Samsung HW-N950 Soundbar 7.1.4 Dolby Atmos - Page 97 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2881 of 2912 Old 07-30-2019, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by eXelium View Post
It might be okay if you buy everything at once. I bought N950 half a year ago. Right now I am in the process of moving to a new flat and on that occasion I decided to upgrade my TV to larger and more recent one (Sony's XG95). So at this moment I have Android TV device with eARC and capable of playing 4K Hi-Def Audio content on it's own but unfortunately soundbar lags behind. I like the simplicity of using one remote and no need to switch inputs in the TV. Of course I could buy Nvidia Shield or some other high spec Android box and connect it directly to soundbar but that will double what I already have built-in into TV which makes little sense. Upgrading to Q90R also makes little sense as it is nearly identical piece of hardware and probably sounds about the same.
What are you doing on your TV that eARC would help with? You just said you like not having to change inputs, so if you're just doing the internal apps on the TV eARC would give you no benefit. Lossless Atmos is only on disc, the streaming apps all use a compressed Atmos layer on a Dolby Digital Plus stream.

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post #2882 of 2912 Old 07-30-2019, 01:43 PM
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Strange had both k950 and now the N950 never had static from rear speakers until last night watching another life on Netflix Dolby Vision atmos episode 2 about 20 minutes in notice it also yesterday episode 1. Both lgg7p tv app and atv4k. Anyone else have this issue. Used to be a big problem for some on the K950 it’s very mild and rear speakers are close to me.

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post #2883 of 2912 Old 07-31-2019, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
Strange had both k950 and now the N950 never had static from rear speakers until last night watching another life on Netflix Dolby Vision atmos episode 2 about 20 minutes in notice it also yesterday episode 1. Both lgg7p tv app and atv4k. Anyone else have this issue. Used to be a big problem for some on the K950 it’s very mild and rear speakers are close to me.
Any changes in the environment electrically speaking? Are you still moving your subwoofer around? Remember, the sub provides the wireless link to rear speakers. Good luck.

P.S. I have my Sub next to my Soundbar and the bass port about 6 inches from the brick on my hearth so I get very little reverb even with it set at +6.
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post #2884 of 2912 Old 07-31-2019, 08:41 AM
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Mine wound up back left side of bar 6” from wall even adjusting Eq pretty strong base. The base is awesome when I want it but a bit strong when I don’t
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post #2885 of 2912 Old 07-31-2019, 08:42 AM
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Still love it though
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post #2886 of 2912 Old 07-31-2019, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Confused Amused View Post
Has anyone gotten this thing to work well with a Harmony Hub/Elite remote yet?

I disabled HDMI-CEC on the TV and soundbar itself, but I’m still not finding the input cycling to be reliable at all. I think the Harmony software is not sending an initial press of the input button before trying to switch inputs, despite the fact that I’ve selected their “Input list with source or nextinput buttons” option. That option is described as using the input button to bring up a list of inputs and cycle through them with subsequent presses — and that’s the way I interpret the N950 to work.

Another worry is they also list out the D.IN and TVARC inputs as separate inputs, which makes me think they’re also doing an extra button press when you need to go past those 2.

Example: I have the Apple TV on HDMI 1 of the soundbar and Xbox One X on HDMI 2. I can turn either one on and off repeatedly without issue if the soundbar source doesn’t need to change. But if the Apple TV is on and I try to switch to the Xbox, I see the soundbar text light up as “HDMI1,” but never gets the 2nd button press to go to HDMI2. Looks like it only got one button press.

But, if I switch from Xbox to Apple TV, I land correctly on HDMI1 after it cycles past BT, WIFI, and D.IN. I think this validates the fact that it’s doing an extra button press because it treats D.IN and TVARC as separate inputs, and accidentally makes up for missing the initial button press.

I also slowed down the inter-key and input delays to the point of multiple seconds and the behavior doesn’t change.

I’m at the point where I might tell Harmony to not switch inputs and just manually program a bunch of input key presses in the start/stop activities, but this is proving to be a very inelegant solution.

EDIT: After more experimentation, I think part of the problem is trying to test the switching too quickly. If the soundbar just turned on or recently switched inputs, the input text will still be on the screen. In this case pressing input/source will immediately go to the next input without requiring one press to get into the input switching mode. But even if you wait for the text to disappear I’m still finding it uses an extra button press when cycling past D.IN and TVARC.
I was never able to get it to work consistently (natively). My workaround was that I had a button mapped on the harmony so I could cycle the inputs. I have since been it to work through my Smartthings hub. There are web commands that can be sent to the soundbar to set the input. I created a virtual switch and then mapped to in in Harmony. It works perfectly, but a big workaround that would be avoidable if Samsung just provided the ability to directly map the discrete inputs...
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post #2887 of 2912 Old 08-01-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Confused Amused View Post
Has anyone gotten this thing to work well with a Harmony Hub/Elite remote yet?

I disabled HDMI-CEC on the TV and soundbar itself, but I’m still not finding the input cycling to be reliable at all. I think the Harmony software is not sending an initial press of the input button before trying to switch inputs, despite the fact that I’ve selected their “Input list with source or nextinput buttons” option.
This is what works for me for soundbar settings on the Hub.

I actually use the K950 profile which seems to work better.

Under Fix Delay:

Power on delay 22s (this lets everything start up and settle down)
Interkey delay 100ms
Input delay 1000ms
Interdevice delay 500ms

Under Input Settings

Input method - Input list with source or next buttons
Display current input - Play (this is a trick to get the device into source select mode when the LED is blank)
Move to next input - Source
Device Inputs - D.In, Hdmi1, Hdmi2 (I’ve disabled wifi and bluetooth which I don’t use)

Under Command Repeats

3

I’ve also disabled CEC on everything.

I do have a separate key programmed to switch inputs. That can help when the HDMI handshakes get weird.
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post #2888 of 2912 Old 08-03-2019, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by UnfoldingSquid View Post
I noticed that since I updated my firmware to 1007.5 I haven’t experienced any power downs. I even left Netflix paused for at least 30 minutes the other day and came back to the soundbar still on.

I just thought I’d chime in on that since I haven’t seen anyone else mention it.
Can you confirm they fix that problem?I will buy the soundbar at the end of August.

this is my system

LG C7 for Netflix and Amazon
Nvidia Shield for mkv movie from the nas
Xbox one X for game.

All plug in to the TV that can passthrough atmos to my current soundbar LG sj9. I know that it is a compress atmos but do you really notice the difference?

I am concern for Delay audio/video
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post #2889 of 2912 Old 08-03-2019, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ignazio Deiana View Post
Can you confirm they fix that problem?I will buy the soundbar at the end of August.

this is my system

LG C7 for Netflix and Amazon
Nvidia Shield for mkv movie from the nas
Xbox one X for game.

All plug in to the TV that can passthrough atmos to my current soundbar LG sj9. I know that it is a compress atmos but do you really notice the difference?

I am concern for Delay audio/video
Unfolding the squid is right mine has not shut off no matter what input or device I have paused since update. About one hour the other day
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post #2890 of 2912 Old 08-03-2019, 08:39 AM
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Unfolding the squid is right mine has not shut off no matter what input or device I have paused since update. About one hour the other day
Thanks I am looking to find a used in ebay .
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post #2891 of 2912 Old 08-04-2019, 06:03 PM
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BT Headphones?

I'm pretty sure the answer is no, but can the N950 output to Bluetooth headphones? I sometimes need to watch with the volume low enough to not disturb others in the household--so low that I can barely hear what I'm watching. Headphones would solve this problem.
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post #2892 of 2912 Old 08-05-2019, 12:55 PM
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I'm pretty sure the answer is no, but can the N950 output to Bluetooth headphones? I sometimes need to watch with the volume low enough to not disturb others in the household--so low that I can barely hear what I'm watching. Headphones would solve this problem.
No, the Sami only has a BT receiver.

You will have to leave the SB on since it doesn't do Video passthrough when Off like most AVRs. You will need to use the Bluetooth transmitter from your video source device (TV, player, streamer etc.) and SB audio will automatically disconnect. I use my BT headphones all the time.
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post #2893 of 2912 Old 08-09-2019, 12:20 AM
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Hello,
I searched on this forum about my problem and I did not find anything related to it:
I cannot pair (Bluetooth) my Samsung HW-N950 Soundbar with the Digital Music Player Sony NW-A35. I tried many times in different ways to pair these two devices, without success.
Separately, each device works without any issue: I can pair Sony NW-A35 with Bose portable Bluetooth speaker and with the Sennheiser Bluetooth headphones and also I can pair Samsung HW-N950 with any mobile phone I have in the house (Android 5, 7 or 9 and Iphone X).
Both Samsung and Sony have the latest firmware installed.
Could you, please, give me some suggestions how to solve this disturbing problem?
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post #2894 of 2912 Old 08-09-2019, 01:07 PM
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Lost WiFi

I seem to have lost WiFi access. Trying to add Smart Things App to a new Android device. Like an idiot I followed the "Press Network" button on the bottom of the Soundbar. Nothing. Tried my Smart Things on my previously working iPhone and it said "N950 offline". No way to get to WiFi anymore. Tried Power Off/ unplug and reinstalling Smart Things on my Android & iPhone. No joy, the App starts to configure (sees the SB via BT) but stops at 98 per cent. Any ideas? Guess I'll have to contact Samsung.

Edit: Contacted Samsung chat & got the solution

1. Power Cycle SB by unplugging for 60 seconds then turn on. Check you toggle to the Wifi Option (I could not see a Wifi option).

2.Press and hold both the Volume + and - buttons until you see the POWER OFF msg on the LED screen.

3. Power the Soundbar back on and Toggle to WiFi (I got a big beep on Wifi connecting via SmartThings).

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post #2895 of 2912 Old 08-09-2019, 02:22 PM
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That happened the other day to me went crazy finally figured it out but added the 950 as a new device so now I have two 950!s one on line and one offline. Other than the eq and updates I find the SmartThings app pretty useless and it disconnects frequently
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post #2896 of 2912 Old 08-09-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
That happened the other day to me went crazy finally figured it out but added the 950 as a new device so now I have two 950!s one on line and one offline. Other than the eq and updates I find the SmartThings app pretty useless and it disconnects frequently
Same here with my set. I just reset tu2 soundbar and started from scratch

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post #2897 of 2912 Old 08-09-2019, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
That happened the other day to me went crazy finally figured it out but added the 950 as a new device so now I have two 950!s one on line and one offline. Other than the eq and updates I find the SmartThings app pretty useless and it disconnects frequently
Yes I don't use the SmartThings App except for EQ and firmware updates.

The EQ feature is really handy since I no longer use Smart mode. Standard with Custom EQ settings allow me to dial in a better sound curve IMHO. Unlike the old K950 you can only save one Custom EQ but it is easier to adjust than using the remote.
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post #2898 of 2912 Old 08-10-2019, 07:42 AM
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The weird thing about my Wifi loss was losing the option to invoke wifi at all. My toggle options were just ARC, HDMI 1, 2 and Bluetooth.

I'll have to remember the full reset option (after restarting SB then turn on & press minus and plus until SB powers off) for the future. The Manual and Website don't provide much troubleshooting help.
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post #2899 of 2912 Old 08-11-2019, 02:47 AM
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Wish this bar had a night mode to limit the bass. Watched Iron man 1&2 last night and was more concerned about the neighbours complaining than enjoying the films.
I ended up turning the sub off which is ridiculous.
The subs volume button's a waste of time.
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post #2900 of 2912 Old 08-11-2019, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lukather101 View Post
Wish this bar had a night mode to limit the bass. Watched Iron man 1&2 last night and was more concerned about the neighbours complaining than enjoying the films.
I ended up turning the sub off which is ridiculous.
The subs volume button's a waste of time.
I agree the base is out of control sometimes even at-12. I assume you had to pull the power cable which would also disable the rear speakers.

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post #2901 of 2912 Old 08-11-2019, 08:46 AM
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Another issue again watched the gunman on amazo 4k fire tv stick last night very annoying static coming from rear speakers. The stick is wireless. I never get the static from my cable box uhd bd player disc I have to try my other devices wired or wireless and see if it’s just fire stick or the speakers. And the excessive base continues to be an issue. The base really became more of an issue after the 1007.5 firmware.

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post #2902 of 2912 Old 08-11-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by william06 View Post
Another issue again watched the gunman on amazo 4k fire tv stick last night very annoying static coming from rear speakers. The stick is wireless. I never get the static from my cable box uhd bd player disc I have to try my other devices wired or wireless and see if it’s just fire stick or the speakers. And the excessive base continues to be an issue. The base really became more of an issue after the 1007.5 firmware.
Try your ATV4K. My FireTV4K stick has occasional audio hiccups. I'll try listening closely to the Rears when I watch Sneaky Pete later today. You might want to check Audio & Network settings on the Fire stick. I use wifi for both my streamers w/o obvious static.
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post #2903 of 2912 Old 08-11-2019, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by naustin View Post
Try your ATV4K. My FireTV4K stick has occasional audio hiccups. I'll try listening closely to the Rears when I watch Sneaky Pete later today. You might want to check Audio & Network settings on the Fire stick. I use wifi for both my streamers w/o obvious static.
I went back after I posted played parts of the same movie on every device I have including the fire to stick where I had it last night and it was perfectly clear not an ounce of static. Must be something around that occasionally causes it. So weird. Now to solve the base issue

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post #2904 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 08:56 AM
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I have a question. On the U.K. avfourm thread the mention on q90r thread and n950 thread updates are issued separately for the soundbar and surrounds and sub separately over usb anyone familiar with this. Never mentioned in us avs forum.

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post #2905 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 09:27 AM
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I have a question. On the U.K. avfourm thread the mention on q90r thread and n950 thread updates are issued separately for the soundbar and surrounds and sub separately over usb anyone familiar with this. Never mentioned in us avs forum.
Seeing as the sub and surrounds don’t have USB ports, I call shenanigans.

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post #2906 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 10:15 AM
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Seeing as the sub and surrounds don’t have USB ports, I call shenanigans.
I would tend to agree with you, but if I read correctly it was a two part update done through the usb input on the soundbar. But probably more as you stated shenanigans.

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post #2907 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 10:34 AM
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I would tend to agree with you, but if I read correctly it was a two part update done through the usb input on the soundbar. But probably more as you stated shenanigans.
I guess you could try an online chat with Samsung Support and explain your Sub Woofer issues. It couldn't hurt, though it might be trying.
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post #2908 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 11:06 AM
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I guess you could try an online chat with Samsung Support and explain your Sub Woofer issues. It couldn't hurt, though it might be trying.
There is no way I will ever deal with Samsung Csrpenter again. Bad experiences in the past. I am surprised at myself for continuing to by their products. I purchased with a 4 year warranty from bb. As a last resort I can contact them. Last night I turned the bar with the baffle facing me on the left with the port facing right on the left side with it pulled out 6”from the wall and it does sound more controlled. I will see how that continues to work for a while.

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post #2909 of 2912 Old 08-12-2019, 12:47 PM
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There is no way I will ever deal with Samsung Csrpenter again. Bad experiences in the past. I am surprised at myself for continuing to by their products. I purchased with a 4 year warranty from bb. As a last resort I can contact them. Last night I turned the bar with the baffle facing me on the left with the port facing right on the left side with it pulled out 6”from the wall and it does sound more controlled. I will see how that continues to work for a while.
Understand about CSRs. Remember the Sub is only reproducing ultra low bass below 150 Hz so you might want to adjust regular bass via the EQ settings both 150 and 300 Hz to tighten the audio.
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post #2910 of 2912 Old 08-13-2019, 05:39 PM
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I have a question. On the U.K. avfourm thread the mention on q90r thread and n950 thread updates are issued separately for the soundbar and surrounds and sub separately over usb anyone familiar with this. Never mentioned in us avs forum.
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I would tend to agree with you, but if I read correctly it was a two part update done through the usb input on the soundbar. But probably more as you stated shenanigans.
I did my update over USB, and the soundbar restarted 2 or 3 times during the process. I made sure to wait for quite a while without hitting the Off button.

Could be that the update progresses in stages.

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