Samsung Q90R Soundbar - such good sound - SO many bugs - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 238 Old 06-30-2019, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by scaddaye View Post
My experiences are these:
1. MY Q900 seems to have an issue with HDMI port 3 ARC. The soundbar works fine with ARC on my older Samsung Plasma - but on my Q900 it does not work reliably (requiring AC power removal and reconnect on soundbar for the TV to see the bar). This may NOT be a general issue with all Q900s ... and just be a faulty HDMI port in my particular one connect box

2. My Q900 came with old firmware and was incapable of downloading new firmware from the internet via the TV. I had to download it on a PC- put it on a USB - then plug the USB into the Q900 to do the update. Your Q900 might not have this bug

3. Since upgrading my Q900 firmware I can no longer connect the Q900 to the soundbar via WiFi. Note that I would ordinarily have no reason to even want to do this - if my HDMI connection between soundbar and TV was working fine - it is just that with HDMI failing regularly it was nice to have an alternative. Now my only alternative is Optical - which means unplugging my digital radio (which normally runs to optical in on the soundbar). This wifi thing might be a unique issue for me - perhaps my soundbar firmware update did not complete properly (some are saying that there is a separate second step to update firmware onto sub woofer and rears - via USB - but all I did was the wifi upgrade using smart things app) ... or it might be related to my seemingly faulty one connect box ... or it might be a bug in the new Q900 firmware. There are lots of potential causes. Note that I also recently installed a Google Mesh wifi range extending system - and this required all connected devices to be reconnected on to the mesh (so that all could see each other) ... this could also have introduced a conflict (even though all appear to be on the same wifi connection now)

4. The Q900R DOES output Atmos to the Q90R soundbar ... as long as you can get your HDMI ARC connection working! In my case - when the ARC port 3 HDMI connection is working, I can hear lossy Atmos from Amazon Prime Jack Ryan (note that I do need to go into TV settings everytime though - and select ATMOS as the sound output type for this to work).

5. My Panasonic 4K Blu-ray player outputs Atmos perfectly well via just one HDMI out from the player to one HDMI in on the Q90R soundbar. You do NOT require two leads and do NOT need to connect anything up to the one connect box. The 4K player does NOT require a direct connection to the TV at all (this is handled via the ARC connection between soundbar and TV). To be clear - the one connect (TV) can pass LOSSY Atmos from the TV to the sound bar (eg. if you are watching Amazon Prime - the only built in app with Atmos that I have found) ... but it can NOT pass pure Atmos from the one connect (TV) to the sound bar (eg. as would be needed if you plugged the 4K player into the one connect box). However - the soundbar CAN pass video through to the one connect box via ARC ... so you can happily plug your 4K bluray player directly into the soundbar and you will hear Atmos from the soundbar and see beautiful vision from the TV.

I hope this helps.

Now if you could please help me (seeing as how you are the only person I know with an identical setup to me) -

Let me know if you suffer from any of the following:
a. Inability to update firmware on the Q900 via internet connection
b. Inability to connect TV sound output to Soundbar via wifi
c. Regular inability to output TV sound to soundbar via HDMI (when connected via HDMI 2.0 lead between soundbar ARC out and TV One Connect box HDMI 3 ARC input

Thanks a lot.
Thank you for the great summary, will print it out as a guide.

I am currently painting ceiling in the TV room so all behind the dropsheet but in next couple of day it should be over and I will let you know regarding TV firmware update and will test HDMI connectivy to the bar, will keep you posted.
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post #32 of 238 Old 07-02-2019, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I have now spoken with Samsung level 1 support 2 or 3 times, and their level 2 support twice (including one extended remote log in session - where they reset an amazing number of hidden settings via their service log in). Level 2 couldn't figure it out - so they then engaged level 3. The upshot is that my case has NOT been resolved and has now been referred to the Samsung repair agent - who will send someone out to assess my setup.

I'll update when I have seen the repairer.
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post #33 of 238 Old 07-04-2019, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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The repairer has been. He was a really helpful guy - lot of knowledge - very friendly. He tried everything he could (including factory reset to the TV, factory reset to the soundbar, resetting the HDMI ports via technician mode and more) - but the problem remained. So he called a guru in Samsung Sydney and the guru stepped him through some very detailed resetting processes on the HDMI 3 port (involved disconnection of all HDMI leads - then updating the port to HDMI 2.0 and effectively purging / refreshing the port). This SEEMED to work ... at first ... but of course, 5 minutes after he left, the problem returned!

On a positive note - the technician was great, he came less than 48 hours after I requested the service call, he observed the issue and did all he could to resolve it. Now that the problem has returned so quickly, he has escalated things to the guru in Sydney - so I am hopeful that the guru will contact me in the coming day or two and will ultimately be able to resolve this for me.

Also positive - one of the many factory resets that has been done has resolved the issue of the TV and soundbar not being able to talk to each other by wifi (having said that - wifi does not appear to convey any sound to the rear speakers - so it is a last resort connection option and not something I really plan to use).

I'll update you guys further once I hear from the guru.
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post #34 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaddaye View Post
The repairer has been. He was a really helpful guy - lot of knowledge - very friendly. He tried everything he could (including factory reset to the TV, factory reset to the soundbar, resetting the HDMI ports via technician mode and more) - but the problem remained. So he called a guru in Samsung Sydney and the guru stepped him through some very detailed resetting processes on the HDMI 3 port (involved disconnection of all HDMI leads - then updating the port to HDMI 2.0 and effectively purging / refreshing the port). This SEEMED to work ... at first ... but of course, 5 minutes after he left, the problem returned!

On a positive note - the technician was great, he came less than 48 hours after I requested the service call, he observed the issue and did all he could to resolve it. Now that the problem has returned so quickly, he has escalated things to the guru in Sydney - so I am hopeful that the guru will contact me in the coming day or two and will ultimately be able to resolve this for me.

Also positive - one of the many factory resets that has been done has resolved the issue of the TV and soundbar not being able to talk to each other by wifi (having said that - wifi does not appear to convey any sound to the rear speakers - so it is a last resort connection option and not something I really plan to use).

I'll update you guys further once I hear from the guru.
Hi,

I finally got to my TV and soundbar and spent 2 hours trying to make it work - it is a complete disaster!

1. My TV did not have any issues updating firmware, it downloaded latest in 5min and restarted TV

2. At first I got "TV Arc"-"soundbar ARC" connected with HDMI from soundbar box and got Amazon Prime trial to check your Jack Ryan. I did have to explicitly go to Sound/Expert settings to be able to select "Dolby Digital+" and it does improve the sound but nothing from sub or the rear speakers. Was turning TV off/on and noticed that on off it doesn't turn off soundbar but when turning TV on I have to manually turn soundbar on. Once I select "Dolby Digital+" in Expert it would disable other "Sound Mode" option, but every time I restart the TV and load Prime Video app I have to explicitly go to Expert setting to select Dolby+ because it defaults to PCM otherwise.

3. I though I would try YouTube atmos demos, Stan and few 4K downloads I have to see if I can get anything from rear speakers/sub but nothing. I was able to do BT from laptop and hear sound from sub/rear but not anymore (all wireless speakers are connected - I see solid blue light on sub and left/right speakers).

4. When playing with various apps I made a mistake, in the shortcut to select the audio output (from smart hub not through going to settings) I incidentally selected Soundbar via WiFi and it killed my HDMI connectivity.

5. So I did not change any hardware wise, not disconnected a single cable just went through TV menus now my ARC HDMI connection doesn't work! It is in the list and I can select it and settings sound menu shows it switched to Q90 soundbar by HDMI but no sound is coming out the soundbar. Wifi connection still works but it only allows to select Dolby not Dolby Digital+ for Jack Ryan.

6. For another 30min I was trying to get HDMI ARC working again, disconnecting reconnecting HDMI cables, restarting TV/soundbar. Not a chance, this thing just stopped working similar to yours.

This Samsung stuff is just junk, will try to call Samsung tomorrow. Any chance you can give me your reference number for your Samsung level1/2/3 - Sydney guru whatever, so I can provide it during the call tomorrow trying to get mine escalated too.

Thanks!!


Fair enough, I tried another HDMI 2.0 cable that I got - same story. Tried youtube atmos demos - nothing from sub or rears. Tried
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post #35 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaddaye View Post
The repairer has been. He was a really helpful guy - lot of knowledge - very friendly. He tried everything he could (including factory reset to the TV, factory reset to the soundbar, resetting the HDMI ports via technician mode and more) - but the problem remained. So he called a guru in Samsung Sydney and the guru stepped him through some very detailed resetting processes on the HDMI 3 port (involved disconnection of all HDMI leads - then updating the port to HDMI 2.0 and effectively purging / refreshing the port). This SEEMED to work ... at first ... but of course, 5 minutes after he left, the problem returned!

On a positive note - the technician was great, he came less than 48 hours after I requested the service call, he observed the issue and did all he could to resolve it. Now that the problem has returned so quickly, he has escalated things to the guru in Sydney - so I am hopeful that the guru will contact me in the coming day or two and will ultimately be able to resolve this for me.

Also positive - one of the many factory resets that has been done has resolved the issue of the TV and soundbar not being able to talk to each other by wifi (having said that - wifi does not appear to convey any sound to the rear speakers - so it is a last resort connection option and not something I really plan to use).

I'll update you guys further once I hear from the guru.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scaddaye View Post
The repairer has been. He was a really helpful guy - lot of knowledge - very friendly. He tried everything he could (including factory reset to the TV, factory reset to the soundbar, resetting the HDMI ports via technician mode and more) - but the problem remained. So he called a guru in Samsung Sydney and the guru stepped him through some very detailed resetting processes on the HDMI 3 port (involved disconnection of all HDMI leads - then updating the port to HDMI 2.0 and effectively purging / refreshing the port). This SEEMED to work ... at first ... but of course, 5 minutes after he left, the problem returned!

On a positive note - the technician was great, he came less than 48 hours after I requested the service call, he observed the issue and did all he could to resolve it. Now that the problem has returned so quickly, he has escalated things to the guru in Sydney - so I am hopeful that the guru will contact me in the coming day or two and will ultimately be able to resolve this for me.

Also positive - one of the many factory resets that has been done has resolved the issue of the TV and soundbar not being able to talk to each other by wifi (having said that - wifi does not appear to convey any sound to the rear speakers - so it is a last resort connection option and not something I really plan to use).

I'll update you guys further once I hear from the guru.
Hi,

I finally got to my TV and soundbar and spent 2 hours trying to make it work - it is a complete disaster!

1. My TV did not have any issues updating firmware, it downloaded latest in 5min and restarted TV

2. At first I got "TV Arc"-"soundbar ARC" connected with HDMI from soundbar box and got Amazon Prime trial to check your Jack Ryan. I did have to explicitly go to Sound/Expert settings to be able to select "Dolby Digital+" and it does improve the sound but nothing from sub or the rear speakers. Was turning TV off/on and noticed that on off it doesn't turn off soundbar but when turning TV on I have to manually turn soundbar on. Once I select "Dolby Digital+" in Expert it would disable other "Sound Mode" option, but every time I restart the TV and load Prime Video app I have to explicitly go to Expert setting to select Dolby+ because it defaults to PCM otherwise.

3. I though I would try YouTube atmos demos, Stan and few 4K downloads I have to see if I can get anything from rear speakers/sub but nothing. I was able to do BT from laptop and hear sound from sub/rear but not anymore (all wireless speakers are connected - I see solid blue light on sub and left/right speakers).

4. When playing with various apps I made a mistake, in the shortcut to select the audio output (from smart hub not through going to settings) I incidentally selected Soundbar via WiFi and it killed my HDMI connectivity.

5. So I did not change any hardware wise, not disconnected a single cable just went through TV menus now my ARC HDMI connection doesn't work! It is in the list and I can select it and settings sound menu shows it switched to Q90 soundbar by HDMI but no sound is coming out the soundbar. Wifi connection still works but it only allows to select Dolby not Dolby Digital+ for Jack Ryan.

6. For another 30min I was trying to get HDMI ARC working again, disconnecting reconnecting HDMI cables, restarting TV/soundbar. Not a chance, this thing just stopped working similar to yours.

This Samsung stuff is just junk, will try to call Samsung tomorrow. Any chance you can give me your reference number for your Samsung level1/2/3 - Sydney guru whatever, so I can provide it during the call tomorrow trying to get mine escalated too.

Thanks!!


Fair enough, I tried another HDMI 2.0 cable that I got - same story. Tried youtube atmos demos - nothing from sub or rears. Tried
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post #36 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 04:06 AM
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Hi,

I finally got to my TV and soundbar and spent 2 hours trying to make it work - it is a complete disaster!

1. My TV did not have any issues updating firmware, it downloaded latest in 5min and restarted TV

2. At first I got "TV Arc"-"soundbar ARC" connected with HDMI from soundbar box and got Amazon Prime trial to check your Jack Ryan. I did have to explicitly go to Sound/Expert settings to be able to select "Dolby Digital+" and it does improve the sound but nothing from sub or the rear speakers. Was turning TV off/on and noticed that on off it doesn't turn off soundbar but when turning TV on I have to manually turn soundbar on. Once I select "Dolby Digital+" in Expert it would disable other "Sound Mode" option, but every time I restart the TV and load Prime Video app I have to explicitly go to Expert setting to select Dolby+ because it defaults to PCM otherwise.

3. I though I would try YouTube atmos demos, Stan and few 4K downloads I have to see if I can get anything from rear speakers/sub but nothing. I was able to do BT from laptop and hear sound from sub/rear but not anymore (all wireless speakers are connected - I see solid blue light on sub and left/right speakers).

4. When playing with various apps I made a mistake, in the shortcut to select the audio output (from smart hub not through going to settings) I incidentally selected Soundbar via WiFi and it killed my HDMI connectivity.

5. So I did not change any hardware wise, not disconnected a single cable just went through TV menus now my ARC HDMI connection doesn't work! It is in the list and I can select it and settings sound menu shows it switched to Q90 soundbar by HDMI but no sound is coming out the soundbar. Wifi connection still works but it only allows to select Dolby not Dolby Digital+ for Jack Ryan.

6. For another 30min I was trying to get HDMI ARC working again, disconnecting reconnecting HDMI cables, restarting TV/soundbar. Not a chance, this thing just stopped working similar to yours.

This Samsung stuff is just junk, will try to call Samsung tomorrow. Any chance you can give me your reference number for your Samsung level1/2/3 - Sydney guru whatever, so I can provide it during the call tomorrow trying to get mine escalated too.

Thanks!!
It is crazy, when I was writing the post above I disconnected power on both TV/soundbar (turn off at the power plug). After posting I decided to try one more time and Soundbar over HDMI is working again moreover on TV start it goes back to Prime Video app and this time it started playing it with Dolby DIgital+ so I did not need to select it through settings again. Silly question but have you tried to unplug your soundbar from power to try HDMI-ARC?

Still even with Dolby Digital+ I cant hear anything from rear/sub, are you sure you were able to hear them when watching Jack Ryan or was it only when you watched something on your Panasonic 4k bluray?? Solid blue light on all 3 speakers and now bloody sound at all! I wonder if Samsung DLNA or any built-in apps can output anything really surround
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post #37 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 08:09 AM
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It is crazy, when I was writing the post above I disconnected power on both TV/soundbar (turn off at the power plug). After posting I decided to try one more time and Soundbar over HDMI is working again moreover on TV start it goes back to Prime Video app and this time it started playing it with Dolby DIgital+ so I did not need to select it through settings again. Silly question but have you tried to unplug your soundbar from power to try HDMI-ARC?

Still even with Dolby Digital+ I cant hear anything from rear/sub, are you sure you were able to hear them when watching Jack Ryan or was it only when you watched something on your Panasonic 4k bluray?? Solid blue light on all 3 speakers and now bloody sound at all! I wonder if Samsung DLNA or any built-in apps can output anything really surround
How are you seeing what format is being played through the soundbar - outside of the display showing Atmos and DTS-X nothing else is shown, and the app doesn't show anything either
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post #38 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 12:52 PM
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I have a Samsung Q80R TV and HW-Q80R Soundbar on order and just posted a question on the Q80R TV owners thread. Thought possibly this thread would have a better response but also seems like a consistent answer is difficult due to bugs.

Thoughts on my question linked below?

Thank you.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post58265264
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post #39 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 03:32 PM
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It is crazy, when I was writing the post above I disconnected power on both TV/soundbar (turn off at the power plug). After posting I decided to try one more time and Soundbar over HDMI is working again moreover on TV start it goes back to Prime Video app and this time it started playing it with Dolby DIgital+ so I did not need to select it through settings again. Silly question but have you tried to unplug your soundbar from power to try HDMI-ARC?



Still even with Dolby Digital+ I cant hear anything from rear/sub, are you sure you were able to hear them when watching Jack Ryan or was it only when you watched something on your Panasonic 4k bluray?? Solid blue light on all 3 speakers and now bloody sound at all! I wonder if Samsung DLNA or any built-in apps can output anything really surround


Ok, firstly go to the smart things app on your phone make sure that your tv and soundbar and phone are all on the same wifi.

Connect hdmi arc between tv and soundbar. Disconnect the large one connect plug on your one connect box and wait a minute then re connect. The TV should show a large icon of the plug connecting onscreen. This should then give you the soundbar Q90 icon in your tv UI Menu. This means they are talking to each other!

Now, update your software via USB stick. Go to the Samsung.com site and view comments on the Q90 page and refer: Samsung’s reply to your issue of no speakers and sub.

Very Important: there is an install guide for 1008.0 that mentions holding down a key on the remote to activate the fix.
You will need to download update on a PC to USB not a Mac like I did, I won’t work. This update takes time and cycles several times with the word Update flashing on your Q90 display. Follow the install instructions to the letter and let it run its course.

Anything with Atmos in your collection will need to go straight from device to the HDMI 1 or 2 on your Soundbar. earc on your soundbar is useless as your TV only supports arc.

Other issues I had were hand shake between Bar and TV / ATV 4K / UHD Blu-Ray player. I found that toggling through the anynet settings on the tv menu and via the soundbar remote (from memory I think it’s hold down the “right” key as in directional key on remote also the Auto Power functionality is switched on and off by the “left” key held for a few seconds. See special functions page in manual for the remote. There’s some hidden gems in there.

This system is as we have all said very buggy but I’m now at the stage where I have minor handshake issues and full speakers all the time.

The Dolby site has atmos traitors that will play on USB straight into your one connect box. You will be amazed, pun intended





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post #40 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 03:39 PM
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Ok, firstly go to the smart things app on your phone make sure that your tv and soundbar and phone are all on the same wifi.

Connect hdmi arc between tv and soundbar. Disconnect the large one connect plug on your one connect box and wait a minute then re connect. The TV should show a large icon of the plug connecting onscreen. This should then give you the soundbar Q90 icon in your tv UI Menu. This means they are talking to each other!

Now, update your software via USB stick. Go to the Samsung.com site and view comments on the Q90 page and refer: Samsung’s reply to your issue of no speakers and sub.

Very Important: there is an install guide for 1008.0 that mentions holding down a key on the remote to activate the fix.
You will need to download update on a PC to USB not a Mac like I did, I won’t work. This update takes time and cycles several times with the word Update flashing on your Q90 display. Follow the install instructions to the letter and let it run its course.

Anything with Atmos in your collection will need to go straight from device to the HDMI 1 or 2 on your Soundbar. earc on your soundbar is useless as your TV only supports arc.

Other issues I had were hand shake between Bar and TV / ATV 4K / UHD Blu-Ray player. I found that toggling through the anynet settings on the tv menu and via the soundbar remote (from memory I think it’s hold down the “right” key as in directional key on remote also the Auto Power functionality is switched on and off by the “left” key held for a few seconds. See special functions page in manual for the remote. There’s some hidden gems in there.

This system is as we have all said very buggy but I’m now at the stage where I have minor handshake issues and full speakers all the time.

The Dolby site has atmos traitors that will play on USB straight into your one connect box. You will be amazed, pun intended





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Update: the reason I suggested the smart things app is to check / view what software the Soundbar arrived with you need 1008.0 installed via USB. To be safe following the instructions on install guide. Some users have success by updating via smart things via wifi to fix speaker issue. But Samsung directly instructed me to follow the install guide via USB.
Hope this helps


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post #41 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Other issues I had were hand shake between Bar and TV / ATV 4K / UHD Blu-Ray player. I found that toggling through the anynet settings on the tv menu and via the soundbar remote (from memory I think it’s hold down the “right” key as in directional key on remote also the Auto Power functionality is switched on and off by the “left” key held for a few seconds. See special functions page in manual for the remote. There’s some hidden gems in there.

This system is as we have all said very buggy but I’m now at the stage where I have minor handshake issues and full speakers all the time.

The Dolby site has atmos traitors that will play on USB straight into your one connect box. You will be amazed, pun intended





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
What 4K Player do you have Ballyerhead? I'm VERY interested to know. I'll explain more in my next (more detailed) post.
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post #42 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 06:20 PM
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What 4K Player do you have Ballyerhead? I'm VERY interested to know. I'll explain more in my next (more detailed) post.


LG UBK 90


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post #43 of 238 Old 07-06-2019, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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A few updates since I last posted.

My son decided to buy a Q70R soundbar to go with his RU7100 TV. We went to our favourite Good Guys store and as luck would have it - a super friendly and knowledgeable Samsung rep (Dave) was there at the time. While my son went off playing with soundbars - I had a detailed discussion with Dave regarding my handshake issues. He and I both thought that an ideal test would be to swap in a different one connect box ... just to rule out any issue with the ARC port on my box. The store was good enough to lend me there display model one connect box overnight (I gave them mine so that their display would keep working) - and my testing began late Friday night.

By 5.30am (yep … stayed up nearly all night working on this sucker) - I had found the reason for my handshake problem. It turns out that my new Panasonic 4K Bluray player (DP-UB420GNK) and my Samsung sound bar / TV do NOT like each other. The Panasonic player (which has to be plugged into the soundbar - so that ATMOS sound can be heard - as the 8K TV cannot pass through Atmos to the soundbar) will work fine … but when you finish watching a 4K UHD disc and try to do anything else (Netflix, Stan, TV, use other stuff that is plugged into the One Connect box) - the act of having used the Panasonic 4K player causes the Soundbar and TV HDMI ARC link to disconnect. So far I have found 3 ways to resolve this - none of which are acceptable long term solutions (as they require physical disconnection of devices ... I have not yet found a way to use menu options to bring back the connection):
1. Disconnect the 4K player from the power point (which causes it to no longer impact the connectivity between the TV and Soundbar) and go into the TV Sound Output settings and find the Soundbar again and select it to connect back up to [AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)
2. Disconnect the HDMI lead that runs from the 4K player to the soundbar (which causes it to no longer impact the connectivity between the TV and Soundbar) and go into the TV Sound Output settings and find the Soundbar again and select it to connect back up to [AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)
3. Disconnect the Soundbar from the power point (which causes it to forget the impact that the 4K Player was having on the connectivity between the TV and Soundbar) and go into the TV Sound Output settings and find the Soundbar again and select it to connect back up to [AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)

So - I learned a lot - but I still have no clue whether the problem is at the Panasonic end … the soundbar end … the TV end … or if everyone is to blame. Given that the market for 4K players is Australia is so small though (pretty much just one Sony, a couple of LGs and a three Panasonics) - it is surely an issue that is going to spread once more and more people try to hook their new Panasonic 4K player to their new Samsung sound bar. Even worse - it is possible that ALL 4K players on the market will have this "hand shake breaking" effect on Samsung TVs and soundbars (so returning one and buying a different brand might not even be a solution).

Anyway - once I knew what was causing it - I went into the store and returned the demo one connect box and picked up mine. Then I had another chat with Dave from Samsung and he suggested some settings changes that might help the connection between the Soundbar and the 4K player. I went home and tried them all - none of the changes worked (although he was definitely circling the right region - as his first suggested change (turning off Anynet Hdmi CEC on the TV) immediately caused the TV and soundbar to disconnect from each other (which is the opposite of what I wanted to do ... but interesting nonetheless as that is the EXACT problem I am having when I play a 4K disc).

Next I tried testing with my son’s setup (7100 Samsung TV and Q70R soundbar). Guess what? When I plugged my Panasonic 4K player into his soundbar (via HDMI) - it immediately killed the TV ARC link (and also played havoc with both the TV remote and the soundbar remote - neither would control the volume of either device reliably anymore). As soon as I disconnected the HDMI lead from the soundbar to the 4K player - the TV ARC link started working again and (after a power off and power back on) - the remotes were working normally again too. A side note - my son uses an XBOX One S as his 4K player ... and this does NOT cause any of the handshake / disconnect issues between TV and soundbar. Another interesting side note - during some of my overnight testing I plugged in my 10 year old Panasonic Blu Ray player (non-4K) to the soundbar HDMI in - and it worked fine too (no impact on handshake).

So - it seems to me that Samsung (who I think released their products well after Panasonic) have not done any robust sociability testing on their devices (staggering really - I would have thought they just had to conform to established standards and then all items should talk to each other - but apparently not). I think you will be hearing more about this issue over time - as more people buy Panasonic 4K players (and others???) and try to hook them up to these Q series Samsung soundbars (I now know that this is impacting Q70 and Q90 soundbars … and also 7100 and Q900 TVs … so I reckon it is going to be MUCH wider spread and probably affecting all soundbars and TVs in the new model range for Samsung).

It has been suggested that I buy a Sony 700 4K player and test with that - but no one has any stock (plus I don’t really want to throw away my near new Panasonic player). If Samsung wants we to keep being their unpaid product sociability tester - perhaps they can send me some 4K players and I can tell them if any work.

Anyway - it is the weekend - so there is no on on deck at Samsung beyond level 1 support - so I am now waiting until Monday to hopefully speak with Tony (the guru from Samsung Sydney) - as he MIGHT know of the settings that need tweaking in order to resolve this (settings that I can hopefully access … or that he can remotely dial in and access … or can send a repair technician out to do). I am unsure whether the settings will be in the soundbar or the TV or the 4K player … but somewhere I hope there is something that can be tweaked to solve this without having to resort to firmware changes (that may take a LONG time to come).

If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions - I am very open to them.

One last thing - I too have the Amazon Prime Atmos issue (where the TV defaults back to the wrong sound output setting and you need to manually tell it to go to Dolby +) - but it is not a big deal as there is currently only one show on Amazon that even has Atmos. Interestingly - my son's RU7100 does NOT seem to have this issue - and happily sets itself to Dolby + as required.

Good luck to all who buy the latest Samsung Soundbars and TVs and expect a smooth experience after watching a 4K movie (on a Panasonic 4K player at least) ... I think you might be in for a bumpy ride.

Scott

PS - Good Guys have been awesome - I am so glad I bought from them.
Samsung has also been awesome - with excellent support and dedicated reps and technicians who have taken my issue seriously and acted quickly.
My only beef is with the buggy products - but everyone is working hard to iron things out - so I am hopeful we will have a resolution soon (hell - a couple of weeks ago, none of us had sound in our subs or rears ... and that got fixed REAL fast).
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GULP. That means 5 out of the 6 models of 4K player currently widely available on the Australian market will likely cause this handshake breakdown issue.

Have you found a way to re-initiate the handshake between TV and soundbar ... so that the TV can see the Soundbar as "[AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)" ... without having to resort to disconnecting the power to soundbar / 4K player or disconnecting the HDMI lead between 4K player and soundbar? I'm keen to know if this is possible. The Samsung rep in store felt that it might be.
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Oh - the 6th model of 4K player (from Sony) might also cause the issue ... we just don't know about that one yet ...
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Update: the reason I suggested the smart things app is to check / view what software the Soundbar arrived with you need 1008.0 installed via USB. To be safe following the instructions on install guide. Some users have success by updating via smart things via wifi to fix speaker issue. But Samsung directly instructed me to follow the install guide via USB.
Hope this helps


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I am afraid your advice is not really relevant to my post/issue. I did not post anything at Samsung.com and don't have the connectivity issue. My 8K Q900R shows 2 additional icons in the speaker selection: Q90R Soundbar (HDMI) and Q90R Soundbar (Wifi) (BTW for Wifi connectivity TV/bar don't need to be on the same Wifi it is sufficient to be on the same network as my TV is Cat6 wired and soundbar is connected to Wifi through SmartThings app - latest app on S10+ showing 1008 firmware on the soundbar. The only connectivity issue I noticed and reported - when using Q90R (Wifi) the soundbar get confused so switching to Q90R (HDMI) on TV will make TV show that it is playing sound over Q90R HDMI ARC and Soundbar will show TV Arc on the display but no sound will come out. Removing power plug (not just switching off the soundbar) fixed it.

So my issue is: Q900R TV connected by Samsung Q90R HDMI cable to Q90R soundbar (TV shows it is connected via HDMI Arc, Soundbar shows TV Arc is connected) but I cant get Atmos. In Amazon Prime Video app by selecting Jack Ryan video I can then select "Dolby Digital+" in TV Expert Sound settings but still all sound comes from multiple speakers of the bar but sub and rear don't output anything (solid blue light confirms that they are linked to the soundbar). Tried youtube app on TV and DLNA client (playing files from my NAS) - still nothing from sub/rears.

Your idea of playing Atmos file through OneConnect USB is interesting. Please let me know exact clip you downloaded (presumably from youtube, how did you get it youtube downloader?) and I will try that to hear "amazing sound" of Q90R. Thanks!

Re-read both of your posts. "The Dolby site has atmos traitors that will play on USB straight into your one connect box. You will be amazed, pun intended". Are you contradicting yourself? You said anything atmos should go straight to soundbar HDMI 1/2 not Tv eArc because my TV ARC is just arc not eArc then you said download clips from dolby atmos website and play through USB connected to TV OneConnect box? But that means the sound will go through the same HDMI ARC interface you said could not carry Atmos???

Got 2 demos from https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/do...-trailers.html. Copied to USB, plugged to TV OnceConnect and when playing went to Sound/Expert setting to change sound mode to Dolby Digital+ (always default to PCM). YES, I can confirm the soundbar then play content through all speakers including rear and sub (had to power cycle left as there were no sound originally despite solid blue light).

So TV Arc can carry atmos from Q900R TV to Q90R soundbar, just built-in TV apps like youtube, stan, Netflix seems to have issues with atmos and DLNA client seems to be deficient too

Last edited by atcj; 07-06-2019 at 07:21 PM.
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GULP. That means 5 out of the 6 models of 4K player currently widely available on the Australian market will likely cause this handshake breakdown issue.

Have you found a way to re-initiate the handshake between TV and soundbar ... so that the TV can see the Soundbar as "[AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)" ... without having to resort to disconnecting the power to soundbar / 4K player or disconnecting the HDMI lead between 4K player and soundbar? I'm keen to know if this is possible. The Samsung rep in store felt that it might be.

Also - what TV do you have Ballyerhead?
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GULP. That means 5 out of the 6 models of 4K player currently widely available on the Australian market will likely cause this handshake breakdown issue.



Have you found a way to re-initiate the handshake between TV and soundbar ... so that the TV can see the Soundbar as "[AV] Soundbar Q90R (HDMI)" ... without having to resort to disconnecting the power to soundbar / 4K player or disconnecting the HDMI lead between 4K player and soundbar? I'm keen to know if this is possible. The Samsung rep in store felt that it might be.


Try toggling the anynet+ on and off and also the auto power in and off from your remote on Q90. Long press left and right



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Try toggling the anynet+ on and off and also the auto power in and off from your remote on Q90. Long press left and right



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Per Q90R manual Auto Power Link is toggled by 5s hold on left button. Tried on my soundbar - it was ON (it is ON by default as manual said), turned it OFF then ON still TV on off is switching the bar off but when TV on the soundbar needs to be turned ON manually, again could be Q900R TV issue.
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Also - what TV do you have Ballyerhead?


Samsung 2017 Premium UHD 200htz 65” MU7000 Series


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I am afraid your advice is not really relevant to my post/issue. I did not post anything at Samsung.com and don't have the connectivity issue. My 8K Q900R shows 2 additional icons in the speaker selection: Q90R Soundbar (HDMI) and Q90R Soundbar (Wifi) (BTW for Wifi connectivity TV/bar don't need to be on the same Wifi it is sufficient to be on the same network as my TV is Cat6 wired and soundbar is connected to Wifi through SmartThings app - latest app on S10+ showing 1008 firmware on the soundbar. The only connectivity issue I noticed and reported - when using Q90R (Wifi) the soundbar get confused so switching to Q90R (HDMI) on TV will make TV show that it is playing sound over Q90R HDMI ARC and Soundbar will show TV Arc on the display but no sound will come out. Removing power plug (not just switching off the soundbar) fixed it.

So my issue is: Q900R TV connected by Samsung Q90R HDMI cable to Q90R soundbar (TV shows it is connected via HDMI Arc, Soundbar shows TV Arc is connected) but I cant get Atmos. In Amazon Prime Video app by selecting Jack Ryan video I can then select "Dolby Digital+" in TV Expert Sound settings but still all sound comes from multiple speakers of the bar but sub and rear don't output anything (solid blue light confirms that they are linked to the soundbar). Tried youtube app on TV and DLNA client (playing files from my NAS) - still nothing from sub/rears.

Your idea of playing Atmos file through OneConnect USB is interesting. Please let me know exact clip you downloaded (presumably from youtube, how did you get it youtube downloader?) and I will try that to hear "amazing sound" of Q90R. Thanks!

Re-read both of your posts. "The Dolby site has atmos traitors that will play on USB straight into your one connect box. You will be amazed, pun intended". Are you contradicting yourself? You said anything atmos should go straight to soundbar HDMI 1/2 not Tv eArc because my TV ARC is just arc not eArc then you said download clips from dolby atmos website and play through USB connected to TV OneConnect box? But that means the sound will go through the same HDMI ARC interface you said could not carry Atmos???

Got 2 demos from https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/do...-trailers.html. Copied to USB, plugged to TV OnceConnect and when playing went to Sound/Expert setting to change sound mode to Dolby Digital+ (always default to PCM). YES, I can confirm the soundbar then play content through all speakers including rear and sub (had to power cycle left as there were no sound originally despite solid blue light).

So TV Arc can carry atmos from Q900R TV to Q90R soundbar, just built-in TV apps like youtube, stan, Netflix seems to have issues with atmos and DLNA client seems to be deficient too
Hi actj

I get by your tone that your frustrated, let me explain my comments:

Firstly, your link above from the Dolby site with the Leaf & Amaze (remember the Pun) trailors are coded as MP4. Thats the only reason they play over arc on the Samsung TV / Bar set-up yes they will display as Atmos accross your Q90 Bar display. I suggested this so you could hear Atmos through your Speakers via USB. The Speaker Tone Test found on your Dolby link is also helpful.

My "Atmos will only play through your HDMI ports on Bar" coment - is valid for devices such as Apple TV and UHD Blu-ray players. The Q90 Bar will not support Atmos from dedicated apps on Samsung TV at this stage. However on my Samsung UHD 7000 series the Netflix app does 5.1 pretty well through the rear speakers and Sub! I do not use this app as the app on Apple TV 4K model is for superior and I highly recommend it, as it will transform your whole Netflix experiance to cinema standard (on ATMOS Content especially).

I notice you quoted Amazon Prime show Jack Ryan as a referance for Atmos. My tip is ditch the Prime and get yourself an Apple TV 4K as it has a whole dedicated section on NETFLIX app for Dolby Atmos and 4k viewing. You will however need to secure the Premium 4 screen package for 4k content and I am presuming Atmos fits in this category (I may be wrong). Considering how much a decent title on UHD Blu-ray costs this is a great inventment in your premium TV / Soundbar combo.

I have spoken to Scaddaye online and he believes the connection issue you both have is a Q900 Tv and Q90 combo issue and as you are aware Samsung are on it. My honest impression was that you were still having conection issues with your rears and sub. I'm not going to scan every word of your previous posts to find the exact words. All I can say on that matter is I fixed mine by following the instal instructions via USB. I you no longer have this issue, well that's good news at least!

Cheers

Ballyerhead
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post #52 of 238 Old 07-08-2019, 07:35 AM
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I replaced my Denon AVR & Klipsch speakers with the HW-Q90R on Friday and it was not a smooth process... The goal was to get 4K (my AVR didn't support it), HDR10 (the Shield TV can't do Dolby Vision even though the TV supports it), and shift from 5.1 to 7.1.4 Atmos all in one shot.

The firmware on mine was a bit out of date, I think it was 1006 or something like that, so first step was upgrading to 1008. I just let the update run through the app and haven't had any issues with sub or surround disconnects.

Because my TV doesn't support eARC (and because I don't want a half dozen cords running up to the TV), I was going to plug all my devices into the HDMI 1 & 2 ports on the sound bar (the Shield TV directly into 1 and a 5x1 HDMI switch with everything else into 2). I spent the better part of 6 hours assuming the sound bar was defective because I couldn't get any video through to the TV (a Vizio P65-C1). It turns out that "passthrough" isn't quite as hands-off as implied because with the soundbar in place, none of my devices can sync up to the TV with "Full UHD Color" enabled. As soon as I disabled that feature everything worked, but no HDR as a result (more on this later).

I almost immediately ran into another issue with both HDMI ports in use as the soundbar doesn't have separate commands to select inputs, only a "next input" option which is really irritating to use with a Harmony Remote. I swapped everything over to the switch, now plugged into HDMI 1, and that issue was resolved as my switch (an AmazonBasics 5x1 4K unit, really nice for the price, though it didn't come with a battery for the remote and needs some rubber feet on the bottom to keep it from sliding around) supports specific input commands.

The lack of HDR thing was bugging me since I know it works with a direct connection so, assuming it was a handshake issue, I bought a HDFury Dr HDMI 4K which arrived yesterday. Dropping it inline between the soundbar and TV (with the default settings) allowed me to turn Full UHD Color back on and then change to YUV 420 10-bit Rec 2020, good enough for HDR10. With a direct connection the Shield can do 422 12-bit, so there's still something a bit off, but I'm pretty certain that doesn't matter since I can't do Dolby Vision with the Shield anyway. I have a HDFury Vertex2 on the way so I can get some more details on what's going on with each side and maybe fix it. I'd like to be able to run a computer through at 444 8-bit and right now that doesn't seem possible with just the Dr. HDMI.

As to the sound quality, and this is going to be the shortest review ever, there are times where it's better than my Klipsch setup (anything 5.1 or higher sounds more immersive, especially when in Adaptive Mode) and there are times where it's worse (basically anything 2.0, TV in particular). I need to get the rear speakers raised up because right now they're shooting into the back of my couch. Overall, I'd say it's an improvement.
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Hi actj

I get by your tone that your frustrated, let me explain my comments:

Firstly, your link above from the Dolby site with the Leaf & Amaze (remember the Pun) trailors are coded as MP4. Thats the only reason they play over arc on the Samsung TV / Bar set-up yes they will display as Atmos accross your Q90 Bar display. I suggested this so you could hear Atmos through your Speakers via USB. The Speaker Tone Test found on your Dolby link is also helpful.

My "Atmos will only play through your HDMI ports on Bar" coment - is valid for devices such as Apple TV and UHD Blu-ray players. The Q90 Bar will not support Atmos from dedicated apps on Samsung TV at this stage. However on my Samsung UHD 7000 series the Netflix app does 5.1 pretty well through the rear speakers and Sub! I do not use this app as the app on Apple TV 4K model is for superior and I highly recommend it, as it will transform your whole Netflix experiance to cinema standard (on ATMOS Content especially).

I notice you quoted Amazon Prime show Jack Ryan as a referance for Atmos. My tip is ditch the Prime and get yourself an Apple TV 4K as it has a whole dedicated section on NETFLIX app for Dolby Atmos and 4k viewing. You will however need to secure the Premium 4 screen package for 4k content and I am presuming Atmos fits in this category (I may be wrong). Considering how much a decent title on UHD Blu-ray costs this is a great inventment in your premium TV / Soundbar combo.

I have spoken to Scaddaye online and he believes the connection issue you both have is a Q900 Tv and Q90 combo issue and as you are aware Samsung are on it. My honest impression was that you were still having conection issues with your rears and sub. I'm not going to scan every word of your previous posts to find the exact words. All I can say on that matter is I fixed mine by following the instal instructions via USB. I you no longer have this issue, well that's good news at least!

Cheers

Ballyerhead
From Samsung Australia regarding Q900R/Q90R cooperation:

I have asked the technical team to provide answers to the questions that you had, please see below:

 

1.       The Dolby Atmos trailers will play using the 5.1 or 7.1.4 depending on the encoding of the content. If the televsion is recieveing content that is encoded for the previous then it will pass it to the Soundbar via the ARC Channel.

2.       The Atmos Pass-through option in Advance Audio Settings should automatically become activated when content being played is Dolby Atmos and also Digital Output Format will show as Dolby Digital +. Please ensure all external devices connected to the TV for playback of Atmos has Bit stream unprocessed selected as Audio Output Format

3.       Yes the ARC port is capable of sending the Atmos stream to the Q90. If you are referring to the Q900 released in the USA in 2018 this is correct, however, the Q900 released in Australia in 2019 is different and does support Atmos pass through from the TV to the Soundbar via ARC

4.       Samsung TV Apps at this stage do not support Atmos, Netflix Atmos content can only be accessed on Xbox One S/X at this stage
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post #54 of 238 Old 07-12-2019, 09:03 AM
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A few updates since I last posted....


By 5.30am (yep … stayed up nearly all night working on this sucker) - I had found the reason for my handshake problem. It turns out that my new Panasonic 4K Bluray player (DP-UB420GNK) and my Samsung sound bar / TV do NOT like each other. The Panasonic player (which has to be plugged into the soundbar - so that ATMOS sound can be heard - as the 8K TV cannot pass through Atmos to the soundbar) will work fine … but when you finish watching a 4K UHD disc and try to do anything else (Netflix, Stan, TV, use other stuff that is plugged into the One Connect box) - the act of having used the Panasonic 4K player causes the Soundbar and TV HDMI ARC link to disconnect. So far I have found 3 ways to resolve this - none of which are acceptable long term solutions (as they require physical disconnection of devices ... I have not yet found a way to use menu options to bring back the connection):
HDMI CEC handshake issues can be a problem with Samsung's Atmos soundbars. I would suggest turning CEC off on your Panasonic or buy a Lindy CEC blocking adaptor. I have to use a Lindy on my AppleTV 4K because you can't turn it off. That fixed my issues with the N950 (the 2018 SB). The Lindy's are a cheap possible fix for your issue. https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-HDMI-Ad.../dp/B00DL48KVI
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Anxiously awaiting user experiences with (only) an eARC connection.
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SOLVED by NAUSTIN

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HDMI CEC handshake issues can be a problem with Samsung's Atmos soundbars. I would suggest turning CEC off on your Panasonic or buy a Lindy CEC blocking adaptor. I have to use a Lindy on my AppleTV 4K because you can't turn it off. That fixed my issues with the N950 (the 2018 SB). The Lindy's are a cheap possible fix for your issue. https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-HDMI-Ad.../dp/B00DL48KVI
Naustin - I do believe that you have solved it! What a genius!!
At first I missed the setting in the Panasonic 4K player - as it was labeled "Viera Link" and I had some mistaken recollection of that being a proprietary Panasonic to Panasonic thing ... when it is appears that it is just the Panasonic name for CEC. As soon as I turned that off ... the handshake issues between the sound bar and the TV went away. I haven't had TV-ARC drop out since.

I am really grateful to you Naustin ... and to all others who put forward ideas and opinions to help me get this sorted.

At the end of the day - I shouldn't have to turn off CEC (Viera Link) to allow my soundbar and TV to talk - but I am happy to lose that one small bit of functionality if it lets my TV and soundbar stay connected.
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post #57 of 238 Old 07-14-2019, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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litjak great idea!

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Originally Posted by litkaj View Post

Because my TV doesn't support eARC (and because I don't want a half dozen cords running up to the TV), I was going to plug all my devices into the HDMI 1 & 2 ports on the sound bar (the Shield TV directly into 1 and a 5x1 HDMI switch with everything else into 2). I spent the better part of 6 hours assuming the sound bar was defective because I couldn't get any video through to the TV (a Vizio P65-C1). It turns out that "passthrough" isn't quite as hands-off as implied because with the soundbar in place, none of my devices can sync up to the TV with "Full UHD Color" enabled. As soon as I disabled that feature everything worked, but no HDR as a result (more on this later).

I almost immediately ran into another issue with both HDMI ports in use as the soundbar doesn't have separate commands to select inputs, only a "next input" option which is really irritating to use with a Harmony Remote. I swapped everything over to the switch, now plugged into HDMI 1, and that issue was resolved as my switch (an AmazonBasics 5x1 4K unit, really nice for the price, though it didn't come with a battery for the remote and needs some rubber feet on the bottom to keep it from sliding around) supports specific input commands.
This is awesome input thanks litkaj. I too have been suffering with my Harmony - and the workaround I have settled on was to have everything plugged into the TV (one connect box) EXCEPT the 4K player (as I would otherwise lose ATMOS if I plugged it into the one connect). By only having a single connection to the soundbar - and by telling Harmony NOT to change inputs when jumping from 4K Player (in HDMI 1 on the soundbar) to any other imput - the TV seems to control the switching nicely. I haven't explained it very well I know - but effectively the only time I allow Harmony to change input is when I am using the 4K player (it switches to TV ARC and Soundbar HDMI 1) ... all other times I select "do not set input" when I am setting up the Harmony ... and the TV sets the input for me (no Harmony command required).

The one downside of my current setup though is the terrible lip sync that happens when you have any HD source plugged in to the one connect box. I have an Optus Fetch and a Foxtel IQ4 plugged into the TV one connect box - and any HD channel (except ABC I think) suffers from the lip sync issue. It is not resolvable on the TV or the Fetch or the IQ4 ... as I need negative delay values and all only allow positive changes. The solution is to plug devices directly into the soundbar (definitely no lip sync issues when you do this) - but as you noted - that brings a different issue related to Harmony and the input scrolling on the soundbar (not to mention that there are only two HDMI inputs on the soundbar - so you can't plug three boxes directly into it). Your solution (plugging the Amazon 4k HDMI splitter into HDMI 1 on the soundbar) seems like it will work perfectly for me too (solving the Harmony issues - and hopefully the lip sync issues too) - so thanks so much for taking the time to share that solution with us here.
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post #58 of 238 Old 07-19-2019, 04:31 PM
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Long time lurker - first question I am posting here (I searched for an answer, but couldn't find any).

I have AppleTV connected to Q90R and Samsung NU8000 TV connected via ARC, every time I press menu / home button in Apple TV remote, HDMI input of Soundbar changes to the other (if Apple TV is connected to HDMI1 it changes to HDMI2 and vice versa). No amount of repeated pressing of menu in Apple TV remote brings it back to original and I have change via Source button in Soundbar remote. Anyone seeing similar issue? If I disable CEC in Apple TV this behavior goes away.

Also I have been noticing some kind of Crackling or popping sound (very mild) from rears during play back, how to troubleshoot the issue? The device is still with-in return window, I wanted to make sure I did not receive a lemon.
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post #59 of 238 Old 07-20-2019, 03:40 AM
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I have the Q80R soundbar, essentially the 90 without the rears, connected to a Sony tv by the ARCs. My Apple TV 4K and my Fios dvr are connected to the soundbar. I did it this way so I could access the ATMOS audio from the ATV, and with the Fios dvr connected to the tv there was an audio lag that was very annoying. When I wake the ATV the input does not change on the soundbar, nor does it when I use the menu or any other button on the ATV remote when it’s active. But I don’t have any settings enabled on it to control other devices. It does adjust the volume on the tv which adjusts the soundbar.

I use the SmartThings app to change inputs on the soundbar, that works better than using the soundbar’s remote to change inputs. By using the Remote app on my phone for the ATV and SmartThings for the sb I only need one device to control them but still need a remote to adjust volume. My Fios remote turns the three main devices, sb, tv, and dvr on and off by itself. I had found that having the different devices with that CEC, it’s called Bravia sync on Sonys, enabled, just caused odd issues to occur.

If using the ATV remote changes the inputs in the manner you state that may be an issue with the ATV more than the soundbar. I cannot speak to the issue with the rear speakers but I believe I’ve seen some references to that in a few posts.
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post #60 of 238 Old 07-20-2019, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappasbike View Post
I have the Q80R soundbar, essentially the 90 without the rears, connected to a Sony tv by the ARCs. My Apple TV 4K and my Fios dvr are connected to the soundbar. I did it this way so I could access the ATMOS audio from the ATV, and with the Fios dvr connected to the tv there was an audio lag that was very annoying. When I wake the ATV the input does not change on the soundbar, nor does it when I use the menu or any other button on the ATV remote when it’s active. But I don’t have any settings enabled on it to control other devices. It does adjust the volume on the tv which adjusts the soundbar.

I use the SmartThings app to change inputs on the soundbar, that works better than using the soundbar’s remote to change inputs. By using the Remote app on my phone for the ATV and SmartThings for the sb I only need one device to control them but still need a remote to adjust volume. My Fios remote turns the three main devices, sb, tv, and dvr on and off by itself. I had found that having the different devices with that CEC, it’s called Bravia sync on Sonys, enabled, just caused odd issues to occur.

If using the ATV remote changes the inputs in the manner you state that may be an issue with the ATV more than the soundbar. I cannot speak to the issue with the rear speakers but I believe I’ve seen some references to that in a few posts.
I disconnected LG BluRay player from other HDMI and problem seems to have gone (when both ATV and LG BluRay player was connected, restarting ATV use to fix the problem for a while).

I see that around the same time rear speakers produce crackling sound, the blue light on the back of the speakers start blinking, not sure if that means connection to main Soundbar is not stable or not (they are in line of sight, with no obstacles in between). I am using firmware version HW-Q90RWWB-1008.0.
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