Samsung HW-MS650 Sound+ Soundbar Review - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 145 Old 05-24-2017, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tearfalls View Post
I noticed this problem too last week but with a complete different setup. I'm using the Plex app on my XBOX ONE and my sound system is Harman Kardon BDS. At last I figured out that it is actually a recent PLEX update that caused this problem. Basically if the server is transcoding anything into AC3 format or the original sound track itself is AC3, then this proplem will occur as if there is a dynamic range compression that cannot be turned off. I solved this problem by modifying the profile file and force PLEX to transcode the sound into AAC format and everything sounds fine.
Thanks a ton in helping me figure this out. My issue is not this soundbar, it's definitely Plex transcoding causing the excessive dynamic range compression. Once I force streaming in Plex and select the DTS audio track, it sounds perfect because no transcoding is happening. I'll take a look and find the option to force transcoding into AAC format.
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post #32 of 145 Old 06-02-2017, 08:50 AM
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The SPL capabilities of this soundbar leaves a whole lot to be desired. It's going back. I have listened to many and this one is for a small area at best.

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post #33 of 145 Old 06-02-2017, 02:43 PM
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If you need SPL, go big or go home. Sound bars or speakers to play louder need bigger speaker drivers. A 2.0 or 2.1 system would be better if you need more volume. If a sound bar fits your application then look for ones with larger drivers like 4" or greater and has a decent sub or can use a separate sub. Small speakers can only do so much.
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post #34 of 145 Old 06-04-2017, 07:30 AM
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Does anyone know the specs for the forthcoming sub that will be compatible with this soundbar? I'm really on the fence about purchasing this soundbar and knowing what the quality of the sub will be could push me one way or the other.
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post #35 of 145 Old 06-09-2017, 03:52 PM
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Having issues with this soundbar which I just picked up today.

I swear when I first set it up, the little LED on the left front would be green when it was on. It no longer ever lights up no matter what the power status of the sound bar is. The app has an option in it for "Front LED On/Off" however when I select it it just says this unit has no front LED so I can't change anything. I am unsure if the power LED problem started occurring after I told it to do a firmware update or some time after.

Other issue is when using the HDMI IN with my HTPC it seems to often blank out for several seconds and then pick up the connection again. There isn't any rhyme or reason why it is doing this. I have already tried different cables both between the TV and sound bar and between my PC and the sound bar but no dice. It seems like it is switching randomly between 24P and 60P or something when this happens.

Suspect HDMI CEC however I need this feature because I want/need to use ARC. Other weird thing is the TV remote does control the sound bar volume via CEC but the volume display on the TV does not change to reflect the sound bar volume like how CEC volume control always has worked with other devices like my previous receiver. It just kind of gets stuck (the on screen display). I swear this worked when I first set the thing up too.

I think the only thing I can do is exchange it (PIA), test everything thoroughly before hooking it up to wifi so it doesn't have a chance to do an update, then update it... and see if it all goes wrong again. I see no way to factory reset it or roll back the update to test it without generarting return waste. I am not even going to bother with samsung support because I am 100% positive I have tried everything and don't think they know anything anyway.
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post #36 of 145 Old 06-10-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BinaryJay View Post
Having issues with this soundbar which I just picked up today.

I swear when I first set it up, the little LED on the left front would be green when it was on. It no longer ever lights up no matter what the power status of the sound bar is. The app has an option in it for "Front LED On/Off" however when I select it it just says this unit has no front LED so I can't change anything. I am unsure if the power LED problem started occurring after I told it to do a firmware update or some time after.

Other issue is when using the HDMI IN with my HTPC it seems to often blank out for several seconds and then pick up the connection again. There isn't any rhyme or reason why it is doing this. I have already tried different cables both between the TV and sound bar and between my PC and the sound bar but no dice. It seems like it is switching randomly between 24P and 60P or something when this happens.

Suspect HDMI CEC however I need this feature because I want/need to use ARC. Other weird thing is the TV remote does control the sound bar volume via CEC but the volume display on the TV does not change to reflect the sound bar volume like how CEC volume control always has worked with other devices like my previous receiver. It just kind of gets stuck (the on screen display). I swear this worked when I first set the thing up too.

I think the only thing I can do is exchange it (PIA), test everything thoroughly before hooking it up to wifi so it doesn't have a chance to do an update, then update it... and see if it all goes wrong again. I see no way to factory reset it or roll back the update to test it without generarting return waste. I am not even going to bother with samsung support because I am 100% positive I have tried everything and don't think they know anything anyway.
The only LED is on the right side which is blue when bluetooth is on. I've never seen any green LED on the left side, I don't think that's even one.
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post #37 of 145 Old 06-10-2017, 03:10 PM
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Asking this probably dumb question again.

Trying to figure out if the ARC is not working right or I'm expecting too much.

My set-up:

Have a 2015 Samsung with smart connect.

Direct TV connected to HDMI1.
Apple TV connected to HDMI2.
Blu Ray to HDMI3.
Have HDMI ARC smart connect port connected to the ARC on the soundbar.

If things are working correctly, when I switch HDMI inputs on the TV, I shouldn't have to switch anything on the soundbar, right?

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Via optical I have no input switching issues, but I swear some things sound better when connected via HMDI.

Thanks. Obviously not an expert on these matters.
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post #38 of 145 Old 06-10-2017, 05:01 PM
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I exchanged mine today due to all the random signal dropouts. The new one does the same. Figured out it only happens when using ARC with my TV (even when using the HDMI input amazingly). Not ready to replace TV for this and don't want to rely on optical.

So it's going back sadly even though I got a great deal on it and it sounded good.

Now reluctantly looking at SJ9 even though I can really live without Atmos. And it will cost me twice as much...

SJ9 worth 650 USD?
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post #39 of 145 Old 06-10-2017, 08:33 PM
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There is a reason why on many systems installers often turn off ARC/CEC and use optical or if the sound bar has multiple HDMI input then plug all the devices into it instead of the TV. Then use a decent universal remote to control the system.

Why the reluctance on optical? It has the same sound quality as ARC, since ARC can not get the lossless formats Dolby True HD or DTS mater Audio. ARC and optical gets the same signal, except ARC can get Dolby Digital Plus for Atmos which is a compressed format. But, if you don't have Atmos, ARC is not needed. ARC does have on screen volume which you won't get with optical. My guess is the SJ9 will have similar problems. It is a common issue with ARC because under HDMI standards to use ARC it must turn on CEC which is what causes problems with all the switching.

Different manufactures and different models of the same manufacturer often implement the CEC differently. Whenever you uses ARC/CEC it is a crap shoot on whether it will work in the system. The more devices you have connected the less likely it will work as expected. You might spend a lot of time swapping equipment to find a combination that works or you may never find one. YMMV. Personally, I would get whichever sound bar sounds best for your budget and situation and connect it whichever way is most reliable.
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post #40 of 145 Old 06-11-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
There is a reason why on many systems installers often turn off ARC/CEC and use optical or if the sound bar has multiple HDMI input then plug all the devices into it instead of the TV. Then use a decent universal remote to control the system.

Why the reluctance on optical? It has the same sound quality as ARC, since ARC can not get the lossless formats Dolby True HD or DTS mater Audio. ARC and optical gets the same signal, except ARC can get Dolby Digital Plus for Atmos which is a compressed format. But, if you don't have Atmos, ARC is not needed. ARC does have on screen volume which you won't get with optical. My guess is the SJ9 will have similar problems. It is a common issue with ARC because under HDMI standards to use ARC it must turn on CEC which is what causes problems with all the switching.

Different manufactures and different models of the same manufacturer often implement the CEC differently. Whenever you uses ARC/CEC it is a crap shoot on whether it will work in the system. The more devices you have connected the less likely it will work as expected. You might spend a lot of time swapping equipment to find a combination that works or you may never find one. YMMV. Personally, I would get whichever sound bar sounds best for your budget and situation and connect it whichever way is most reliable.
I have all of my cables passing through the wall and it is already jam packed I do not want to run any more cables through there than I absolutely need to, hence ARC, I want it to work.

I am going to pick up a Sony HT-NT5 today, I should be able to get it for $550 CAD (~400 USD) if the store will accept my price beat request. Assuming it plays nice on ARC other bonuses would be the Chromecast and 3 HDMI inputs which will further lessen my wires in the wall burden. I am anticipating missing the center channel from the Samsung. I think my experience with this Samsung and the non-support I received when reaching out to them for simple information about how to just factory reset the thing (seriously, the guy started his instructions to me by telling me to do something to the wireless subwoofer!!!) has turned me off on Samsung at least for this stuff.

The NT5 will end up costing me $125 CAD more than the MS650 did but hopefully it just works.
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post #41 of 145 Old 06-11-2017, 09:57 AM
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Wanting ARC/CEC to work does not mean it will. I understand your situation and I hope you get lucky and find a combination that works as expected. While I may seem cynical about ARC/CEC my experience makes me not as optimistic. I work on a lot of systems a year and I know the customers I interact with value reliability and ease of use. In the very simplest of systems ARC/CEC can work but the more devices you have the lower the chances of it working as expected. That's why I rarely recommend people use ARC/CEC. Like I said I hope you find a combo that works.
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post #42 of 145 Old 06-11-2017, 01:58 PM
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Wanting ARC/CEC to work does not mean it will. I understand your situation and I hope you get lucky and find a combination that works as expected. While I may seem cynical about ARC/CEC my experience makes me not as optimistic. I work on a lot of systems a year and I know the customers I interact with value reliability and ease of use. In the very simplest of systems ARC/CEC can work but the more devices you have the lower the chances of it working as expected. That's why I rarely recommend people use ARC/CEC. Like I said I hope you find a combo that works.
The ht-nt5 works perfectly with ARC enabled. Overall way less quirks than the Samsung and easier to use due to the on screen GUI.

The Samsung is much more capable as far as the bar component and preferred the fuller sound without relying on the sub. The nt5 has a much more detailed sound than the Samsung but I find the sub too boomy and directional when set to a volume I want.

NT5
+ Way better features and connectivity. Eithernet, Chromecast, 3 HDMI in all HDCP 2.2.
+ Decodes everything except Atmos and DTSX, including lpcm in all multichannel configurations. Not a huge deal if using it as a 2.1 system but nice to have.
+ Better for music, by large margin.
+ On screen GUI makes set up etc easy.
+Everything just works.

- Gutless without sub.
- Sub weak point. Directional and can be boomy for movies but works well for music.
- Weird upward facing display can't see it when not wall mounted.

MS650
+ Full sound all from bar.
+ Bass better integrated due to being built in.
+ Arguably better for movies even though bass definitely doesn't go as low.

- Lacks basic features.
- No OSD.
- Wifi music needs Samsung app, no Chromecast.
- Only decodes DD 5.1 and DTS 2.0. Critically makes actually using the centre channel of this bar difficult.
- Half baked HDMI implementation very quirky for me.
- Samsung support has no idea what they're talking about.

Last edited by BinaryJay; 06-11-2017 at 03:30 PM.
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post #43 of 145 Old 06-11-2017, 09:32 PM
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I'm glad it is working for you!
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post #44 of 145 Old 06-16-2017, 12:19 PM
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Can someone with the rear speakers option (SWA-9000S) tell me if you can adjust the volume of each rear speaker individually?

For example; if you're sitting closer to the left rear speaker, you want to be able to turn the volume down on that particular speaker and turn up the right rear speaker.

Thanks,
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post #45 of 145 Old 06-19-2017, 11:44 AM
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So if I have everything(DirecTV, XBoxOne, AppleTv) connected via HDMI to tv (LG C6P) and then the tv connected to soundbar via optical am I getting the best out of this soundbar? What am I missing by not using ARC?
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post #46 of 145 Old 07-08-2017, 06:43 PM
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Samsung MS650 Bass

For those who have this how does the bass sound? Is it enough to rumble a room still? How does it compare to other systems that have standalone subwoofers? Such as LG SJ8, JBL SB4, or even the Samsung M550?
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post #47 of 145 Old 07-09-2017, 04:40 AM
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If you want something to rumble a room a stand alone sub will be best. In fact, I would look at sound bars without a sub but have a subwoofer out connection and then get a decent aftermarket sub. Most of the subs included with sound bars are wimpy but they will do better than the sound bar alone.
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post #48 of 145 Old 08-02-2017, 08:05 AM
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Hi, new to the forum, Ive had my ms650 for 2 months now, and I love the soundbar. Question, is the quality of the sound bar through HDMI vs WIFI any different? Is one better than the other? I just started to use the feature last night and I think it sounds great, it sounded great with the HDMI but I did notice a slight bump in loudness with WIFI just could be me though, anyone else have an opinion on the matter.
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post #49 of 145 Old 08-03-2017, 08:04 PM
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So far I have been quite disappointed with soundbars.

I kept trying to find one - just so that the dialogue will be clearer. Don't need bass, whatever, just want to hear the dialogue better.
Tried cheap Vizio and Bose - worse than TV speakers.

Tried MS650 - has some bass and good for music but speech is marginally better than my TV speakers. Not worth $400 IMHO.
I guess I'll just keep looking.
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post #50 of 145 Old 08-03-2017, 11:47 PM
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If it works or your situation you will get much better sound from a stereo or 2.1 set up. A nice pair of decent book shelf speakers set up well will beat ANY sound bar regardless of price for sound quality. If speakers don't work for your situation then look at the sound bars that use larger drivers, smaller drivers have trouble reproducing the full vocal range at anything above low volume levels. It is just the physics of how speakers move air and their capability to reach a respectable crossover point to the sub. Sound bars with small drivers have to send some of the lower vocal range to the sub. If the crossover of the sound bar is greater than 125hz (preferably lower) then some acoustic compromises were made to make a smaller unit. Thin is in but it doesn't agree with physics and speakers.
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post #51 of 145 Old 08-04-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
If it works or your situation you will get much better sound from a stereo or 2.1 set up. A nice pair of decent book shelf speakers set up well will beat ANY sound bar regardless of price for sound quality. If speakers don't work for your situation then look at the sound bars that use larger drivers, smaller drivers have trouble reproducing the full vocal range at anything above low volume levels. It is just the physics of how speakers move air and their capability to reach a respectable crossover point to the sub. Sound bars with small drivers have to send some of the lower vocal range to the sub. If the crossover of the sound bar is greater than 125hz (preferably lower) then some acoustic compromises were made to make a smaller unit. Thin is in but it doesn't agree with physics and speakers.
I see.
Bookshelf speakers will stick out like a sore thumb...I will have to do some thinking then.
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post #52 of 145 Old 08-06-2017, 07:59 AM
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Any chance of a review soon for the swa-w700 subwoofer that will be compatible with this soundbar? Shows as available on the Samsung website but I don't see it on Amazon yet.
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post #53 of 145 Old 08-07-2017, 10:48 AM
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will it work well in a media cabinet recess?

I have a recess for soundbar in my media cabinet. Will it work in there? Also, dialog is the main reason I would swap out my sony ht260h. Sometimes we can not understand what is being said on the tv.
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post #54 of 145 Old 08-07-2017, 11:53 AM
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I have a recess for soundbar in my media cabinet. Will it work in there? Also, dialog is the main reason I would swap out my sony ht260h. Sometimes we can not understand what is being said on the tv.
Yes, its very intelligible, I've enjoyed the tone it gives the voices a realism that draws emotion.
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post #55 of 145 Old 08-07-2017, 11:44 PM
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I love my MS650. Tried so many expensive flagship soundbars before and some powered speakers such as Audioengine a5+ and I feel that this one trumps 'em all. Samsung definitely raised the bar for the soundbar category.
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post #56 of 145 Old 08-08-2017, 06:27 AM
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I love my MS650. Tried so many expensive flagship soundbars before and some powered speakers such as Audioengine a5+ and I feel that this one trumps 'em all. Samsung definitely raised the bar for the soundbar category.
Totally agree, when I first got the speaker, I was like Bass...really? and yes, besides sounding great for mids and highs, it gets most of the bass notes done perfectly, the system is very impressive. I would say that investment in the Cali lab was a real good idea.
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post #57 of 145 Old 08-12-2017, 11:17 AM
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Hello there.
I use MS650 SOUNDBAR.

I have some problems. I'm happy if you fix it with the new software.

1- The device is connected to TV very late with ARC. It takes 10 seconds after the TV is turned on. There is no problem with Samsung K551, M550 and other soundbars.

2- Soundbar and TV turn on when we open the media player devices we connected to the hdmi -in input of Sounbar.
But when you close it, the soundbar is not redirecting the channel that was last opened.
The TV is not returning to the DIN-ARJ section. There is instability.
There is no such problem in the different model samsung soundbar.
It works fine. There is a software defect on the MS650.

My TV model: philips 6007

3-Treble makes a difference despite changing the treble. There is a curtain in front of your voice. Sharpness is lack of vitality. It does not sound dynamic. It's flatter than other devices. The stereo effect is low.
FW software provides more open play.
I have tried many samsung devices.
I am very happy if you are interested.
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post #58 of 145 Old 08-16-2017, 12:19 PM
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Using this soundbar since June, pretty happy, much much better than the crappy speakers from my older Samsung TV - the problem is the TV does not have ARC and it degrades optical out to 2.0 ... I am only using it with a Windows HTPC, didn't like the HDMI in since the sound came always with 2-3 seconds delay (the HDMI of the integrated Intel graphic card might be the issue as well).
The best solution I found was to buy a cheap HDMI splitter from ebay which extracts sound from HDMI to optical SPDIF, now it works very well, still a bit delay with passthrough but it is under 1s so barely noticeable.
The only negative of the soundbar for me was the DTS2.0 - I had to setup all my software players to recode DTS to DD5.1.
I have updated the bar today (currently running 1129.1/189R after the update) and to my surprise it seems they have added DTS5.1! I have enabled DTS passthrough and now I get the center channel working as expected, without any recoding to DD! Do you also see (hear) this after the update, or did I screw up my codecs and it is actually the same as before?
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post #59 of 145 Old 08-30-2017, 06:47 AM
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Hi,

Does MS650 do Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA?
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post #60 of 145 Old 09-19-2017, 12:35 PM
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I finally got the W700(I have the MS650), the sub is beautifully constructed cube, the color matches the soundbar too, although I would’ve like to have been able to have a cover the subwoofer, and im surprised Samsung hasn’t released those sub covers? This line of subs and sound bars are exceptional and can get very loud. I’m currently sifting through configurations, placement of the sub, changing levels for sub and soundbar. Adding the sub changes the simplicity of the sound bar, and it does lose its bass function as it throws that responsibility on the subwoofer, messing with crossover functions could change this but im happy with the current configuration. The sub at level 0 is powerful and surprises me when watching movies at lvl 20 on the sound bar. I'm trying to find a happy medium level to not piss everyone I live with including neighbors oh well. I could not go back to just having the sound bar, you can hear subtle bass notes or feel them but they don’t feel intrusive or exaggerative the bass to noise ratio is nonexistent, ive never heard a 10 inch sub feel like this, well I would compare it to supercube or velodyine subs in the same 10 inch form and better functioning. I sampled some movies from UHD blu ray, Blade Runner is monstrous with its presentation, even from the beginning with the thumping bass notes, the system just comes alive its hypnotic and I felt immediately at ease when watching the movie. Watching Netflix’s anime offerings I watched “Blame”, visually impressive and the sound from the antagonist hand cannons where full of low level guttural blast, I had to turn it down at times as it got very loud, the dynamics of the soundbar are still present, it can change from soft spoken dialogue to thundering explosions immediately. I feel rather spoiled having been using the soundbar/sub configuration and was thinking of adding the surrounds but for now its been a delight and I feel like watching everything over since ive missed having a sub to play with, cant go wrong with these two items. If sub was compatible with K950 I would switch up in a heartbeat.
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