Yamaha YAS-207 Soundar with DTS Virtual:X Hands-On - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 113 Old 09-26-2017, 10:59 AM
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Question 4K DTS from USB "audio not recognized" despite capable soundbar

Hi everyone,

I've just bougth a 4K TV (Vizio M65-E0) and a soundbar (Yamaha YAS-207). Their are connected via a HDMI cable (ARC).

When trying to play a file from a USB stick directly plug to the TV, the TV says "audio not recognized".

The file is encoded using DTS HD-MA. I have read than it is expected that a TV does not have the right codecs to read DTS audio. However, the soundbar is supposed to have DTS codec. So I don't understand why the audio is not pass-through the soundbar,, which can in turn decode the audio signal. It is like the audio signal is blocked at TV level and the sound bar does not have the opportunity to decode it. Unfortunately, the sound bar does not have USB ports.

The TV has the following specs:
5.1 Passthrough ARC Dolby Digital : Yes
5.1 Passthrough ARC DTS : Yes
5.1 Passthrough Optical Dolby Digital : Yes
5.1 Passthrough Optical DTS : Yes

The soundbar specs:
Dolby Digital
Dolby Pro Logic II
DTS Digital Surround

My computer being too slow to run 4K movie, the USB stick was my only solution to read 4K content on TV. I have read elsewhere that I could re-encode the audio part file leaving the video untouched, but that would be highly inconvenient to do that for each video I'd like to watch.

Do you have an idea of what's going on? What do you recommend ?

Thanks!
Cheers,
Romain
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post #62 of 113 Old 09-26-2017, 11:05 AM
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Lossless audio is not supported over ARC.

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post #63 of 113 Old 09-26-2017, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ITALBOY View Post
Hi Ellebob


believe something wrong... on above description there are 2 link between TV and SB(both HMDI Arc both Optical)
no link between PS and TV,...


so resuming all


TV and SB ? HDMI ARC or optical? Both,
but you won't use ARC. SB HDMI output to HDMI input on TV, doesn't matter if it is the ARC input or not since you will be turning ARC off. TV optical output to SB optical input

TV - MYSKY . ok HMDI - Mysky to HDMI input on TV
PS and SB: Ok HDMI IN - PS to HDMI input on SB
PS and TV? No direct connection


thanks
To use PS TV to whatever input the HDMI out of the sound bar is connected, SB to HDMI input.
To use Mysky TV to HDMI input Mysky is connected, SB to optical input.
Tu use TV apps or tuner, SB to optical

Make sure CEC/ARC are turned off on all devices.
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post #64 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
To use PS TV to whatever input the HDMI out of the sound bar is connected, SB to HDMI input.
To use Mysky TV to HDMI input Mysky is connected, SB to optical input.
Tu use TV apps or tuner, SB to optical

Make sure CEC/ARC are turned off on all devices.
thanks Ellebob, so if i'm not wrong video signal of PS to Tv utilize HDMI Arc fm Tv and Sb? because in this case i do not connect any cable fm Ps to Tv...
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post #65 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 05:18 AM
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The way I described does not use ARC. If you want to use ARC connect the PS and Mysky to the TV HDMI inputs and connect the Sound Bar HDMI output to the TV's ARC HDMI input.

ARC has pros and cons.

Pros:
On screen volume of sound bar
Can use TVs remote for volume
Less connections
Theoretically automatic input switching and powering on/off devices

Cons:
When you turn on ARC it enable CEC (consumer electronic control) which often causes problems with input switching and turning on/off devices
Does not have lossless surround sound formats. Blu-ray is the main source that has lossless sound, so not a big deal for most other sources. But to get lossless sound the device needs to go to the sound bar first and then the video will be sent from the sound bar to the TV. So the BR player (PS in this case) connects to the SB HDMI input. The SB uses the audio and sends the video out it HDMI out to the TV on one of its HDMI inputs.
Will require multiple remotes or a universal remote

While ARC sounds great in theory it is the CEC part of it that tends to make the system difficult. In the simplest of systems like your mysky box, TV and SB it would probably work fine. The PS will probably mess it up. When you turn on the PS there is a good chance it will switch to the proper input and work fine. When you turn the PS off it will probably not switch back to the Mysky input so you will need to use the TV remote for that. The other problem we often find is the SB or TV will not go to the proper input when you turn on the system, requiring some more button presses.

If reliability and ease of use is important than turn off CEC/ARC and get a decent universal remote. You can get an IR dongle for the PS so you will be able to control it from the remote for watching Blu-ray and not have to use the PS controller. I know PS makes a remote but it does not work IR so the universal remote can't learn it. The IR dongles work fine.

CEC goes under many names. Each manufacturer calls it something different. Here is a link with a basic list.
https://support.myharmony.com/en-us/...g-hdmi-and-cec

if you turn off ARC/CEC and you have devices connected to the TV via HDMI or use the TVs apps or tuner then you need to use an optical cable from the TVs optical output to the optical input of the sound bar.
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post #66 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teachsac View Post
Lossless audio is not supported over ARC.

Hello Teachsac,
thank you for your answer.
I have connected the soundbar and the TV with an optical cable but the issue remains.
any idea?
Thanks,
Romain
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post #67 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r0m_1 View Post
Hello Teachsac,
thank you for your answer.
I have connected the soundbar and the TV with an optical cable but the issue remains.
any idea?
Thanks,
Romain
Lossless is only supported in 2 channels over optical, also. Same as ARC. If your file does not have a lossy DTS or DD track, 2 channels is all you will get over optical, coax, or ARC. For Lossless DTS MA or DD TrueHD, you need HDMI.

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post #68 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 12:37 PM
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Hi Mark
I bought this from BB the other day I like the sound but when I turn on my tv [which is a 4k Samsung + Apple TV & Fios cable ] the YAS lights up I hear the TV no problem but 20 seconds later no sound & I have press HDMI on the little remote to get the sound back again. My second issue is that the Apple TV is connected to my TV but when I switch to ATV no sound what so ever coming from the 207 & I hear the ATV through my TV. What's going on?..
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post #69 of 113 Old 09-27-2017, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerdude View Post
Hi Mark
I bought this from BB the other day I like the sound but when I turn on my tv [which is a 4k Samsung + Apple TV & Fios cable ] the YAS lights up I hear the TV no problem but 20 seconds later no sound & I have press HDMI on the little remote to get the sound back again. My second issue is that the Apple TV is connected to my TV but when I switch to ATV no sound what so ever coming from the 207 & I hear the ATV through my TV. What's going on?..
I'm not able to be a troubleshooter in this instance... Hopefully you'll get some support from other owners here, or from Yamaha.

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post #70 of 113 Old 10-01-2017, 10:06 AM
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So how does the Yamaha 207 compare to the The Vizio SB3621n-E8?

They seem to be the best soundbars for under $300.
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post #71 of 113 Old 10-07-2017, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
So how does the Yamaha 207 compare to the The Vizio SB3621n-E8?

They seem to be the best soundbars for under $300.
Ty Pendlebury recently reviewed the Yamaha 207 and a little further back the Vizio. From what I gathered he thinks the Vizio is a better value but the Yamaha is more immersive.

I'm pretty satisfied with my current soundbar - Vizio SB4051-C0 - but if it were to go kaput I would probably get the Yamaha. At times I can tell the sound is coming from the soundbar and it appears this would be less of a problem on the Yamaha.

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post #72 of 113 Old 10-23-2017, 11:29 AM
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Not sure why there's this thread and this thread both about the 207, but I figured I'd write here since it has more recent posts.

I wanted the Sony ST-5000 to go with my new 65" x900e, but I eventually decided to get a cheap-ish solution to hold me over until I'm ready to pull the trigger (on the 5k or possibly another similar option). Also, I figured the cheap solution could get moved to another room down the road, so it'd end up a worthwhile investment. On a trip to BB, it was between the 207 the new JBL 2.1, but the 207 was on sale for some reason ($50 off in-store only) so I jumped.

I honestly think it's quite good for the money. I wasn't expecting to be blown away, but it's punchy enough and a huge upgrade compared to the TV sound (as well it should be!) Bluetooth music sounded nice as well. I've gone back and forth on the Bass Extension setting, but I decided it was too heavy overall, so it's off now. I haven't messed with Clear Voice thoroughly, and the reason mostly has to do with the understanding that this is a 2.1 setup, so I don't want to experience some kind of center channel "emulation."

This leads to my thoughts on the DTS V:X. I imagine that a $600+ soundbar with 3.1 might have the capability to do it justice, but I haven't been wowed by my 207 testing. The field is certainly more immersive, but as some have already pointed out, the sound becomes more hollow or simply less impactful. Dialogue loses too much emphasis for my tastes. I will play around with it more this week, but I'm totally content leaving this thing in Standard listening mode for everything I watch.

I have it connected via optical for now, but I'll probably try ARC at some point soon.
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post #73 of 113 Old 10-24-2017, 07:39 AM
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This compared to Samsung hw-ms650

Please advise on this compared to Samsung HW-ms650?
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post #74 of 113 Old 10-24-2017, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dry509 View Post
Please advise on this compared to Samsung HW-ms650?
I would think the 650 with the Samsung SWA-W700 subwoofer would be quite an upgrade from the 207 but then it should be for almost $900. But without it wouldn't have the lower punch of the 207 though I'm hearing the cross over doesn't work that seamless with the subwoofer. I guess it really comes down to if the 650 w/o the sub has sufficient bass for your needs.

I would love to hear @ imagic take as he has tested both.

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post #75 of 113 Old 11-09-2017, 12:11 PM
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I would think the 650 with the Samsung SWA-W700 subwoofer would be quite an upgrade from the 207 but then it should be for almost $900. But without it wouldn't have the lower punch of the 207 though I'm hearing the cross over doesn't work that seamless with the subwoofer. I guess it really comes down to if the 650 w/o the sub has sufficient bass for your needs.

I would love to hear @ imagic take as he has tested both.
Agreed.

I've got a few options on my desk to improve the audio of my LG B7 OLED.

Yamaha YAS-207 - €285
Sony HT-CT800 - €339
Samsung HW-MS650 - €390
Sony HT-NT5 - €449
JBL SBL 450 - €449

It should go in a rather small room, mind you. I'd use it to watch movies/TV shows (via Netflix/Amazon etc. rather than Blu-ray, at least for now) and to play games on the PS4 Pro and Xbox One X. Which one should I choose?

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Last edited by Alexious; 11-10-2017 at 04:58 AM.
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post #76 of 113 Old 11-10-2017, 06:06 AM
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The Samsung with sub, without sub the JBL. For Yamaha I prefer the 107 with a good sub over the 207's wimpy sub for about the same price here. I am not sure in your area.
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post #77 of 113 Old 11-10-2017, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
The Samsung with sub, without sub the JBL. For Yamaha I prefer the 107 with a good sub over the 207's wimpy sub for about the same price here. I am not sure in your area.
Thank you. I guess I'll wait and see if there's a good Black Friday deal on the JBL. Although ideally, I'd pick the MagniFi Max because it has Dolby Vision passthrough, though I've read mixed reviews on the MagniFi compared to the MagniFi Mini. Any clue why?
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post #78 of 113 Old 11-10-2017, 12:24 PM
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I am not sure why but I can take an educated guess. The Mini uses tweeters for better highs, where the magnify does not have tweeters. The mini also uses a bigger midrange driver than the regular Magnifi. The larger midrange driver will do better for the lower midrange and upper bass above the subwoofer frequencies. This is a limitation of having to use smaller drivers to make a thinner sound bar and is a going trend with sound bar manufacturers because the smaller the sound bar, the better they sell, especially if a spouse is involved in the process.. The mini while not as long as the regular bars is actually taller to fit the larger midrange. The max has tweeters but still use the same smaller midrange drivers as the regular magnifi so it will most likely exhibit a similar problem for the lower midrange, upper bass region. It may do a little better because it has a separate midrange to offset some of the work of the other driver.

Speakers are nothing more than a device that moves air to create sound. Bigger speakers move more air and that is needed to play lower frequencies at reasonable volumes. With the trend to make everything smaller for aesthetics, some tradeoffs in sound quality will happen.
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post #79 of 113 Old 11-10-2017, 05:34 PM
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With what's available on the market I'm thinking I'm not going to do much better for a sub $500 price point than what I have, at least what I have is before the craze for smaller sound bars that Ellebob mentioned above.

But if it were to go kaput I would probably go with the Samsung with the sub though it's above the $500 price point.

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post #80 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
The Samsung with sub, without sub the JBL. For Yamaha I prefer the 107 with a good sub over the 207's wimpy sub for about the same price here. I am not sure in your area.
An update on this - so far, the JBL 450 doesn't seem to get any decent discount and it's still at 480€ at the lowest. On the other hand, there's an offer for the Samsung 651 priced at a mere 256€, which is tempting to say the least.

I would be willing to purchase the SWA W700 subwoofer to go with it, but prices in Europe are downright insane. It can't be found anywhere at less than 600€, whereas it's 299$ on several US websites...
That price is frankly too much. Also, would I be correct in assuming that bass should be less important for me as the soundbar will go in a bedroom and I generally keep sound volume on the low end?

Thanks
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post #81 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 05:17 AM
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To me bass isn't about shaking the house off its foundation but I do like to hear that part of the frequency spectrum and the small speakers in these sound bars simply can't do that. The bass is what provides that richer, fuller sound. if you listen at loud levels then a bigger subwoofer would be required but even at low volumes I find having bass a benefit. I understand for just better dialogue clarity in a bedroom a sub might not be needed if you just want something better than the TV sound. Here sound bars can be a huge upgrade. Without a sub the Samsung 650 and Yamaha YAS-107 would be good choices.
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post #82 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob View Post
To me bass isn't about shaking the house off its foundation but I do like to hear that part of the frequency spectrum and the small speakers in these sound bars simply can't do that. The bass is what provides that richer, fuller sound. if you listen at loud levels then a bigger subwoofer would be required but even at low volumes I find having bass a benefit. I understand for just better dialogue clarity in a bedroom a sub might not be needed if you just want something better than the TV sound. Here sound bars can be a huge upgrade. Without a sub the Samsung 650 and Yamaha YAS-107 would be good choices.
Thanks. I just noticed the YAS-107 is priced even lower at 217€ - which subwoofer would you recommend to go with it?
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post #83 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 05:59 AM
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Practically any subwoofer that has an 8" woofer or larger will destroy the sub that comes with the 207, which is wimpy. I am not sure what is available in your neck of thee woods but popular ones here would be the Dayton or Bic subs. For more of the bigger brands Polk, Sony, Yamaha and Klipsch and others make 8"-15" models between $80-$200.
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post #84 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 09:15 AM
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YAS-207 connection question

First post.


I have an LG C7 on the way.
It wil be joining a satellite receiver, a Sony 4k Blu-ray player, a 4K Apple TV and a Yamaha 207 SB.
I'm a bit confused as to the best connection senario. What I'm thinking of is:
Sat, Blu-ray and Apple TV all plugged into the TV via HDMI.
Then ACR HDMI port on TV to HDMI input on the 207.

Sound correct?
Thanks,
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post #85 of 113 Old 11-21-2017, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkb12 View Post
First post.


I have an LG C7 on the way.
It wil be joining a satellite receiver, a Sony 4k Blu-ray player, a 4K Apple TV and a Yamaha 207 SB.
I'm a bit confused as to the best connection senario. What I'm thinking of is:
Sat, Blu-ray and Apple TV all plugged into the TV via HDMI.
Then ACR HDMI port on TV to HDMI input on the 207.

Sound correct?
Thanks,
Yes, you can also use the optical out if you run out of HDMI inputs from the TV though I suspect you'll lose pass through of DTS Virtual:X with the optical.

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post #86 of 113 Old 11-23-2017, 08:13 PM
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are the speakers facing upwards on this soundbar, or are they facing you?
looking for a decent soundbar, although i have an older non smart tv toshiba at this moment. Will
turning it off and on power this bar instead of manually . I have directv.
Thank you
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post #87 of 113 Old 11-24-2017, 12:22 PM
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Great thread!

I had a related question to the YAS-207 that some might be wondering. Forgive me if this is a basic question but I'm trying to understand this DTS Virtual: X. I just bought the YAS-107 which also claims to have Virtual X.

My question is this: I have a Sony Blu-Ray 4k player (UBP-X800) that claims to output DTS:X. When I plug in my soundbar to the Sony am I getting Virtual X or nothing? I've yet to see a Blu-Ray player or TV product that advertises Virtual X.... only DTS:X. Will the soundbar decode the DTS:X into Virtual X or will we have to wait until other products come out with specific Virtual X capabilites.

Long story short: Can a DTS:X product send an audio signal to a DTS:Virtual X speaker/soundbar/system and have it play Virtual X?

Thanks so much for the help!
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post #88 of 113 Old 11-24-2017, 01:42 PM
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I picked one up today. I shouldn?t have read about this so much because I noticed the entire time that the sub goes in and out due to the crossover when vocals are coming through. I was just watching a basketball game and the sub cuts in and out due to the crossover being in the vocal range.

Anyone tried a Sony ht-ct790 or ht-ct800? What about lg sh7b? Wonder what those list as crossovers.
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post #89 of 113 Old 11-24-2017, 04:37 PM
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Watching some more basketball now. Watching the duke game and every time Bilas talks the sub sound goes in and out, i presume depending on the frequency his voice hits?

I am on regular surround setting with -2 sub, bass ext on, and clear voice on as recommended earlier by someone.
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post #90 of 113 Old 11-27-2017, 12:05 AM
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Hi,

I am using this sound bar for a week now. No issues with bass overlap ( in and out ). Before i have used M-Audio BX5 studio monitors . For music listening , i am using ultrasone and senheiser. I have a clue how a sound should sound . Sound bars are made strictly for TVs (movies - tv shows , nextflix, not for music. Same for home cinemas . Don`t get me wrong. Music is pretty good , especially with playback mode set to stereo ONLY. For music, go with any pairs of studio monitors + a subwoofer (or without).

Comparing this sound bar with others in the same price range, a major plus from my point of view is the materials. Subwoofer is made from MDF not plasic. This makes it sound much better than the others. Aslo ,I dont know if samsung and sony gives you the option to control the subwoofer, but i can`t imagine to have such a setup without the posibility to control the subwoofer tone.
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dts virtual:x , soundbar , Yamaha , yas-207

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