Samsung HW-N950 Soundbar 7.1.4 Dolby Atmos - Page 43 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1261 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by UnfoldingSquid View Post
If you want teeth rattling, knock pictures off the walls bass then this probably isn't the soundbar for you. The biggest complaint on the k950 was how overwhelming the subwoofer could be, I agreed with that sentiment. The sub for the n950 is perfect for me, medium bass that accentuates what I'm watching without being overbearing. My sub is set to +2 so it could be louder if that's what you like, but I wouldn't say it was room shaking compared to the k950.



I have the Rocketfish universal mounts from Best Buy, work fine for me.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketf...?skuId=5149022

I've been thinking about getting two of these and trying them out though, look a little cleaner.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketf...?skuId=5802800
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Originally Posted by New24K View Post
Has anyone wall mounted their rear speakers...?
@New24K Yes I wall mounted mine.

@New24K and @UnfoldingSquid I used these mounts. A little pricey but they work great and at the time I was having a hard time ensuring any of the ones I was looking at would correctly mount the rears. These were the only ones I could find that matched the info in the manual so I took the dive and bought them.
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post #1262 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by New_to_4K View Post
I think Sub is as powerful as K950. I have mine set at +2 and it still rattles. For K950, I've used higher for non-Atmos. The Soundbar in N950 is overall more powerful than K950.
Hi. Which soundbar do you prefer between the Z9F and the N950 ? I saw you owned the Sony Z9F and also that with this soundbar you were able to hear sound from directions that you have never heard compared to K850, SJ9, SK10Y and ST5000.
Thank you.
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post #1263 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tifa3 View Post
when fast forwarding in netflix, i noticed there's a slight popping sound from the rear speakers after I click on play, is that normal? like it's trying to quickly reconnect.. can someone test if that happens to their rear speakers?
Have you tried resetting the BT connection (ID SET procedure) on your speakers? Press and hold the ID SET button on each of your rears and sub until they are all rapidly blinking blue, then select and hold the UP button on your remote until the soundbar displays "ID SET". All speakers will glow solid blue when connection is re-established. It's worth a shot...
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post #1264 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 05:11 AM
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I received my N950 yesterday. It is replacing my Yamaha YSP-5600. I've been in the Yamaha line of soundbars since the beginning, and it was a big "leap of faith" to move to Samsung.

Sound wise, i am extremely impressed. The ATMOS is 5 fold better than the YSP, the subwoofer was may main initial concern and (amazingly enough) is keeping up with what my SVS sub did.

However, i am perplexed that I cannot find discrete remote control codes for the inputs on the sound bar. This totally broke the way i integrated everything with my Harmony remote, and forced me to remove some inputs to get consistent switching. I understand how ARC works etc, but this isn't sufficient for my setup. Am i missing something, as i cannot believe a $1600 high end audio soundbar doesn't have discrete remote codes?

Last edited by sstiglich; 10-03-2018 at 06:38 AM.
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post #1265 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by markpow1 View Post
I have it run to my TV's Arc port (sony 940e).. and now my options with the soundbar are switching between HDMI 1 and 2. is this correct? I thought before I could also select TV Arc, i'm confused if I'm on the right input. I think not. Does it sound like I need to reset the soundbar? Or is it just not using the ARC feature for some reason..



When I start netflix on tv app's it doesn't switch over. Problem is though I looked through all my tv settings and don't see anything i'm missing..


Edit/update: I had bravia Sync off. I tried to turn on/off everything the CATV box audio comes through which is on the HDMI1 input but the video does not come through this way. Does this sound like a soundbar or tv issue? and what would you recommend easiest way to bypass or fix..?


On input of TV arc it does properly play the TV apps
So currently I have to disable bravia sync(arc control) on the tv and put it on HDMI1 to watch cable tv. I do have a Monoprice 4 switch could I use this somehow to fix?
I received my hw n950 on Monday and wow what a huge difference compared to my Sony z9f, I'm in love with it. I relocated the z9f to my bedroom and kept n950 in livingroom,not sure if I'm gonna sell z9f or keep it. Music sounds so rich on n950 the base sounds so good and clean. I'm using PERLESMITH Adjustable Height Speaker Stands for the rears. Someone had asked a page back so they work perfectly fine.
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post #1266 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conazo View Post
I received my hw n950 on Monday and wow what a huge difference compared to my Sony z9f, I'm in love with it. I relocated the z9f to my bedroom and kept n950 in livingroom,not sure if I'm gonna sell z9f or keep it. Music sounds so rich on n950 the base sounds so good and clean. I'm using PERLESMITH Adjustable Height Speaker Stands for the rears. Someone had asked a page back so they work perfectly fine.
The difference between the N950 and the Z9F is so huge ?
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post #1267 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 09:06 AM
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The difference between the N950 and the Z9F is so huge ?
Yes it is!
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post #1268 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
I have had the N950 since September 8 almost a month now. I have the. 1003 firmware and after a reset all seems to be working okay Except for a couple minor cec quirks. I have floated between the standard and smart mode liking the standard best it replicates the sounds as they were recorded,is warmer less harsh, although the base is somewhat stronger it is my preference at the moment. This is by far in my opinion the best sounding soundbar I have had to date. If Samsung could add a couple of features it would be even better. Individual speaker control etc.
I honestly didn't think there would be a quality difference between Standard and Smart. I think I'm gonna try Standard for a little while and see how it compares to Smart to see which one I prefer. I never really bothered with using Standard. Thanks for your thoughts
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post #1269 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by conazo View Post
Yes it is!
I tried a lgsk10y between my k950 and N950 and the difference to me was mamouth.

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post #1270 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sstiglich View Post
I received my N950 yesterday. It is replacing my Yamaha YSP-5600. I've been in the Yamaha line of soundbars since the beginning, and it was a big "leap of faith" to move to Samsung.

Sound wise, i am extremely impressed. The ATMOS is 5 fold better than the YSP, the subwoofer was may main initial concern and (amazingly enough) is keeping up with what my SVS sub did.

However, i am perplexed that I cannot find discrete remote control codes for the inputs on the sound bar. This totally broke the way i integrated everything with my Harmony remote, and forced me to remove some inputs to get consistent switching. I understand how ARC works etc, but this isn't sufficient for my setup. Am i missing something, as i cannot believe a $1600 high end audio soundbar doesn't have discrete remote codes?
I have just purchased harmony and have this soundbar, could you give me some pointers of your work around? thanks
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post #1271 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by thegr812k View Post
I have just purchased harmony and have this soundbar, could you give me some pointers of your work around? thanks
I am using an external LIGAWO 4k HDR switcher, 5 inputs, 1 output. The output goes into HDMI 1 on the sound bar, and the soundbar goes to HDMI 1 on the TV. All other inputs/cables removed from the soundbar and the TV.

Basically the TV and soundbar never switch inputs, only the external switcher.

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post #1272 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william06 View Post
I have had the N950 since September 8 almost a month now. I have the. 1003 firmware and after a reset all seems to be working okay Except for a couple minor cec quirks. I have floated between the standard and smart mode liking the standard best it replicates the sounds as they were recorded,is warmer less harsh, although the base is somewhat stronger it is my preference at the moment. This is by far in my opinion the best sounding soundbar I have had to date. If Samsung could add a couple of features it would be even better. Individual speaker control etc.
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Originally Posted by manuman888 View Post
I honestly didn't think there would be a quality difference between Standard and Smart. I think I'm gonna try Standard for a little while and see how it compares to Smart to see which one I prefer. I never really bothered with using Standard. Thanks for your thoughts
To hear some owners perspectives, I wonder why Smart and Standard mode sound different. Smart is suppose to analyze the signal, then choose the best way to process it. I am curious how each mode handles 5.1 and Atmos content and if the rears come in to play in either mode.
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post #1273 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaHiDef View Post
To hear some owners perspectives, I wonder why Smart and Standard mode sound different. Smart is suppose to analyze the signal, then choose the best way to process it. I am curious how each mode handles 5.1 and Atmos content and if the rears come in to play in either mode.
The rears come into play in both when they are supposed to. I just find the smart mode sounds a little brittle and harsh to my ears and the standard mode seems warmer and have a bit more depth to me. I believe standard might be a slight bit more inclined to produce what was intended.
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post #1274 of 3141 Old 10-03-2018, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by epidimik View Post
Vizio P65

N950

I'm having issues connecting.


Plugged soundbar into power. HDMI from OUT to ARC HDMI 1 on TV. Apple TV 4K into HDMI 1, XBOX One X into HDMI 2.

Turn TV on HDMI 1, both devices on, sound bar on, no video on TV.

Anyone have any issues like this?
I have the same setup: Vizio P-65C1, Apple TV4K on HDMI 1, Xbox One X on HDMI 2

First, make sure you do not have "Full UHD Color" toggled on for HDMI 1 on the TV. I do not get picture or sound
if this is enabled.

Second, I have issues getting a picture if I have the device on first, then switch to HDMI 1 on the tv. If for example I turn my ATV on, the TV will switch to HDMI 1 but I will usually not get a picture, but I will have sound. If I click on the ATV remote touch pad and/or push the menu button, the picture will usually appear after a few seconds.

What does seem to work is to first switch to the soundbar input you want THEN turn the device on. If i set my tv to HDMI 1 then switch the soundbar to HDMI 2 then lastly turn my xbox on, I will normally have no issues with the picture.

if you're running your xbox thru the soundbar, your xbox will likely show that your TV does not support HDR for games. This is because "full UHD color" needs to be on for the input your xbox is connected to. If I connect my xbox directly to any HDMI port on the TV, including 1, I have no issues turning full UHD color on. But i get no picture or sound thru the soundbar if I enable this. I purchased 18GB HDMI 2.0 cables and they didn't help.

On the plus side, Ive had almost no ARC dropout issues.

Unfortunately, you confirmed my fear that there is an issue between the P65 and N950.
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post #1275 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by rg9400 View Post
I received this switch yesterday. It works, but anytime my devices are all off, to get it to output video again, I need to disconnect and reconnect the HDMI out. Does this happen with you as well? Is there a better switch that handles all these formats?
I own and use both Roofull 5x1 switches with my K950. This one:

is usually pretty good.

Their older one:

can get cantankerous and has a reputation for this. I usually can just turn it off with the remote which takes several attempts in my system as it wants to turn right back on. Usually once you have it off all the way it does seem to recover it. You can try unplugging the units. Hopefully the N950 is an improvement, but once in a blue moon I have to unplug the soundbar from the wall for 10 seconds or so if it won't accept Atmos.
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post #1276 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 04:40 AM
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Not sure? Do these do Dolby Vision Pass thru?
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Originally Posted by meles View Post
I own and use both Roofull 5x1 switches with my K950. This one:

is usually pretty good.

Their older one:

can get cantankerous and has a reputation for this. I usually can just turn it off with the remote which takes several attempts in my system as it wants to turn right back on. Usually once you have it off all the way it does seem to recover it. You can try unplugging the units. Hopefully the N950 is an improvement, but once in a blue moon I have to unplug the soundbar from the wall for 10 seconds or so if it won't accept Atmos.
Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
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post #1277 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 06:44 AM
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Not sure about the bottom one. but the top one does dolby vision pass thru.
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Not sure? Do these do Dolby Vision Pass thru?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
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post #1278 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 09:38 AM
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I have the bottom one, and it did DV passthrough. It was just way too frustrating to use though, and I wasn't sure I was getting any benefit in my use case. I ended up removing it from my setup.

I'm not sure if the PS4 Pro would sound any different over ARC vs connected directly to the soundbar, but I only have 2 devices that need to be connected to the soundbar, as in, that actually send Atmos. I'm not sure if there's any benefit to a direct connection to the soundbar if the device doesn't output Atmos.
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post #1279 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 01:54 PM
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I have the bottom one, and it did DV passthrough. It was just way too frustrating to use though, and I wasn't sure I was getting any benefit in my use case. I ended up removing it from my setup.

I'm not sure if the PS4 Pro would sound any different over ARC vs connected directly to the soundbar, but I only have 2 devices that need to be connected to the soundbar, as in, that actually send Atmos. I'm not sure if there's any benefit to a direct connection to the soundbar if the device doesn't output Atmos.

Depends on what the source is outputting. If you have PS4 outputting LPCM 5.1/7.1 then ARC will only allow 2.0 I believe. You're fine if you use DTS or Dolby Digital 5.1, but they are the more compressed versions. You won't be able to pass Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD, common codecs used in Bluray movies, over ARC.
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post #1280 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 06:43 PM
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Would it impact games? I don't use the ps4 to watch blurays, but I do extensively use it for games.

I think some games are 7.1, but I'm not sure if that can go over ARC as long as it isn't atmos
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post #1281 of 3141 Old 10-04-2018, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by x3angel View Post
Not sure? Do these do Dolby Vision Pass thru?

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I've not tested myself, but in this thread one of them has been doing Dolby Vision pass through. If it says it can do it on Amazon, then you can try it in your system. If it goes belly up then return. I've been returning a lot of hdmi splitters and switches to Amazon. They are easy to deal with, but I did get a bit of static as I've had about 8 returns this Summer.

I use both of those splitters. The newer one is the better (the top one), but I'm not sure which one was being used in this thread which is why I posted the pictures. The one I like looks like an Awakelion (and that is in fact what I have.) Amazon reviewer responded and that was his thoughts on the two.

While here and I'm going to throw some water on the N950 vs the K950 simply based on going price (almost half for new K950). The issue is Atmos upmixing and ARC. When you are playing non-Atmos material via the improved ARC of the N950 you are restricted to the upmixing onboard the N950. It sounds like Samsung has done some impressive stuff for audio with the N950, but for upmixing multi-channel music or non-Atmos sound tracks with the K950 using an Xbox One S (or X or Dolby Access app on windows 10 device) blows away the Samsung's onboard upmixing. PIA to make the K950 to receive Atmos all the time, but for extremists I'm not confident that the N950's new onboard upmixing is better than the Dolby Access app on Xbox and Windows 10.

I am a horrible tight wad so I'm sitting back and waiting for the chips to fall with the N950. I'm also biased because my room is very far from ideal for the new side firing speakers on the N950. I've disabled ARC on my K950 because of erratic behavior and its been wonderful. As most are reporting here DTS:X is not the best. I can play DTS:X discs on my Xbox which takes them to Atmos and the one I've heard was quite dry sounding much like others are reporting for the N950 doing proper DTS:X. The problem with all sound bars before the N950 and possibly including it is the Dolby Atmos Upmixing which is a large portion of what one listens to despite the rampant success of Atmos. With my K950 I'll often with lesser Atmos soundtracks (the majority) I often prefer to upmix for the more intiment dialog and better music. And yes, for obvious parts of these lesser Atmos tracks where the action indicates real Atmos is best I cheat and switch to the original Atmos track.

I'm also deeply disturbed by the reports in this thread of the neutering (neutralizing) of the bass. The K950 can be crazy boomy and awesome if placed in a corner, but with proper placement it can be tamed to something very neutral and yet still awesome. I love to wallow in bass and apartment dwellers probably should flock to the N950. I know some are saying the bass is similar in this thread, but most say its tighter. I love tight bass so I'm very envious of these reports in some way on the N950. If this is the case this is a huge asset. AVSers need to clarify the differences. I may have a friend of friend who may already have an N950 so I'm hoping to hear the wonders of the N950, but remain skeptical because the K950s bass output is prodigious and wonderful.

Others are talking about music with the K950. I need to read through this thread more on the subject, but here are my takes on the K950. Bluetooth on the K950 is sad with most sources as it just seems to use the front two channels. Youtube through the Xbox one S upmixed just annihilates the blue tooth. So Kudos to the N950 if the bluetooth sounds good now and uses proper upmixing. If you have HD audio files in stereo (OK) or multi-channel (revelation) your best bet is using the dolby access app to upmix with the K950. Audiophiles with expensive two channel systems will be impressed with multi-channel upmixed by Dolby Access app (Xbox or Windows 10).


So please excuse me for throwing some water on the seemingly excellent N950, but for extremists on a budget the K950 may get the job done for less and I'm unclear on whether the N950 or K950 has the most bass. For 99% of normal people I'd run towards the N950 and the improved ARC and not worry about any upmixing gains of an Xbox over the N950. For extreme enthusiasts I've posted this because Xbox Upmixing so much better than the K950's for at least 95% of material plus the huge, huge music gains with HD multichannel audio upmixed. Pardon the intrusion by a N950 skeptic.

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post #1282 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 08:06 AM
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Okay, so I bought a Q9FN TV ahead of schedule, so I'm rewiring my home theatre. In doing so, I discovered something interesting:

ATV 4K, when hooked directly to the TV, no longer supports Atmos—in fact, it doesn't even recognize the signal as Dolby Digital Plus, and is outputting standard Dolby Digital 5.1 via ARC. In order to achieve ATMOS from ATV 4K, I have to re-connect it to the N950. I was hoping that I could free up an HDMI port on the soundbar, but I guess that won't be possible.

Also, are we sure that Apple TV 4K is not outputting 'lossless' ATMOS? See the attached image, which is how Apple describes the selection as their ATV 4K audio output if supported by your AVR. I thought that 'multi-channel PCM' is full, uncompressed audio, and better than Bitstream. Would anybody be able to chime in?
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post #1283 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 08:26 AM
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Yeah, I thought so:

Quote:
Fidelity (high audio resolution): Linear PCM captures and encodes audio without lossy compression.
https://www.loc.gov/preservation/dig...dd000011.shtml

I think Apple TV 4K is sending lossless ATMOS to our N950 soundbars.
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post #1284 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyYYZ View Post
Okay, so I bought a Q9FN TV ahead of schedule, so I'm rewiring my home theatre. In doing so, I discovered something interesting:

ATV 4K, when hooked directly to the TV, no longer supports Atmos—in fact, it doesn't even recognize the signal as Dolby Digital Plus, and is outputting standard Dolby Digital 5.1 via ARC. In order to achieve ATMOS from ATV 4K, I have to re-connect it to the N950. I was hoping that I could free up an HDMI port on the soundbar, but I guess that won't be possible.

Also, are we sure that Apple TV 4K is not outputting 'lossless' ATMOS? See the attached image, which is how Apple describes the selection as their ATV 4K audio output if supported by your AVR. I thought that 'multi-channel PCM' is full, uncompressed audio, and better than Bitstream. Would anybody be able to chime in?
Linear PCM is the device, in this case the ATV, decoding the audio and then sending it to the receiver or soundbar. There's no way to send Atmos as LPCM over ARC, which is why you're aren't getting Atmos this way. If the ATV can be set to Bitsream then you should be able to get DD+ over ARC and get the Atmos signal plugging directly into the TV.
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post #1285 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by UnfoldingSquid View Post
Linear PCM is the device, in this case the ATV, decoding the audio and then sending it to the receiver or soundbar. There's no way to send Atmos as LPCM over ARC, which is why you're aren't getting Atmos this way. If the ATV can be set to Bitsream then you should be able to get DD+ over ARC and get the Atmos signal plugging directly into the TV.
Right, I should have clarified that I was expecting lossy ATMOS (DD+) through ARC to the N950, but DD+ is greyed out and it is only sending DD to the soundbar. It was meant to be a statement, but I realize now that I wasn't clear about it. I'm not sure why my new TV won't allow me to choose DD+ because the ATV is set to "Best Audio Available". When connected to the N950 directly, it continues to say "Best Audio, Atmos" (or similar), which is what I still expected because I already believed that ATV 4K was only capable of DD+ ATMOS anyway.

I guess my only remaining question is actually related to the ATV 4K: When directly connected to the N950—the way I'm going to rewire it—the ATV 4K is, in fact, sending lossless ATMOS to the N950 is in not?
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post #1286 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 10:12 AM
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So can someone confirm if the new firmware is ok to download?

Last edited by lukather101; 10-07-2018 at 01:55 AM.
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post #1287 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 11:47 AM
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Yeah, I thought so:

https://www.loc.gov/preservation/dig...dd000011.shtml

I think Apple TV 4K is sending lossless ATMOS to our N950 soundbars.
Whereas Bitstream "...typically refers to the data format of the output of an encoder, or the data format of the input to a decoder when using data compression."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitstream_format

Based on my research, it would appear that the ATV 4K delivers lossless (uncompressed) ATMOS (for those like me who misunderstood previously posted information), a format that not even my premium UHD player is capable of outputting...but that's for another forum.
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post #1288 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 12:11 PM
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Hi. Which soundbar do you prefer between the Z9F and the N950 ? I saw you owned the Sony Z9F and also that with this soundbar you were able to hear sound from directions that you have never heard compared to K850, SJ9, SK10Y and ST5000.
Thank you.
Do you need to buy a Samsung Smartthings hub in order to setup this soundbar?
I want to activate wifi and configure it to work with the Amazon Echo.
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post #1289 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyYYZ View Post
Right, I should have clarified that I was expecting lossy ATMOS (DD+) through ARC to the N950, but DD+ is greyed out and it is only sending DD to the soundbar. It was meant to be a statement, but I realize now that I wasn't clear about it. I'm not sure why my new TV won't allow me to choose DD+ because the ATV is set to "Best Audio Available". When connected to the N950 directly, it continues to say "Best Audio, Atmos" (or similar), which is what I still expected because I already believed that ATV 4K was only capable of DD+ ATMOS anyway.

I guess my only remaining question is actually related to the ATV 4K: When directly connected to the N950—the way I'm going to rewire it—the ATV 4K is, in fact, sending lossless ATMOS to the N950 is in not?
None of the streaming services support lossless Atmos, the only way to get lossless is with a disc.

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post #1290 of 3141 Old 10-06-2018, 01:08 PM
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None of the streaming services support lossless Atmos, the only way to get lossless is with a disc.
That was my understanding as well. Seems pretty clear-cut and why question it, but Apple's explanation of its ATV 4K audio format is conflicting (and confusing) when they say:

"Audio will be decoded and sent to your equipment as uncompressed multichannel LPCM." (see image attachment above).

Does that mean that it streams compressed audio but then doesn't further compress it with Bitstream? Bitstream isn't an option on my ATV 4K.
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