I think it mutes the sound when the microphone comes on.

Huh...?

Anyone else think that it's ridiculous to have to unplug and plug back in every couple days for a soundbar that is this expensive and considered one of the best in the market?

Maybe you should contact LG if it's still under warranty. I've had mine for a few months and haven't had any audio dropping out issues.

I had to unplug and plug yesterday to get sound again. The soundbar updated the firmware. This is the second firmware update. It updated when I first bought it and connected to wifi. Hopefully the no sound when powering on will be fixed.

How do you know the soundbar is updating its firmware ?

The lights in the middle of the soundbar displays update.

Thanks. I'm not aware of a firmware update the soundbar may have had recently... can you share version info?
Guessing that's accessible via the LG Wi-Fi Speaker app.

Got following info from LG and Google apps, and is cryptic AF.
Some similarities can be spotted between the two sources, but hard to know what to make of it all...
Have no idea what version my soundbar was out of the box (3 months ago).


From LG Wi-Fi Speaker app:

Main: 5698275-174279
DAPP: 1910102
Micom: 1910020
HDMI: 1902210
DSP: 1909271


From Google Home app:

Version du micrologiciel système : OIMC.190621.004
Version du micrologiciel Google Cast : 1.40.174279
LG SL10YG ThinQ Soundbar – Version de l'application : 1910102


Maybe "1910102" is in date format with iteration number (yymmddi)...

System firmware version: OIMC.190621.004

Hi there,

I haven’t used the lg speaker app.

But the firmware can be updated and checked through google home app. Which you will need to link it first(this should be the first step when you got the soundbar).

Good to know, wasn't aware that Google Home app was capable of pushing firmware updates to third party hardware...

Since the update I have not needed to unplug and plug in the soundbar to get sound over hdmi arc.

Has anyone found a good mount for this soundbar? I find that the brackets it ships with are a little inadequate which cause the soundbar to lean down when attached to another mount. Also, the location of the brackets being that far apart, adds another challenge.

To those using a media PC and a TV capable of receiving 120hz like LG OLEDs, does the soundbar passthrough 1080p 120hz?

Anyone else using a PS4 (I have a pro but that probably doesn’t matter) with HDMI pass-through successfully? I’ve tried 2 different high speed cables to no avail. I get no picture, just sound cutting in and out. Seems like it’s cycling through resolutions and not finding one that will stick? Sometimes I’ve gotten picture for 2-5 seconds that will promptly disappear to black screen.

I have a LG C8 tv with his setup. Thanks!

How does the SLY10 sound mounted with the soundbar in the vertical wall mount position? Does it surround sound worse that the usual horizontal position?

Sorry for not replying exactly to the issue that you're having, but can't you connect your PS4 to your TV? That's what I do with my C9 + SL10YG setup. And video and audio (via ARC) are just fine.

No problem mate. Tried that but sound bar only showed pcm and not Dolby digital I was hoping for in games. Or does not matter? Will I get surround if sound bar shows pcm? Don’t have satellites yet but it can still simulate it right? For Netflix and such it shows Dolby/dts on sound bar. And I thought some sound streams were too high but rate for arc if I play a blue ray through PS4.

HDMI pass through should work though over 4K that I output on PS4. Pass theworks on my Xbox 360 which is obviously lower res.

Or is optical a better alternative and can do all audio formats including high bitrate ones such as “real” ATMOS (not the compressed version through arc)

You need to set the sound on the PS4 to Bitstream (Dolby) on HDMI out, and you'll be enjoying Dolby Digital :-)

Not sure surround works correctly (or at all) if in pcm.

Definitely get the satellites ;-) Works nicely with games. (deactivate surround for best experience)

It's true for anything based on Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA, which require to be transported on eARC.
But as far as I know this isn't the case for PS4 games.

I do have an Nvidia Shield TV plugged into the soundbar that passes 4K no problem.
Then again, a gaming console is better off plugged into the TV (if only for latency considerations).

Optical is more limited than ARC, I would definitely advise against in this situation.
I found this article explaining some of the differences very instructive : https://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.p...&id=1534479331

Thanks for all the great info and for being able to read and understand my autocorrected mess of a post. You’re right about latency, didn’t even think about that. Will go with ARC instead and force Dolby bitstream through PS4. Do you know what will happen if a I play a Blu-ray with dts on PS4? I guess not many (if any) games use dts.

I also briefly read the link you sent me but will give it a more thorough read soon. Thx.

It’s amazing how complicated audio standards have become. It reminds me of how advanced graphics on pc was for a while. Only the nerds would bother with the settings. Fee like all the different standards in both connections and audio formats has gone the same way. Needs more “plug&play”. 😉

I believe PS4 games are Dolby Digital and/or DTS compatible, so that's not an issue here.
However, a Blu-Ray movie (played on the PS4) will most likely be either DTS-HD MA or Dolby TrueHD, which do not go through ARC. I'll have to test to see what happens in that case.

Edit:
Tested with blu-ray movie that has a DTS-HD MA track (seems 99% of them are on that format).
By default, soundbar says it's PCM, need to set the audio setting to bitstream via the options menu of the PS4 during playback, then soundbar indicates it's DTS.
PS4 info bar confirms audio track is DTS-HD MA, so I'm guessing it's been "downgraded" to simple DTS along the way...

As expected then I guess. I also know that uncompressed Atmos won’t play via arc, but there is a compressed one that will (used by streaming services for example). Guess it’s not a huge deal. It’s a good sound bar but if I really wanted to take advantage of uncompressed sound I would have gotten a full blown home cinema. Thanks for all your help!

Dolby True HD Atmos : lossless : doesn't work with ARC, requires eARC
Dolby Digital Plus Atmos : lossy : works with ARC

Ideally, LG would try to do what some other vendors (wink Sony) have done and push a software update to the soundbar to make it eARC compatible.

You can signify your interest of having this feature to LG on this page : https://lgcommunity.us.com/discussio...rmware-updates

Great info, thanks. I can sign the petition although it won’t do any good for me with LG C8 that’s doesn’t have e-arc. But I’ll do it to help others out. 🙂

Edit - realized relevant for me too if they’d include it in the C8 too. Strange they haven’t done so already since competition already did. It will be VERY interesting to see how LG treats their customer base when deciding on brand in the future.

Just got my new sound bar hooked up. When using the info button I see it showing "Dolby Audio" when using my cable box, how do I know if that is DD 5.1 or not? I also noticed there is a setting in the speaker app for DTS: Neural X, has anyone tried that? If so, how does it work? And is that only applicable when you're watching a DTS source? Thanks! Can't wait to hook up my laptop and try some Atmos with Netflix later tonight when my girlfriend is sleeping and I can have it to myself LOL

Regarding Rear Wireless SPK8-S Kit

os it normal to only hear sound from the rear speakers when on Movie mode or when Dolby Atmos content is playing? Even if the Surround Sound is turned on? If I use any of the sound effects options other than those two, I hear nothing.

Any way to 'force' the soundbar to stay in HDMI mode? When selecting "function", I am trying to get it to use the HDMI input and output
sound and send the video to a TV. I select HDMI, then after a few seconds it switches to "OPT". Sometimes I can
hear a device for less than a second before it switches. Is there a way to disable OPT or to disable auto switching?

Some devices "catch" it before it times out and switches back to OPT. So I'll have to plug in my PS4, turn it on, get an image/audio to display, then yank the HDMI and put it in my PC/other device. If I do it fast enough it will stay.

Figured out the issue was I didn't have HDMI pass-through setting on in VLC for Windows 10, was outputting all my downloaded files as stereo. 🙈

I replaced the little speakers that come with the SPK-8s with some Polk T15's. Sounds much better.