My review of the DEA Pulsar Screen. WOW! - Page 13 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #361 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 01:01 AM - Thread Starter
 
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100" DNP Supernova with JVC X500R. It had the best fidelity out of any alr screen I've ever owned. It showed a crisp, vibrant image with no signs of the artifacts that are common with most alr screens.
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post #362 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 01:21 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Elite screens Aeon screen where I was the first to report the sharp edge issue which was later addressed by Elite Screens.
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post #363 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 01:45 AM - Thread Starter
 
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100" G3 Black Diamond 1.4 Zero Edge with Sony VW365ES.
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post #364 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 02:20 AM - Thread Starter
 
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100" DNP Blade with Sony HW55ES.
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post #365 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 02:26 AM - Thread Starter
 
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120" G2 Black Diamond with Sony HW40ES.
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post #366 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 02:33 AM - Thread Starter
 
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110" Stewart Firehawk
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post #367 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 02:55 AM - Thread Starter
 
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84" Sony ambient light rejecting screen with LG PF1500.
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post #368 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 07:01 AM
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LumensLover,


Those are in no particular order...either time acquired or preference? (...I've always scratched my head at your determination...and budget...)



Interesting that the DNP SN didn't stand the test of time. That screen has always been my reference to judge image quality by in my DIY ALR screens, and one reason why virtually all others (DIY & Mfg) have failed to measure up.


In that respect, Stephen also took up that reference, and that drive toward being "as good or better than" is why DES is the performer it is today.


All those others need not apply.

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post #369 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
 
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LumensLover,


Those are in no particular order...either time acquired or preference? (...I've always scratched my head at your determination...and budget...)


Interesting that the DNP SN didn't stand the test of time. That screen has always been my reference to judge image quality by in my DIY ALR screens, and one reason why virtually all others (DIY & Mfg) have failed to measure up.


In that respect, Stephen also took up that reference, and that drive toward being "as good or better than" is why DES is the performer it is today.


All those others need not apply.
No particular order. My budget to be honest is unlimited. I save my money wisely and I have small side businesses which bring in additional income.

To keep it simple, I've always had curiosity on trying out different products before I set on any one product. I do that for any thing I'm purchasing when it comes to blenders, tvs,bodybuilding equipment, electronics, etc. The DNP screen was a very good screen. However at the time I had it back in 2013 projector tech was still lagging behind and most high contrast projectors did not have the lumens to properly light up my DNP 08 screen. Also it did not reject light off axis as well as I wanted it to. It was great at rejecting overhead light but everywhere I've lived I've had to use lamps to the left and right of the screen. Overhead lighting bothers my eyes.
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post #370 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 01:27 PM
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LumensLover,

I understand about the 0.8's need for lumen output to really perform up to expectations. At least when enough of those lumen s are doled out, the DNP SN can hardly dissapoint. The 1st Demo of one I ever saw was a 120"er few years back at InfoComm with a 4500 lumen Digtal Projection PJ lighting it up. Once the lumen received with the PJ's output reaches a parity Lux-wise with the Room's lighting , there pretty much ceases to be any loss of ambient light resistance from any direction..... That is the 0.8 talkin' there. Blacks were great and shadow detail being exquisite...and Whites extremely correct...and all that with literally many 1000s of watts pouring from multiple Array overhead HPS Lights. (Convention Center Lighting)

A certain "Gem" of a screen had a fully tented display, the PJ shooting 3500 lumen, with them also using just 84" screens. VuTec....they were using 5500 Lumen DLPs, also on 84" screens, no tenting. None...not a one was remotely in the same league as the 0.8. One was Brighter...yeah, but came with ferocious Hot Spotting (guess who) DNPs image quality in adverse lighting was both exemplary and unassailable.



Of course a qualifier is due. InfoCom is much more about Digital Signage than Consumer HT, so as opposed to the normally used 42" Monitors, 84" seemed a big step up in 2010. I was there comparing "somebody else's" screen samples against all of them (...couldn't have gotten away with that at CEDIA !!! ) and the DNP was the World Beater, and so it also became a benchmark for development. All or Nothin'....there is no "Try"...only "Do".

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post #371 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
 
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110" Silver Ticket silver alr material with LG PF1500.
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135" Slate 1.2 with Epson 1985. Wonderful brightness for daytime scenes however it's lack of contrast during dark scenes was distractingly bad.
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Benq W8000 with 110" Stewart Firehawk.
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post #374 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 08:40 PM
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MississippiMan is correct. Basically the metal bar that he uses. Just zip directly around those. I found it help the screen adjust easier and held it tighter. Not really sure what the goal was with those nylon circles he provided after going that route. I had a hard time keeping those above the 80/20 on some parts of the frame.
Ahh thanks for the reply both FNwoz and MississippiMan, that is actually what I had been doing all along. I was able to get out some of the vertical lines but not all. I've also been dealing with an issue where the carabiner pull system didnt work for me from day 1 - just pulled out the grommets. Stephen so far has been awesome to work with offering tips and tricks at all hours, etc.. However for me at this point I am asking for a return or to swap out to solid surface since the material is great from an ALR / color perspective..

Pictures attached showing the lines I can't seem to get out and the grommet pulling issue. For folks just starting with their's I would HIGHLY recommend having a second person to pull tension / close the tie. Also be super careful if using the carabiner. We had better luck when pulling by my fingertips then having my wife ziptie. You can see below thought that still resulted in the grommet issue.
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post #375 of 453 Old 05-23-2018, 08:51 PM
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Ahh thanks for the reply both FNwoz and MississippiMan, that is actually what I had been doing all along. I was able to get out some of the vertical lines but not all. I've also been dealing with an issue where the carabiner pull system didnt work for me from day 1 - just pulled out the grommets. Stephen so far has been awesome to work with offering tips and tricks at all hours, etc.. However for me at this point I am asking for a return or to swap out to solid surface since the material is great from an ALR / color perspective..

Pictures attached showing the lines I can't seem to get out and the grommet pulling issue. For folks just starting with their's I would HIGHLY recommend having a second person to pull tension / close the tie. Also be super careful if using the carabiner. We had better luck when pulling by my fingertips then having my wife ziptie. You can see below thought that still resulted in the grommet issue.
Oh wow yea that's a lot of lines and creases. My diy material comes tomorrow and can't wait.

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post #376 of 453 Old 05-24-2018, 01:32 AM
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Oh wow yea that's a lot of lines and creases. My diy material comes tomorrow and can't wait.

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Hi, plz make some pictures if there are some issues like have Stattico..


thanks
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post #377 of 453 Old 05-25-2018, 01:35 AM
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Hi, plz make some pictures if there are some issues like have Stattico..


thanks
Got it in the mail yesterday. I have yet to even open it up. I picked up the lumber and will be building my screen later today. I will have plenty of pictures once I get it built. I will also have pictures with my new PX747-4k projector projecting to it. I took some pictures of the projector on a wall today. In the dark though. I will get some pics on the Wall tomorrow with typical ambient light and then same conditions with screen up.
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post #378 of 453 Old 05-25-2018, 05:59 AM
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135" Slate 1.2 with Epson 1985. Wonderful brightness for daytime scenes however it's lack of contrast during dark scenes was distractingly bad.
I've been following this thread with interest.
Hoping to find a replacement for our DaLite HP 2.8 that is getting long in the tooth.
In our set up, it needs to be an electric drop.
LumensLover, with all of your vast experience, I want to ask your opinion. Can any of the models that you have seen compare to the DaLite HP screens? If so, are they available in electric drop?
Thanks in advance
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post #379 of 453 Old 05-25-2018, 08:22 AM
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I've been following this thread with interest.
Hoping to find a replacement for our DaLite HP 2.8 that is getting long in the tooth.
In our set up, it needs to be an electric drop.
LumensLover, with all of your vast experience, I want to ask your opinion. Can any of the models that you have seen compare to the DaLite HP screens? If so, are they available in electric drop?
Thanks in advance

Eric! Long time no talk. How's things in the PNW?


I've been researching this same issue lately too. My HP screen is starting to get old. In-between places right now but will likely need something when I settle down again.



I remember yours is hanging from the rafters and you need that electric drop down. But I don't have that problem... at least yet. So that opens up a lot more options for me.


But the only one I've seen that may work for you and have similar gain as the HP is from Severtson. The have Residential versions of their electric drop down screens and a tab-tensioned too.



http://severtsonscreens.com/series/6...tric-motorized



Also, they recently released an update to their silver screen material, the SeVision 3D GX. It's now called the SeVision 3D GX-WA and is supposed to be much improved.


http://severtsonscreens.com/material/WA/66


A lot of forum members have been successful in getting large samples. I think I've seen them mention 2'x1' or something. Try giving them a call and ask about the new material, how it works compared to older stuff like hot-spotting and artifacts, pricing and sample availability. Let us know what they say!


http://severtsonscreens.com/our-team/
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post #380 of 453 Old 05-25-2018, 08:26 AM
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Eric! Long time no talk. How's things in the PNW?


I've been researching this same issue lately too. My HP screen is starting to get old. In-between places right now but will likely need something when I settle down again.



I remember yours is hanging from the rafters and you need that electric drop down. But I don't have that problem... at least yet. So that opens up a lot more options for me.


But the only one I've seen that may work for you and have similar gain as the HP is from Severtson. The have Residential versions of their electric drop down screens and a tab-tensioned too.



http://severtsonscreens.com/series/6...tric-motorized



Also, they recently released an update to their silver screen material, the SeVision 3D GX. It's now called the SeVision 3D GX-WA and is supposed to be much improved.


http://severtsonscreens.com/material/WA/66


A lot of forum members have been successful in getting large samples. I think I've seen them mention 2'x1' or something. Try giving them a call and ask about the new material, how it works compared to older stuff like hot-spotting and artifacts, pricing and sample availability. Let us know what they say!


http://severtsonscreens.com/our-team/
Hi Bill,
Hope you are well.
It's all good in Duck Country
Thanks for the info.
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post #381 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 06:32 AM
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Ahh thanks for the reply both FNwoz and MississippiMan, that is actually what I had been doing all along. I was able to get out some of the vertical lines but not all. I've also been dealing with an issue where the carabiner pull system didnt work for me from day 1 - just pulled out the grommets. Stephen so far has been awesome to work with offering tips and tricks at all hours, etc.. However for me at this point I am asking for a return or to swap out to solid surface since the material is great from an ALR / color perspective..

Pictures attached showing the lines I can't seem to get out and the grommet pulling issue. For folks just starting with their's I would HIGHLY recommend having a second person to pull tension / close the tie. Also be super careful if using the carabiner. We had better luck when pulling by my fingertips then having my wife ziptie. You can see below thought that still resulted in the grommet issue.
I would love to switch to a solid surface as well but I won’t be able to fit it in my basement if I went that route. I thought about calling Stephen and asking for an upgrade but after measuring, there is no way I can get a 120” screen down my stairs or through my window. Ultimately I am just going to keep working it till I am happy with it. At this point it is about 80% there. Hopefully another round with a hair dryer and adjust the brackets that actually hold the frame will get me to at least 95%. The screen performance is incredible. I would really like to see someone try and take pictures of the same setup with the Dark Abyss (the one I have) and the Pulsar. Just curious to see what the difference in gain actually looks like. My projector is on ECO and its plenty bright.
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I would love to switch to a solid surface as well but I won’t be able to fit it in my basement if I went that route. I thought about calling Stephen and asking for an upgrade but after measuring, there is no way I can get a 120” screen down my stairs or through my window. Ultimately I am just going to keep working it till I am happy with it. At this point it is about 80% there. Hopefully another round with a hair dryer and adjust the brackets that actually hold the frame will get me to at least 95%. The screen performance is incredible. I would really like to see someone try and take pictures of the same setup with the Dark Abyss (the one I have) and the Pulsar. Just curious to see what the difference in gain actually looks like. My projector is on ECO and its plenty bright.
I can snag some pics later but as of now there is only 1 crease in mine and thats from me not pulling it right around the frame. It is in the very bottom right corner so I am not sweating it right now. I built a wood frame and pulled it around it like I did with my last one. I will be honest the Pulsar is definitely brighter. I did get a new projector at the same time which definitely has something to do with it but even on the dimmest mode with my px747 it is incredibly bright even with lots of ambient light. My real issue right now is the projector still trying to dial it in. It has an RGBW wheel and the whites are so insanely bright that they can definitely hot spot on the Pulsar. I am right at 15 feet away as that is as far as I can go. On my really light grey wall the whites on the standard mode were so bright they hurt with this projector.

So far so good. I had picked up the projector after I sold my Abyss as I had intended to go with the Pulsar to open my options as to projectors. There were not many out there that offered high lumens to combat my ambient light. This combination is possibly too bright.
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post #383 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FNwoz View Post
I would really like to see someone try and take pictures of the same setup with the Dark Abyss (the one I have) and the Pulsar. Just curious to see what the difference in gain actually looks like. My projector is on ECO and its plenty bright.

The biggest difference comes from the gain level, making the Pulsar more easily reactive to a lower lumen PJ.


The Abyss can still get to blazin' when adequate lumen s are applied. The difference between an additionally added 0.4 - 0.5 points of gain is really huge, especially when going from a sub 0.8 level to 1.3^

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post #384 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbladr View Post
My real issue right now is the projector still trying to dial it in. It has an RGBW wheel and the whites are so insanely bright that they can definitely hot spot on the Pulsar. I am right at 15 feet away as that is as far as I can go. On my really light grey wall the whites on the standard mode were so bright they hurt with this projector.

So far so good. I had picked up the projector after I sold my Abyss as I had intended to go with the Pulsar to open my options as to projectors. There were not many out there that offered high lumens to combat my ambient light. This combination is possibly too bright.

It is always possible to deal with excessive brightness (ND-Filter) but one cannot conjure up Lumen / Brightness / Foot Lambert s that do not exist.

You will find your balance, I'm certain of that.

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post #385 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by xbladr View Post
I can snag some pics later but as of now there is only 1 crease in mine and thats from me not pulling it right around the frame. It is in the very bottom right corner so I am not sweating it right now. I built a wood frame and pulled it around it like I did with my last one. I will be honest the Pulsar is definitely brighter. I did get a new projector at the same time which definitely has something to do with it but even on the dimmest mode with my px747 it is incredibly bright even with lots of ambient light. My real issue right now is the projector still trying to dial it in. It has an RGBW wheel and the whites are so insanely bright that they can definitely hot spot on the Pulsar. I am right at 15 feet away as that is as far as I can go. On my really light grey wall the whites on the standard mode were so bright they hurt with this projector.

So far so good. I had picked up the projector after I sold my Abyss as I had intended to go with the Pulsar to open my options as to projectors. There were not many out there that offered high lumens to combat my ambient light. This combination is possibly too bright.
Did you always plan on building your own frame or did you build one after trying Stephens first? As far as the gain goes, I have the Epson 2150 for now and am impressed with it. I am waiting to see what Epson comes out with to replace the 5040ub (projector I was going to go with) but my guess is it will be at least as bright as this hopefully brighter. After seeing some white screens in stores, I definitely don’t regret going with a ALR high contrast screen.
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post #386 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 11:13 AM
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Ahh thanks for the reply both FNwoz and MississippiMan, that is actually what I had been doing all along. I was able to get out some of the vertical lines but not all. I've also been dealing with an issue where the carabiner pull system didnt work for me from day 1 - just pulled out the grommets. Stephen so far has been awesome to work with offering tips and tricks at all hours, etc.. However for me at this point I am asking for a return or to swap out to solid surface since the material is great from an ALR / color perspective..

Pictures attached showing the lines I can't seem to get out and the grommet pulling issue. For folks just starting with their's I would HIGHLY recommend having a second person to pull tension / close the tie. Also be super careful if using the carabiner. We had better luck when pulling by my fingertips then having my wife ziptie. You can see below thought that still resulted in the grommet issue.
I would love to switch to a solid surface as well but I won’t be able to fit it in my basement if I went that route. I thought about calling Stephen and asking for an upgrade but after measuring, there is no way I can get a 120” screen down my stairs or through my window. Ultimately I am just going to keep working it till I am happy with it. At this point it is about 80% there. Hopefully another round with a hair dryer and adjust the brackets that actually hold the frame will get me to at least 95%. The screen performance is incredible. I would really like to see someone try and take pictures of the same setup with the Dark Abyss (the one I have) and the Pulsar. Just curious to see what the difference in gain actually looks like. My projector is on ECO and its plenty bright.
Not to sway you one way or another, but I got my 130” diagonal 2.35:1 (120” x 51”) solid surface downstairs and around a relativly tight corner into the basement. There’s is enough flex to the metal that you can bow it a bit, do no damage and negotiate the corners. I’ll post a pic of the stairs and corner up on my thread. Then again maybe you’re doing 16:9 and it just won’t fit like you said before.

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post #387 of 453 Old 05-26-2018, 12:05 PM
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I decided to build it because when I got my first Abyss I was on a tight budget and couldn't afford the other options. The same thing happened this time. It's not easy and is time consuming. You will undoubtedly need 2 people to do it.

A couple pics. One is of my dad holding the frame we built yesterday. Another of BFG in 1080p. It's a dark scene with all 5 windows open in my room and the French doors to the sun room open. It actually looks much better in person my camera is dulling the image more. This is still impressive as this is with my px747 on standard mode nothing else adjusted.

The other two are from last night's celts game. In cinema mode on eco.
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post #388 of 453 Old 05-30-2018, 02:45 PM
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Not to sway you one way or another, but I got my 130” diagonal 2.35:1 (120” x 51”) solid surface downstairs and around a relativly tight corner into the basement. There’s is enough flex to the metal that you can bow it a bit, do no damage and negotiate the corners. I’ll post a pic of the stairs and corner up on my thread. Then again maybe you’re doing 16:9 and it just won’t fit like you said before.
If you could take a picture that would be great. I would like to stay with the 120” but am concerned I can make it past the landing of my basement stairs. I can send it through my window but the corner to corner dimensions are 53” and the vertical dimension of the screen is 59”. If I could go that route, that would be the easiest but we are talking 6” of flex here. Do you think thats possible? Picture of window is below. I am looking at a 16:9 screen as that is what I have from Stephen now.
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post #389 of 453 Old 05-30-2018, 03:12 PM
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What I like best/find most interesting, Lumenslover, is the progression of the mains....



Much like my shorter journey, it takes large speakers to make large sounds is my end conclusion while smaller speakers can sound outstanding, they can never sound like large speakers...…….

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #390 of 453 Old 05-30-2018, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
 
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What I like best/find most interesting, Lumenslover, is the progression of the mains....



Much like my shorter journey, it takes large speakers to make large sounds is my end conclusion while smaller speakers can sound outstanding, they can never sound like large speakers...…….
You are definitely a man after my own heart. Here are a few pics of my other speakers for your enjoyment. Though keep in mind that this is only a few speakers out of over 60 speakers that I've owned over the last 10 years.

Cerwin Vega CLS 215 7 Channel speaker system consisting of seven CLS 215 speakers being used as Mains and surrounds along with large 200 lb center speaker which contained two 10 inch woofers.

So the entire system contain twelve 15 inch woofers, two 10 inch woofers and six 18" subwoofers. The heavens moved with that system.
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Last edited by LumensLover; 05-30-2018 at 05:09 PM.
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