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Official Nakamichi Shockwafe 9.2 and 7.2 dts:x dual subwoofers soundbars thread

975K views 7K replies 549 participants last post by  Daverey06 
#1 ·
The 9.2 sound bar caught my eye when it was announced during CES 2017, together with the Sony htst5000.

Currently for pre-order, with another 7.2 model available.
Nakamichi Shockwafe Ultra 9.2 DTSX: www.nakamichi-usa.com/shockwafe-ultra-preorder
Nakamichi Shockwafe Elite 7.2 DTSX: www.nakamichi-usa.com/shockwafe-elite-preorder

I have pre-ordered the 9.2 and it is expected to be delivered in October. Will be using it with my new 65” LG 4K OLED in my 24x24 living room.

I will post opinions on it when I receive it
 
#3,182 ·
Guys, I need recommendations for a suitable HDMI cable.

I bought a 5 meters HDMI 2.0 cable (18Gbps) that I'm using to connect my PS4 Pro, but something odd is going on.

Legend:
--> HDMI directional connection
HDMI ARC connection

Chain A:
PS4 Pro --5m HDMI 2.0 cable--> LG OLED55C7 Naka Elite 7.2

Chain B:
PS4 Pro --5m HDMI 2.0 cable--> Naka Elite 7.2 LG OLED55C7

Now, Chain A works perfectly; however, given that the audio passthrough is being handled by the LG OLED55C7 ARC, that means only 1Mbps audio can be passed to the Naka Elite 7.2, so it's pretty much just compressed lossy DD 5.1 and DTS 5.1. I don't get to revel in the glory of lossless audio formats like DTS-HD Master Audio or 8 channel LPCM.

On the other hand, Chain B is able to handle the lossless good stuff, and theoretically pass the video through to the OLED55C7. Moreover Chain B is what the Nakamichi Shockwafe manual recommends when it comes to connecting the PS4 Pro to make full use of the Nakamichi Shockwafe. Unfortunately, the video passthrough is unstable to the point of unusable. It is very odd in that should I immediately fire up Monster Hunter World (which supports 4K HDR), it might flicker for a moment while negotiating the 4K HDR handshake, but once that sweet sweet HDR logo shows up on my OLED55C7, the signal seems to stay connected and I can play MHW no problemo. Yet if I were to switch back to the HOME screen of the PS4 Pro, and fire up Hulu or Plex or anything else in 1080p that shouldn't even stress the HDMI cable to its 18Gbps limit, it would start to flicker and lose the video signal. I'll still hear the sound coming out of the Elite 7.2 but the video is gone. If I switch the input away (be it the OLED55C7 input or the Shockwafe input) and switch back, it'd renegotiate the signal and I'll get video again for a brief moment (just a few seconds), and it'll flicker again and lose the video passthrough.

In an attempt to identify what exactly is causing this issue, I have substituted the 5m cable for a shorter cable, so Chain B goes:

PS4 Pro --1.5m HDMI 2.0 cable--> Naka Elite 7.2 LG OLED55C7

This was able to sustain the connection, although occasionally that flicker and then loss of video happens at the beginning but doing that input switching back and forth would force the devices to renegotiate the signals and then it's all good. So I know what you're thinking, seems like it's the 5m HDMI cable at fault, right? Well, no, not exactly, because when I ran Chain B with Nvidia Shield TV:

Nvidia Shield TV --5m HDMI 2.0 cable--> Naka Elite 7.2 LG OLED55C7

It worked beautifully without any issues. I was watching 4K HDR remuxes through Plex from a remote server Direct Playing with DTS-HD Master Audio and it was glorious. HDR was on, audio was lossless and full 8-channel instead of 6-channel Neural:X upmixed to 8-channel. Like I said, Direct Play. And at no point did the signal cut out.

So this leads me to think whatever handles the 4K HDR passthrough in the Shockwafe isn't that robust and is particularly sensitive to everything downstream. My guess is that the PS4 Pro and the cable are both serviceable, but neither one is outstanding, so when it hits the Shockwafe, it bugs out, whereas with the Shield, since the Shield is outstanding, when coupled with a serviceable cable, the Shockwafe was still able to work with that. Nevertheless, I'm sure I'm not the only one who has connected his / her PS4 Pro to the Shockwafe with a long cable, so can any other Shockwafe owner be kind enough to recommend me a cable to work with? I do need it to be at least 4 meters.

Thank you!
 
#3,183 ·
Guys, I need recommendations for a suitable HDMI cable.
Firstly what brand and model of hdmi cable did you buy?

Turns out not all are created equally and even though they say 2.0 they don't hit the 18GBs.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...operly-reliably-support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b.html

I took have found the handshaking to be annoying. For me usually switching inputs assists it out. I find Netflix on my HTPC the worst for it.

Are you running the latest firmware for your gear? Are any componets set to 'auto' for resolutions etc?
 
#3,184 ·
Surround L & R Balance Level (-3 to +3)

Can anyone explain to me in what situation(s) that these settings would need any adjustments?
My guess is for when the surround satellites are positioned offset from the actual listening position.
Correct me if I am incorrect.



Surround Left Balance Level (-3 to +3)

Surround Right Balance Level (-3 to +3)
 

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#3,186 ·
So I've decided I'm returning/refunding my 9.2 Ultra. I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what the deal is with this system. When it works...it sounds amazing (which is only part of the time). I've gone through every setting possible trying to figure out the loss of surround speakers and subs after powering down the TV/Nvidia Shield. I've triedf firmware version 3.0, then upgraded to v3.1, now went back to v3.0. Still the same thing.

The system will be working perfect and then I can power off my TV and everything goes to sleep mode. Simply come back later on, turn the TV on, and Nvidia Shield, log into Netflix or Prime and....nothing. No surround, no subs. Only the center soundbar works. Hitting the surround on/off bottoms does nothing. Cycling through the dolby DSP settings does nothing. And then oddly just a little while ago, I hit the "surround off" bottom and the subs turned and surround turned on. Hitting surround on bottom turned everything off. I have to literally do a full restart on the Nvidia Shield and only sometimes that makes it start working again.

I'm just done with it. This 9.2 system is going back. They can have it.
 
#3,198 ·
Why do you have DirecTV going through your xbox? Since DirecTV supports Atmos you would want to hook DirecTV straight to an input on the Nakamichi. However I have not seen any content on DirecTV that is Atmos I know in setting it says its available. I also have noticed an issue with DirecTV straight to soundbar in which ff, rw, pausing with sometimes audio to just stop. Nakamichi knows about the issue.
 
#3,199 · (Edited)
If you run your DirecTV through your Xbox one, all sound will be in Dolby Atmos. I also needed to do this since my Vizio 5.1.2 soundbar only has 1 HDMI. My nakamichi 9.2 has not arrived yet.

I just ordered a 3ft Amazon HDMI extension cord so I can plug my Amazon fire stick directly to the nakamichi 9.2 when it arrives.
 
#3,200 ·
I ordered the 9.2 refurbished system on eBay last night after spending the weekend reading (almost) every post in this thread. Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information! Nakamichi actually has a link to this thread on the eBay page!

For those using the Atlantic stands and rears in dipole mode, will the RCA cables for both speakers fit through the stand for cable management? I have a pair of Sanus stands, but I know the holes on those are too small for even one RCA cable.
 
#3,201 ·
I ordered the 9.2 refurbished system on eBay last night after spending the weekend reading (almost) every post in this thread. Thanks to everyone for all the helpful information! Nakamichi actually has a link to this thread on the eBay page!



For those using the Atlantic stands and rears in dipole mode, will the RCA cables for both speakers fit through the stand for cable management? I have a pair of Sanus stands, but I know the holes on those are too small for even one RCA cable.
Im not sure about how small the hole is but nakamichi rca cable is very thin.

Fact is it is so thin that you even want to replace it.


나의 LM-Q815L 의 Tapatalk에서 보냄
 
#3,202 ·
I just placed my order on Amazon for a new one. I'll have it Thursday and I am excited to try this out.


Was looking at that diagram above. I originally was thinking of doing it the wrong way so I could change all inputs via the TV remote as it is more wife & child friendly but I see that it claims there is limited bandwidth for ATMOS over ARC. Is that TV dependent? I have an LG C7P from 2018.



That being said I am "currently" running all inputs through my 4k AVR. I am using the yamaha remote to switch inputs but the number of times I've had to "rescue" the family when they just want to watch a movie and get lost in the maze of remotes has pushed me towards a more simple solution.


I am sure it will work out fine though.



The main question I have for you guys is speaker placement. My couches are up against a wall in the rear but I want to take advantage of as much height presence as I can using whatever configuration is available. Looking at their website I think the hybrid type 2 is where I want to be. Attached are some photos of my family room. Note how the couch is up against two walls with a triangle hole back behind with a fake plant. I would put one speaker stand back there or perhaps put the speaker on the half-wall shelf where the current bookshelf speaker is sitting. On the other side I have a end table with my second bookshelf speaker sitting on it under the lamp. I would slide the end table away from the wall and put a speaker stand there. Which means the rear speakers will not be so much "behind" the listener as slightly behind the ear but to the side. I really don't see any other way to go. And no, I won't mount speakers to the walls or ceiling. I have a wife that I want to stay on good terms with.


Any suggestions on speaker configuration from you guys? Thanks
 

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#3,204 ·
The main question I have for you guys is speaker placement. My couches are up against a wall in the rear but I want to take advantage of as much height presence as I can using whatever configuration is available. Looking at their website I think the hybrid type 2 is where I want to be. Attached are some photos of my family room. Note how the couch is up against two walls with a triangle hole back behind with a fake plant. I would put one speaker stand back there or perhaps put the speaker on the half-wall shelf where the current bookshelf speaker is sitting. On the other side I have a end table with my second bookshelf speaker sitting on it under the lamp. I would slide the end table away from the wall and put a speaker stand there. Which means the rear speakers will not be so much "behind" the listener as slightly behind the ear but to the side. I really don't see any other way to go. And no, I won't mount speakers to the walls or ceiling. I have a wife that I want to stay on good terms with.


Any suggestions on speaker configuration from you guys? Thanks
You don't show the 4th left wall or if it is open...if it is open how would you place the side firing speaker? Also, assume you will place one woofer where the fake plant is and the other under the corner table? I would think dipole 1 best fits your need (no wires to hide too) but once you get your woofers placed you will be able to experiment between hybrid 2 and dipole 1. I am in the signature mode so haven't tried any other setups but I've read on here that folks like the sound effects in the dipole config. Luckily you will be able to experiment between setups. Open walls suck if only because if people are in those rooms and not watching TV, it gets loud...
 
#3,207 ·
I can tell you that when I was having issues, when it initially came our, Ray and his staff went above and beyond to get my issue resolved. Even getting me to come on to this forum to see if anyone here could help and the guys here did just that. That kind of service goes a long way to customers like me. Glad to see they are still working that way.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#3,210 ·
Atmos Best User Settings

As I had posted earlier, I believe that the upgrade bricked my bar during the installation process. Ray sent me a prepaid label and I sent the bar back to them after 5 different flash drives including one that was pre-loaded by Ray did not work. It took a week for them to receive the bar and they decided not to repair it and to send me a replacement with Atmos already installed. I am receiving it today and I am ready to finally try my new system. I searched the threads and looked for settings that others are using for best experience. I will be running my system in Dipole 2 mode so examples of best settings for that would be awesome. Send your recommendations please! FYi running Nackamichi 9.2/ Samsung NU8000 82" / Monoprice HDMI's / Xbox OneS.
 
#3,212 ·
As I had posted earlier, I believe that the upgrade bricked my bar during the installation process. Ray sent me a prepaid label and I sent the bar back to them after 5 different flash drives including one that was pre-loaded by Ray did not work. It took a week for them to receive the bar and they decided not to repair it and to send me a replacement with Atmos already installed. I am receiving it today and I am ready to finally try my new system. I searched the threads and looked for settings that others are using for best experience. I will be running my system in Dipole 2 mode so examples of best settings for that would be awesome. Send your recommendations please! FYi running Nackamichi 9.2/ Samsung NU8000 82" / Monoprice HDMI's / Xbox OneS.
I dipoled mine in both 1 and 2 at the same time and really liked the response. Try that also when checking the placement. Enjoy

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
#3,211 ·
I'll be running similar to you... Soon running Nackamichi 9.2/ LG 86" / all Monoprice 18gps HDMI's / Xbox OneS/ DirecTV through Xbox one s and Firestick.

I am going to try all the different speaker placements with Saving Private Ryan. Just hope my Refurb unit ships soon. Haven't been this excited in a long time!
 
#3,213 ·
Hey guys. new to the forum this is my first post. i bought the 7.1 pro system from walmart about a month ago and it sounds great and i think i’ve got my preferred sound settings tweaked now. i’m waiting on the update for atmos and dolby vision to plug any of my sources into the bar itself. I’ve run into a couple issues that i can’t seem to work out and maybe there’s not real solution.

both issues seem to be with cec and i’m not sure if it’s the sound bar, my tv or my source device.

my equipment and setup right now are as follows.

nakamichi 7.1 pro dtsx hooked up to my vizio p65-f1 via hdmi arc. firestick 4k and ps4 hooked up to the tvs other hdmi ports.
Once the update comes out i’ll be hooking the fire stick and probably the ps4 to the bars other hdmi inputs.

The problem i’m tuning into is this. the tv has a couple of options for cec. cec enabled and cec arc only. the nakamichi setup guide for vizio tvs says to select arc only. in my current setup where my firestick is plugged into the tv the arc only option eliminates my fire sticks ability to switch inputs when pressing the home button on the firestick remote. with cec enable for all inputs however i run into an odd issue where my tv or sounbar power on on their own so i’ll come home from work to find my tv on. so this has forced me to chose cec for arc only but then i lose the convenience of pressing the home button on my firestick remote and having it switch the tv input to the correct one.

i tried setting up the firestick plugged directly into the soundbar to see if somehow the cec would get passed through the bar to the tv and switch inputs but no luck.

in the firestick settings there is an option to select which input it’s supposed to change on the tv and soundbar respectively when pressing the home button on the remote. i’ve selected hdmi 1 (arc) for the tv and hdmi 2 (where the firestick is connected) for the soundbar. with these settings and the stick plugged into the bar i can get the bar to switch the input to hdmi 2 as it should but the tv will stay on whatever input with no change.


so to sum it all up. if cec is enabled my tv turns itself on. if it’s set to arc only i lose the convenience of the firestick remotes cec home button functionality.

any advice would be greatly appreciated. i’ve done a couple hdmi refers sequences to no avail.
 
#3,217 ·
ok so i just got home to do a little more testing and i was playing around with the input selection in the firestick settings. if i set the firestick to switch to tv input 2 and soundbar input 2 it will switch both no problem. however if i set it to switch to tv input 1 (arc) and soundbar input 2 it will only switch the soundbar and the tv will stay on whatever input it’s already on. so the cec comand is sending through to the tv and soundbar but it doesn’t work for the input i need it to. super confused why that’s the case but i’m gonna go through and factory reset the firestick and probably the tv and soundbar aswell if the firestick reset doesn’t work.
 
#3,218 ·
Not sure if it helps, but I have a Vizio PQ65 and CEC set to Enabled. Never bothered setting it to Arc only and haven't had any trouble. Using an Apple TV, HTPC, and a Switch connected to my 9.2 sound bar. All of them turn on the bar and TV fine, no issues with it randomly turning on either.

Does your P series have a setting for Quick start or Eco mode? Maybe toggle that and see if it helps, as well as checking the power settings for the USB port. If you're powering the fire stick from the TVs USB that could be causing it to power on. Consider external power for it.
 
#3,219 ·
i’ve tried both quick start and eco and they don’t effect the issue. i don’t have the firestick powered by the tv usb because a message pops up saying that it’s not getting enough power. that gives me a good idea tho. if i could somehow amplify the usb power output from the tv (i think i’ve seen devices advertising this) then i could have the power to the firestick cut off with the tv which may solve my issue of it turning on randomly and then i could set cec to enabled again regain the home button functionality of the firestick remote.
 
#3,220 ·
Just saw this on Amazon for the 9.2 system. Wonder what the issue is...

Item Under Review
While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)

We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible.
 
#3,227 · (Edited)
To DISABLE or TURN OFF CEC.

To FULLY DISABLE CEC it will need to be turned OFF in each of your device settings. Example TV, Bluray player, Xbox, Nakamichi, etc.

L@@k thru your device settings for CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) turn them all off in each device. Some devices you/it will/may also disable ARC function. Run an optical cable from the TV to the Nakamichi. To allow audio from apps within the TV.

L@@k in your device owners manual CEC is called by different names depending on each brand. Something sync, etc. it will be in the manual.

If your using HDMI CEC on the Nakamichi and any device connected to it with a HDMI cable. Including your TV. Disable it on the Nakamichi and ALL the devices connected to it. by turning it off. When turned ON. Allows each device to communicate with each device connected with a HDMI cable. It will change audio and video settings within your devices. Some of the changes you may like others you may not.

Also if you need audio sent from your TV to the Nakamichi when using apps withing the TV. Use an optical cable from TV to the nakamichi. Instead of the ARC HDMI connection. Turn off or disable ARC.

Recommend to power off all your devices, remove ALL HDMI cables and factory reset all your devices. Go into menu and turn off CEC and ARC on each device. Power off each device. Connect HDMI cables power each device on. One at a time to allow handshake. Then power every device off including TV. Then do your next device. Aliowing each device to establish a HDMI hand shake connection.

L@@k at purchasing a harmony remote.

Good luck..................
 
#3,229 ·
Is it possible that the firmware updates (sounds like 9.2 needs another i will bet you get soon) but the 7.2 and 7.1 may not happen until the firmware isnt really solid but in addition to when pretty much all 2018s are sold? Hence the 9.2 increase...

Just a thought. Its a good business choice on the one hand but when the 7.2 firmware comes out... running everyone out of return periods for the most part... i hope its solid as is the 9.2 hopefully with be one more update will be.
 
#3,230 ·
So I updated my firmware to the current version about 5 days ago, and to my surprise upon startup of my tv the soundbar by default starts on hdmi 4 which my XFINITY box is set to. Which is great. This is exactly what I wanted to happen instead of the soundbar switching to arc on startup and me having to get the nakamichi remote and clicking hdmi 4 to watch tv. Now 5 days later and back the soundbar is going back to arc upon startup. I didn’t change any settings. Any clue how I can get it to stay on hdmi on startup like it has been for the last 5 days. I tried unplugging the hdmi cables for 5 minutes and did a reset and still goes to arc upon startup.
 
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