Cable Box or Netflix off of the Sony BD player. The wife hates it because she says it's so complicated to watch tv. What she wants is just one remote to turn on the TV, adjust the volume, and change channels.

I'm trying to figure out if I should optimize sound quality or simplicity?

Option 1: Simplicity: I figure the simplest set up is to use the AVR only for Sonos. The sound bar would handle everything else. I'd connect the Cable Box, BD Player, and HTPC to the three HDMI inputs on the TV, and output the TV sound to the soundbar via optical cable. This seems to be how Sonos wants you to do it. I realize from the posts above that I'd need to use the ARC input on the TV to connect the soundbar for the initial set up. I also realize from this forum and others that my TV will not feed 5.1 sound to the Soundbar so I'd sacrifice some of the effects when watching movies. I have a spare PSW10 lying around so I'd have two subwoofers in the living room. (Which is fine, I only have to hide them from the wife.) I figure if I go with the option I can retire the center channel speaker as well, since I won't really need that for music. (That frees up space on the TV stand for the sound bar.)

Option 2: Sound Quality: I figure the best quality sound (i.e. capturing 5.1 Dolby or DTS encoded sound) would be a different set up: I'd connect the Cable Box to the HDMI input on the Soundbar, and then connect the soundbar via ARC HDMI-1 to the TV. The soundbar would only service the Cable Box. I'd leave the BD player, HTPC, and Sonos connected as they now are to the AVR. I'd run the HDMI out (ARC) from the AVR to the TV, using one HDMI-2 input on the TV (non ARC) for video. That way for TV from the cable box and for movies and Netflix from the BD Player, and for movies from the HTPC, I'd have full 5.1 encoded sound, played over the AVR and 5.1 speaker system, or over the soundbar. I'd enable CEC for the TV and soundbar, and disable it for the AVR and BD Player. The Cable Box is pretty much always on. Hopefully the TV operation would be as simple as option 1, a one remote deal. Watching movies would require switching inputs on the TV and the AVR, but usually I'm around for that. In this scenario I still connect the spare subwoofer to the soundbar, and keep the center channel speaker hooked up to the AVR.

Any thoughts or recommendations? As I write this one issue comes to mind: If I'm watching movies from the HTPC or BD Player, I guess I'd have to turn off the soundbar or it else I'd have two sound sources -- the soundbar and AVR? Maybe with synch issues?
Is there a better way to set this up? Is the difference in sound quality for TV and movies between Option 1 and Option 2 negligeable? I'd like to avoid using an HDMI switch as it's another complication for the wife...

Thanks for all the advice in the posts above and for any thing else you can recommend.
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post #82 of 128 Old 10-11-2016, 10:32 AM
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You seem to be taking some big steps backwards to solve your problem. I would return the sound bar. For sound quality the system you currently have unless not set up or placed properly is significantly better than any sound bar. It sounds like the biggest problem is ease of use. I think your money would be better spent on a good universal remote system and an optical cable to make your current superior sounding system easier to use.

I mentioned optical cable because if you are using the TVs antenna tuner or built in apps you want to use an optical cable from the TV instead of ARC. If you are not using the TVs tuner or apps the optical cable would not be needed. Either way for good control of the system you want to turn off ARC. ARC enables CEC (consumer electronic control) which will conflict with the universal remote. CEC is called different things by different by different manufacturers. You want to turn it off on all your devices. For your system they are called.

Sony Blu-ray - Bravia Sync
Sharp -Aquos Link
?Charter Xfinity - Comcast has Xfinity and Charter is a different service so I am not sure which you have. Not all cable boxes use CEC but turn off anything that says HDMI control or HDMI CEC.

Buy a good universal remote and set it up so it is easy to use and intuitive for your family, NOT YOU. Keep it simple, they don't need every option every one of your devices has to be available to them on the remote. Basic functions only. KISS method. I do this for a living and I find most enthusiasts have a good understanding of their system but their families often don't. If you say you just need to hit the input button, you lost them. They would rather watch the TV in the kitchen or bedroom then have multiple remotes or button presses for whatever they want to watch. They want super simple. There should be a TV, DVD, computer, Sonos button, etc. When they press that button every thing will switch automatically for what they want to do. The Logitech Harmony remotes are very popular. Even if you keep the sound bar the universal remote will simplify your system.
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post #83 of 128 Old 10-12-2016, 11:44 AM
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You seem to be taking some big steps backwards to solve your problem. I would return the sound bar. For sound quality the system you currently have unless not set up or placed properly is significantly better than any sound bar. It sounds like the biggest problem is ease of use. I think your money would be better spent on a good universal remote system and an optical cable to make your current superior sounding system easier to use.

I mentioned optical cable because if you are using the TVs antenna tuner or built in apps you want to use an optical cable from the TV instead of ARC. If you are not using the TVs tuner or apps the optical cable would not be needed. Either way for good control of the system you want to turn off ARC. ARC enables CEC (consumer electronic control) which will conflict with the universal remote. CEC is called different things by different by different manufacturers. You want to turn it off on all your devices. For your system they are called.

Sony Blu-ray - Bravia Sync
Sharp -Aquos Link
?Charter Xfinity - Comcast has Xfinity and Charter is a different service so I am not sure which you have. Not all cable boxes use CEC but turn off anything that says HDMI control or HDMI CEC.

Buy a good universal remote and set it up so it is easy to use and intuitive for your family, NOT YOU. Keep it simple, they don't need every option every one of your devices has to be available to them on the remote. Basic functions only. KISS method. I do this for a living and I find most enthusiasts have a good understanding of their system but their families often don't. If you say you just need to hit the input button, you lost them. They would rather watch the TV in the kitchen or bedroom then have multiple remotes or button presses for whatever they want to watch. They want super simple. There should be a TV, DVD, computer, Sonos button, etc. When they press that button every thing will switch automatically for what they want to do. The Logitech Harmony remotes are very popular. Even if you keep the sound bar the universal remote will simplify your system.
Thanks for the reply ellebob. I have Comcast Xfinity service here in virginia. The Charter service (spectrum, i think) is at the beach house in north carolina. I've tried a half dozen logitech harmony universal remotes and results have been so so. Sometimes they manage to boot up all my devices and select the right inputs, sometimes they don't. Sometimes holding down the help button "fixes" the problem, sometimes it doesn/t. If it were just the house in virginia i'd probably not worry about it, but i also have a problem at my beach house in north carolina where year after year the summer renters complain that the electronics are too complicated. I'll hook up the YSP-1600 this weekend, try the various configurations, play with the CEC settings, and maybe reprogram one of the old logitech remotes, and see what sticks to the wall. Thanks.
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post #84 of 128 Old 10-13-2016, 05:16 AM
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For any universal remote to work well CEC needs to be off or they will conflict. If using a Harmony you want to make sure you have the discrete IR codes for your devices. That will add a lot of reliability. A discrete code is a code that does a given function. Like an input HDMI 3 code instead of hitting an input button code a number of times until you get to HDMI 3. Many manufacturers make these codes available to dealers. Harmony has many in their database of codes but they might not be associated with your exact models.

In my career I program a lot of remote/control systems and Harmony remotes are definitely not my favorite. But, there are not a lot of DIY options or ones as easy to set up as a Harmony.bIf you don't mind putting in more time for a learning curve there are certainly better remotes which have a lot more flexibility and customization. Many of the pro remotes installers use the remote companies do not allow the programming software to be given to the end user. URC (Universal Remote Control) is an exception for their Complete Control line. URC will not give an end user the software but they do allow dealers to give it to the user at their discretion. So you have to buy it from a dealer willing to give you the software. Surf Remote Control is an online company that sells them and gives you the software.
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post #85 of 128 Old 10-14-2016, 01:45 PM
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Thanks for the advice ellebob. I went ahead and read up on the URC remotes in the thread on this site, and also went ahead and ordered an MX-780 from Surf. It'll take a week to get here from California. The main thing is to get rid of all the remotes. Especially the cable box remotes, which I have never been able to get rid of at the beach house. So I'll take all your advice and kill the CEC and test it on the home front before deploying at the beach house. I am a little bit leery about expensive remotes at the beach house in view of the way renters treat stuff, but I reckon that's just a cost of doing business. Looking forward to setting up the sound bar this weekend, which is after all what this thread is all about. I kind of like the idea of being able to turn on the TV, kill the sound, and listen to music or radio, something I can't do now with the AV set up. I expect to be able to do that after I add in the sound bar. Thanks again.
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post #86 of 128 Old 10-16-2016, 12:26 PM
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OK, I got my YSB-1600 soundbar installed this weekend. I really like it. I have it connected to a powered Polk Audio PSW10 subwoofer, and the sound is excellent. It's fully dedicated to my XFinity Cable Box/TV, which is also connected to my 3.1 AV receiver via optical; when I switch back and forth and compare the quality of sound between the two, well, I can tell the sound is different, but it's hard to say the YSB-1600 is noticeably inferior. Clear Voice is very good. Maybe I'd notice more of a difference in sound quality if I was comparing music or movies...What my wife really likes, and the main reason I wanted to test a sound bar, is the system is now greatly simplified. Just one remote control: She can turn on and control the XFinity Cable Box, the Sharp TV, and the YSB-1600 soundbar with one remote (the voice controlled XFinity XR11, which is pretty neat). So definitely a win. Highly recommended for major simplification of a complex system, without significant sound quality loss (at least for TV). I'm still using my 3.1 (soon to be 5.1) AVR for Sonos, Blue Ray Player, and HTPC.

A few adidtional thoughts/issues:

Despite the excellent advice from ellebob, I've enabled CEC/HDMI Control on my TV and soundbar. The HDMI control is working great as noted above -- it allows me to use just one remote (the Xfinity XR11 voice remote). During the installation I noticed that the ARC (audio return channel) from the tv to soundbar won't work if both HDMI (ARC) and optical connections are used to the TV. ARC worked fine after I 86'ed the optical connection.

The soundbar is connected to my router via wired ethernet connection. It immediately identified an available firmware update -- from 2.19 to 2.39 -- and updated itself over the network. All good but it took a really long time. Probably only 15 minutes, but it seemed like forever. I thought maybe it was broken, or failed update, but it turned out fine.

I noticed that external powered subwoofer stayed on standby when watching a TV program. I switched it from "auto" to "on" and it made a difference when the bass kicked in. I noticed a similar problem with a Vizio soundbar. Maybe the signal from the soundbars is not enough to titillate the subwoofer. No issues so far with leaving my powered subwoofers always on.

During installation the YSP-1600 seemed to always default to the TV input (versus HDMI). This was a pain since one of my main objectives was a one remote control solution. I had started out with the Xfinity cable box connected to HDMI port of soundbar (figuring this would give the best quality sound). But having to select HDMI on the YSP-1600 every time I turned the system on was a non-starter. I ended up connecting the Xfinity Cable Box directly to the TV via HDMI, and capturing sound back from the TV via ARC. That worked great -- single remote control -- and I noticed no major loss of sound quality. I then connected my BD player to HDMI input on soundbar (for netflix). But I was back to the original remote control problem: I had to use a second (the YSP-1600) remote to switch between TV and HDMI inputs on soundbar. So I opted to not use the HDMI input on the soundbar at all in order to go with just one remote control.

Mounting the YSP-1600 on my wall mounted tv bracket was difficult. the keyhole slots on the YSP-1600 mounting brackets are a pain. The soundbar is heavy -- specs say it's 10 lbs but seems like more. It was also hard to balance, the brackets on the back of the YSP-1600 are not centered I wanted to mount the soundbar above the TV. I had to jerry rig extra screws on the vertical tv bracket to keep the soundbar bracket from listing. The sound bar is mounted about 4" above the TV. It's kind of ugly - you can see cables and mounting bracket. The manual says the YSP-1600 is not magnetically shielded and needs to be mounted at least 2" above or below the screen. I guess it will look better when I get around to lowering it.

I tried the two apps that are available for the YSP 1600. They are disappointing. The HT Control (WLAN) app doesn't work for me at all -- it shows "Disconnected."
The MusicCast app sounds good playing music (I don't really need it because I have Sonos all over the house), but there is no way in the app to switch the YSP-1600 from MusicCast ("net" input) back to TV. I had to do that manually. So I don't think I'll be using either app at all.

I may eventually follow ellebob's advice and program a universal remote and kill all the CEC/HDMI controls on my various devices. I have one on order from Surf Remote. But for now I'm just enjoying my soundbar. And most importantly the wife loves the newfound simplicity for watching TV.

My set up:
YSP-1600 Soundbar + Polk Audio PSW10 powered subwoofer
Sharp LC-50LB370U TV (no network capability)
XFinity Cable Box XG1-A
Xfinity XR 11 Remote
Yamaha RX-V373 AV Receiver (no network capability)
AVR Speakers: Sony Front SS FS6000 Front Left and Right; Sony SS CN 5000 Center; Sony SS B1000 Surround Left and Right; Dayton Sub1200 Subwoofer
Sony BDP-S1200 Blue Ray Disc player (networked)
Sonos Connect
DIY HTPC
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post #87 of 128 Old 10-16-2016, 12:35 PM
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Update: For the fun of it, i tried the MusicCast app again. I take back my negative comment above. If you scroll down there is a button you can tap to return the YSP-1600 back to the TV input. And the music sounds pretty nice. Lots of bass. I only have one device, so I have no idea if it syncs well with other devices around the home, but the soundbar sounds really great playing Dave Brubeck's "Take 5" off my phone. This may become my go-to app for quick music!
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post #88 of 128 Old 10-16-2016, 04:32 PM
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If you just have a TV, Cable box and sound bar ARC/CEC usually works fine. It is when you start having other devices and need input switching is typically where CEC problems start.

I like both MusicCast and Sonos. Each has it pros and cons. I just did a summary of each in this thread for those deciding between the two.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post47351969
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post #89 of 128 Old 10-17-2016, 07:22 AM
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Thanks ellebob. I'll get around this week to setting up my Sirius XM, Spotify, and Rhapsody accounts on my YSP-1600/MusicCast set ups and see how it goes. For now the sound is great (the Living Room in my house in VA is pretty small), and what makes it better than my Sonos in the same room is I can just boot it up from my phone while I'm drinking my coffee in the morning or my beer in the evening. (The Sonos device is a Connect which means I have to manually turn on the amplifier... Guess that qualifies me as lazy...)

I guess to really compare the MusicCast to Sonos I'd need multiple devices. At the beach house I love playing one tune simultaneously in multiple "zones" party-style (by the pool, by the pool table, up on the decks), or bringing the same tune with me as i move around the house. If MusicCast can do that, and if it's idiot proof like Sonos, it could be a real contender. I have alot of pre-MusicCast networked Yamaha equipment (AVR RX-V573 and RX-V673); not sure if I can update them with firmware or add on a device to make them MusicCast capable. What made me opt for the YSP-1600 as a test soundbar -- as opposed to the Sonos PlayBar -- was the subwoofer out port. I could see dropping $600+ for the PlayBar, but then having to drop another $600+ for the Sonos subwoofer just made no sense, especially when I already have plenty of powered subwoofers around the house(s). So the MusicCast is really a bonus.

My universal remote from Surf Remote should arrive in a week or so. I ordered the MX-780.

Here's a real newbie question for you: When I get around to programming the MX-780 remote, I'll have two Yamaha devices to program, the YSP-1600 soundbar and the RX-V373 AVR. My newbie understanding is that I'll program a device code into the Remote. So far device codes seem to be brand specific, i.e. 30176 for Yamaha (on my Xfinity remote). Obviously if I want to just watch TV I'll want to turn on the TV and Yamaha soundbar, not the Yamaha AV Receiver. And conversely if I want to watch a movie, I'll want to turn on the TV, Sony BD Player, and the Yamaha AV Reciever, not the soundbar. Will the Universal Remote be able to distinguish between the two Yamaha devices?

Thanks again for all your advice and replies.
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post #90 of 128 Old 10-17-2016, 08:18 AM
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I am not sure if the sound bar and receiver use the same codes. I don't think so but I am not sure. Anyway, if they do Yamaha has an alternate set of codes built into every receiver. You just go into the advanced menu of the receiver and change it from remote ID from ID1 to ID2. If they do use the same code and you might have to put in the hex codes manually for the remote, PM and I'll give you the instructions. I don't think URC has many ID2 codes in its database. Most dealers would never use them and just use a base station with individual flashers for each device.

Also with URC you will likely have multiple IR code sets for your receiver. There are a lot of functions you can control with Yamaha that is not available on the factory remote. Yamaha makes these codes available to dealers and has a special site for dealers to download these codes. Many are already in the URC database but might not be under your exact model. Do plan on spending some time learning the software for the MX-780. It is no where near as simple as a Harmony but a lot more flexible and customizable once you know it.
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