Samsung HW-N950 Soundbar 7.1.4 Dolby Atmos - Page 78 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2311 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 12:12 AM
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I don’t normal listen higher than 10, that’s pretty loud in my room. But I amped all speakers +6. Bass in even 7 is sufficient, I would move the sub around to see if it helps.
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post #2312 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by davidnwaters View Post
This seems like the problem. With the volume LOUD I have great bass. At normal casual listening levels, it is lacking.

Question to those happy with bass output - what volume level do you listen at? I use 15-18 and the bass is underwhelming.

I used a frequency sweep and an SPL meter, and credit to the 950, the output was relatively consistent db level down to 30Hz. It just isn't punchy with normal content.
Uh, no you are not getting 30Hz out of an 8" driver.
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post #2313 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 06:32 AM
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HW-N950 Firmware support


Has anyone heard of upcoming firmware support to resolve the 5 minute auto power down "feature".


Samsung's support for the HW-MS750 was much better than the support they have provided for their flagship HW-N950 sound bar.


Seemed like ever two or three weeks they were issuing firmware updates and not so much with the N950.


It would be nice if they would let the customers know if they plan to push a firmware update to provide support for EARC in the future; but knowing Samsung that would be the last thing they would offer they just want us to go out an shell out another $1700 for a new setup.


Disappointed with the lack of support of the HW-N950 - maybe they have already moved on.


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post #2314 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidnwaters View Post
This seems like the problem. With the volume LOUD I have great bass. At normal casual listening levels, it is lacking.

Question to those happy with bass output - what volume level do you listen at? I use 15-18 and the bass is underwhelming.

I used a frequency sweep and an SPL meter, and credit to the 950, the output was relatively consistent db level down to 30Hz. It just isn't punchy with normal content.

I have the exact same experience and impressions. I run everything on +6 including the bass, besides the central speaker which is -3. I suppose in order to get added bass we could change into something like -6 on the central and +3 on the others and still have +6 on the subwoofer just to get it increased further compared to the rest.


But this isn't untypical behaviour. The intended dynamic range has been optimised around a specific volume level which tends to be really high. Of course it would, it's supposed to give you realism and entertainment. If a grande exploded right next to you in real life it would be loud, wouldn't it.

This is the whole purpose of DRC. You want to decrease the dynamic range so it better fits your intended volume. The idea is that you are trying to get the same feeling of peaks in the audio even at the lower volume. Of course the sub won't go as deep and give you the same punch at 10-15 volume as it would on 20-30. Same goes for the highs, they won't extended as much etc.. But by compressing the dynamic range you are saying that you don't want there to be the same gap and contrast applied, so it should let the bass go deep and the highs going high even at volume levels where they would not do so if the dynamic range was at it's default levels.

The range between the frequencies gets squashed/compressed so you won't need the same volume level to achieve the lowest and highest in the range.


Some might confuse DRC with things like "Night Mode", but features like various night modes don't only compress the dynamic range but they do also aggressively cuts out, especially the lower frequencies in order for the audio to be better suited for night watching if you don't intended to disturb others. Other firms like Sonos is calling DRC for "Loudness", but Loudness can mean different things. Sonos seems to only compress the dynamic range, but others like Apple seems to apply a EQ trying to not only decrease the DRC but also boost various frequencies to "spice" it further. I tend to prefer to have the frequencies unaltered and just the dynamic range compressed.


Yamaha has a really nice adaptive drc on their receivers where they will apply various degrees of drc depending on the volume level. Trying to achieve the audio to sound correct/best at all volume levels.


You get the opposite effect if you apply DRC + going loud on the volume. Then you get overly boosted low's and high's.


But this is just me rambling. It's just sad to see that Samsung dropped their rather extensive DRC implementation on the previous models on the HW-Nxxx series. I tend to listen on 8-15 and this would have benefited a lot by some DRC.
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post #2315 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 11:25 AM
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My N950 has an issue whereby the rears disconnect (blue light) when I come to switch the bar on. It is only resolved by unplugging the bar from the power supply.
This has happened only about twice in two months, but I'm confused and worried that there is something wrong with my soundbar.
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post #2316 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
Uh, no you are not getting 30Hz out of an 8" driver.
Many 8" subs are rated below 30Hz, are you implying there is a physical limitations? I realize Samsung rates this system to 34Hz.

My point was the sub can perform technically well but not subjectively well.
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post #2317 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidnwaters View Post
Many 8" subs are rated below 30Hz, are you implying there is a physical limitations? I realize Samsung rates this system to 34Hz.

My point was the sub can perform technically well but not subjectively well.
Nope you said "relatively consistent db level" meaning flat. Not happening.
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post #2318 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 12:01 PM
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Nope you said "relatively consistent db level" meaning flat. Not happening.
Thank you for your contributions - you have been very helpful to myself and others.

In this case the feedback is non-productive. I apologize if my attempt to describe a problem with more clarity did not agree with you. I am not a technical expert and was reporting what I personally observed. My desire is to enjoy my soundbar to its fullest potential not prove a point.

It seems the comments on the dynamic range compression are the most likely cause of my issues.
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post #2319 of 2763 Old 01-31-2019, 12:02 PM
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You're welcome!

If you can't argue facts argue something else. Go it!!
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post #2320 of 2763 Old 02-01-2019, 11:02 PM
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There is a lot of issue when using N950 and ATV4K. I dont recommend it....

Rears speak disconnecting, low volume from rears speakers, many times no more sound (you have to switch to another hdmi channel and come back), ATMOS visible or not, and it is worth when you use a Matrix or AVR...

I'm fed up with both !

I bought to solve it, Moshou cable 48 GBPS, no way !
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post #2321 of 2763 Old 02-02-2019, 12:56 AM
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I have bought a matrix 4x4 no hassle video, and same pb... I won't give up, but i'm tired...
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I dont know, what i have to throw.. either the soundbar or the ATV4K.. By the hell.....
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post #2323 of 2763 Old 02-02-2019, 04:04 AM
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Hi everyone,
I have a Sony HTFX9000 which is both Atmos and Dts-x.
I know that it’s not something to brag about but since I would like to jump ship and buying a N950 I would like to know if there will be a really significant improvement in the quality of the audio or if the difference will be only marginal.
I am no audio expert and my fear is to fork out a lot of money for the new one to just have more or less of the same.
Can somebody please illuminate me?
Thanks
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post #2324 of 2763 Old 02-02-2019, 03:17 PM
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Does anybody have a problem with Spotify or any other stereo stream upmixing to 5.1 and it’s too much bass?
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post #2325 of 2763 Old 02-02-2019, 11:30 PM
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I got the N950 to work my my xiaomi mi laser projector and I love it.
Just got a quick placement question, is it ok if i place the sound bar about 50/60 cm infront of projector screen ? or should it be right below the screen ?
I have 3 options of replacement as follow:
1) to place it under the UST projector which will be too low around 20 cm considering my calling height is 2.9 cm
2) mount it to the wall right under the screen, but this means that I will need to raise the screen around 5/10 cm more than planned as I was planning to hang the screen 70 cm above floor, but If i mount the soundbar beneath it the screen should go up to 75 to 80 cm.
3) place the sound bar behind of the UST projector (closer to the seating area) which will be around 50/60 cm in front of the screen

Which option would you guys recommend ?
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post #2326 of 2763 Old 02-03-2019, 04:37 AM
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Why is the screen so close to the floor?
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post #2327 of 2763 Old 02-03-2019, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Cornaire View Post
I dont know, what i have to throw.. either the soundbar or the ATV4K.. By the hell.....
It appears that people who are having issues with this soundbar and ATV4K have the ATV4K plugged directly into the soundbar.

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post #2328 of 2763 Old 02-03-2019, 03:48 PM
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Hi. Just hooked up my N950 today to my LG B7 OLED. I'm coming from a Vizio 5.1 system. Maybe it is just me, but I haven't been that impressed with the N950 over my Vizio. It's better, but not that much better. I've demoed Saving Private Ryan (the beach scene), Ready Player One (the Oasis race scene), and some Netflix original film that has Atmos; it's the sniper movie with that Bond villain from Casino Royale. So, I don't know if I expected a lot from the sound bar or if it's just not knocking me over the head. The LG TV does not show the Dolby Atmos bubble like it does for HDR or Dolby Vision. But the sound bar itself does. And if I preview the info on the B7 it does say it is playing Atmos. So, it appears it is passing Atmos, but I am not hearing the overheads. Even tried out the Dolby app demos on the LG. Still didn't hear the overheads.
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post #2329 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 02:24 AM
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Why is the screen so close to the floor?
I believe this is in the recommended range.
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post #2330 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 05:12 AM
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I believe this is in the recommended range.
Whose? Bet you can't recline much.
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post #2331 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 05:26 AM
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Hi. Just hooked up my N950 today to my LG B7 OLED. I'm coming from a Vizio 5.1 system. Maybe it is just me, but I haven't been that impressed with the N950 over my Vizio. It's better, but not that much better. I've demoed Saving Private Ryan (the beach scene), Ready Player One (the Oasis race scene), and some Netflix original film that has Atmos; it's the sniper movie with that Bond villain from Casino Royale. So, I don't know if I expected a lot from the sound bar or if it's just not knocking me over the head. The LG TV does not show the Dolby Atmos bubble like it does for HDR or Dolby Vision. But the sound bar itself does. And if I preview the info on the B7 it does say it is playing Atmos. So, it appears it is passing Atmos, but I am not hearing the overheads. Even tried out the Dolby app demos on the LG. Still didn't hear the overheads.
Your set up it correct. The Atmos notification will only show up on the sound bar. Have you tried adjusting the volume for center level, side level, front top level, etc.? You should notice a significant difference in the listening experience.

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post #2332 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 05:36 AM
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Thanks. I haven't adjusted any levels. Although, I did increase one of the top rears to the max just to see if it made a difference, which it didn't seem to do. I've only had a little bit of time to evaluate it, so I will spend more time with it. I've also heard that for the best experience with Atmos, I should plug my UHD Blu-ray players into the HDMI inputs on the sound bar, which will bass lossless audio directly rather than Atmos lossy inside of a container. Is that true? I don't know if it will make a difference in audio quality. I kind of prefer the configuration of having the sound bar go to ARC and everything plugs into the TV.
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post #2333 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 06:28 AM
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Yes, for the "best" sound you should plug your 4K player directly into the soundbar for lossless audio. That is the only device I have that goes directly into the sound bar. BUT, I have streamed numerious movies in ATMOS and watched a few on disc and I don't hear a drastic difference between the two. I'm no audiophile. Just my personal opinion.

My cable box and ATV4K go into the TV first and out through ARC. I don't have any issues with that configuration.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaHiDef View Post
Yes, for the "best" sound you should plug your 4K player directly into the soundbar for lossless audio. That is the only device I have that goes directly into the sound bar. BUT, I have streamed numerious movies in ATMOS and watched a few on disc and I don't hear a drastic difference between the two. I'm no audiophile. Just my personal opinion.



My cable box and ATV4K go into the TV first and out through ARC. I don't have any issues with that configuration.
Sounds like you have a similar setup to mine. I've got an LG B7A, a TiVo and ATV4K go to the TV and then an Xbox One X I was going to plug into the sound bar. I hopefully get my N950 shipped next week.

So, you get ATMOS from the ATV this way, correct? It is my understanding that don't do full TrueHD on ATV4K anyway, so ARC should result in the same quality as going to the sound bar first with that device, right?


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post #2335 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ToonMasterTim View Post
Thanks. I haven't adjusted any levels. Although, I did increase one of the top rears to the max just to see if it made a difference, which it didn't seem to do. I've only had a little bit of time to evaluate it, so I will spend more time with it. I've also heard that for the best experience with Atmos, I should plug my UHD Blu-ray players into the HDMI inputs on the sound bar, which will bass lossless audio directly rather than Atmos lossy inside of a container. Is that true? I don't know if it will make a difference in audio quality. I kind of prefer the configuration of having the sound bar go to ARC and everything plugs into the TV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaHiDef View Post
Yes, for the "best" sound you should plug your 4K player directly into the soundbar for lossless audio. That is the only device I have that goes directly into the sound bar. BUT, I have streamed numerious movies in ATMOS and watched a few on disc and I don't hear a drastic difference between the two. I'm no audiophile. Just my personal opinion.

My cable box and ATV4K go into the TV first and out through ARC. I don't have any issues with that configuration.
Basically if you aren't watching the lossless version of the disc you are losing information through compression, which is why it's referred to as "lossy". Sometimes you may not notice what's missing, but some things you may notice a difference if you watch the same thing over and over again. I show off the Ready Player One race scene at the start of the movie to my friends all the time, the first time I pulled that scene up on Vudu and heard the lossy version I noticed some subtle differences.

https://whatis.techtarget.com/defini...sy-compression

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post #2336 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TexaClone View Post
Sounds like you have a similar setup to mine. I've got an LG B7A, a TiVo and ATV4K go to the TV and then an Xbox One X I was going to plug into the sound bar. I hopefully get my N950 shipped next week.

So, you get ATMOS from the ATV this way, correct? It is my understanding that don't do full TrueHD on ATV4K anyway, so ARC should result in the same quality as going to the sound bar first with that device, right?


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Yes, I get ATMOS that way from the ATV4K, via the Netflix app. Also, to answer your second question, TrueHD is only available on disc for now, so yes, it's not available via the ATV4K.

Once eARC (HDMI 2.1) becomes more widespread, you should be able to get Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, and lossless ATMOS via streaming. The only problem with that is both your TV and sound bar will need to have eARC for that to work, and there is no guarantee they can or will get a firmware update.
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post #2337 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaHiDef View Post
Yes, I get ATMOS that way from the ATV4K, via the Netflix app. Also, to answer your second question, TrueHD is only available on disc for now, so yes, it's not available via the ATV4K.

Once eARC (HDMI 2.1) becomes more widespread, you should be able to get Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, and lossless ATMOS via streaming.
I doubt the streaming services will ever get lossless audio, they tend to use the lossy versions for their compression. Remember, not everyone lives in an area that gives high speed internet, and some people consider 20 MB/s to be "fast".

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post #2338 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 07:32 AM
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I doubt the streaming services will ever get lossless audio, they tend to use the lossy versions for their compression. Remember, not everyone lives in an area that gives high speed internet, and some people consider 20 MB/s to be "fast".
It would be nice but you are probably right. But, depending on how eARC takes off in the future I still see a chance of it happening.

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post #2339 of 2763 Old 02-04-2019, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by UnfoldingSquid View Post
Basically if you aren't watching the lossless version of the disc you are losing information through compression, which is why it's referred to as "lossy". Sometimes you may not notice what's missing, but some things you may notice a difference if you watch the same thing over and over again. I show off the Ready Player One race scene at the start of the movie to my friends all the time, the first time I pulled that scene up on Vudu and heard the lossy version I noticed some subtle differences.

https://whatis.techtarget.com/defini...sy-compression

Thank you for clarifying. And I believe I am not seeing the Dolby Atmos bubble display on the LG B7 because I am not using the TV's internal speakers. My B7 is the one that doesn't have the Atmos speakers internally anyway, and the Dolby Atmos option in the menu is grayed out. However, with all of my sources connected through the TV, the N950 is displaying Atmos in the ticker when the titles start, be they from the ATV 4K, UHD Blu-ray players, or the TV's apps. So, I'll check everything over and demo some more material.
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post #2340 of 2763 Old 02-05-2019, 11:52 AM
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So my N950 finally arrived after being backordered for weeks. I able to just set it up and install the SmartThings app. Didn't get much of a chance to tinker with it. I do have a few quick questions.

1. How do I upgrade the firmware( or check the firmware version)?
2. How can I change the sound levels on the center bar, rear speakers and subwoofer?
3. Anything else that I should know? I connected my 4k Bluray player and PS4 directly into the bar, and the rest are connected via HDMI ARC.

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