I have also had zero dropouts. Once I finally figured everything out (and this did take quite a while) I have been very happy. Here is an update on the issues I had before and how I resolved.
No audio through ARC. During my fiddling this happened to me once. The TV (10-year-old Samsung plasma) had CEC enabled and yet for some reason decided to stop sending sound via ARC. I unplugged the TV and the HK briefly and this solved the issue.
Getting Dolby and DTS audio rather than PCM. My old plasma is evidently incapable of sending anything through ARC other than 2-channel PCM. The documentation is vague about this. My 10-year-old AVR's HDMI passthru also appears to render everything to PCM, which I did not expect. The bar only seems to accept 2-channel PCM even through HDMI in, which surprised me (has anyone found evidence to the contrary?). Setting my DVD player, DVR, and NAS to output bitstream specifically and plugging them to the HDMI inputs got everything to work. I now see "Dolby Digital" or "DTS" in the bar's display instead of "PCM".
Surround sound from Roku Ultra 4k. Right now I am stuck with 2-channel PCM from my Roku, at least for Netflix and Movies Anywhere. These services stream Dolby Digital+, and the Roku is incapable of extracting the regular Dolby Digital stream. So plugging the Roku into the soundbar yields only 2-channel PCM. Until I get a new TV that understands DD+ and can extract DD from it (and send that via ARC or optical), I am stuck.
Soundbar switching inputs (usually to HDMI ARC) spuriously. CEC is the path to madness, IMHO. I spent sooooo many hours trying to get my Harmony remote to be able to deterministically switch the bar to the correct input. No matter what I did, the bar would decide at various points to switch to some other one, usually HDMI ARC. To solve my issues, I had to disable CEC on every device. Disabling CEC on the TV means no ARC, so I switched to optical. But this did get rid of the bar's annoying tendency to switch to HDMI ARC most (but not all) of the time it switched on. I also had to disable CEC on my Roku, which apparently has a feature that when you hit an arrow key, it sends a CEC signal to switch devices to whatever input it thinks it is connected to. Once I did all of this, the bar now remembers it's previous input 100% of the time. Yay!
Use of presets to choose inputs. To make input selection even more reliable, I used the preset functionality. One issue with the Harmony is that it has to keep track of what input the bar is on in order to switch inputs. It does input switching by sending the "Source" command to the bar which cycles through the inputs. Thus, it has to keep track of what input it thinks the bar is on, and this can get out of sync if you ever set the input manually. However, if you set Preset1 to be source HDMI 1, for example, then you can program the Harmony remote to use Preset1 as the command for HDMI 1. This way, the Harmony no longer has to keep track of inputs.
As long as the new TV I get works well with the soundbar, I will keep it. The sound is wonderful. I sometimes turn the base down 1 notch if it starts overwhelming the dialogue (both for movies and regular TV viewing), but that is the extent that I have had to fiddle with it. I have also noticed that despite the bar being underneath the TV, the sound for dialogue actually seems like it is coming from the TV. Does anybody else notice this? The effect is pretty neat. The bar seems to localize the sound perfectly for people speaking on my 55" TV. So even though there is no height encoding in the audio format, the wizards at HK did add some vertical directionality to the setup.
I too had considered the Sony HT-Z9F for it's complete audio format support, and eARC support. I have not heard it, but I do not see how 3 puny drivers can compete with the 13 on the Enchant 1300.