Official Nakamichi Shockwafe 9.2 and 7.2 dts:x dual subwoofers soundbars thread - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 5304 Old 12-04-2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CoreyM View Post
"But my amp goes to 11".

With the old volume settings the bar went from too soft to too loud with one click. I'm happy with the smaller increments even if I use a "higher" number.

This.
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post #1862 of 5304 Old 12-04-2018, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Robertczek View Post
I am going to add this : I also upgraded the firmware to the pat recent that is on nakamichi website however I was EXTREMELY disappointed in how the volume level was changed and I actually thought overall the system sounded better prior to the update.... So I emailed customer support (amazing) and got a response within hours with a file for the older version which I installed without issue...

So i know most of these are shipping with theost recent firmware, if you want to try the older version send an email to them asking for the older version..

For reference, I turn the volume up to 45-50 on any dd source and it cannot go up any louder without being out of control lol! When I upgraded the firmware I had to be up into the 70-80 range to get similar results
Did you reset after the firmware update? I had this same issue when I updated but then noticed the instructions stay to do a reset after the update is complete and the bar has restarted. Made a huge difference but you have to re-do your custom settings after the reset.

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post #1863 of 5304 Old 12-04-2018, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by johngettler View Post
There are settings for most popular source devices that may need to be changed to be optimize for the Nakamichi. Check this page which has settings for many source devices and change you Roku settings if needed:

https://www.helpdesk.nakamichi-usa.com/audio-settings
Yes, I checked out that page. I found that using bitstream DTS instead of bitstream DD for the PS4 provides a clearer and louder sound.

Upon further use, now I do not think it is a matter of source device, but whether that source is using DTS or DD. Everything I have tried, DTS is just louder. Could Nakamichi be using two different volume curves? One for DTS and one for DD?
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post #1864 of 5304 Old 12-04-2018, 08:50 PM
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Yes, I checked out that page. I found that using bitstream DTS instead of bitstream DD for the PS4 provides a clearer and louder sound.

Upon further use, now I do not think it is a matter of source device, but whether that source is using DTS or DD. Everything I have tried, DTS is just louder. Could Nakamichi be using two different volume curves? One for DTS and one for DD?
I don't think that is due to the nakamichi. DTS has a different t
Dynamic compression setting so it almost always is louder at the same level as Dolby.
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post #1865 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 07:11 AM
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New setup

New owner of Shockwafe 9.2 and first post on this site. After reading all 62 pages I had no doubts about which soundbar was right for me. Felt I had to thank this forum for all the great info. When I began the setup everything fell into place because of what I learned on this site. Some background on my stup. I have a 13x23 dedicated media room with 4 HT theater chairs instead of a couch. Unfortunately I have to put them close to the wall so no room for rear speakers. Have the satellites mounted vertical on Atlantic stands and placed to the sides of the seating. Speakers are set to dipole, 45” high and angled where one directs sound slightly behind seating area and the other towards center of listening area. Wife and I sit in the two middle chairs and sound is great but not sure how it will be when we have guest and people have the satellites close to them. One thing I wanted to share is my experience with hearing Dolby Atmos with my current system. I have the 2019 LG 65” OLED tv and it has Atmos and Dolby Vision. Yesterday I opened the Dolby app on the tv and there was a demo for both. Called the wife in and we were both blown away. We agreed that in the “rain scene “ we both looked up because it sounded like it was coming from above. Imagine what it will be like after the firmware upgrade. I like the rest of you are counting the days until we can share our experiences with the new features. Anybody have an idea on how big the file will be for the new upgrade. I may have to go buy a bigger flash drive.
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post #1866 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 08:44 AM
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Ok while we anxiously await the Dolby firmware drop I have a general question regarding ARC. I wil preface this by freely admitting that I have never really understood what ARC is nor why it is advantageous. As it turns out my 2016 OLED TV cannot pass Atmos over ARC; it only passes Dolby 5.1. It also does not pass Dolby Digital + which would at least give me lossy Atmos. It’s unclear to this day why the 2016 OLEDs have this limitation; could be stupidity on LG’s part (likely) or it could be a hardware limitation of some sort. Regardless it is what it is and I have to live with it because I’m not giving up the awesome 3D that comes along with the 2016 sets.

So my question is this: if after I apply the Nak Dolby update and I set up the cabling according to Nak’s recommendation ( i.e. source HDMI Cables go directly to HDMI inputs 2-4 on the sound bar and a single HDMI cable goes from HDMI 1 ARC on the sound bar to HDMI 2 ARC on the LG) will I *only* get Dolby 5.1 sound out of my Nak with this setup because of the limitations of the 2016 LGs?
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post #1867 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 09:12 AM
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Anyone else have the Pro 7.1 DTS:X model? I'm excited to see we will get the Atmos firmware update as well! How would this affect speaker placement since we only have 2 rears? Any thoughts or suggestions? I love my Naka and I've never experienced Atmos so this was an unexpected surprise when I discovered this today.
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post #1868 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RickD_99 View Post
Ok while we anxiously await the Dolby firmware drop I have a general question regarding ARC.
While there is more to it, ARC essentially is a two way connection meaning you can send audio to the soundbar while the TV is on another input or you can send video to the TV while the soundbar is receiving another input.

The newer LG models have actually the most ARC on the market, and was top of the line in 2016 (2017 and beyond have been able to pass some lossy form of Atmos but they don't transcode DD+ back to DD to my knowledge).

I think that except for video game mode, or if you have more than 3 sources, you should run all to the soundbar and then to the TV. You'll get everything that way (assuming DV pass through is enabled on this update as well). I still plan on running my Xbox and any other gaming systems I may add straight to the TV then to the bar because I use different video settings whereas the Shield and BluRay player should be fine with the same settings/calibration.

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post #1869 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:15 AM
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I have the same issue but didn’t do a reset after the update. I’ll have to try that later. With my setup after I updated I noticed that sometimes on the same source being my xfinity box and on the same channel 60 can be nice and loud and other times I have to go to 70plus because 60 you can barely hear. And other times when watching a movie with great sound effect upper 80s even low 90s doesn’t seem impressively loud like I’d expect. Pre update 75 was super loud now in the 90s doesn’t even seem close to as loud
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post #1870 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyM View Post
While there is more to it, ARC essentially is a two way connection meaning you can send audio to the soundbar while the TV is on another input or you can send video to the TV while the soundbar is receiving another input.
Why would you want to do this? Can you give me some use cases where you would utilize this feature? Maybe watching a YouTube fireplace video while listening to your own custom Xmas music?

Quote:
I think that except for video game mode, or if you have more than 3 sources, you should run all to the soundbar and then to the TV. You'll get everything that way (assuming DV pass through is enabled on this update as well). I still plan on running my Xbox and any other gaming systems I may add straight to the TV then to the bar because I use different video settings whereas the Shield and BluRay player should be fine with the same settings/calibration.
OK so with Nak’s recommended cabling setup I should still get full blown multichannel Atmos sound from a bitstreaming source such as my Oppo 203? I’m assuming from the example I gave above that I would set my LG to HDMI ARC 2 and set the Nak to HDMI 2 (assuming the HDMI cable from the Oppo 203 was plugged into HDMI port 2 on the Nak)...

Also another question: does using the ARC functionality require that HDMI-CEC controls be turned on for both the TV and the sound bar?

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post #1871 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:27 AM
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I hope it works for you but I’m wired this way also and for some reason only my XFINITY box can get Dolby digital. When I try my Apple TV plugged into any hdmi on the soundbar I only get pcm. Regardless of the settings in the Apple TV and regardless of the content “prime video Netflix etc”
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyM View Post
While there is more to it, ARC essentially is a two way connection meaning you can send audio to the soundbar while the TV is on another input or you can send video to the TV while the soundbar is receiving another input.
Why would you want to do this? Can you give me some use cases where you would utilize this feature? Maybe watching a YouTube fireplace video while listening to your own custom Xmas music? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Quote:
I think that except for video game mode, or if you have more than 3 sources, you should run all to the soundbar and then to the TV. You'll get everything that way (assuming DV pass through is enabled on this update as well). I still plan on running my Xbox and any other gaming systems I may add straight to the TV then to the bar because I use different video settings whereas the Shield and BluRay player should be fine with the same settings/calibration.
OK so with Nak’s recommended cabling setup I should still get full blown multichannel Atmos sound from a bitstreaming source such as my Oppo 203? I’m assuming from the example I gave above that I would set my LG to HDMI ARC 2 and set the Nak to HDMI 2 (assuming the HDMI cable from the Oppo 203 was plugged into HDMI port 2 on the Nak)...

Also another question: does using the ARC functionality require that HDMI-CEC controls be turned on for both the TV and the sound bar?
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post #1872 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:30 AM
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And using that arc connection enables me to control the soundbar volume and power from my xfinity remote. Actually not sure if it’s the cec or the arc that enables that but with a tv that doesn’t allow 5.1 pass through this is the only way I can get Dolby audio. Wired any other way I just get pcm
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I hope it works for you but I’m wired this way also and for some reason only my XFINITY box can get Dolby digital. When I try my Apple TV plugged into any hdmi on the soundbar I only get pcm. Regardless of the settings in the Apple TV and regardless of the content “prime video Netflix etc”
Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyM View Post
While there is more to it, ARC essentially is a two way connection meaning you can send audio to the soundbar while the TV is on another input or you can send video to the TV while the soundbar is receiving another input.
Why would you want to do this? Can you give me some use cases where you would utilize this feature? Maybe watching a YouTube fireplace video while listening to your own custom Xmas music? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Quote:
I think that except for video game mode, or if you have more than 3 sources, you should run all to the soundbar and then to the TV. You'll get everything that way (assuming DV pass through is enabled on this update as well). I still plan on running my Xbox and any other gaming systems I may add straight to the TV then to the bar because I use different video settings whereas the Shield and BluRay player should be fine with the same settings/calibration.
OK so with Nak’s recommended cabling setup I should still get full blown multichannel Atmos sound from a bitstreaming source such as my Oppo 203? I’m assuming from the example I gave above that I would set my LG to HDMI ARC 2 and set the Nak to HDMI 2 (assuming the HDMI cable from the Oppo 203 was plugged into HDMI port 2 on the Nak)...

Also another question: does using the ARC functionality require that HDMI-CEC controls be turned on for both the TV and the sound bar?
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post #1873 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RickD_99 View Post
Why would you want to do this? Can you give me some use cases where you would utilize this feature? Maybe watching a YouTube fireplace video while listening to your own custom Xmas music?
Let's say you use smart apps built into the TV - the only way to send the audio to the soundbar is with the ARC channel. Or maybe (like me) you want to run certain sources with unique video settings (game mode/lag calibration) so you will run the inputs from the game console to the TV, then the ARC sends the audio to the bar.

But if you're sending sources to the bar first, to prioritize the highest quality audio, the ARC doubles as the video out - it's really only an "input" when it's getting audio from the TV. So really you are using ARC whether you like it or not. On the TV however - ARC is both an input and an output.

Essentially if you have it, you're going to use it. Otherwise you're stuck using an optical or other legacy input from the TV to the soundbar for any sources that may run to the TV first, or you are limited to only having audio from sources that can go straight to the bar.

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post #1874 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 11:35 AM
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Anybody have an idea on how big the file will be for the new upgrade.
If you go to this firmware download page, the current 1.0C firmware for the 9.2 is just 2MB. It's currently very small. But true I guess with how major of any update the Dolby Atmos/Dolby Vision is, it certainly could be a much larger file this time. So who knows at this point - but I couldn't image it would be larger than 1GB (500x larger than 1.0C). So in theory most any USB 2.0 flashdrive will probably work as long it's 1GB to 32GB and FAT16 or FAT32 file formatted.

https://www.helpdesk.nakamichi-usa.c...pgrade-ultra92

Last edited by johngettler; 12-05-2018 at 11:44 AM.
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post #1875 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave ev-n-spread View Post
I hope it works for you but I’m wired this way also and for some reason only my XFINITY box can get Dolby digital. When I try my Apple TV plugged into any hdmi on the soundbar I only get pcm. Regardless of the settings in the Apple TV and regardless of the content “prime video Netflix etc”
Hmm that is disturbing to say the least. I’m definitely going to wait until the Nak Dolby firmware drops before I start fiddling with ARC. Right now all my sources are behaving as I want them to but I still am keen on simplifying my cabling if possible.

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post #1876 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 12:13 PM
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ARC is audio return channel. An hdmi cable from a soundbar or AVR carries both the video AND the audio. Prior to ARC, this was a one way street. The TV could not send audio back to the Avr or sound bar. Then the TVs started to get apps like Netflix. And you could only get sound via tv speaker. So they come out with ARC. Now that same cable can receive audio from the TV. (This could be done with optical audio as well to get TV sound out, however optical aka TOSlink has a lower bandwidth).
The current problem with HDMI 2.0 and most TVs is there is a not enough bandwidth on ARC to send higher fidelity Atmos and True Dolby HD sound. Just Dolby Digital 5.1 or sometimes Dolby Digital Plus. It’s all TV dependent.

Long story short, if you want Atmos thne plug directly to the bar and not the TV first. The Nak should pass Dolby Vision through on the next update for TVs that support it.
For a gaming system, most TV can’t pass Atmos back to the bar, so it’s your priority if you want game mode or better sound. Or use an HDFury AvrKey device to split the audio from the video and run 2 hdmi cables out of the device (1 to TV and One to Soundbar).
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post #1877 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyM View Post
Let's say you use smart apps built into the TV - the only way to send the audio to the soundbar is with the ARC channel. Or maybe (like me) you want to run certain sources with unique video settings (game mode/lag calibration) so you will run the inputs from the game console to the TV, then the ARC sends the audio to the bar.

But if you're sending sources to the bar first, to prioritize the highest quality audio, the ARC doubles as the video out - it's really only an "input" when it's getting audio from the TV. So really you are using ARC whether you like it or not. On the TV however - ARC is both an input and an output.

Essentially if you have it, you're going to use it. Otherwise you're stuck using an optical or other legacy input from the TV to the soundbar for any sources that may run to the TV first, or you are limited to only having audio from sources that can go straight to the bar.
Ahhh OK I understand what you are saying now...ARC is mainly for onboard apps and devices directly connected to the TV. Right now I am using the optical connection from the TV to the Nak for DirecTV, onboard apps like Netflix, and OTA broadcasts. However once the Nak Dolby firmware drops I will definitely try the ARC approach in the hopes of simplifying my horrendous cable vomit situation behind my TV! Thanks for taking the time Corey!

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post #1878 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 12:49 PM
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ARC is audio return channel. An hdmi cable from a soundbar or AVR carries both the video AND the audio. Prior to ARC, this was a one way street. The TV could not send audio back to the Avr or sound bar. Then the TVs started to get apps like Netflix. And you could only get sound via tv speaker. So they come out with ARC. Now that same cable can receive audio from the TV. (This could be done with optical audio as well to get TV sound out, however optical aka TOSlink has a lower bandwidth).
The current problem with HDMI 2.0 and most TVs is there is a not enough bandwidth on ARC to send higher fidelity Atmos and True Dolby HD sound. Just Dolby Digital 5.1 or sometimes Dolby Digital Plus. It’s all TV
Thanks for the explanation. For getting Atmos from streaming services like Netflix and Vudu the Nvidia Shield would be my choice over the Apple TV based on all the reviews I have read so far. But unfortunately the Shield does not yet support Dolby Vision and I refuse to spend money on a kneecapped product as compared to their competitors like Apple TV and Amazon Fire TV that do support DV. Wish Nvidia would get off their butts and support DV already...

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post #1879 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for the explanation. For getting Atmos from streaming services like Netflix and Vudu the Nvidia Shield would be my choice over the Apple TV based on all the reviews I have read so far. But unfortunately the Shield does not yet support Dolby Vision and I refuse to spend money on a kneecapped product as compared to their competitors like Apple TV and Amazon Fire TV that do support DV. Wish Nvidia would get off their butts and support DV already...[/QUOTE]

I would just wait a few weeks and see what happens with the Nak update. Then you’ll know what devices work best. I plan to run the Apple TV 4K and Xbox One X through the bar. Xfintiy box to TV. With the constantly changing tech, it’s near impossible to get a perfect setup with all features working 100%. My Samsung TV doesn’t have Dolby Vision, and no TV has eARC yet....
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post #1880 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RickD_99 View Post
Thanks for the explanation. For getting Atmos from streaming services like Netflix and Vudu the Nvidia Shield would be my choice over the Apple TV based on all the reviews I have read so far. But unfortunately the Shield does not yet support Dolby Vision and I refuse to spend money on a kneecapped product as compared to their competitors like Apple TV and Amazon Fire TV that do support DV. Wish Nvidia would get off their butts and support DV already...
I have three shields. I'm biased. But get a shield. When the content is there, they'll support Dolby Vision. There just isn't all that much of it. Consider that right now it is a total niche that is only supported by a handful of TVs and even it's primary delivery method (UHD) only a handful of those players.

If I need DV from a streaming app I can get it other ways than my Shield. The Shield does so many things well and unless you have a large movie library from the Apple Store, it's the way to go. Especially if any of the following interest you: Plex, Kodi, GeForce Now/Steam gaming, retro console emulation/MAME.

Anyhow, Shields are awesome. Especially if you're an Android user.

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post #1881 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 02:38 PM
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I have three shields. I'm biased. But get a shield. When the content is there, they'll support Dolby Vision. There just isn't all that much of it. Consider that right now it is a total niche that is only supported by a handful of TVs and even it's primary delivery method (UHD) only a handful of those players.

If I need DV from a streaming app I can get it other ways than my Shield. The Shield does so many things well and unless you have a large movie library from the Apple Store, it's the way to go. Especially if any of the following interest you: Plex, Kodi, GeForce Now/Steam gaming, retro console emulation/MAME.

Anyhow, Shields are awesome. Especially if you're an Android user.
I agree that Shields are awesome when you consider all the things that they can do. I love the small form factor that the newest units offer. It’s just that it doesn’t do the one thing (DV) that I value the most in a modern streamer. I purchased my 2016 OLED primarily because of LG’s early support of DV (and of course the perfect blacks as well) and I just can’t justify purchasing something that doesn’t support a format that my TV excels at.

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post #1882 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 02:45 PM
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I agree that Shields are awesome when you consider all the things that they can do. I love the small form factor that the newest units offer. It’s just that it doesn’t do the one thing (DV) that I value the most in a modern streamer. I purchased my 2016 OLED primarily because of LG’s early support of DV (and of course the perfect blacks as well) and I just can’t justify purchasing something that doesn’t support a format that my TV excels at.
Fair, if it's important to you it's important. I too have an LG OLED. I feel like IF I need DV, I can get it in other ways (my UHD player will stream it or I can use the TV built in apps). If it's the only device you have, that's tough I guess (but I still question the amount of content available.

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post #1883 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 03:41 PM
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I don't think that is due to the nakamichi. DTS has a different t
Dynamic compression setting so it almost always is louder at the same level as Dolby.
Thank you. That makes sense.
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post #1884 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 04:28 PM
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Hey Guys,
Have the 7.2 elite version. Have a couple questions that I was hoping the experts/audiophiles here could answer.

My setup:
Apple TV 4K connected to Naka; ARC from TV to Naka
Xbox One X connected to Naka

1. For some reason, the center channel is not as loud as I would want it to be. I am literally scrambling for the remote if I am playing an action movie to turn it down if there are guns fired or thumping music (this drives me wife crazy too... but I see her point (or at least want to, LOL). It is somehow even lower with iTunes 4K movies, but just in general, even blue ray discs the center channel sounds weak. I already have the center channel bumped up to level 10. Any ideas what I may be doing incorrectly?
Movie setting
  • 1. Neural X
  • 2. Movie DSP
  • 3. Stero OFF
  • 4. Center channel:10
  • 5. SR - 3
  • 6. SB - 3
  • 7. Bass - 3

2. With the TV OS 12 release, some of my friends that have Atmos capable bars can see the 'atmospheric audio' option. I have the latest TV OS version but don't seem to see it. I know Naka will be releasing a firmware in Q1 next year for the 7.2 to give it the Atmos capability, but wanted to see if anyone with the 9.2 or 7.2 can see the atmospheric audio option. Apple recommends revisiting the setup if you don't see the option.
I have tried a couple HDMI cables, thinking that may be the problem, but to no avail

Thanks in advance folks
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post #1885 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Praag View Post
Any ideas what I may be doing incorrectly?
Trying hitting the NIGHT button until you see "DRC O" (DRC OFF) on the LED.

Then try hitting the SUR ON button to turn 9.2 Surround On.

I got my Nakamichi 9.2 into a weird mode last night after hitting the NIGHT button a bunch of times, where I felt like my center channel and maybe the entire front sound bar was completely OFF. Only hitting SUR button to turn all surrounds channels ON fixed it. So maybe you are in the same weird mode.

Last edited by johngettler; 12-05-2018 at 04:42 PM.
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post #1886 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by johngettler View Post
Trying hitting the NIGHT button until you see DRC 0 on the LED.

Then try hitting the SUR ON button to turn 9.2 Surround On.

I got my Nakamichi 9.2 into a weird mode last night after hitting the NIGHT button a bunch of times, where I felt like my center channel and maybe the entire front sound bar was completely OFF. Only hitting SUR button to turn all surrounds channels ON fixed it. So maybe you are in the same weird mode.
Thank you! Will try that out tonight. Just out of curiosity - what does the NIGHT mode do exactly? I see DRC OFF, DRC 50 and DRC100

Appreciate the inputs!
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post #1887 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Praag View Post
what does the NIGHT mode do exactly?
NIGHT mode is also called DRC (Dynamic Range Compression), or Volume Normalization.

Owner's manual says "Night mode feature normalizes the overall volume loudness to avoid sudden changes in loudness. This feature is available with DTS:X and Dolby content via HDMI, HDMI ARC, Optical and Coaxial Inputs.

DRC 100 - 100% of volume normalization, perfect for night time listening
DRC 50 - 50% of volume normalization
DRC OFF - Volume Normalization Off"

Personally, I would think a typical NIGHT mode would remove the bass in order to not wake up people in the house with rumbling. But that actually isn't what it explains. It's explanation is more like a "Loud Commercial" feature where sudden changes in loudness are evened out. Or perhaps explosions might be not as loud, once they are "evened out", etc.

It has not really worked for me - I have ignored it for about a month, and then pressing it last night when listening to DOLBY input via HDMI ARC, seemed to "shutoff my front soundbar". And pressing SUR ON was the only solution.
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Last edited by johngettler; 12-05-2018 at 05:02 PM.
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post #1888 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by johngettler View Post
If you go to this firmware download page, the current 1.0C firmware for the 9.2 is just 2MB. It's currently very small. But true I guess with how major of any update the Dolby Atmos/Dolby Vision is, it certainly could be a much larger file this time. So who knows at this point - but I couldn't image it would be larger than 1GB (500x larger than 1.0C). So in theory most any USB 2.0 flashdrive will probably work as long it's 1GB to 32GB and FAT16 or FAT32 file formatted.



https://www.helpdesk.nakamichi-usa.c...pgrade-ultra92


Ray from Nakamichi told me it won’t be a much larger file than the current ones.:.. and they are already tiny compared to many other FW files I’ve downloaded over the years (I think 1.0c when unzipped is 4 megs..)


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post #1889 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post
Ray from Nakamichi told me it won’t be a much larger file than the current ones.:.. and they are already tiny compared to many other FW files I’ve downloaded over the years (I think 1.0c when unzipped is 4 megs..)


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Did he give an idea of the release date?

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post #1890 of 5304 Old 12-05-2018, 10:32 PM
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Did he give an idea of the release date?

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No.


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