Samsung HW-N950 Soundbar 7.1.4 Dolby Atmos - Page 80 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2371 of 2798 Old 02-15-2019, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraflexed View Post
Nobody answers question here wow
Nobody gives any details with their issues wow
See if your TV supports Atmos pass-through over HDMI-ARC. That may be the issue. Your TV should have bitstream and PCM options in the audio settings, as well as, your devices. So check those. Good luck!
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post #2372 of 2798 Old 02-15-2019, 12:04 PM
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They already announced the new models, the n850 is turning into the q80 and the n950 is turning into the q90. The new 2019 Samsung TVs don’t have eARC so I doubt the soundbars will either.
It would suck if they did that. True EARC is not a factor yet, but when it does become one it would be nice to have a future proof soundbar with it.

Are these "new" models going to get officially released soon? or are they going to just rebadge the existing ones and call it a day?
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post #2373 of 2798 Old 02-15-2019, 03:04 PM
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It would suck if they did that. True EARC is not a factor yet, but when it does become one it would be nice to have a future proof soundbar with it.

Are these "new" models going to get officially released soon? or are they going to just rebadge the existing ones and call it a day?
We’ll have to wait until Samsung gives out more info, right now it looks like a simple rebrand.

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post #2374 of 2798 Old 02-15-2019, 03:11 PM
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We’ll have to wait until Samsung gives out more info, right now it looks like a simple rebrand.
Got you. I hope they come up with a new series, or do a firmware update to EARC on this one.

Right now it's nigh on impossible to find a quality EARC soundbar with rear speakers...
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post #2375 of 2798 Old 02-17-2019, 09:50 AM
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Some random troubleshooting tips:


1. If you don't see Dolby Atmos or DTS:X scroll across the soundbar in the top right corner then it isn't working. Check whatever player/device audio settings and switch between Auto or Bitstream Uncompressed, on rare occasion I have to cycle this on my blu-ray player.


2. If you pause a video and resume it noticing obvious audio sync issues, try checking on your player/device HDMI Deep Color. I had to turn mine off and this solved it.

Samsung - Display: 65Q9FN | Audio: HW-N950 | Player: UBD-M9500



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post #2376 of 2798 Old 02-18-2019, 05:03 PM
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I will admit that if this is your exact setup, the N950 is a solid choice. But if you ever want to use a Switch, PS4, Apple TV, apps on your TV, or a Dolby Vision-compatible blu-ray player stay the HELL away from this thing.

Note: I will delete all of my snarky comments if the N950 ends up supporting Atmos over ARC. The manual is discouraging but it doesn't 100% rule it out.
Note: You never went back to delete your snarky (and inaccurate) comments.

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post #2377 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 03:02 PM
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Yet again the subwoofer (after coming back from warranty repair and getting replaced) is not producing any bass. The rears still randomly disconnect and I have to move the subwoofer in any direction for it to cause the rears to produce sound again if it doesn’t produce sound on its on. Frustrating to say the least.
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post #2378 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Yet again the subwoofer (after coming back from warranty repair and getting replaced) is not producing any bass. The rears still randomly disconnect and I have to move the subwoofer in any direction for it to cause the rears to produce sound again if it doesn’t produce sound on its on. Frustrating to say the least.
Sounds like connections.
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post #2379 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Yet again the subwoofer (after coming back from warranty repair and getting replaced) is not producing any bass. The rears still randomly disconnect and I have to move the subwoofer in any direction for it to cause the rears to produce sound again if it doesn’t produce sound on its on. Frustrating to say the least.
Sounds like connections.
Sounds like poor quality. Too bad I can’t get my money back.
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post #2380 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary J View Post
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Yet again the subwoofer (after coming back from warranty repair and getting replaced) is not producing any bass. The rears still randomly disconnect and I have to move the subwoofer in any direction for it to cause the rears to produce sound again if it doesn’t produce sound on its on. Frustrating to say the least.
Sounds like connections.
Sounds like poor quality. Too bad I can’t get my money back.
Well, while your original response did make me feel some kind of way haha it made me think to try to unplug the subwoofer from my surge protector bc why not.

Plugged it directly into the wall and then had to unplug and plug it back in and viola, the sub is alive again.

I definitely notice now lossy v lossless audio quality when I play an Apple 4KTV Movie w Atmos vs 4K BluRay Player Movie.

Let’s see how long this works.
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post #2381 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 04:53 PM
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So I have encountered a problem. The rear speakers don't seem to work with my PS4 Pro. I have the PS4 connected directly into the Soundbar via HDMI and it is set to output in Linear PCM to the soundbar.

I also find that sometimes the rear speakers work and sometimes they dont(via HDMI Arc).

I tried searching the thread but couldn't find a solution. I have the 100.5 firmware.
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post #2382 of 2798 Old 02-19-2019, 08:32 PM
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So I have encountered a problem. The rear speakers don't seem to work with my PS4 Pro. I have the PS4 connected directly into the Soundbar via HDMI and it is set to output in Linear PCM to the soundbar.

I also find that sometimes the rear speakers work and sometimes they dont(via HDMI Arc).

I tried searching the thread but couldn't find a solution. I have the 100.5 firmware.
Set PS4 to bitstream. Only way to get sound to rear speakers. I think the 7 channels is not properly configured on PS4 bc the side firing ends up outputting instead of rear on PCM.

So I had similar issues but it’s not only ARC related. I had sub plugged in to a surge protector with majority of sockets filled. Not sure why but plugged sub directly to wall outlet and no longer drops sound in rear at least for half day I’ve tried it.
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post #2383 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Well, while your original response did make me feel some kind of way haha it made me think to try to unplug the subwoofer from my surge protector bc why not.

Plugged it directly into the wall and then had to unplug and plug it back in and viola, the sub is alive again.

I definitely notice now lossy v lossless audio quality when I play an Apple 4KTV Movie w Atmos vs 4K BluRay Player Movie.

Let’s see how long this works.
Yes like a reboot when all else fails.
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post #2384 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 04:06 AM
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Set PS4 to bitstream. Only way to get sound to rear speakers. I think the 7 channels is not properly configured on PS4 bc the side firing ends up outputting instead of rear on PCM.

So I had similar issues but it’s not only ARC related. I had sub plugged in to a surge protector with majority of sockets filled. Not sure why but plugged sub directly to wall outlet and no longer drops sound in rear at least for half day I’ve tried it.
Ok, thanks! Which bitstream mode do I chose? PS4 gives me either Dolby or DTS bitstream.

I will try your subwoofer solution to see if it works.
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post #2385 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Well, while your original response did make me feel some kind of way haha it made me think to try to unplug the subwoofer from my surge protector bc why not.

Plugged it directly into the wall and then had to unplug and plug it back in and viola, the sub is alive again.

I definitely notice now lossy v lossless audio quality when I play an Apple 4KTV Movie w Atmos vs 4K BluRay Player Movie.

Let’s see how long this works.
Yes like a reboot when all else fails.
Wasn’t the reboot that fixed it. Tried that dozens of times with the surge protector. It was removing the sub from surge protector.
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post #2386 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Set PS4 to bitstream. Only way to get sound to rear speakers. I think the 7 channels is not properly configured on PS4 bc the side firing ends up outputting instead of rear on PCM.

So I had similar issues but it’s not only ARC related. I had sub plugged in to a surge protector with majority of sockets filled. Not sure why but plugged sub directly to wall outlet and no longer drops sound in rear at least for half day I’ve tried it.
Ok, thanks! Which bitstream mode do I chose? PS4 gives me either Dolby or DTS bitstream.

I will try your subwoofer solution to see if it works.
I use Dolby. It really doesn’t matter because either way it’ll send sound mix to rears.
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post #2387 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 04:57 AM
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Yes like a reboot when all else fails.
Isn't that Hollywood's motto?
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post #2388 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 05:00 AM
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Wasn’t the reboot that fixed it. Tried that dozens of times with the surge protector. It was removing the sub from surge protector.
Yes breaking a connection.
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post #2389 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 06:04 AM
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Wasn’t the reboot that fixed it. Tried that dozens of times with the surge protector. It was removing the sub from surge protector.
Surge protectors very often emit radio frequencies. If they are damaged, not built well or just have a problem they can cause interference with radio equipment. Try buying a different one and see if your results are better. Then document the one have and share it so people know not to buy it.

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post #2390 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Wasn’t the reboot that fixed it. Tried that dozens of times with the surge protector. It was removing the sub from surge protector.
Surge protectors very often emit radio frequencies. If they are damaged, not built well or just have a problem they can cause interference with radio equipment. Try buying a different one and see if your results are better. Then document the one have and share it so people know not to buy it. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

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Agreed. I will definitely buy a new one and see if that is root cause. I’ll have to do more troubleshooting to try to narrow done exact issue. It would be nice to know it was 100% surge protector issue.

The current one I’m using is Monster 900G Green Power Center. Yes it has standby mode for certain plugs and No it was not in one of the power saving standby plugs.
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post #2391 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 08:17 AM
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I'm really enjoying this sound bar vs the HW-K950 I had previously. I think the Dolby Surround is much cleaner and Atmos is still amazing.

I never had drop outs with the sub or rears and still seem to be fine with this N950 so far.

One thing I'm curious about from others.

I have an LG B7A, the N950 connected to ARC., A TiVo connected straight to the LG, a Roku connected through the N950 HDMI 1 and an Apple TV I am trying to get to work right. I have SimpLink(CEC) on for all devices at the moment. If I use the remote for each device, it seems to work well. If I use the TV remote, sometimes the TiVo and Apple TV start swapping inputs. At first I had the ATV plugged into HDMI of the N950 and thought moving it direct to the LG might solve it, but it still swaps with the TiVo in a loop sometimes. I'd like the ATV plugged into the N950 because, while there isn't a lossless source yet, ATV can send lossless audio, so rather than ARC Atmos, I'd like it direct to the sound bar if there is a lossless stream in the future.

Anyone have CEC on with an ATV and an LG and have it behave well? Or is this just a CEC problem and I need to deal with the multiple remote issue?

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post #2392 of 2798 Old 02-20-2019, 12:56 PM
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I'm really enjoying this sound bar vs the HW-K950 I had previously. I think the Dolby Surround is much cleaner and Atmos is still amazing.

I never had drop outs with the sub or rears and still seem to be fine with this N950 so far.

One thing I'm curious about from others.

I have an LG B7A, the N950 connected to ARC., A TiVo connected straight to the LG, a Roku connected through the N950 HDMI 1 and an Apple TV I am trying to get to work right. I have SimpLink(CEC) on for all devices at the moment. If I use the remote for each device, it seems to work well. If I use the TV remote, sometimes the TiVo and Apple TV start swapping inputs. At first I had the ATV plugged into HDMI of the N950 and thought moving it direct to the LG might solve it, but it still swaps with the TiVo in a loop sometimes. I'd like the ATV plugged into the N950 because, while there isn't a lossless source yet, ATV can send lossless audio, so rather than ARC Atmos, I'd like it direct to the sound bar if there is a lossless stream in the future.

Anyone have CEC on with an ATV and an LG and have it behave well? Or is this just a CEC problem and I need to deal with the multiple remote issue?

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I have B7A and 4KATV connected to HDMI 1 of TV. Arc to Arc from TV to N950. No issues with CEC but I’m using harmony elite remote to control everything. I don’t have anything else plugged into the TV. Blu Ray player directly to N950 and PS4 Pro.

Highly unlikely ATV will ever do lossless audio (aka the apps on the ATV) so might as well connect it through TV HDMI.
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post #2393 of 2798 Old 02-21-2019, 12:45 PM
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Is anyone using this with a Fire TV Cube? I can't seem to get input switching to work. I only have 2 inputs - my directv box and my fire tv cube, both plugged into the soundbar and the output going to my TV (an older Samsung). I can't get the Fire TV Cube setup to be able to switch inputs. Has anyone gotten this to work?
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post #2394 of 2798 Old 02-21-2019, 03:17 PM
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Is anyone using this with a Fire TV Cube? I can't seem to get input switching to work. I only have 2 inputs - my directv box and my fire tv cube, both plugged into the soundbar and the output going to my TV (an older Samsung). I can't get the Fire TV Cube setup to be able to switch inputs. Has anyone gotten this to work?

Yes,

I have my Amazon Fire TV cube and Samsung Blu-Ray player plugged into the HDMI 1/2 on the soundbar. Both switch over just fine.

The HDMI arc goes to my anyconnect hub for the TV, otherwise it would go directly to the TV like yours. I wonder if your directv box is messing with it; when you do the Fire input switching setup does it show successful?

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post #2395 of 2798 Old 02-21-2019, 05:40 PM
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Yes,

I have my Amazon Fire TV cube and Samsung Blu-Ray player plugged into the HDMI 1/2 on the soundbar. Both switch over just fine.

The HDMI arc goes to my anyconnect hub for the TV, otherwise it would go directly to the TV like yours. I wonder if your directv box is messing with it; when you do the Fire input switching setup does it show successful?
No, the input switching setup is not successful.
During the setup it asks what input my soundbar is currently set to. I choose HDMI (is that what you chose?).
It then asks to switch to a different input using the soundbar remote, so I advance it to HDMI2 (Fire Cube is on HDMI1).
It is then unable to get back to HDMI1 on its own, so the setup fails.
It fails without the directv box plugged in so I don't think that's it.
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post #2396 of 2798 Old 02-22-2019, 04:55 AM
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Is anyone using this with a Fire TV Cube? I can't seem to get input switching to work. I only have 2 inputs - my directv box and my fire tv cube, both plugged into the soundbar and the output going to my TV (an older Samsung). I can't get the Fire TV Cube setup to be able to switch inputs. Has anyone gotten this to work?
Try a HDMI switch so only one input on the soundbar is used.
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post #2397 of 2798 Old 02-22-2019, 05:23 AM
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Try a HDMI switch so only one input on the soundbar is used.
In that situation, how does one switch inputs if everything is plugged into a switch?
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post #2398 of 2798 Old 02-22-2019, 05:58 AM
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Try a HDMI switch so only one input on the soundbar is used.
My current TV doesn't have ARC but I have a new TV i'll be hooking this up to, so what I think I'll try is to plug the Fire TV into the soundbar with ARC to the TV, and the directv box plugged into the TV. Then hopefully the Fire TV can switch between the two TV inputs and still take advantage of having the audio stream from the Fire TV.
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post #2399 of 2798 Old 02-22-2019, 06:08 AM
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In that situation, how does one switch inputs if everything is plugged into a switch?
I said HDMI SWITCH. Most have their own remote for switching inputs.
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post #2400 of 2798 Old 02-22-2019, 07:05 AM
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The updated Samsung smart things app is asking you to press the speaker add button on the bottom of speaker which there is none what is everyone using thanks

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